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2010 Dodge Charger R/T
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So .. Just got my Hyper HotInazma Voltage Stabilizer .. to be installed on my 2010 Charger R/T .. does those things works as they should ?
Are they safe to be hooked on battery terminals with out ****ing any thing up ?
Since i heared that we already have a voltage regulator on our vehicles .. so is it safe to hook that thing up ?
Since i have a big sound sys. Hooked up + my lights keeps on dimming while bass comes up and my car hesitat alot on idle rpms .
Should i give it a try with that volt stabilizer & it wouldn't harm anything or what ??
Thanks in advance


Premium Member
1,000 Posts
I’ve never heard of a voltage stabilizer, and a quick search for that device you listed returns very little in the way of information about what it does or how it does it. I did find a YT vid showing one hooked up, but it was in Malaysian, so I couldn’t tell what the owner what saying about it.

If I were forced to guess, I’d say it serves as some sort of capacitor, storing a small amount of energy to provide in the event of an immediate (but very brief) need for more amperage. If that is what it does, installing it on your car may help some with the dimming headlights, but without a farad rating for it, it’s impossible to know how much it might help, if it helps at all.

Depending on how many amps your amplifier require of the charging system, there may be nothing you can do to resolve the headlight issue short of an alternator upgrade and/or a complete power and ground wire replacement.

Of course that assumes the current amplifier(s) power and ground wiring is all sufficiently sized and connected properly. If the power or ground wires are too small or the ground points are dropping voltage, there’s nothing you can do to help the headlight dimming until that is fixed first.

As for the erratic idle, if that is indeed due to an extreme power draw from audio amplifiers, you have a lot of work to do to resolve it. It would take an immense amount of draw to interrupt the ignition system, way more than the stock wiring can handle if extra power capacity is added to fight it.

What alternator is in the car now, the 160A, 180A, 220A, or an aftermarket high amp equivalent?

About how many watts RMS can the amplifiers push at full volume (what’s the worst case scenario for amperage draw)?
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