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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's always a stretch finding info about the AWD cars, but figured I'd see if anyone has any thoughts.

Last summer (about 6k miles ago) I had my original trans and transfer case chew up the coupler between them. I noticed a sort of rumble strip feeling and took things apart to find this. At the time I chalked it up to the incompetent local dealership claiming to have replaced the output shaft bearing (found pieces of it's cage in the pan), but failing to do so. This was right under 70k miles.








Fast forward to this week and I pulled away from a stop at WOT and got a loud and violent (shaking) grind. The car drove normal if you didn't give it much gas, but when I went to pull up my steep driveway it finally let go.

This time the splines were even more stripped than the original trans and tcase, but the coupler on the output shaft of the trans also sheared off.








I've got a 6.4 intake, headers, catback exhaust, and a diablo tune, so not making a ton more power than stock. Also running 255 width michelin as3+ tires. I'm gonna wind up replacing the transfer case and likely the transmission again due to the damaged splines on the output shaft, but now I'm wondering how long it's gonna last.

I greased the splines well on that coupler last time. I don't launch/beat on the car all the time. I just don't understand why I'm having this happen repeatedly, especially 6k miles on a trans and transfer case that only had 4k miles on them when I got it.

Anyone ever see anything similar or have some idea as to something to prevent it (short of don't drive hard)?
 

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Cautiously eyeing this as well for any ideas. Just swapped my 5.7 for a built 392, and I do drive hard. Now while I haven't had any issues, it's items like this that give me cause for concern on the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So this video is the only mention I've been able to find anywhere online about these things wearing out.



My best theory at this point would be along the lines of what he said which is not enough lubrication. So my plan is to use some grease better than the wheel bearing grease I painted on before and pack that coupling with as much grease as I reasonably can.

To get to that point though I've got to wait on some parts. The output shaft of the trans got buggered by that coupler breaking off. So I pulled apart my car's original trans (long story, but I think it's actually ok) to inspect all of the internals. I looked at all of the gearsets and all but one of the clutch packs and made sure they were fine (as they should be since the dealer rebuilt it a few months before I took it out of the car).





So my plan with that is to use the converter and valve body from the current trans in my original trans. Pretty sure that was the problem with it before. I ordered some parts from sonnax and transgo to put in that valve body first though.



I also pulled apart the transfer case to verify I could get it apart without any special tools to replace the input shaft. This case only has about 10k miles on it, so I wanted to keep it if possible. Fortunately the answer here is yes.








Once the valve body parts arrive I can at least get that together and put the trans in the car. Then I have to wait for the transfer case shaft and output shaft coupling for the trans. I ordered the shaft and coupler from a dealer in georgia. Hopefully it arrives in a week or so.

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Wow that's some serious take apart work.
A buddy of mine uses anti seize to lubricate parts like that. It was the only thing that lasted in arctic temps so it became his go-to. I would guess with all the different synthetic stuff you can get now there is probably something that works better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm planning to use crc synthetic moly brake grease. It works well on clutch splines without slinging/melting off, so hopefully it'll work well here too.
 

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Wow that's some serious take apart work.
Agreed, this is first pictures and info I've seen of someone truly digging into these transfer cases, and is super helpful to see parts are available should anything go crazy. I plan on boosting my new engine at some point, and with that much power the T-case is my biggest worry. That, and seeing posts like this of it failing without much probable cause and something to keep an eye on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Chrysler claims the parts are available at least. Granted there were a couple holidays, but it's been a week and a half and my order for those parts still don't show as having been shipped yet. The ever incompetent postal service also lost some of the valve body parts I ordered too for a week, so I still have the trans and transfer case sitting on the bench in the garage waiting for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well it took 2 weeks, but the parts did arrive last weekend. One thing that wasn't suprising was that the output flange came in a mercedes box (211 282 00 82). Ok it's a mercedes trans, fair enough. What is irritating though is that the part number on it (which I couldn't find anywhere beforehand) lists for $88 at mercedes dealers vs the $240 I paid for it (chrysler list is over $300).




Anyway the transfer case went back together the same way it came apart. Note the sprocket for the front output shaft does need pressed both off and back on, can't remember if I mentioned that before. Also be mindful of the lubrication holes on the shaft and the passages for them cast into a couple of the gears, they need to line up.






Had to make a seal installation tool to get the rather large seal lined up straight as well.




The valve body got some new sonnax and transgo parts (tcc damper, lubrication valve, and overlap seals). Transgo SK 722.6-A, Sonnax 68942-23K, & Sonnax 68942-05K.









I also ran into trouble with the trans output shaft bearing. The bearings that the parts catalogs all show for this trans did not fit. They have a 30mm ID where the one that came out was a 32mm ID. I had to order a mercedes part (140 981 01 25 / F A G 559026 (******* forum software) ) for that.







Made a tool to install the output shaft seal straight as well.












Originally I planned to use CRC grease on these splines, but that flange kit did come with some grease. It said it was for the output shaft of the trans before install of the transfer case. A bit vauge if it was meant for the coupler to trans and coupler to t case, but with the amount they gave I figured it couldn't just be for the coupler to trans. The paperwork calls it "Klueber grease", but I think they mean "Klüber" which appears to be a German grease company. The stuff looks like it might be some kind of lithium grease.








Either way I packed the transfer case input with pretty much the whole tube of that stuff. There is a lot of dead space in there due to the cupped shape of the coupler and the extra depth cut into the input shaft of the case (go look at the damaged tcase splines to see where the coupler stops). Hopefully that'll keep things well lubricated for a good long while.







And with that go the trans and transfer case hoisted up and put back in the car.




I did run into issues though. Turns out the rtv I had was older than I realized (2014 date code it turns out) and it didn't want to dry fast at all. I put it on the transfer case on a saturday night and it still hadn't tacked up by Monday. I wound up leaving a space heater under the transfer case (it was 45 during the day and low 30s at night) to help it dry. This was keeping the transfer case between 130 and 150 degrees. It took about 24 hours of this to finally have the rtv tacked up by wednesday afternoon.




After that ordeal the tcase got full of fluid and the trans got filled most of the way, then the car moved down to fill it fully while running.









So far I've only driven the car 3 or 4 miles, but so far it seems good. I do have to adjust the shifter linkage some as reverse is a bit too far forward. The exhaust is also hitting the floor coming down from the cats, so I'm going to have to loosen and adjust them some more. Hopefully though that will end this ordeal for a long while. In a year I'll probably pull the transfer case off and take a look at those splines to see how they're holding up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I wound up pulling the case off sooner (really only been about 500 miles since I put it back together in January) because the usual AWD whine I had in the past came back and at time was getting louder. Long story short, I had an AWD only whine with the original trans and transfer case, I had none (or damn near none) with the junkyard trans and transfer case for a year, and it was back now with the original trans and junkyard transfer case (albeit the case got a new mainshaft). Makes no sense because it only makes the noise in AWD and the transmission knows nothing of this, but oh well.

Anyway, the noise did seem to be coming from the transfer case. I took apart my original transfer case and it was full of the same chinese bearings as were in my junkyard one (wtf borg warner). In that case a couple of the bearings were definitely sloppy and made noise when spun. So I ordered some new bearings to put in my current case. Part numbers in mine were 6014, 6208, 6206, and 6207. Pick your favorite reputable (ie not made from chinesium) bearing manufacturer for some non sealed bearings.




First observation taking the tcase off, the splines are still fine (again, only has been driven 500 miles). Most of the mopar grease was slung out though and there was some orange (rust?) residue on the mating surfaces.









Not a ton to see here, but all the old bearings were pressed or pulled out (that blind/inner bearing was a pain) and replaced with the new ones.





You'll need one of these kits for the support bearing of the front output shaft.



Make sure you have some new seals too. National part numbers 710742 for input and 710661 for outputs (you need 2).


This time I packed the coupling with some good thick crc moly brake grease. This stuff doesn't run all over the place on a stuck brake caliper that gets to nearly 600 degrees (yeah, that happened), it doesn't sling off of clutch splines easily, so hopefully it'll work fine here too (and there's plenty of it in there to have to get slung).







Also worth noting, the special mopar fluid is just dex 3. The 44-44 case in the rams is very similar, just with a low range, and a chrysler driveline engineer over on one of the ram forums confirmed after talking with borg warner that they leave their factory with dex 3. I did notice after putting some stp dex 3 I had on hand in the case before that it quieted down some, as it did with bnd fluid.



So far I've only driven the car once or twice in the past couple days, but it does seem to be nearly silent. Granted that was maybe a total of 15 miles around town. I don't drive very much anymore since I work from home, but I'll keep an ear out for any noise from it.
 

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Great posts and info, thanks.

I've been worried about my xfre case since about 95k kms. as I had a whine from it too. Been thinking of dropping it to at least lube it up and inspect it. I had the dealer look at it just before my warranty expired at 100k but they said they couldn't find anything of course :/ I asked them to note it in case it got much worse, but I've not been driving either due to lockdowns here and no work, so just hanging around til I get called back :/

I'm in the middle of changing ALL the fluids front to rear. Only ones I still need are some power steering and xfer case fluid...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My experience has been that the dealers don't do anything besides change parts anymore. They have no clue about the awd systems wither. Hell the one service manager argued with me that my car had a 6 speed automatic, not a 5 speed.

The factory fluids are junk in my opinion. My front diff fluid was black and way runnier than gear oil should be after only a few thousand miles. The mopar transfer case fluid seems to darken very quickly too.
 
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