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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
06 RT

it started with stalling at lights, on the hwy, just about anywhere. Stayed at the dealer for two weeks they said it was a Jet chip (got rid of it), that didnt help. Then they said it was the PCM, replaced that (still stalls)

1. Since then instead of stalling like it use to (just completely shutting off) it nows sputters, RPMs go crazy, then it dies.

2. I had the valve cover gaskets replaced but now in the mornings when i start it its alot of smoke (smells like oil) then it sputters and dies

3. Once I start it again and rev it real good it stays on and drives fine with no smoke

4. tried jumping the ASD relay to see if that was the problem but that cause more problems (CEL and o2 sensor codes)

I dont know what to do now because I cant figure out why the sputtering and stalling then at other times it drives fine. Its not the gas the tank isn't full. I think im never going to buy a dodge again
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks again for the info. Although my car starts fine, no hard starts, (it just doesnt stay on) I went and bought a crankshaft sensor today. I spent alot of time trying to locate it on my car and couldn't. the pics i saw in this forum really did not help and I couldnt find a good diagram. ill try again tmw. I did locate the camshaft sensor which is fairly easy to get to.

can you tell me where exactly is the crankshaft sensor located. can u post a pic? Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thx yall i think its fixed. i replaced the crankshaft position sensor. so far no sputtering or stalling
 

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Yay! :clap:

I'm glad it seems to be fixed! :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Finally fixed the stalling and sputtering

thanks to 1CleanRt, Ddaddy and all those who gave advice. After changing PCM etc and no fix I finally removed the starter and replaced the crankshaft position sensor.

I started it and drove it for awhile, no sputtering or stalling.

for those who are experiencing stalling and sputtering here are the instructions to swap out the crankshaft position sensor (note: not the camshaft position sensor)

1. disconnect neg battery cable
2. lift passenger side of the vehicle (use an extra jack stand to ensure stability, you do not have to remove the wheel)
3. remove lower plastic engine cover
4. get under car and locate starter (passenger side near tranny)
5. remove 3 15mm boths and slide starter forward (no need to disconnect just slide it out of the way)
6. locate crankshaft position sensor and remove one bolt
7. remove crankshaft position sensor and replace
8. reinstall starter and reconnect neg battery cable
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yay! :clap:

I'm glad it seems to be fixed! :beerchug:
so far so good. ill know for sure in the days to come but it did not cut off at all and it normally does it intermittently esp when I first start it
 

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Thank you for the tip. I was just about to change the PCM but hopefully this works and I did buy the camshaft position sensor first. Hopefully this saves me from near death from the car stalling.
 

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Awesome thx! Short and sweet!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you for the tip. I was just about to change the PCM but hopefully this works and I did buy the camshaft position sensor first. Hopefully this saves me from near death from the car stalling.
what year is your car and describe the symptoms. I still have to change my o2 sensors I blew them when I took some ill-advised advice and jumped the ASD relay trying to stop the stalling. I also noticed maybe an even bigger problem


the coolant level is good but its has turned orange and seems to have oil mixed in. There is no milky oil but I did notice oil and water mix coming out the dual exhaust and smoke on start up……maybe headgasket IDK im going to test it and see
 

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what year is your car and describe the symptoms. I still have to change my o2 sensors I blew them when I took some ill-advised advice and jumped the ASD relay trying to stop the stalling. I also noticed maybe an even bigger problem


the coolant level is good but its has turned orange and seems to have oil mixed in. There is no milky oil but I did notice oil and water mix coming out the dual exhaust and smoke on start up……maybe headgasket IDK im going to test it and see
I have a 2006 2.7l the car just stalls if I don't let it heat up for at least 20 min. Usually happens more in the cold. If I don't let it heat up. It will stall when I come to a light or when I'm driving down the high way and start slowing down. That's usually when I know to start pulling over and get out of traffic. Sometimes I'm sitting at a light it will start to spudded so I put it in neutral and rev it for a bit but usually turns off any way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have a 2006 2.7l the car just stalls if I don't let it heat up for at least 20 min. Usually happens more in the cold. If I don't let it heat up. It will stall when I come to a light or when I'm driving down the high way and start slowing down. That's usually when I know to start pulling over and get out of traffic. Sometimes I'm sitting at a light it will start to spudded so I put it in neutral and rev it for a bit but usually turns off any way.
sounds like the same problem i had. I did change the pcm but it still stalled. the crankshaft sensor helped though it still idles rough so I think i am going to change the camshaft sensor, 02 sensors (getting a code) and EGR. When I was going thru my diagnostic I ruled out the fuel pump etc. This seem to be an ongoing problem with these cars and the techs cant seem to find the root of the problem. I also have a 3.5 and it NEVER did this.
 

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what year is your car and describe the symptoms. I still have to change my o2 sensors I blew them when I took some ill-advised advice and jumped the ASD relay trying to stop the stalling. I also noticed maybe an even bigger problem


the coolant level is good but its has turned orange and seems to have oil mixed in. There is no milky oil but I did notice oil and water mix coming out the dual exhaust and smoke on start up……maybe headgasket IDK im going to test it and see
Your coolant is orange, that's good that it is still orange. What you are seeing in the tail pipe is most likely water from condensation and carbon from your exhaust. What color is the smoke? What is the temperature in the morning when you start the car? Is the oil milky
 

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thanks to 1CleanRt, Ddaddy and all those who gave advice. After changing PCM etc and no fix I finally removed the starter and replaced the crankshaft position sensor.

I started it and drove it for awhile, no sputtering or stalling.

for those who are experiencing stalling and sputtering here are the instructions to swap out the crankshaft position sensor (note: not the camshaft position sensor)

1. disconnect neg battery cable
2. lift passenger side of the vehicle (use an extra jack stand to ensure stability, you do not have to remove the wheel)
3. remove lower plastic engine cover
4. get under car and locate starter (passenger side near tranny)
5. remove 3 15mm boths and slide starter forward (no need to disconnect just slide it out of the way)
6. locate crankshaft position sensor and remove one bolt
7. remove crankshaft position sensor and replace
8. reinstall starter and reconnect neg battery cable
Congrats, you fixed your stalling problem. However...

what year is your car and describe the symptoms. I still have to change my o2 sensors I blew them when I took some ill-advised advice and jumped the ASD relay trying to stop the stalling. I also noticed maybe an even bigger problem


the coolant level is good but its has turned orange and seems to have oil mixed in. There is no milky oil but I did notice oil and water mix coming out the dual exhaust and smoke on start up……maybe headgasket IDK im going to test it and see
Judging by your original description, the dealer replaced your PCM for the stalling problem, but it did not fix it. You then did the ASD jumper hack, and all 4 O2 heater codes popped up. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you need another new PCM, not all 4 O2 Sensors. The ASD hack keeps the ASD circuits powered all the time, which if they are still on when the key is turned off, fries the O2 heater sense circuit internal to the PCM. These sense circuits monitor the O2 sensor heater voltages to make sure they are working correctly. That's why all 4 codes have set. Here is the STAR Online case about it:

Case Number: K32232134
Vehicle Issue: MIL for Active P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057 (ALL) O2 Sensor Heater Circuits Low;MIL on for all the O2 sensor heater circuits low: P0031 O2 Heater circuit low 1/1 P0037 O2 Heater circuit low 1/2 P0051 O2 Heater circuit low 2/1 P0057 O2 Heater circuit low 2/2 These codes are generaly set when the key is cycled to the ON Position. Note: May also have P0685 ASD Relay Control Circuit code stored or active.
System or Component: DTC / Error Message;Ignition Turned On;Yes - Continuously;Oxygen Sensor (O2)
Recommendation: Recommend a visual inspection of the engine wiring harness be performed. Check for any aftermarket equipment installations. Check for blown fuses or damaged fuses. Visually inspect the O2 connectors (all) for any water intrusion, push outs, spread, or shorted pins. Follow the Diagnostics Procedure in TechCONNECT. These DTCs can be set due to a problem with the ASD output circuit having voltage when the ignition key is in the OFF Position. If there is voltage on the ASD output circuit ignition OFF Position this can damage the O2 Sensor heater monitoring resistor internally within the PCM circuit board. NOTE: If the PCM is replaced per the diagnostics and there is voltage on the ASD Output circuit with ignition key OFF the NEW PCM will be damaged. Result in replacement again. Make sure the ASD output circuit is checked for any voltage with ignition key OFF and correct shorts to voltage before PCM replacement. Note: Never jump 12 volts to the ASD output circuit(s) with the ignition key in the OFF Position. If all the above have been checked then PCM replacement is needed. See the service procedure for PCM replacement.

Modification Date: 01/28/08 12:36 PM
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Your coolant is orange, that's good that it is still orange. What you are seeing in the tail pipe is most likely water from condensation and carbon from your exhaust. What color is the smoke? What is the temperature in the morning when you start the car? Is the oil milky
Thanks so much for your input PlumCrazy. The temp in the morning is around 20 degrees. The car starts up fine sometimes and other times it idles really rough. White condenstion comes out (not smoke) and sometimes water and what looks like oil. The oil is not milky at all and it never overheats. I did a block test a few minutes ago to test and see if a gasket is blown. The solution never turned yellow so it passed that test. to make sure that the test was operational I put the tube in the exhust to see if I would get a chemical reaction, I did, it turned yellow.

So now Im still trying to figure out the extremely rough idle
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Congrats, you fixed your stalling problem. However...



Judging by your original description, the dealer replaced your PCM for the stalling problem, but it did not fix it. You then did the ASD jumper hack, and all 4 O2 heater codes popped up. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you need another new PCM, not all 4 O2 Sensors. The ASD hack keeps the ASD circuits powered all the time, which if they are still on when the key is turned off, fries the O2 heater sense circuit internal to the PCM. These sense circuits monitor the O2 sensor heater voltages to make sure they are working correctly. That's why all 4 codes have set. Here is the STAR Online case about it:

Case Number: K32232134
Vehicle Issue: MIL for Active P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057 (ALL) O2 Sensor Heater Circuits Low;MIL on for all the O2 sensor heater circuits low: P0031 O2 Heater circuit low 1/1 P0037 O2 Heater circuit low 1/2 P0051 O2 Heater circuit low 2/1 P0057 O2 Heater circuit low 2/2 These codes are generaly set when the key is cycled to the ON Position. Note: May also have P0685 ASD Relay Control Circuit code stored or active.
System or Component: DTC / Error Message;Ignition Turned On;Yes - Continuously;Oxygen Sensor (O2)
Recommendation: Recommend a visual inspection of the engine wiring harness be performed. Check for any aftermarket equipment installations. Check for blown fuses or damaged fuses. Visually inspect the O2 connectors (all) for any water intrusion, push outs, spread, or shorted pins. Follow the Diagnostics Procedure in TechCONNECT. These DTCs can be set due to a problem with the ASD output circuit having voltage when the ignition key is in the OFF Position. If there is voltage on the ASD output circuit ignition OFF Position this can damage the O2 Sensor heater monitoring resistor internally within the PCM circuit board. NOTE: If the PCM is replaced per the diagnostics and there is voltage on the ASD Output circuit with ignition key OFF the NEW PCM will be damaged. Result in replacement again. Make sure the ASD output circuit is checked for any voltage with ignition key OFF and correct shorts to voltage before PCM replacement. Note: Never jump 12 volts to the ASD output circuit(s) with the ignition key in the OFF Position. If all the above have been checked then PCM replacement is needed. See the service procedure for PCM replacement.

Modification Date: 01/28/08 12:36 PM

Thanks for the input Tbird. I actually did the ASD jump before I replaced the PCM. I did it when the old PCM was still in the car. After the ASD jump the sensors failed (all 4), so i removed the jumper and put the asd relay back in and did a circuit test to make sure no current during off position. then a couple days later I changed the PCM. I still have to change the sensors but the new PCM is good.
 

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So your idle is smooth now? The rough idle never came back after you replaced crankshaft sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
So your idle is smooth now? The rough idle never came back after you replaced crankshaft sensor?
I been through hell and high water with this car. The crankshaft sensor didn't help. Turned out that after doing that ASD jump it somehow fried the engine harness so the 02 sensors were not heating up. was still getting code 31…..so on. Everything that I was told didnt help. I had the ASD checked and they said it was working properly. I replaced the old pcm with a new pcm twice, new egr, new cranshaft position sensor, new 02 sensors….etc. If I unhook the o2 sensors the car doesnt stall or stumble. Now I have to replace the engine harness. Not sure how much that will cost. I'm banging myself over the head for doing that ASD jump!
 
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