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Hello,

This is my first post to the forum. I bought The Mopar Antifreeze Coolant 68048953AB to add to the coolant reservoir bottle. Do I need to mix with distilled water or just pour the contents of the antifreeze to the reservoir? Thanks in advance.
 

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Look at the back of the bottle, if I remember right step 3 will say clearly to mix it to achieve desired ratio

So yes, you need to mix it with distilled water
 

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Hello,

This is my first post to the forum. I bought The Mopar Antifreeze Coolant 68048953AB to add to the coolant reservoir bottle. Do I need to mix with distilled water or just pour the contents of the antifreeze to the reservoir? Thanks in advance.
Remember that the Mopar Coolants have Sodium Silicates, Sodiium Benzoate, and Sodium Tetraborate and Sulfates in it. Check the label and you will see what I am saying. The sodium and sulfates cook out and leave sodium deposits in your cooling system and radiator.....including your heater core. QuantumBlue HP Gold is much better! However, your question about distilled is correct. Use distilled water if the Mopar coolant is concentrate. If it is premixed, then just pour it in.

It would be better to change over to QuantumBlue HP Gold without sodium silicates, Sodium Benzoate and Sodium Tetraborate.

Here is something I posted earlier this year:

Many people that have purchased our different materials have been asking recently about coolants.

It appears that there is a large amount of misunderstanding in regards to coolant/anti-freeze.

Since this is a very important system that many do not really understand, I will attempt to clarify the differences and why our QuantumBlue HP Gold is so much better.

Many people have anxiety about the different colors of orange, green, and purple coolants.

Many people think that green is the normal coolant and appropriate for all cars. However, the green coolant is not recommended for our LX, LC, LD, and WK cooling systems.

It is true that as much as 40% of the engine problems that occur are either directly or indirectly resultant from improper, used, or wornout coolants. Neglecting this system tends to be common practice. Afterall, if there is fluid in there, it is ok right? WRONG.

There are 3 types of coolants available today:

First is the traditional I.A.T or Inorganic Additive Technology. This is considered the "conventional coolant" It contains inorganic corrosion inhibitors.....Sodium Tetraborate, Sodium benzoate, and Sodium Silicates and Phosphates.

This is how traditional coolants function. The rusting/corrosion potential for metals is the result of several competing factors. The two that are most concerning is the electrode potential, which is a measure of the tendency of a metal to oxidize (the atoms/ions of the metal combine chemically with oxygen to form a participate or create a solid like we have seen in the first gen 6.1 liter) and the protective strength and stability of the surface films. The most corrosion prone metals in an engine are the aluminum pieces and solder used in the system.

Second is called O.A.T or Organic Additive Technology. This technology ends up with an additive package that is organic sodium as opposed to inorganic sodium contents like the I.A.T coolants. The organic additives tend to last longer as they react slower. O.A.T coolants can last twice as long as the standard I.A.T which have an effective life of 30,000 miles.

Cast iron and steel both have relatively low corrosion rates in automobile engines. The simple but essential task of reducing ferrous metal corrosion is accomplished by adding inhibitors to the coolant formulation. Additionally, the corrosion products of ferrous metals are readily dissolved in the coolant and moderately stable in common coolant solutions. Ferrous metals corrosion is not a major problem in the engine our cars.

However, copper, and brass, (an alloy of copper and zinc), have higher corrosion rates then iron and steel. The old cars years ago used soldered copper radiators, and standard I.A.T and O.A.T silicate coolants protected these. The only major alternative to a brass and copper radiator is an aluminum and plastic radiator. Like ferrous metals the corrosion of brass and copper can be easily controlled through the use of sodium corrosion inhibitors which both traditional coolants have relied on for years.

Third type (which is recommended for our cars) is the H.O.A.T or Hybrid Organic Additive Technology. This type of coolant is designed more for European type vehicles and upper end manufacturers.

The Mopar OEM coolants factory installed in our cars are this type. They are designed for extended life in excess of 60,000 miles and up to 100,000 miles and is red in color. The Mopar Coolant has Sodium Silicates, Sodium Tetraborate, and Sodium Benzoate as well as Sulfates. We think this is not the best way to go!

The negative or downside to this coolant is that it contains the same I.A.T and O.A.T additives that tend to react to heat and "plate out" onto surfaces and eventually buildup in the coolant passages and lower water jacket as does the other two types of manufacture. This is also known as scale. This is accelerated by the sulfates (Sio4) that under heat turn to silicone dioxide (Sio2).

The reason for the H.O.A.T spec is that corrosion of aluminum can be quite a different problem because of its electrode potential. Aluminum is the most corrosion prone metal in an engine (radiator and heads). Only magnesium sodium and potassium have a greater oxidation potential (these metals will burn/oxidize violently) The reason our precious heads and radiators do not turn into lumps of white powder is that aluminum oxides tend to form stable surface films on the cooling/engine waterways.

However aluminum is particularly sensitive to a process, called erosion-corrosion where a rapidly flowing fluid can remove the protective oxide layer. Erosion can be controlled by limiting the surface flow rate of coolant to 3 m/s or less. This is easily achieved everywhere except at the water pump.

The most vulnerable aluminum component in many engines is the water pump. Water pumps and their housings are susceptible to corrosion caused by erosion-corrosion and cavitation. Cavitation causes the formation and subsequent collapsing of high pressure vapor cavities, which exert high mechanical forces on metal surfaces. Erosion corrosion is the process whereby a flowing fluid surface destroys the protective film giving corrosion free play. The results of both reactions are very similar which produces severe localized damage.

The rate of cavitation is affected by a number of factors. Increasing the fluid density or fluid boiling point tends to increase cavitation While increasing viscosity, compressibility or dissolved gases tends to reduce cavitation.

These properties are effected by coolant additives and the effect on cavitation is one of the characteristics of our proprietary coolant package in the QuantumBlue HP Gold Coolant.

There are many things to understand about a cooling system and I have addressed only a few here. Using our proprietary way of making coolants, we exceed I.A.T, O.A.T, and H.O.A.T but do it without nitrates, sulfates (Sio4 which turns under heat to Sio2 or silicon dioxide.... an insoluable sand as I said earlier. It also contains no nitrates, phosphates, a non 2EH formula.

We make our product from Ultra pure Ethylene Glycol and add our own designed inhibitors without particulates, insoluables and a formula that is stable for 5 years or 150,000 miles.

QuantumBlue HP Gold Coolant exceeds each of the following specifications:

ANFOR 15-601
ASTM D-3306
ASTM D-4340
BS 6580 (British Standard)
Chrysler MS7170
Chrysler MS9769
Ford ESE-M97B44-A
Ford WSS-M97B41-A1
Ford WSS-M97B44-D
FVV HEFT R443 (Germany)
Glysantin G 48
GM 1825M
GM 6277M (DEX-COOL Replacement)
JASO M325 (Japan)
JIS K 2234 (Japan)
Mercedes Benz DBL 7700
SAE J1034
VAG specification TL 774-C

This is something we have discussed before, but with so many new people and the desire for more performance, remember that 70% of your cooling occurs from your coolant, 27% of your cooling comes from your engine oil, and 3% comes from radiant heat evaporation.

In closing, nothing known to man will evaporate heat FASTER than water. It is important to then treat that water with materials that will stop your corrosion, take away the heat, and keep it from freezing. If you use QuantumBlue HP Gold Coolant, your heat dissipation will be much greater without the drop out or coolant gunk that other off the shelf coolants produce.

This month you get 2 gallons of QB HP Gold for $72.98 that you mix with distilled or deionized water at a 50/50 mixture and you will get a -43 deg F freeze and a 286 degrees F boil at 15 PSI system pressure.

Performance includes a performance coolant........... and QuantumBlue is the best!;)
Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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My Charger is happy with BND coolant,especially with the crazy temps here in Cali right now.

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