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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
**** UPDATE 01/13/14****

Ran fine for several days. But now its back to the bull****. I've thrown the P0700 several times over the past few days. I've noticed the stalling seems to only occur when the gas tank is about 1/4 filled. And the only code I've seen is the P0700. No U0100.

I replaced the camshaft and crankshaft position sensor. Ill be filling up the gas tank tomorrow and Ill see if this nonsense occurs again.

While replacing the crankshaft position sensor, I did notice evidence of a fluid leak near the rear of the transmission. It was right before the driveshaft and appeared to be coming from the top. Any ideas?

**** UPDATE ****

I haven't changed the crankshaft position sensor yet. I did the camshaft position sensor Wednesday. The car sat Thursday and Friday in the bitter cold. When I went to start it up Saturday afternoon, the battery was toast.

Took it to Advance and the test showed it only had 330 CCA. The battery is rated for just under 800 CCA. Being that it was the stock battery, I opted to replace it.

Since having the new battery installed, I have had no issues. NONE. I've driven the car hard. Ripped thru all the gears quite a bit. No more stalls. No more stumbles.

Could a dying battery really have been causing all this trouble?




Had over 80k trouble-free miles on my Charger. And not even a week after gloating about my good fortune, the **** hit the fan.

The car will stall at a stop or idle. And at highway speeds the rpms drop suddenly and then surge back to normal.

This all started in October when the temps began to drop. Was driving down the highway at about 70mph. RPMs dropped down to 0 for a brief second and then returned to normal. Did this twice. I exited the highway and the car stalled at a light. Started it up. Stalled again. Did this a few times and then the CEL came on. Went to advance and pulled the P0700 and U0100 codes.

This problem has only gotten worse over the past few months as the temps have continued to drop.

Went to the dealership to have them check the trans fluid levels. They claimed they needed about a quart to top it off. Had them do it. Car drove fine for about 50 miles. And then it started the stalling again.

Some weird things I've noticed...

- It will only stall/stumble once the vehicle is around operating temps. Never any trouble when the engine is cold.
- It seems to stall/stumble more after hard acceleration or if I'm manually selecting the gears.
- I checked the connectors on the TCM under the dashboard. They seemed fine. None were loose.
- The computer unit under the hood on the passenger side firewall (ECM??), I checked its connectors too. I even applied dielectric grease and made sure they were properly fastened as I reinstalled the unit.

I've done quite a bit of reading. This **** really couldn't have happened at a worse time. I'll be damned if I'm going to the dealership and throwing money at the car in the hopes of fixing the problem. Especially due to the fact that neither the dealership or AAMCO have a definitive solution. I'm hesitant to go to the dealership because they insist on doing a FLUSH on my transmission with over 100k. I've never had it serviced before. And from what several people have advised, you don't flush a transmission with high mileage.

Here's my plans...

1 - Have the transmission visually inspected for leaks. I've read that this transmission is susceptible to leaks with the O-Ring at the filler neck.
2 - Look into the ASD relay jumper wire solution.
3 - Buy a new/used TCM and install it.

This experience has definitely tried my patience with this car. I'm open to any suggestions or solutions. And of course if I manage to figure out a solution, I'll share it with all of you.
 

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The only advice I can offer is to make sure you have an understanding with the dealer service manager that if whatever they try does not work, you are not paying for the service. You might get very, very lucky and find one of the very, very few competent mechanics at the dealership and he will fix your problem. But more likely is you will get one of the parts replacement monkeys with no troubleshooting skills at all that will shotgun your repair until (and if) something works.
 

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First off idk ur car, 6 cyl, rt or srt?
Second, what is the maintenance history on it if u havent serviced it?
Third, ive noticed my charger rt detests all types of winter blend fuel, always does this random crap during winter, changing o2 sensor and cleaning throttle body, and a spark plug change has made it better, this year no such stuttering, ive also been using Shell here and there tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The only advice I can offer is to make sure you have an understanding with the dealer service manager that if whatever they try does not work, you are not paying for the service. You might get very, very lucky and find one of the very, very few competent mechanics at the dealership and he will fix your problem. But more likely is you will get one of the parts replacement monkeys with no troubleshooting skills at all that will shotgun your repair until (and if) something works.
I'm not some all-knowing entity. But after working at a car dealership, I've learned to be skeptical about what they recommend. And to be quite honest, I don't have an absurd amount of money to throw at them until the problem is resolved. I'll try a few solutions myself. And if left with no other choice, THEN I'll head back to the dealership.

First off idk ur car, 6 cyl, rt or srt?
Second, what is the maintenance history on it if u havent serviced it?
Third, ive noticed my charger rt detests all types of winter blend fuel, always does this random crap during winter, changing o2 sensor and cleaning throttle body, and a spark plug change has made it better, this year no such stuttering, ive also been using Shell here and there tho.
I have an '06 Charger RT. Never had any trouble before with winter blend fuel.

Only maintenance I've done is oil changes, spark plugs, tb cleaning, etc...

I cleaned the tb a few weeks ago. Car still acted up. And as I said, it's only gotten worse as the temps have dropped. :confused:

Now that I remember, I did increase the shift firmness with my Predator. I had the 93 Oct CAI tune installed. And some time in September I finally got around to adjusting the shift firmness. But I don't know if this is a cause for the trouble because I've removed the tune and still have issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
And before I forget!!!

I have noticed a burning smell under the hood after the car stalls. I've got my fingers crossed that it's just a trans leak.
 

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Had over 80k trouble-free miles on my Charger. And not even a week after gloating about my good fortune, the **** hit the fan.

The car will stall at a stop or idle. And at highway speeds the rpms drop suddenly and then surge back to normal.

This all started in October when the temps began to drop. Was driving down the highway at about 70mph. RPMs dropped down to 0 for a brief second and then returned to normal. Did this twice. I exited the highway and the car stalled at a light. Started it up. Stalled again. Did this a few times and then the CEL came on. Went to advance and pulled the P0700 and U0100 codes.

This problem has only gotten worse over the past few months as the temps have continued to drop.

Went to the dealership to have them check the trans fluid levels. They claimed they needed about a quart to top it off. Had them do it. Car drove fine for about 50 miles. And then it started the stalling again.

Some weird things I've noticed...

- It will only stall/stumble once the vehicle is around operating temps. Never any trouble when the engine is cold.
- It seems to stall/stumble more after hard acceleration or if I'm manually selecting the gears.
- I checked the connectors on the TCM under the dashboard. They seemed fine. None were loose.
- The computer unit under the hood on the passenger side firewall (ECM??), I checked its connectors too. I even applied dielectric grease and made sure they were properly fastened as I reinstalled the unit.

I've done quite a bit of reading. This **** really couldn't have happened at a worse time. I'll be damned if I'm going to the dealership and throwing money at the car in the hopes of fixing the problem. Especially due to the fact that neither the dealership or AAMCO have a definitive solution. I'm hesitant to go to the dealership because they insist on doing a FLUSH on my transmission with over 100k. I've never had it serviced before. And from what several people have advised, you don't flush a transmission with high mileage.

Here's my plans...

1 - Have the transmission visually inspected for leaks. I've read that this transmission is susceptible to leaks with the O-Ring at the filler neck.
2 - Look into the ASD relay jumper wire solution.
3 - Buy a new/used TCM and install it.

This experience has definitely tried my patience with this car. I'm open to any suggestions or solutions. And of course if I manage to figure out a solution, I'll share it with all of you.
First off, do not do the ASD Relay jumper harness hack. It is not a permanent fix for the car and you will likely burn out the O2 sensor heater sense circuits in the PCM. $$$ (The internal circuits in the PCM that monitor the O2 Sensor heater operation) Stalling out and stumbling on hard accel, have you tried at least a new Crank Sensor yet? A crank sensor dropping out will cause the conditions you describe. Use only a Mopar Crank Sensor from the dealer. Aftermarket ones have been troublesome. You will have to unbolt the starter to get at the crank sensor on the side of the block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First off, do not do the ASD Relay jumper harness hack. It is not a permanent fix for the car and you will likely burn out the O2 sensor heater sense circuits in the PCM. $$$ (The internal circuits in the PCM that monitor the O2 Sensor heater operation) Stalling out and stumbling on hard accel, have you tried at least a new Crank Sensor yet? A crank sensor dropping out will cause the conditions you describe. Use only a Mopar Crank Sensor from the dealer. Aftermarket ones have been troublesome. You will have to unbolt the starter to get at the crank sensor on the side of the block.
Thanks for the advice. But I think I might have found the issue, I was over 2quarts low on motor oil. :slap: :slap: :slap: :slap: :slap:

I've been getting a ride into work with my parents for several weeks now. And I'm usually spending time with my son on the weekends. So I really have neglected the car. This past Sunday I checked the oil and saw it was extremely low. I added 2 quarts. The car still stalled quite a bit Sunday evening. But I drove nearly 70 miles on the highway Tuesday night with no trouble at all. Did some city driving Wednesday morning with no trouble either.

Would running extremely low on oil cause the car to stall? From what I've read, the transmission has a feature where it will disengage if it senses trouble. Could the low motor oil levels have been causing this? I've got my fingers crossed. I'll also be checking to see if there are trans fluid leaks.

Thanks again for the input guys.
 

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The low motor oil is unrelated. I don't think the issue is with the transmission either. I am guessing the issue is electronic bases on the u1000 and p0700 code.

Are you still running the factory battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
The low motor oil is unrelated. I don't think the issue is with the transmission either. I am guessing the issue is electronic bases on the u1000 and p0700 code.

Are you still running the factory battery?
Yes. Still have the stock battery. Which has me surprised. I'm accustomed to batteries needing replacement after about 3yrs. But this is the battery that came from the factory. Think this could be the issue? I have noticed the lights dimming more when the bass hits and it has been slow to turn over. And like I said, the problems really didn't surface until October when the temps began to drop. I do have a sound system installed. I'll swing by Advance tonight and have them check the battery.
 

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Cool I was thinking you were still on the factory battery, which is at the end of its life. With the error codes you are receiving and the fact that you have a battery that is very old for a battery and that the issues are occurring in cold temps I would bet the battery is helping to create low voltage situations and that's why you are seeing a loss in communication in the modules
 

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First off, do not do the ASD Relay jumper harness hack. It is not a permanent fix for the car and you will likely burn out the O2 sensor heater sense circuits in the PCM. $$$ (The internal circuits in the PCM that monitor the O2 Sensor heater operation) Stalling out and stumbling on hard accel, have you tried at least a new Crank Sensor yet? A crank sensor dropping out will cause the conditions you describe. Use only a Mopar Crank Sensor from the dealer. Aftermarket ones have been troublesome. You will have to unbolt the starter to get at the crank sensor on the side of the block.
The ASD jumper is a STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE when testing this circuit. It is what the dealer does to rule out and/or single out a malfunctioning ASD relay or ASD relay circuit. There is no electrical connection between the ASD relay and the O2 sensors. The only connection between the ASD relay and the PCM is a ground wire. The PCM activates the ASD relay by closing the circuit to the relay coil via this single ground wire. The hot wire is always hot and is connected directly to 12V+ coming from the batter. It doesn't even have a fuse. This relay supplies switched power to the ingition coils and fuel injectors. When this circuit malfunctions the engine stalls because the coils and injectors lose 12V+. Hot wiring this circuit guarantees the ingition coils and injectors never lose power.

Chrysler Engineers will tell you not to do this for SAFETY reasons. Not one single Engineer I've spoken to says any harm will be done to the PCM or O2 sensors by doing this. The sole purpose of this ASD relay is the add another layer of safety that allows the PCM to kill the engine. I argued this by saying "what is safe about killing an engine when I'm doing 70mph down a 6 lane interstate?". They agreed and allowed me to keep my jumper installed and KEEP MY WARRANTY! That's right, I have a 1,000,000 mile 7 year warranty that will expire in 2015. The dealership and Chrysler Engineering are both aware I'm drving this car with the ASD relay jumpered out and they are OK with it.

With that said, my ASD relay has been jumpered out since November 2010. It had approx 25,000 miles on it at that time. It now has 78,000 miles on it. It will still outrun a BRAND NEW SRT8 that supposedly has 50 more HP than I have. I consistantly can hit a 4.50sec 0-60. If I heat the tires up first it will do a 4.3sec. That's with these crapy Toyos. When these Toys wear out I'm putting the Michelins back on. It will hit 0-60 in 4.35sec every time I nail it with Michelins. The car is BONE STOCK except for a CAI.

With numbers like that there can't be much going wrong with my PCM or O2 sensors or anything else for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The ASD jumper is a STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE when testing this circuit. It is what the dealer does to rule out and/or single out a malfunctioning ASD relay or ASD relay circuit. There is no electrical connection between the ASD relay and the O2 sensors. The only connection between the ASD relay and the PCM is a ground wire. The PCM activates the ASD relay by closing the circuit to the relay coil via this single ground wire. The hot wire is always hot and is connected directly to 12V+ coming from the batter. It doesn't even have a fuse. This relay supplies switched power to the ingition coils and fuel injectors. When this circuit malfunctions the engine stalls because the coils and injectors lose 12V+. Hot wiring this circuit guarantees the ingition coils and injectors never lose power.

Chrysler Engineers will tell you not to do this for SAFETY reasons. Not one single Engineer I've spoken to says any harm will be done to the PCM or O2 sensors by doing this. The sole purpose of this ASD relay is the add another layer of safety that allows the PCM to kill the engine. I argued this by saying "what is safe about killing an engine when I'm doing 70mph down a 6 lane interstate?". They agreed and allowed me to keep my jumper installed and KEEP MY WARRANTY! That's right, I have a 1,000,000 mile 7 year warranty that will expire in 2015. The dealership and Chrysler Engineering are both aware I'm drving this car with the ASD relay jumpered out and they are OK with it.

With that said, my ASD relay has been jumpered out since November 2010. It had approx 25,000 miles on it at that time. It now has 78,000 miles on it. It will still outrun a BRAND NEW SRT8 that supposedly has 50 more HP than I have. I consistantly can hit a 4.50sec 0-60. If I heat the tires up first it will do a 4.3sec. That's with these crapy Toyos. When these Toys wear out I'm putting the Michelins back on. It will hit 0-60 in 4.35sec every time I nail it with Michelins. The car is BONE STOCK except for a CAI.

With numbers like that there can't be much going wrong with my PCM or O2 sensors or anything else for that matter.
Hmm...interesting. But please excuse my hesitation at rushing to that method. I appreciate your input. And this is definitely something to consider. However, I haven't had the best of luck when it comes to playing Backyard Mechanic. And this is my only car. I just couldn't afford to have anything serious happen to it.

I'll do some reading about this, and if need be, I might give it a shot. Thanks again.
 

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Cool I was thinking you were still on the factory battery, which is at the end of its life. With the error codes you are receiving and the fact that you have a battery that is very old for a battery and that the issues are occurring in cold temps I would bet the battery is helping to create low voltage situations and that's why you are seeing a loss in communication in the modules
+1 Your battery is way over due, it's supposed to be a 5 year battery, mine went dead last year which still is way over 5 years. i just wanted to see how long it would last, i have a 06 charger rt too with 126,000+ miles. have autozone check your battery. good luck!
 

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The ASD jumper is a STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE when testing this circuit. It is what the dealer does to rule out and/or single out a malfunctioning ASD relay or ASD relay circuit. There is no electrical connection between the ASD relay and the O2 sensors. The only connection between the ASD relay and the PCM is a ground wire. The PCM activates the ASD relay by closing the circuit to the relay coil via this single ground wire. The hot wire is always hot and is connected directly to 12V+ coming from the batter. It doesn't even have a fuse. This relay supplies switched power to the ingition coils and fuel injectors. When this circuit malfunctions the engine stalls because the coils and injectors lose 12V+. Hot wiring this circuit guarantees the ingition coils and injectors never lose power.

Chrysler Engineers will tell you not to do this for SAFETY reasons. Not one single Engineer I've spoken to says any harm will be done to the PCM or O2 sensors by doing this. The sole purpose of this ASD relay is the add another layer of safety that allows the PCM to kill the engine. I argued this by saying "what is safe about killing an engine when I'm doing 70mph down a 6 lane interstate?". They agreed and allowed me to keep my jumper installed and KEEP MY WARRANTY! That's right, I have a 1,000,000 mile 7 year warranty that will expire in 2015. The dealership and Chrysler Engineering are both aware I'm drving this car with the ASD relay jumpered out and they are OK with it.

With that said, my ASD relay has been jumpered out since November 2010. It had approx 25,000 miles on it at that time. It now has 78,000 miles on it. It will still outrun a BRAND NEW SRT8 that supposedly has 50 more HP than I have. I consistantly can hit a 4.50sec 0-60. If I heat the tires up first it will do a 4.3sec. That's with these crapy Toyos. When these Toys wear out I'm putting the Michelins back on. It will hit 0-60 in 4.35sec every time I nail it with Michelins. The car is BONE STOCK except for a CAI.

With numbers like that there can't be much going wrong with my PCM or O2 sensors or anything else for that matter.
i wish i knew what this was!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
* Update *

Took the battery to Advance last night, tested "Good". But a charge is recommended because it only had 530 cca. And this was after starting it up. Letting it idle for about 20mns. And then driving. So Ive got them charging it for me.
 

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The ASD jumper is a STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE when testing this circuit. It is what the dealer does to rule out and/or single out a malfunctioning ASD relay or ASD relay circuit. There is no electrical connection between the ASD relay and the O2 sensors. The only connection between the ASD relay and the PCM is a ground wire. The PCM activates the ASD relay by closing the circuit to the relay coil via this single ground wire. The hot wire is always hot and is connected directly to 12V+ coming from the batter. It doesn't even have a fuse. This relay supplies switched power to the ingition coils and fuel injectors. When this circuit malfunctions the engine stalls because the coils and injectors lose 12V+. Hot wiring this circuit guarantees the ingition coils and injectors never lose power.

Chrysler Engineers will tell you not to do this for SAFETY reasons. Not one single Engineer I've spoken to says any harm will be done to the PCM or O2 sensors by doing this. The sole purpose of this ASD relay is the add another layer of safety that allows the PCM to kill the engine. I argued this by saying "what is safe about killing an engine when I'm doing 70mph down a 6 lane interstate?". They agreed and allowed me to keep my jumper installed and KEEP MY WARRANTY! That's right, I have a 1,000,000 mile 7 year warranty that will expire in 2015. The dealership and Chrysler Engineering are both aware I'm drving this car with the ASD relay jumpered out and they are OK with it.

With that said, my ASD relay has been jumpered out since November 2010. It had approx 25,000 miles on it at that time. It now has 78,000 miles on it. It will still outrun a BRAND NEW SRT8 that supposedly has 50 more HP than I have. I consistantly can hit a 4.50sec 0-60. If I heat the tires up first it will do a 4.3sec. That's with these crapy Toyos. When these Toys wear out I'm putting the Michelins back on. It will hit 0-60 in 4.35sec every time I nail it with Michelins. The car is BONE STOCK except for a CAI.

With numbers like that there can't be much going wrong with my PCM or O2 sensors or anything else for that matter.
:icon_rolleyes: Oh here we go again.... as I tried to explain to you before, this has to do with leaving a circuit powered that's not supposed to be with the ignition off. It relates to a voltage sensing circuit within the PCM that monitors the O2 Sensor heater operation. NOT THE ACTUAL O2 SENSORS. It is a documented issue on STAR Online that covers all 4 O2 sensor heater codes being set. It states the ASD circuit not being shut off when the key is off will lead to the O2 Sensor Heater Sensing circuit IN THE PCM to get burned out and set all 4 codes. Nothing to do with the safety factor.

And putting a jumper in for the ASD relay for testing purposes IS NOT STANDARD PROCEDURE. While it is a shortcut for most relays (Only verifys there is power to terminal 30 of the relay and the component and circuitry it powers is operational on terminal 87), it should not be done in place of the ASD relay. If you look at the diagnostic procedure for the DTC's set for the ASD Relay (P0685 or P0688) it make NO mention of putting a jumper wire in place of the relay.

Why it hasn't burned out your PCM yet on your's, can't say. Don't feel like hypothesizing, I went as far as giving you directions on how to wire a separate relay circuit so you wouldn't start hacking an expensive TIPM. I even pointed out there is a radio capacitor in the ASD circuit of your car that is relatively inexpensive to buy and replace as a shot in the dark. In both cases, you opted not to try either. So as I also stated before, it's YOUR car to do what YOU want. If it keeps you from getting killed on the highway, more power to you.

I'll leave you with this for your examination... I don't remember if I posted it specifically, but it's what I tried to explain here and there. It also makes it hard for me to believe STAR told you to go ahead and do it permanently when this STAR Case pre-dated them telling you to do it. It mentions water intrusion but it is not the cause. It also mentions other possible failures to check for first. We've already had people try your "Chrysler Engineer approved modification" for their stalling woes. All I've seen is them come back saying it didn't cure the problem and now they have 4 active O2 Sensor Heater codes they can't get rid of.

Case Number: K32232134
Vehicle Issue: MIL for Active P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057 (ALL) O2 Sensor Heater Circuits Low;MIL on for all the O2 sensor heater circuits low: P0031 O2 Heater circuit low 1/1 P0037 O2 Heater circuit low 1/2 P0051 O2 Heater circuit low 2/1 P0057 O2 Heater circuit low 2/2 These codes are generaly set when the key is cycled to the ON Position. Note: May also have P0685 ASD Relay Control Circuit code stored or active.
System or Component: DTC / Error Message;Ignition Turned On;Yes - Continuously;Oxygen Sensor (O2)
Recommendation: Recommend a visual inspection of the engine wiring harness be performed. Check for any aftermarket equipment installations. Check for blown fuses or damaged fuses. Visually inspect the O2 connectors (all) for any water intrusion, push outs, spread, or shorted pins. Follow the Diagnostics Procedure in TechCONNECT. These DTCs can be set due to a problem with the ASD output circuit having voltage when the ignition key is in the OFF Position. If there is voltage on the ASD output circuit ignition OFF Position this can damage the O2 Sensor heater monitoring resistor internally within the PCM circuit board. NOTE: If the PCM is replaced per the diagnostics and there is voltage on the ASD Output circuit with ignition key OFF the NEW PCM will be damaged. Result in replacement again. Make sure the ASD output circuit is checked for any voltage with ignition key OFF and correct shorts to voltage before PCM replacement. Note: Never jump 12 volts to the ASD output circuit(s) with the ignition key in the OFF Position. If all the above have been checked then PCM replacement is needed. See the service procedure for PCM replacement.

Modification Date: 01/28/08 12:36 PM
 

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* Update *

Took the battery to Advance last night, tested "Good". But a charge is recommended because it only had 530 cca. And this was after starting it up. Letting it idle for about 20mns. And then driving. So Ive got them charging it for me.
An 06 with the original battery??? Depending on the build date of the car and when the battery was actually produced it is between 7-8 years old. This is really pushing it keeping it. I have seen original batteries in other Chrysler's last 10 years, but not very often. I usually recommend a new battery after 5 years of use, even if it does test good and is still working. Yes the H7/94R battery is pricey, but why risk leaving yourself stranded somewhere?
 

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I vote crank position sensor failure. Always gets worse when hot and doesn't always throw a code. Fits every symptom.


If you replace it and it doesn't fix it, you've moved one step closer to solving the issue by eliminating a highly probable cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
An 06 with the original battery??? Depending on the build date of the car and when the battery was actually produced it is between 7-8 years old. This is really pushing it keeping it. I have seen original batteries in other Chrysler's last 10 years, but not very often. I usually recommend a new battery after 5 years of use, even if it does test good and is still working. Yes the H7/94R battery is pricey, but why risk leaving yourself stranded somewhere?
I know right. I was shocked when I saw it was the original battery. Any explanations as to what makes these batteries last so long? I feel like replacing it with a Chrysler battery rather than a different brand.

After an overnight charge, the battery tested at 675 CCA. Still under the 730 rating, so the tester recommended a new battery. It's definitely on my list of things to do.

I vote crank position sensor failure. Always gets worse when hot and doesn't always throw a code. Fits every symptom.


If you replace it and it doesn't fix it, you've moved one step closer to solving the issue by eliminating a highly probable cause.
I saw your thread. Some good info in there. Did you notice the car stalling/stumbling more often after "spirited" driving? I'll look into replacing both of those sensors soon. Seems like a cheap and quick fix that might need to be done anyway.

*** UPDATE ***

I've had very little trouble so far. It's only stumbled 2 times while driving on the highway. And only stalled once after idling for about 20mns. And this was immediately after installing the battery (it was out of the car for well over 24hrs). When it stalled, I threw a CEL for "Barometric Pressure Low". I cleared it, and haven't had any trouble since.

Here's what I've done:
- Transmission fluid top off (was about 1qrt low)
- Top off the motor oil (was over 2qrts low)
- Battery was low, had recharged
- I try to let the car warm up for 10-15mns EVERY time before I go out

The car does seem to drive just a bit different though. Almost seems to upshift/downshift harder at times. Does the trans have to re-learn or something because I had the battery removed for over 24hours?
 

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An 06 with the original battery??? Depending on the build date of the car and when the battery was actually produced it is between 7-8 years old. This is really pushing it keeping it. I have seen original batteries in other Chrysler's last 10 years, but not very often. I usually recommend a new battery after 5 years of use, even if it does test good and is still working. Yes the H7/94R battery is pricey, but why risk leaving yourself stranded somewhere?
i agree with this comment. i too also have a 06 but drove my car until the battery died, luckly it died at my house.

in the future, weather your battery or your alternator is bad you can connect a jump starter and leave it charging your battery while you drive to the nearest location. probably not a battery but a alternator yes, i've had a alternator fail on me and left the jumpstarter in the trunk with the battery and let it charge while i drove to a store and then home. i either had to pay for a 100 dollar parking ticket, or 160 bucks for a tow truck, but opted to pay for a jumpstarter for 150 and got to keep it after as a bonus.
 
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