[Rommey]

2006 Charger RT with 81K miles.

Starting back last fall, I started getting all the warning lights would come on for 3-4 seconds and then go out. It would happen at different speeds and might not recur for two or three days. Then it started happening everyday, and then multiple times each day. At first the chime would sound 1 time, but there would be no codes, but then I would only get the lights and no chime. Then I noticed all the gauges would go to zero and then return to normal. I also noticed the fan would slow down momentarily, but the headlights and gauge lights didn't seem to be affected. According to the EVIC, the battery voltage was almost always reading 14.0 to 14.2 volts, even when this problem appeared.

I had searched these forums and most said the battery was likely the cause. Since it was the original battery and was 8 years old, I figured that could be a good thing to replace. I did replace it with a battery from Dodge (I figured the original lasted 8 years...). The problem seemed to go away for about a week but then returned. It happens almost everyday, but it might happen once during my drive or 6-7 times during my drive (note, my drive to work is only about 15 minutes/10 miles).

Usually this happens in the morning, so the headlights/foglights, heater, and radio are on. I have noticed it seems to happen as I step on the accelerator or let off the accelerator (think slowing down for a light), so I thought maybe alternator???

Anyways, today a new wrinkle appeared. I couldn't open or lock the doors using either FOB. I thought maybe the FOB battery might be dead, but it measured 3 volts. I unlocked the door using the key and of course the alarm went off. I wasn't able to shut the alarm off with the FOB, so I started up the car and it shut off the alarm. I shut off the car and the FOB now worked to lock and unlock the car.

Any ideas/suggestions?

 

[Ddaddy]

2006 Charger RT with 81K miles.

Starting back last fall, I started getting all the warning lights would come on for 3-4 seconds and then go out. It would happen at different speeds and might not recur for two or three days. Then it started happening everyday, and then multiple times each day. At first the chime would sound 1 time, but there would be no codes, but then I would only get the lights and no chime. Then I noticed all the gauges would go to zero and then return to normal. I also noticed the fan would slow down momentarily, but the headlights and gauge lights didn't seem to be affected. According to the EVIC, the battery voltage was almost always reading 14.0 to 14.2 volts, even when this problem appeared.

I had searched these forums and most said the battery was likely the cause. Since it was the original battery and was 8 years old, I figured that could be a good thing to replace. I did replace it with a battery from Dodge (I figured the original lasted 8 years...). The problem seemed to go away for about a week but then returned. It happens almost everyday, but it might happen once during my drive or 6-7 times during my drive (note, my drive to work is only about 15 minutes/10 miles).

Usually this happens in the morning, so the headlights/foglights, heater, and radio are on. I have noticed it seems to happen as I step on the accelerator or let off the accelerator (think slowing down for a light), so I thought maybe alternator???

Anyways, today a new wrinkle appeared. I couldn't open or lock the doors using either FOB. I thought maybe the FOB battery might be dead, but it measured 3 volts. I unlocked the door using the key and of course the alarm went off. I wasn't able to shut the alarm off with the FOB, so I started up the car and it shut off the alarm. I shut off the car and the FOB now worked to lock and unlock the car.

Any ideas/suggestions?

I have experienced this and traced back to a worn ignition cylinder.

After starting, the cylinder wasn't rebounding fully to the 'run' position and was causing a cross-circuit connection to the 'start' position. This causes all of the lights to come on and the gauges to cycle randomly like you describe. It can also cause the chime occasionally depending on the duration of the cross-circuit. The apparent link to acceleration/deceleration has to do with inertia moving the cylinder around. This is magnified if you have a heavy key ring that has multiple keys on it

You can fix it short-term by gently rotating the key back after starting until you feel resistance leaving it fully in the 'run' position. The long term fix is to replace it.

 

[Rommey]

I have experienced this and traced back to a worn ignition cylinder.

After starting, the cylinder wasn't rebounding fully to the 'run' position and was causing a cross-circuit connection to the 'start' position. This causes all of the lights to come on and the gauges to cycle randomly like you describe. It can also cause the chime occasionally depending on the duration of the cross-circuit. The apparent link to acceleration/deceleration has to do with inertia moving the cylinder around. This is magnified if you have a heavy key ring that has multiple keys on it

You can fix it short-term by gently rotating the key back after starting until you feel resistance leaving it fully in the 'run' position. The long term fix is to replace it.

OK, this problem hasn't recurred since the weather has gotten warmer. I did try to see if I could try to make the issue appear by playing with the ignition switch and it doesn't feel any different than I normally remember. There is some play with the key in the run position, but nothing unreasonable. Also I only have a few keys on my ring (5 keys in addition to car key, plus a FOB for the house alarm), so its nothing unreasonable as far as the number/weight of keys on the ring.

I would think that if it were something mechanical such as a worn key cylinder, that I should be able to replicate it.

 

[Ddaddy]

Try turning the key within the range of movement in the run position while driving and see if it reappears.

Warmer weather=expanded connection points that are less sensitive to minor movement.

 

[Rommey]

Try turning the key within the range of movement in the run position while driving and see if it reappears.

I did this over the past several days and nothing unusual felt or noted.

 

[tgbraley]

Try this:
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192249&page=2

 

[Ddaddy]

As quoted from the STAR case:

"The ignition run circuit (f20) is most likely the source of the issue."

This is why mine was related to the ignition cylinder and tgbraley's was related to the diode array under the PDC while the STAR case was the PDC itself.

In each case, there was a fault in the ignition run circuit that caused the same symptoms.

This gives you sources to trace to find the possible root cause of the issue.

The methodology to trace it is to either replicate the issue by manipulating each possible source or to make the issue go away when it's happening by the same means.