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Discussion Starter #1
It's time to replace the audio system in my 2006 Dodge Charger R/T. I have the OEM non-nav unit, but l did get the Boston Acoustic six speaker setup. I do not have the sub. I'm having issues with the AUX jack on the unit, speakers are starting to distort, and I'd kind of like to add hands-free capabilities anyway.

What i want to remove: The deck and all six speakers.

What I want to add: A deck with hands-free ability; compatible with iphone. Don't really care about DVD or Nav in the deck, but I would like to add DVD headrests for the kid. In addition to replacing all four 6x9s and tweets, I'd also like to put a sub in that hole (i think it's an 8"), but I don't want to add an amp. If the deck has a sub input, that should be enough. I'm also hoping to still be able to use the steering wheel controls. Any advice on a particular deck and speakers?

**I'm not one of those obnoxious guys that thinks bass makes me cool, so please don't suggest anything crazy. Thanks for any advice.
 

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I have the Pioneer P2400 BT and it is a very nice unit, has the Ipod control, can do the AV stuff as well as add a rear camera if you want...

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VDW3LqeGNwc/p_130P2400BT/Pioneer-AVH-P2400BT.html#details-tab

Most two ohm stable speakers are actually 4 ohm coils with a 4 ohm bypass resistor, bringing them to 2 ohms to run in line with the 2 ohm factory amp in the car. You can turn just about any 4 ohm speaker into a 2ohm this way.

The sub options are really up for debate, you need a free air to install in stock location. I would not recommend running a sub without an amp. You would need a really small RMS sub which the bass would be almost non existent when paired with the other amped speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the advice.

Did you keep the factory speakers, or install aftermarket ones? I'm curious if you had to rewire everything. It's been a long time since I've installed a stereo. Since when did we start connecting speakers with RCA cables in cars? My ignorance is also why I wasn't sure about needing an amp. Back when I used to push two 12s (like 10 years ago), I had to use an amp cause the head unit was like 25x2 watts and I wanted to wake all the neighbors. Now stereos are 50x4 MOSFET with sub outputs, and I have no idea what they are capable of. The only reason I want the sub is because #1, I like to fill holes...lol, and #2, just to get the theater effect when watching DVDs on the headrests. I don't want to draw attention anymore, so bass doesn't have to be booming.

Also, any thoughts on the best replacement speakers that will fit without making cutouts. I don't want the speakers to show.
 

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when I installed mine, I didn't have to rewire the whole car because my SXT did not come with a factory amp. I am running Polk audio 3.5" in the dash, the stock Boston Acoustics in the doors, Pioneer 6x9's in the rear deck and a JBL 12" powered enclosure in the trunk. I used a couple of wire harness adapters to make the Pioneer radio plug and play to the stock wire harness. The only extra wire was to the cigarette wire for an ignition hot - chargers don't have this stock.

For your car, you will need the PAC harness to run the factory amp or you can rewire the whole car. you will need to run a converter to switch from RCA's to speakers or you will need to run an amp to plug the RCA's into... Running a sub and amp in the Charger is really easy since the Charger has the battery in the trunk.

Always look at your RMS rating, Pioneers RMS is like 14 watts x 4 at 4 ohms. This is not enough to power many aftermarket speakers other than entry level or factory replacement.

This is the powered enclosure that I have in my Charger currently:

http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_product_details.jsp?cid=441436

My entire sound system upgrade in my car was around $750.00 - I got the pioneer P2400BT, the Polk Audio 3.5's, the Pioneer rear 6x9's, the JBL powered enclosure sub, and a true 8 gauge amp wiring kit. Also, got the backup camera and wiring in that pricing as a nice bonus!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Been awhile since I posted this, but I hate to leave open threads so here is my update. I went with a Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS head unit, and kept the Boston Acoustics factory speakers/ amp for now. To ensure steering wheel controls continued to work, I bought the RP4-CH11 harness from Pacific Accessory Corp. The hardest part was matching the pac harness to pioneer harness, but here is the final list (working flawlessly).

Interface Connector:
Red/White P.B. Output (connect to Lt Green Parking Brake wire)
Purple/ White VSS Output (not used)
Blue/ White Amp Turn On Input (connect to blue/ white remote speaker wire)
Red Acc. Output 1 amp (connect to Red 12v ignition wire)
Orange/ white Illumination Output (connect to orange/ white lighting switch wire)
Green Reverse Output (connect to violet/ white reverse wire)

Vehicle Connector:
Yellow Battery 12v (there are two on the pac harness) (connect both to yellow 12v wire)
Black Ground (there are two on the pac harness) (connect both to black ground wire)
Blue Antenna On Input (not used)
White Front Left + (not used with factory amp, connect to white wire if no factory amp)
White/ Black Front Left - (not used with factory amp, connect to white/ black wire if no factory amp)
Grey Front Right + (not used with factory amp, connect to grey wire if no factory amp)
Grey/ Black Front Right - (not used with factory amp, connect to grey/ black wire if no factory amp)
Green Rear Left + (connect to white wire is using factory amp, connect Green wire if no factory amp)
Green/ black Rear Left - (connect white/ black if using factory amp, connect green/black if not using factory amp)
Purple Rear R + (connect grey wire if using factory amp, connect purple wire if not using factory amp)
Purple/ black Rear R - (connect grey/ black wire if using factory amp, connect purple/ black wire if no factory amp)
*the factory amp only accepts two channels of audio input (left and right). Connect the front outputs of aftermarket radio to the rear inputs of the vehicle connector. This allows navigation prompt and Bluetooth calls to be heard. Rear speaker outputs of aftermarket radio are not used. Fading is lost as it is controlled by factory radio computer.

SWC connector (steering wheel controls)
3.5 mm Jack (connect to SWC jack in back of Pioneer)
*set to 7 for Pioneer
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would also like to add my experience with the parking brake bypass for the Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS. I researched a lot, and I mean a lot, on bypassing the parking brake on this head unit. The manual states that you must start the car, engage, disengage, and reengage the parking brake to view video. For this reason, many a fool have written that traditional relay and toggle methods of bypassing the brake do not work for any 2013 pioneer radios. So I searched for an alternate method. Took out the old multimeter and started wiring all sorts of possible ways to trick the unit. After many failed attempts, I simply went back to trying the old toggle trick. Two prong toggle, one prong connected to the pioneer parking brake wire (light green), and the other prong connected to a negative charge. For the negative charge, I simply screwed a wire to the head unit and connected the other end to the toggle. Now I can flip the toggle switch two times and video is on with or without parking brake action.
 
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