[Ghost_Rider]

I've been looking at doing this for a while and I finally found the parts to do it. You probably all know that the Kicker Premium stereo cuts frequencies to the door and rear deck speakers. So the only treble you get are from your dash board tweeters. This sounds OK, but I found that adding a LOC and another amp totally fills the car with sound ! The 2nd amp works in conjunction with the stock (or MOPAR upgrade). The stock amp still controls the NAV audio, U-Connect, tweeters and door speakers. The new amp powers the rears. Tweak the gain on the amp to match the sound levels of the stock amp and you're done.

The key to all this is the C2A-CHY line converter. It works specifically with the Kicker system. You've got to rip your NAV / Deck out of the dash to install it, but it fits like a charm. I ran the RCA cables back into the trunk where I installed the Alpine amp. The best part about this mod is that you don't lose the audio controls of your steering wheel and you can still take advantage of the surround mode if you've got the upgraded MOPAR amp.

I replaced my rear 6x9's with full range Infinity Reference Speakers. The Alpine lights them up beautifully ! Set the cross over to what suits you and you've got a new system that'll really rock. $75 for the LOC, $125 for the amp. Best $200 I've spent on the SRT to date! :banana:

 

[RAK_Charger_R/T]

So you just had to run new speaker wire to the 6x9's in the rear deck from the amp?

Congrats on the install! All of our Chargers could benefit from upgrading the factory systems!

 

[Ghost_Rider]

So you just had to run new speaker wire to the 6x9's in the rear deck from the amp?

Congrats on the install! All of our Chargers could benefit from upgrading the factory systems!

Yup. That was pretty much it. You need to run the RCA cables from the LOC under the dash back into the trunk.. But from there, it's piece of cake. One thing I found though, is when you first turn on the engine, you get a couple of pop pop pop sounds through the speakers. May not bother some people, but it did me, so I added a toggle switch under the dash that connects back to the "remote" lead on the amp. Basically allows me to turn the AMP on AFTER, the car's started which gets rid of the poping.