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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got into a wreck today, dude was at fault...anyway this is my first accident ever..being in one that is...as a cop I would come on scene assess the situation and give out the appropriate paperwork...but as a person within the accident... I don't know what to do...I called my insurance, notified them of the damages, they said based on the way I described the accident, I was not at fault...But my question is whats next...the rep said something about an adjuster calling me, after they assess the damages....then I guess I would pick a repair shop to fix it up...and dish out my deductible....could I get anything out of this...extra cash? an SRT8 hood? Any help would be appreciated.:(
 

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Are you ok? You never mentioned if you were injured or not. As for the insurance, usually they'll send someone out to take a look at the damage and determine how much it will cost to repair. Once a price has been decided they'll send you a check, minus deductible, for the repair, that's if they don't declare it totaled.
 

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Got into a wreck today, dude was at fault...anyway this is my first accident ever..being in one that is...as a cop I would come on scene assess the situation and give out the appropriate paperwork...but as a person within the accident... I don't know what to do...I called my insurance, notified them of the damages, they said based on the way I described the accident, I was not at fault...But my question is whats next...the rep said something about an adjuster calling me, after they assess the damages....then I guess I would pick a repair shop to fix it up...and dish out my deductible....could I get anything out of this...extra cash? an SRT8 hood? Any help would be appreciated.:(
Its good that you contacted your insurance right away. Next step is to contact their insurance and find a reputable shop to do the work. The shop should be able to work with you on the parts you get for the car. After the estimate is given, you will get a parts list. Usually OEM parts are more expensive then aftermarket. If this is the case, you can replace pretty much any damaged part with an aftermarket part of equal or lesser cost. Even if the part is more expensive..... say the hood you want is 150 bucks more then oem, You can give them an extra 150....and now you have an srt hood for 150 bucks. And like I said, usually oem is more expensive. So you could possibly come out on top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Next step is to contact their insurance and find a reputable shop to do the work. The shop should be able to work with you on the parts you get for the car. After the estimate is given, you will get a parts list. Usually OEM parts are more expensive then aftermarket. If this is the case, you can replace pretty much any damaged part with an aftermarket part of equal or lesser cost. Even if the part is more expensive..... say the hood you want is 150 bucks more then oem, You can give them an extra 150....and now you have an srt hood for 150 bucks. And like I said, usually oem is more expensive. So you could possibly come out on top.
Im fine, thanks for asking SupremeG...Well I have Geico as my insurance, and they said that they wont send me a check, they said something about making a check out to the body shop...is this normal or a way to prevent me from coming on top. Was I suppose to contact their insurance also, I thought my insurance would do that for me...As far as OEM goes, I thought thats what they would purchase...so they are going to get aftermarket parts to my charger? Im gonna go get some pictures of the car at the shop. The car wasn't totaled...The car was in perfect shape except for the passenger side front area..it was smashed in. Both air bags deployed and I heard that these are expensive as hell to replace. Is that true?
 

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Like listed above, find a good shop that you trust and I'd request OEM parts, unless you want a different hood, etc.. Insurance Co.'s are trying to save a buck and often will use aftermarket pricing on estimate. The shop you go to can also apply for extended funds, say if they find front end damage that occured that adjuster did not quote. Their insurance company, should be handling the bill, not yours. Unless they were uninsured or not at fault. Air bag replacement is fairly expensive, but should also be covered Good Luck...hope your back on road soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Like listed above, find a good shop that you trust and I'd request OEM parts, unless you want a different hood, etc.. Insurance Co.'s are trying to save a buck and often will use aftermarket pricing on estimate. The shop you go to can also apply for extended funds, say if they find front end damage that occured that adjuster did not quote. Their insurance company, should be handling the bill, not yours. Unless they were uninsured or not at fault. Air bag replacement is fairly expensive, but should also be covered Good Luck...hope your back on road soon.
Well should I go to my dealers body shop where I got the car from, they seem pretty cool there...or should I find a bunch of other shops and ask them about replacing a damaged vehicle with OEM parts? Lets say the adjuster quotes me on like 8-10K damage, and the body shop would fix it for around 6...would I be able to use the extra money to get a better hood or could I get the extra money in my pocket?

At one point the rep I spoke to said If I want them to handle the claim or if I wanted to go through the at fault drivers insurance...I said no, I want you guys to handle everything, thats what I pay you for. Would there have been a benefit if I filed my claim with the other guys insurance. Im gonna try to get some pictures up later, when I get a ride to the place where my cars at....and hopefully someone on here can tell me if im fuqed...or if everything will be cool. Will update info as I get more info...thanks all to who responded!
 

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If the other guy is at fault, his insurance should pay. I just had mine fixed last month, wife drove into back of a Range Rover. Before we got that fixed, my wife was side swiped by some tweeker in a POS. The other lady's insurance sent an adjuster out to see our car, and sent us a cheque for the damages to the side of the car. With this money we were able to fix the side and the front. Our insurance would pay to fix the damage my wife did to the front, but we had to pay the $750. deductable. Word of caution, pick a body shop that does good work. We were able to get this extra work done but, I was very disappointed with the quality of work. The shop looked reputable enough, but , not up to the standards they said they were. They will most likely use OEM parts because there isn't many aftermarket parts out for our cars yet. Hope this helps, wish I did more research with mine

Zach
 

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if you file a claim on YOUR insurance, that will cause YOUR rate to go up. It takes 3 years to come off you ins. record = higher rates. If you go through their insurance, no claim on yours and no high rates. The insurance your pay is to cover the damage you cause to other vehicles, persons in both vehicles (your fault) Uninsured motorist hitting your car and damage other than theft would also be paid by yours. I would definitely go through their company, its their fault.

Your agent should be advising what is best for you, that's what you pay him for. Most just want to collect renewal fees and not do much work. I go to see mine before renewal and check to see if anything needs to be changed (driving records, accident records, etc..) Also read your declaration sheet (papers that come with you cards) when sent every 6 months.

I would find a body shop that you know does good work. Ask people you know, that have had work done or do some quality paint and custom work. Most insurance companys now issue checks (for this type of amount) to shop doing work, signed by you also, at least that been my experience. So making money off of accident is a little tricky. Your car should be exactly as it was before accident, you should be satisfied with results before taking car and signing off on work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the other guy is at fault, his insurance should pay. I just had mine fixed last month, wife drove into back of a Range Rover. Before we got that fixed, my wife was side swiped by some tweeker in a POS. The other lady's insurance sent an adjuster out to see our car, and sent us a cheque for the damages to the side of the car. With this money we were able to fix the side and the front. Our insurance would pay to fix the damage my wife did to the front, but we had to pay the $750. deductable. Word of caution, pick a body shop that does good work. We were able to get this extra work done but, I was very disappointed with the quality of work. The shop looked reputable enough, but , not up to the standards they said they were. They will most likely use OEM parts because there isn't many aftermarket parts out for our cars yet. Hope this helps, wish I did more research with mine

Zach
Thanks for the info Zach! Whats the best way to find a reputable body shop? The only body shops I know of is my dealers shop, the rep there was pretty professional, but I dont know how well their work is...and the other is from another shop, that a guy at autozone said they are pretty good...this info was given to me when I got a scratch on my hood of the car, from fumbling with a screwdriver...but I guess Ill check the yellow pages, but its all names, I still wont be able to tell how well their work is.

Anyway after the adjuster checks the vehicle and guesstimates a price to repair it...will they transport the vehicle to the shop of my choosing and then the guys at the shop will provide me with what it will cost to fix the charger, then I make a comparison off the adjusters and the shop? So lets say the adjuster says the damage is 5k and the body shop says they can have it like new for 6k, whats gonna happen? Who's gonna front that extra 1k? As I said any info is appreciated...will try to keep u guys updated...thanks all!!
 

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If dealer shop does good work and you fell comfortable, use them. The shop will put in for extra cost on repairs, the adjuster initial amount is not the final amount. The shop will have to send itemized list and should tell you the same. You should not have to pay anything (including deductable) going through their insurance. I'd speek to shop manager and your adjuster. They will also pay or should include in estimate the cost to transport your car for repairs and rental (usually @ $30 a day limit) Hope this helps some, keep us up to date:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if you file a claim on YOUR insurance, that will cause YOUR rate to go up. It takes 3 years to come off you ins. record = higher rates. If you go through their insurance, no claim on yours and no high rates. The insurance your pay is to cover the damage you cause to other vehicles, persons in both vehicles (your fault) Uninsured motorist hitting your car and damage other than theft would also be paid by yours. I would definitely go through their company, its their fault.

Your agent should be advising what is best for you, that's what you pay him for. Most just want to collect renewal fees and not do much work. I go to see mine before renewal and check to see if anything needs to be changed (driving records, accident records, etc..) Also read your declaration sheet (papers that come with you cards) when sent every 6 months.
Well I called my insurance company again and asked them about my insurance rates and if it would have been better to go through the other dudes insurance...he said that because of the scenario I described, that I was not at fault, and with an accident report concuring with me, there is no reason my insurance would go up. He then explained the differences of claims through my insurance and the at fault driver.
Basically Geico handles everything, they pay for everything, then in turn they would try to get all the money back plus extra...If they get extra money they would reimburse my deductible back...vs. me going through the dudes insurance, they would ask me a series of questions then they would base my answers off what the other driver said about the accident. They said this procedure is longer, because they would have to get in touch with both parties, and try to get the correct story... but you wouldnt have to pay a deductible.
My sister is busy so I cant get any pictures. One big lesson I learned is make sure you have rental insurance and I dont. First thing Im getting after the car is repaired.
 

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That's cool, Rental insurance is pretty cheap too. Hope all works out
 

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Can't you bill the other insurance company for rental? It is their clients fault your car is in the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can't you bill the other insurance company for rental? It is their clients fault your car is in the shop.
That's a good point, I'm going to contact my insurance company again, and ask them if i can get a rental car by billing the other guys insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here's a quick update...The Geico adjuster contacted me around 830 and said he was on his way to the vehicle. He just recontacted me about 10 mins ago, and stated on a scale of 1-10, the damage was a 5, but it can easily be replaced. He stated my parts were extremely expensive being an SRT8, like the front bumper being 1200. I stated its not, It's an R/T with a few mods to replicate the SRT8, well he said I already submitted the invoice and on my way back to the shop. He stated that Im basically getting over, with an SRT8 front bumber....wee...maybe Im can get the hood, but he didnt mention that. But the damages came up to 9200, and the car is on its way to the body shop. He told me to call them several times to make sure its there and to bother them so that they get on my vehicle as soon as possible. Also he said I would be getting a check for 1500 because of the diminished value of my car...pretty sweet. Ill be happy once the car is repaired and it looks like new...will update you guys later...thanks all
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here's a quick update...The Geico adjuster contacted me around 830 and said he was on his way to the vehicle. He just recontacted me about 10 mins ago, and stated on a scale of 1-10, the damage was a 5, but it can easily be replaced. He stated my parts were extremely expensive being an SRT8, like the front bumper being 1200. I stated its not, It's an R/T with a few mods to replicate the SRT8, well he said I already submitted the invoice and on my way back to the shop. He stated that Im basically getting over, with an SRT8 front bumber....wee...maybe Im can get the hood, but he didnt mention that. But the damages came up to 9200, and the car is on its way to the body shop. He told me to call them several times to make sure its there and to bother them so that they get on my vehicle as soon as possible. Also he said I would be getting a check for 1500 because of the diminished value of my car...pretty sweet. Ill be happy once the car is repaired and it looks like new...will update you guys later...thanks all
The lot where my vehicle was taken just called me, asking if i want to release my vehicle to Geico towing service...so my car is on its way to the body shop...WEEEE
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Well I just talk to the body shop, and they said they have many cars ahead of me...so they said they will begin work on my car 2 weeks from now...is that a good thing or bad...maybe they are so good everyone is going there or maybe they suck so much they cant handle the cars that come in...who knows...here is the invoice...its like encrypted to me :p but i do see alot of srt8 when i have the r/t..haha\

2007 DODG CHARGER RT 8-5.7L-FI 4D SED RED INT:GRAY
VIN: XXXXXXXXXXXXXX251 LIC: XXXXXXX GA PROD DATE: ODOMETER: 2636
AIR CONDITIONING REAR DEFOGGER TILT WHEEL
CRUISE CONTROL TELESCOPIC WHEEL INTERMITTENT WIPERS
KEYLESS ENTRY BODY SIDE MOLDINGS DUAL MIRRORS
CONSOLE/STORAGE ROOF CONSOLE ELECTRIC GLASS SUNROOF
TRACTION CONTROL FOG LAMPS CLEAR COAT PAINT
POWER STEERING POWER BRAKES POWER WINDOWS
POWER LOCKS POWER DRIVER SEAT POWER MIRRORS
POWER TRUNK/TAILGATE AM RADIO FM RADIO
STEREO SEARCH/SEEK CD PLAYER
ANTI-LOCK BRAKES (4) DRIVER AIR BAG PASSENGER AIR BAG
4 WHEEL DISC BRAKES LEATHER SEATS BUCKET SEATS
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OVERDRIVE ALUMINUM/ALLOY WHEELS
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NO. OP. DESCRIPTION QTY EXT. PRICE LABOR PAINT
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 FRONT BUMPER
N 2 REPL BUMPER COVER W/SRT8 1 1260.00
2.0 3.2
3 ADD FOR CLEAR COAT 1.3
4 REPL ADD FOR FOG LAMPS 1 0.4
N 5 REPL IMPACT BAR 1 164.00 0.6
6 GRILLE
N 7 REPL GRILLE W/SRT8 BLACK 1 239.00 INCL. 1.2
N 8 REPL EMBLEM 1 22.45 INCL.
9 FRONT LAMPS
N 10 REPL RT HEADLAMP ASSY TO 11/08/06 1 200.00 INCL.
11 AIM HEADLAMPS 0.5
N 12 R&I LT HEADLAMP ASSY TO 11/08/06 0.3
13 R&I RT FOG LAMP INCL.
14 R&I LT FOG LAMP INCL.
15 RADIATOR SUPPORT
N 16 REPL UPPER TIE BAR 1 264.00 S 1.5 1.0
N 17 REPL UNDERBODY SHIELD W/SRT8 1 170.00 INCL.
18 HOOD
N 19 REPL HOOD W/O SRT8 1 952.00 1.6 2.8

20 ADD FOR CLEAR COAT 1.1
21 ADD FOR UNDERSIDE(COMPLETE) 1.4
22 FENDER
N 23 REPL RT FENDER 1 108.00 2.0 2.0
24 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
25 ADD FOR CLEAR COAT 0.3
26 ADD FOR EDGING 0.5
27 DEDUCT FOR OVERLAP -0.4
N 28 BLND LT FENDER 1.0
N 29 REPL RT FENDER LINER 1 40.00 INCL.
N 30 REPL RT UPPER RAIL 1 47.70 S 3.5 0.8
N 31* RPR RT OUTER RAIL S 1.0* 0.6
N 32* RPR RT APRON ASSY S 2.0* 0.8*
33 WHEELS
N 34* RPR RT/FRONT WHEEL, ALLOY 18X7.5, M 0.5* M
SXT & R/T CODE WRC
35 ELECTRICAL
N 36 REPL MODULATOR W/TRACTION CONTROL 1 349.00 M 1.4 M
37 RESTRAINT SYSTEMS
N 38 REPL RT RETRACTOR ASSY LIGHT 1 202.00 1.1
GRAYSTONE
N 39 REPL RT FRONT SENSOR 1 14.25 M 0.3 M
N 40 REPL DRIVER AIR BAG 1 492.00 MINCL.
N 41 REPL PSNGR AIR BAG 1 484.00 M 0.5 M
N 42 REPL LT RETRACTOR ASSY LIGHT 1 104.00 1.1
GRAYSTONE
N 43 REPL CLOCKSPRING 1 49.95 M 1.1 M
44 WINDSHIELD
N 45 REPL WASHER RESERVOIR 1 51.25 0.8
46 INSTRUMENT PANEL
N 47 REPL INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT 1 822.00 6.8
GRAYSTONE
48 INFORMATION LABELS
49 RPL INFORMATION LABELS 0.3
N 50 REPL EMISSION LABEL 5.7 LITER 1 0.35 INCL.
N 51 REPL INFO LABEL FAN 1 0.85 INCL.
52 PILLARS, ROCKER & FLOOR
N 53 R&I RT ROCKER MOLDING BLACK 0.8
N 54 R&I LT ROCKER MOLDING BLACK 0.8
55 FRONT DOOR
N 56 BLND RT DOOR SHELL 1.2
57 R&I RT BELT MOLDING 0.3
58* R&I RT BODY SIDE MLDG SXT, R/T, 0.3*
SRT8 BLACK
59* RPR RT BODY SIDE MLDG SXT, R/T, 0.3* 0.0*
SRT8 BLACK
60 R&I RT POWER MIRROR HEATED & 0.5
FOLDAWAY CHROME
61 R&I RT HANDLE, OUTSIDE BLACK 0.4
62 R&I RT R&I TRIM PANEL 0.5
N 63# RPR SET-UP AND MEASURE 2.0
N 64# RPR UNIBODY PULLS AND SQUARE 2.0 F
65# HAZARDOUS WASTE 1 3.00 X
N 66# SUBL FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 1 49.99 X
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUBTOTALS ==> 6089.79 36.8 18.8


1JG4ZCHO
ESTIMATE OF RECORD

ESTIMATE NOTES:
PLACE OF LOSS: PH TO TURN INTO CHEVRON, CLMT CAME OUT AND HIT PH, PAY CD: 2V
DI: DM: 35 CO: 01 NI: 1 LDC: 511 SYM: COL TOWED: YINST: PLEASE SEE TCM-DIV
CALC GA HAS DIMINISHED VALUE FOR PH.AIRBAG INFLT: N LH: DCFS TRUST
INCPT DT:RR: MBI: UMPD: 50/500D;


TOWING- 110.00 TOWING, 15.00 PER DAY STORARE- 2NDY TOW SET-UP TO MOVE TO
SHOP

CHECK ISSUED TO ISND AND SHOP

NO RENTAL COVERAGE

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRIOR DAMAGE NOTES:
NONE

PARTS 6036.80
BODY LABOR 31.0 HRS @$ 38.00/HR 1178.00
PAINT LABOR 18.8 HRS @$ 38.00/HR 714.40
MECHANICAL LABOR 3.8 HRS @$ 65.00/HR 247.00
FRAME LABOR 2.0 HRS @$ 60.00/HR 120.00
PAINT SUPPLIES 400.00
SUBLET/MISC. 52.99
----------------------------------------------------
SUBTOTAL $ 8749.19
SALES TAX $ 6436.80 @ 7.0000% 450.58
----------------------------------------------------
TOTAL COST OF REPAIRS $ 9199.77

ADJUSTMENTS:
DEDUCTIBLE 500.00
----------------------------------------------------
TOTAL ADJUSTMENTS $ 500.00
NET COST OF REPAIRS $ 8699.77
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
here are a few pics...the srt8 hood is like 1300, i think on most sites...but based on the invoice, it looks like they are putting on the regular hood...oh well :p
 

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If you want the SRT hood, go to the body shop with the hood number (it should be in the part numbers thread) and tell them to order it instead of the regular, and you will pay the difference. The body shop are the ones responsible for getting the parts anyway.
 

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If you want the SRT hood, go to the body shop with the hood number (it should be in the part numbers thread) and tell them to order it instead of the regular, and you will pay the difference. The body shop are the ones responsible for getting the parts anyway.
absolutely! Instead of paying full price on an srt8 hood, you now only have to pay the difference between the r/t hood and the srt8 hood. Which in my estimate is about 350 bucks.... wish I could get that hood for 350. Matter of fact, if you don't want to do that, I will send you 350 bucks and my stock r/t hood, then have them send me the SRT8 hood.....just a thought:grin:
 
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