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the amp is under the dash right behind the trunk release botton. and the sub is in the rear speaker deck toward the passinger side of the deck-open the trunk and look up under the rear window at the black felt covered trim piece that is covering the top of the trunk-now look under there by pulling it down alittle-just to the right of dead center of the trunk you will find the sub woofer over by the right rear 6x9
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i got that far. i need to know if there is another amp that is sub specific or not. All i want to do is upgrade the da*m thing from 6 to 7 speakers. Dealer told me both the 276 and the 322 watt amps have the same part numbers so i'm lost now. Is there a setting inside the amp? I pulled voltage with my meter from the rear speaker but there is no power at the plug i have for the sub. the sub plug is identical to the speaker plug for the 6X9's. That leads me to believe that plug is for the sub itself not another amp but if both the 276 and 322 watt amps have the part number what is the difference?
 

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its probably a multi channel amp. Multi channel amps can have different amperages based on output levels. If its a 5 channel amp it could have the 276 watts going to door speakers and 322 going just to sub. each pair of channels could be crossed over at different levels too
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
that's what i thought too but the dealer is telling me that the amplifier part numbers are the same with the 6 or 7 speaker system. I also just learned there is a TSB on my amplifier and apparently you can program the amp the same as you program the ECU. could there be a setting to power up the sub channel? i'll call around again monday.
 

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just ask the dealer for the 322 watt amp... that's the one with the sub output... Either that, or go for the kicker upgrade amp... I think it's got like 376 watts, or something around that. That should have it too.
 

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I just did this upgrade. I added the stock sub woofer to the deck and swapped
to the 322w amp. I got both of these items from members here. I also swapped
the rear BA's for Kickers.

Now after doing all this I actually lost bass. Sure there is a little more bottom
from the sub when it's cranked ( 22-23 +) but the rest of the time I have less
low end. I've had to crank the bass way up from where I had it previously just
for it to feel the same.

Now the clarity is better than before but the mids are way up as well and I hate
mids. I'm going to try going back to the BA's and see if it helps. If not it may also
be that I got the wrong 322w amp but I don't know. It's from a SRT and I'm not
sure if the kicker system uses a different 322w amp since it has the bigger rear
trunk sub also.

As for the 368w amp I've heard it's designed to go with kickers & the new rear subs
so it doesn't sound that great in our cars if you don't add the trunk sub. The crossover
setting etc are different and it isn't designed for the BA's. That's what made me
think I may have bought the wrong 322w amp. So if the swap back to BA's doesn't
help I'll try switching back to the 6 channel 276w amp.

FYI - The 2 amps had different part #'s, well at least the stickers on them
had different #'s.

Sorry for the novel.
 

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368 watt amp requires a powered sub.
 

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can you get me the part numbers off the 322 watt and original 276? i'd love to make the dealer look stupid.
It's a dealer, LOL

Call Mopar Super Center, and just order from there.
 

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When I bought my used charger RT, i was lucky enough to get a build sheet with it saying that i have an eight channel amp installed. I verified the number on the build sheet with the number on the side of the amp. The car apparently only has the 6 speaker BA setup, though. Like Russell072009, i have the sub plug at the rear deck but no power to it. Why would Dodge be placing an eight channel amp into the car when only 6 channels are being used? It sure does seem like there would be a switch or reprogram option somewhere to be able to use the other two channels.

Any ideas?
 

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When I bought my used charger RT, i was lucky enough to get a build sheet with it saying that i have an eight channel amp installed. I verified the number on the build sheet with the number on the side of the amp. The car apparently only has the 6 speaker BA setup, though. Like Russell072009, i have the sub plug at the rear deck but no power to it. Why would Dodge be placing an eight channel amp into the car when only 6 channels are being used? It sure does seem like there would be a switch or reprogram option somewhere to be able to use the other two channels.

Any ideas?
you just dont have the better stereo option. You have to pay for the extra stuff . If you bought a car that didnt have the sub in it then that option wasnt on your car. This way they can use the same amp for 4 different stereo setups to save cost.
 

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wickedchargerrt: That's exactly what i mean. I know i don't have the subwoofer option installed, but if the same head unit, same amplifier, and same wiring harness can be used for both options, I wonder if there is a way to make the 6 speaker option into a 7. I'm not sure, but it seems plausible if someone has the correct "tools", though i don't know what they might be either.
 

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wickedchargerrt: That's exactly what i mean. I know i don't have the subwoofer option installed, but if the same head unit, same amplifier, and same wiring harness can be used for both options, I wonder if there is a way to make the 6 speaker option into a 7. I'm not sure, but it seems plausible if someone has the correct "tools", though i don't know what they might be either.
In some cases yes, you could throw a sub in and go about your way in others not. the amplifier communicates with the radio and if the radio (these are both modules) is set up from the factory with the sub option off then even if you plug in a sub it wont work cause the radio , which controls everything, doesnt "see" the sub.
Honestly the stock amp and sub are absolute junk. For a couple hundred bucks you can throw a decent sub and amp back in the trunk on your own. Dont waste your money buying the low level stock stuff and paying to get it to work when you can do better on the aftermarket side in this case.
 

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the amplifier communicates with the radio and if the radio (these are both modules) is set up from the factory with the sub option off then even if you plug in a sub it wont work cause the radio , which controls everything, doesnt "see" the sub.
I beg to differ, but on this platform, the radio is only a slave to the primary amp. The radio is only an interface to the CANBUS signals intimate to audio. The radio (Head Unit) does not "see" anything, insofar as what speakers are plugged in to it.

You can add a sub to any OEM LX Head Unit, even if the vehicle wasn't factory equipped. It just depends on where you want to take your sub signal from, and how much you are willing to sacrifice (audio wise) in doing it.

In the Premium Audio build vehicles, there is a signal pair run to the trunk where it is either connected to the 8" sub in the deck (Boston), or to a 6 or 10 pin connector for the Kicker Sub Amp and Sub combo. There is no separate fade control for this signal source.

When adding a stock sub setup, connect to this pair of wires to get the best signal source for your sub amp (Kicker add on, or aftermarket). This will give you clean bass. The only caveat being that you will experience some amount of "roll off" above the 22 volume level on the stock HU, but you will have nice bass throughout the spectrum.

Both Kicker and Chrysler recommend hooking up to the driver's side 6x9 as an alternative, but DON'T DO IT. The 6x9 is crossed over at a crappy frequency for bass and you will not be happy with the mud that your sub will be pushing.

If you're considering going aftermarket, as has been editorialized already, consider using a Pac-Audio C2A-CHY black box for your bass signal and remote turn on wire. This is absolutely the best way to add an amp to your vehicle and there's no cutting or spicing necessary. Simply remove the Head Unit, plug this box inline, run your RCA's and +12VDC wire and replace the Head Unit. It's the cleanest, unconditioned signal you can push to an aftermarket amp on this platform (when maintaining a stock HU and factory amp setup) IMHO.

Hope this helps,
Bob
 
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