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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Features:
NOVI 1200 supercharger pushing 6 PSIG of boost
Supercharger is supplied with engine oil
Easy bolt-on installation
Full step by step instruction’s
Air to water after-cooler
Aluminum discharge and intake tubes
Custom Hemi Fuel/ Timing Controller (Tunable via laptop programming)
Fuel controller software package included w/ real time data log
Custom billet auxiliary fuel rail fed by stock fuel rails
All fuel system conversion parts included
All billet aluminum construction on fuel components
50 state legal pending

Upgrade-able to 8-10PSIG kit for up to 500 rwhp/450 torque
Normal hand tools, no special tools required
 

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Cha-ching, don't forget the price:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh yeah, NO I did not install this Super Charger on my R/T. It's $5300 to for this mod. 460 - 480 Horsepower, is out of control. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Anybody know of some ways to squeeze more horsepower of the 5.7L hemi, without having to break the engine down? I don't want to have to replace the cam, lifters, roller rockers or any of that.
 

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KurbyRTHemi said:
Anybody know of some ways to squeeze more horsepower of the 5.7L hemi, without having to break the engine down? I don't want to have to replace the cam, lifters, roller rockers or any of that.

NOS kit....150 shot
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any other ideas T/A? Not really into cooking the heads and pistons with NOS.
 

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KurbyRTHemi said:
Any other ideas T/A? Not really into cooking the heads and pistons with NOS.
Other than breaking down the engine, I do not know of any that will net large horepower gains (other than a supercharger)......small gains include air intake, intake manifold, asp pulley, exhaust upgrades, performance chip or predator-type tune, also other bolt ons that help are 160 thermostat, electric fan, ignition wires and plugs.......those are basic for engine upgrades...if you want quicker acceleration go for drivetrain upgrades when they are available such as ring&pinion..........if you have the money, a heads port and polish is a good upgrade, though that is breaking down the engine.....
 

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Don't forget the tranny mods..;)

And on the subject of Nitrous.. I have ran many kits and will never use NOS Noids.. They plain suck.. Have had a couple freeze up on me, and know a few people that have had to replace engines because the NOS noids froze open or did not open.

NX noids are larger and over all much better. But the NOS fuel injector nozzels for direct chanber injection are the best unless you wish to use the NX taps into the runners.

Even if I do S/C my hemi, I will still run Nitrous, or at least compressed CO2 to cool the IC. I figure a 12# Carbon Fiber bottle in the trunk and a small 35hp shot will cool charge enough to help get some serious numbers with out risk of high intake charge causing detonation problems
 

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vsop said:
Don't forget the tranny mods..;)

And on the subject of Nitrous.. I have ran many kits and will never use NOS Noids.. They plain suck.. Have had a couple freeze up on me, and know a few people that have had to replace engines because the NOS noids froze open or did not open.

NX noids are larger and over all much better. But the NOS fuel injector nozzels for direct chanber injection are the best unless you wish to use the NX taps into the runners.

Even if I do S/C my hemi, I will still run Nitrous, or at least compressed CO2 to cool the IC. I figure a 12# Carbon Fiber bottle in the trunk and a small 35hp shot will cool charge enough to help get some serious numbers with out risk of high intake charge causing detonation problems

I was thinking about puting a 50-100 shot in mine, I plan on racing it on the weekends (bracket racing), I live about 10 min. from the local track
 

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T/A Rumbler said:
Other than breaking down the engine, I do not know of any that will net large horepower gains (other than a supercharger)......small gains include air intake, intake manifold, asp pulley, exhaust upgrades, performance chip or predator-type tune, also other bolt ons that help are 160 thermostat, electric fan, ignition wires and plugs.......those are basic for engine upgrades...if you want quicker acceleration go for drivetrain upgrades when they are available such as ring&pinion..........if you have the money, a heads port and polish is a good upgrade, though that is breaking down the engine.....
Don't use a 160 degree thermostat. I am trying to locate a thread an another forum where I argued about cooler thermostats. Some one argued that a 180 degree thermostat would make the engine run richer and wear out faster. His reason was the engine would not come out of warm-up (open loop programming). This means the computer would not make adjustments base on O2 sensor readings.
Someone clamed to have found in the service manual that the computer comes out of open loop after 168 degrees is reached by the coolant. If it doesn?t reach that you will loose performance and cause damage to your engine. I can not find this information but that agrees with other engines I have worked on. Changing to a 180 thermostat and changing the fan on points would be welcome by a lot of us, but to date there is no way to adjust the fans.

There are no Intake manifold, or ring and pinion gears available yet. I doubt there will be any intake manifold for the LX cars.
The fans already are electric. I?m pretty sure the stock ignition system is good for more than the stock engine can use.

So, far there are a few cam shafts available that do not require tuning. I have know idea how hard they are to change but it may be as simple as the LS1 engines.

More will come and more reviews will follow.
________
Roll A Joint
 

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needasrt4 said:
hay guys i am haveing a supercharger but on right now
You've been saying that for a year or so haven't you? But seriously, how's it going with that...
 

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yes, it left here May 16th for headers then on to the GS for the Supercharger, we gave it to them for a lengthy time for them to work everything out on the kits, they are actually at the dyno with it now as we speak and we hope to see our baby home late this weekend or Monday
 

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T/A Rumbler said:
I was thinking about puting a 50-100 shot in mine, I plan on racing it on the weekends (bracket racing), I live about 10 min. from the local track

A 100 shot should be no problem on the V8's.. Only thing is that I would not recommend doing a wet shot with a nozzel before the TB. To much of a chance for pooling of fuel.

I would get the Nos Fuel Injector nozzels and use NX noids, bottles, and the bottle heater/cooler from NX. Also the NX opener works 300% better then the NOS one.. I had both and the nos one did not even fully open the bottle.


As for the comments above about the changing the T-stat. He is correct, on many of the cars you can not change to a lower temp with out getting a serious tune to make the changes in the ecu. Even then its show that it can still hurt performance and the engine. I would never go below a 180 degree T-stat. And most times unless the coolent has a real effect on the intake charge its not worth the effort.

Once I get my SRT I'll have to see how well the upgraded rad works. Might swap it higher performance race unit and low profile fans to give some more space.

As far as the ignition system goes, I have not looked into the coil packs that they use on the hemi's but I would say that an upgraded system like MDS would be a good idea if you are going to S/C or run Nitrous. this way you can set special timing curves, have multiple programs, limiters, etc.. as well as not have to worry as much about spark blow out. Lets just hope MDS makes a plug and play wiring harness for the hemi's



Last is the aftermarket intakes. Honestly I see no point. If you go and get a port and polish on your heads then either just go for a port match on the intakes, better would be a simple hand polishing of the runners as far as they can get with hand tools. Then the more $$$ option is to get it sent out for the full treatment with the blast machine or have someone cut it and then reweld after porting and polishing.

Obviously what you choose would be based on what you wallet is like and what you will be doing with the car. A larger intake plenum would be better for S/Ced cars, then the runner lengths would depend on the cam, the port and where you want your powerband as well as if you are going N/A, Nitrous, or Blown.

As you can see there are lots of options depending on the budget and the plans for the car
 

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I don't know about making more horsepower, but you can make the car LOTS quicker off the line with a high stall torque converter. The rear gears are only 2.82 or 3.06, so switching to a lower gear ratio will also help, although probably not as much as a high stall converter.

You can also look into long tube headers, the LS1 guys are seeing 40 hp gains with long tubes (and nothing with shorties - the stock manifolds actually work very well). And a cold-air intake can add a few hp as well.
 

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Stone, keep in mind this trans is controlled by a VERY smart system, and might take some severe digital magic to make it play well with others:)
 

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Are there any links that discuss the A580 transmission electronics? Unless the throttle position is altered based on TC slip, which doesn't really make sense to me (why build a 425 hp motor and then hold it back?), the TC stall won't matter. The tranny in my impala is COMPLETELY electronic and I run a 3500 stall converter in that. That mod alone knocked 8 tenths off my ET.

The A580 might be different, but the 4L60e in my impala has an electronically controlled lockup torque converter and the shifts are controlled by a combination of engine speed and throttle position; yet it loves the Yank 9.5" converter I installed in it.
 
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