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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 Dodge Charger RT. Im still new to modding. I currently have a K&N cold air intake, a Hurst elite catback exhaust, also have have Itune Diablo 91 octane tune(running 91 octane fuel also). It runs fast. I just want to know what else I can do to bump up the speed to keep up or atleast meet with a 392. Also I updated my diablo tuner but I can only get 91 octane. The 93 octane isn't a option. Should I put back my default tune and reset the tuner to see if it will give me the option of 93? I was also thinking to get headers but idk if I should get shorties or long head. Freind a mine said I should run shorties. Only put long head tunes if im pushing 700 hp. Which im currently am not. Any advice?
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Forced induction, a good tuner and a dyno. No need for headers. 7psi max on stock internals and you will frustrate stock scats. If you want to be stealth get an Edelbrock E-Force or Magnuson TVS blower. If you want everyone in earshot to know you have FI and hear it every time you move the throttle go Whipple.

About 12k if a shop does it, 7k if you do it.
 

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No need for headers
If you're going to increase the volume/flow of air into the engine (FI) you should increase the volume/flow of air out of the engine (balanced air pump in/out). I would install headers with FI rather than keep the restrictive factory exhaust manifolds. If you're keeping the FI boost pressure low, with stock internals, shorty tube headers will be an improvement over factory exhaust manifolds.

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Factory cast iron exhaust manifold

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Shorty tube headers
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Nope. OE are not as restricted as some believe, and w forced induction @7 area Headers cause more trouble than worth. Shorties do nothing for anyone otherwise.
 

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Tube headers will perform better than OE log-style exhaust manifolds. The exhaust pulses in tube headers allow each cylinder to empty out without any interference from the other cylinders until they exit the collector. This improved scavenging is generally why long tubes can outperform short tubes and short tubes can outperform log-style manifolds. But I do agree that with low boost FI on a small block (5.7L Hemi) the short tube headers are a better choice over long tubes (OEM fit and easier tuning).
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Nitro, or Blower, or cam, and only then Headers, Otherwise your just fooling yourself.
A tune will perk up throttle response and wind out more, but no real hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tube headers will perform better than OE log-style exhaust manifolds. The exhaust pulses in tube headers allow each cylinder to empty out without any interference from the other cylinders until they exit the collector. This improved scavenging is generally why long tubes can outperform short tubes and short tubes can outperform log-style manifolds. But I do agree that with low boost FI on a small block (5.7L Hemi) the short tube headers are a better choice over long tubes (OEM fit and easier tuning).
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Do you have a recommendation for which shortie headers I should get? Also I'm also on regular man budget. I know alot would help me if I super charged it. I dont have 7K. So for now it'll have to stay naturally aspirated.
 

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Header brands that are actual quality, look at American Racing headers or Kooks. You’re looking at about $1600 total for 15-20rwhp

Realistically you can put a decent nitrous kit together for 2500-3000$ and can see 100rwhp completely stock otherwise.


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for now it'll have to stay naturally aspirated.
Your best mods for a daily driver, NA, and a budget is a custom tune. You already have the Diablo programmer so a 91 octane Stage-1 custom tune will cost $200.00 It's an email custom tuning process that applies to stock or bolt on modified vehicles. Price is the same for nitrous tuning if you decide to add nitrous (see link below).
As already mentioned, there's American Racing and Kooks headers. They are good quality stainless headers but usually are more expensive. The other option is to go with a brand like JBA but get the ceramic coated headers; not just stainless steel. Cost of installation varies depending on shorty vs long tube and the exhaust shop doing the install. I was quoted prices ranging from $600 to $1000 to install OEM fit shorty headers (long tubes will cost more). If you do install headers it's recommended to use the Mopar OEM header gaskets (PN 5038098AA-99AA). They are better than the aftermarket gaskets that come with the headers (see link below).

2003 to 2014

MOPAR OEM 6.1L SRT-8 D-Port Exhaust Manifold (Header) Gasket Set (Fits 09+ 5.7L, 6.1L, 6.2L & 6.4L) - 05038098AA-99AA
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your best mods for a daily driver, NA, and a budget is a custom tune. You already have the Diablo programmer so a 91 octane Stage-1 custom tune will cost $200.00 It's an email custom tuning process that applies to stock or bolt on modified vehicles. Price is the same for nitrous tuning if you decide to add nitrous (see link below).
As already mentioned, there's American Racing and Kooks headers. They are good quality stainless headers but usually are more expensive. The other option is to go with a brand like JBA but get the ceramic coated headers; not just stainless steel. Cost of installation varies depending on shorty vs long tube and the exhaust shop doing the install. I was quoted prices ranging from $600 to $1000 to install OEM fit shorty headers (long tubes will cost more). If you do install headers it's recommended to use the Mopar OEM header gaskets (PN 5038098AA-99AA). They are better than the aftermarket gaskets that come with the headers (see link below).

2003 to 2014

MOPAR OEM 6.1L SRT-8 D-Port Exhaust Manifold (Header) Gasket Set (Fits 09+ 5.7L, 6.1L, 6.2L & 6.4L) - 05038098AA-99AA
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I will def check those out. I will be doing the headers with a freind of mine that has a car lift. So I wouldn't have to worry too much on price for install.
 

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I have a 2011 Dodge Charger RT. Im still new to modding. I currently have a K&N cold air intake, a Hurst elite catback exhaust, also have have Itune Diablo 91 octane tune(running 91 octane fuel also). It runs fast. I just want to know what else I can do to bump up the speed to keep up or atleast meet with a 392. Also I updated my diablo tuner but I can only get 91 octane. The 93 octane isn't a option. Should I put back my default tune and reset the tuner to see if it will give me the option of 93? I was also thinking to get headers but idk if I should get shorties or long head. Freind a mine said I should run shorties. Only put long head tunes if im pushing 700 hp. Which im currently am not. Any advice? View attachment 299316
Some of the performance mods I want on mine are high performance coils, long tube headers with high flow cats (off road ones would be better if you can find a shop that can get their hands on a set), new rear differential with better ratio (can't remember which ratio was best), 6.4l intake manifold with a better set of heads, the other mods are one's you've mentioned, long tubes are the best way to go, just don't go the cheap way out, and the more weight your car can lose the better, I haven't really looked at exactly how to reduce weight but these cars are 4,000lbs+
Also when adding more horses you'll wanna upgrade the torque converter.
This is all from what I been told or learned about mods, I'm still in the learning stage, these 5.7s handle boosts really well and can be pumped to scat level practically
 

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If you aren't building the engine to add displacement then boost or nitrous and maybe gears are your only hopes for giving Scats fits. You're trying to overcome better gearing, displacement, more cam, better heads and intake manifold all to the tune of 100+ more hp.
 

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I have a 2011 Dodge Charger RT. Im still new to modding. I currently have a K&N cold air intake, a Hurst elite catback exhaust, also have have Itune Diablo 91 octane tune(running 91 octane fuel also). It runs fast. I just want to know what else I can do to bump up the speed to keep up or atleast meet with a 392. Also I updated my diablo tuner but I can only get 91 octane. The 93 octane isn't a option. Should I put back my default tune and reset the tuner to see if it will give me the option of 93? I was also thinking to get headers but idk if I should get shorties or long head. Freind a mine said I should run shorties. Only put long head tunes if im pushing 700 hp. Which im currently am not. Any advice? View attachment 299316
Any chips work? Or are they all a joke?
 

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I try to read every post for this topic.
And as per common reply and actual work done (by other people), only this helps to reach the goal:

Forced induction, a good tuner and a dyno. No need for headers. 7psi max on stock internals and you will frustrate stock scats. If you want to be stealth get an Edelbrock E-Force or Magnuson TVS blower.
the many simple inexpensive mods, without serious hardware addition, will not cover the 100HP gap between R/T and SRT (SP)
There are variety of videos on Youtube, they claim, that with CAI, catback , headers, tuner, improved gear ratio, wider summer tires - the R/T will match the Scat Pack, but no dyno results have been shown to support the statements....
 

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I will def check those out. I will be doing the headers with a freind of mine that has a car lift. So I wouldn't have to worry too much on price for install.
Just remember that some of the header changes can be very big pain in the butt. I HIGHLY recommend that you watch a few videos on removing stuck exhaust bolts before you proceed. I hope that you will not have to do anything drastic, but I have seen this happen on cars with as few as 15k miles on them. Just remember that an ounce of prevention is worth it in time and expense.

Just so you know I am a retired mechanic and do have a clue what I am talking about.

Lastly djalbin gave great advice and knows what he is talking about. I will listen to him going forward.

Liquidd
 

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watch a few videos on removing stuck exhaust bolts before you proceed.
The 5.7L Hemi has aluminum heads and the factory exhaust manifolds are cast-iron with steel bolts. As recommended by Liquidd ... be very careful when removing the exhaust manifold bolts. Spray lots and lots of penetrating oil on the exhaust manifold bolts before attempting to remove them. Let it soak and don't over torque the bolts while trying to break them loose (factory spec is 18 ft. lbs. on installation).
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the many simple inexpensive mods, without serious hardware addition, will not cover the 100HP gap between R/T and SRT (SP)
There are variety of videos on Youtube, they claim, that with CAI, catback , headers, tuner, improved gear ratio, wider summer tires - the R/T will match the Scat Pack, but no dyno results have been shown to support the statements....
That's because dyno results will not support a 100HP gain with the inexpensive mods you listed. It's probably an average of $8K - $10K to reliably get that additional 100HP on the 5.7L That works out to $80 - $100 per HP ... which is not unusual for adding real HP/TQ. Nitrous systems can be cheaper per HP (depending on wet or dry systems) but are only good for on-demand use (i.e. until the bottle runs dry).
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