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I have a 2018 Scat....and I want to get more hp. I also know that more hp is probably going to be big $$$$. We have this question all the time on the Solstice forum when someone makes the mistake of buying an NA 2.4L over the turbo'd 2.0L. I know I want exhaust, or a mod to keep the active exhaust open. I know a CAI is great. Can I use anything like a Diablo programmer??? Would like to keep my powertrain warranty, but my b2b is almost up. I don't want to go insane....just make it sound good with another 50 or so hp....I'd take 100hp if it was reasonable without a lot of money.
 

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First off have you tired taking off from a light? There is no way you can launch on the street with the amount of power you already have. Go buy any tires you want, good luck with laying down the power.

I think the Scat Pack's power comes on way to quick. It hit's basically at Idle and can fry the tires until they are bald.

So you still have warranty left , not a good idea to try and modify anything until your our of warranty with things like a Tuner etc.

You can do exhaust work , intake CAI system if you wish, maybe a Throttle body but that's about it before you start voiding your warranty. I'm not sure if the Throttle body would be detected or would void your warranty.

Getting another 100HP out of the 6.4 is going to be expensive, there are no cheap mod's to give it more power. It's already pretty damn badass right out of the box. So back to the tires, this is where you could yield more power feeling, figure out a set of tires that actually put power to the ground and you might feel like you got another 50 HP or more.

What is your setup now? Have you done anything to it? What rims do you have ? Dynamic package or no?
 

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Cool...thanks. What exhaust? I have Solo on my Solstice and was thinking Solo on the Charger. I will stay away from mods and go with looks then. Springs? Would love the red LEDs around the headlights for shows.
 

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Cool...thanks. What exhaust? I have Solo on my Solstice and was thinking Solo on the Charger. I will stay away from mods and go with looks then. Springs? Would love the red LEDs around the headlights for shows.
I have the SOLO exhaust on my SRT 392 but I don't know if it is the same one they sell to the public because I was literally the 2nd customer and they didn't even have a retail boxed version yet; they just fabbed it up for me at their shop. It's loud AF. I have an AFE Momentum GT intake as well and my car dyno'd at 420 RWHP. So seems I didn't gain much if anything from those two mods. But it sounds badass.
 

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Go on You Tube? I thought that THE only option was a bigger cam, and headers for a good increase, and still be safe like others said. OR, Procharger, along with their PT warranty.
 

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Honestly I wouldn't mess with a 392 performance wise given the the 392 from factory is pretty much fully optimized and fun as hell as is. You can go FBO/Cammed with a tune and probably get close around 500 WHP N/A but that's gonna be a lot of moolah and the price for the power you get prob wouldn't be worth TBH. As for supercharger kits they are extremely expensive and without any engine work done I think only 6-8 pounds of boost can be safe on a stock 392 but that's prob better than the FBO/cam route. Like I said tho I don't think it's worth messing with these cars they are fun as hell stock.
 

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Honestly I wouldn't mess with a 392 performance wise given the the 392 from factory is pretty much fully optimized and fun as hell as is. You can go FBO/Cammed with a tune and probably get close around 500 WHP N/A but that's gonna be a lot of moolah and the price for the power you get prob wouldn't be worth TBH. As for supercharger kits they are extremely expensive and without any engine work done I think only 6-8 pounds of boost can be safe on a stock 392 but that's prob better than the FBO/cam route. Like I said tho I don't think it's worth messing with these cars they are fun as hell stock.
You obviously haven't ridden in an 850hp Scat Pack yet lol
 

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Oh yeah, I agree. 500HP now a days is a LOT more than the "old" days. Thje 8-speed makes it all the better.
 

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Save your cash on the CAI and Cat Back. They have an active exhaust lock kit if you like more in & out of the cabin noise, the MFR-1 I think, but its about making more noise and no power increase.

You are not going to get 50HP on the cheap and to see who's BS-ing and who is not, put your car on a Dyno now as-is for the base line and check again after the mods. Its $60.00 for three pulls near me. Some want $200.00, shop around. Use the same dyno after the mods. While your there interview the operator as to what he has seen. Even before mods you can do this.

A tune will net maybe 15HP if you are very lucky but perk the car up with a more sensitive throttle, higher shift points that are firmer and quicker, not to mention the fuel mix and spark adjustments that will require you to run 91-93 octane accordine to your area.

Nothing short of a Cam change is going to net you anything you can really feel HP wise. And when you start that stuff unless your finances are pretty good, you might want to consider if you are going to keep the car or trade it in a few.
You don't get a return on cam and blower mods. Forget about headers unless you are making serious boost and by then you will be into a forged rotating assembly.

Both my daily drivers are FI but I decided before hand I'll not be trading any more. A 2005 & 2013.
 

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Save your cash on the CAI and Cat Back. They have an active exhaust lock kit if you like more in & out of the cabin noise, the MFR-1 I think, but its about making more noise and no power increase.

You are not going to get 50HP on the cheap and to see who's BS-ing and who is not, put your car on a Dyno now as-is for the base line and check again after the mods. Its $60.00 for three pulls near me. Some want $200.00, shop around. Use the same dyno after the mods. While your there interview the operator as to what he has seen. Even before mods you can do this.

A tune will net maybe 15HP if you are very lucky but perk the car up with a more sensitive throttle, higher shift points that are firmer and quicker, not to mention the fuel mix and spark adjustments that will require you to run 91-93 octane accordine to your area.

Nothing short of a Cam change is going to net you anything you can really feel HP wise. And when you start that stuff unless your finances are pretty good, you might want to consider if you are going to keep the car or trade it in a few.
You don't get a return on cam and blower mods. Forget about headers unless you are making serious boost and by then you will be into a forged rotating assembly.

Both my daily drivers are FI but I decided before hand I'll not be trading any more. A 2005 & 2013.
Actually I would go for a CAI. The JLT Series 2 is very nice, keeps the temps down and sounds great. Slightly better than stock sound from underneath the hood.
 

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As per different people replies here over a years with pre-mods and after measurements, the only way to get 50-100HP more, it to get the supercharger, which with all works around will be very expensive mod. But very efficient.
CAI and the exhaust are relatively cosmetics - great mod for improvement, sound and look, but not to gain significant power. And good proper tires - yes - as extra.
Good luck, anyway
 

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What about Nitros? I see kits online for less than $1,000 that advertise boosts of 75, 100, 125, or 150 hp (you pick) for the 392 6.4L.
Anyone have any experience with these kits for the new 392 6.4L?

 

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What 1/4 mile times are you running? If you are not in the high 11s, you don't need more power yet, you need more traction.
With good tires and good air, a 392 car should be able to get into the high 11s.
If you are running mid 12s, then power is not the problem.
 

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Any real felt and enjoyed power adder is just damn costly these days. Mercy if you don't pull your own wrenches a blower install labor costs close to as much as the blower in some shops. A Cam install may be as much or more because the heads come off.
A CAI and CatBack are Placebo's. More noise but not going anywhere any quicker.

If not real hardware I would can recommend a good Tune followed up with scan logs to the tuner for final calibrations. At least you experience real enhancements.

More sensitive throttle.
Sifting @5800 -6000 RPM instead of 5600.
Firmer & Quicker shifts.
A touch more power if the tuner set up spark timing and air/fuel ratios to run premium only.

Good Hunting
 

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What 1/4 mile times are you running? If you are not in the high 11s, you don't need more power yet, you need more traction.
With good tires and good air, a 392 car should be able to get into the high 11s.
If you are running mid 12s, then power is not the problem.
Therein lies the crux of the problem.
Lack of Traction with those little 245's for most 6.4L Scat Packs. Guess Dodge wanted people to have better burnout capabilities rather than car handling performance. Sales tactic.
 

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If you're going to mod for more speed from stock is not more hp is rear tires specially if race from a dig, I have a set of 20x10.5 w/ 305/35/20 gmax summer tire and it hooks great you will diffenely feel the power the 6.4 puts down from the launch, so far is been my best mod.
 

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Does anybody know the wheel and tire size limits for the 2015-2019 charger? Can you take Hellcat wheels and tires and place them on a scat pack without tire rub?

Anyone have trouble with uneven tire wear after putting on bigger wheels and tires. Thank you or any info.
 

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Does anybody know the wheel and tire size limits for the 2015-2019 charger? Can you take Hellcat wheels and tires and place them on a scat pack without tire rub?

Anyone have trouble with uneven tire wear after putting on bigger wheels and tires. Thank you or any info.
If a scat has the dynamics package it will come with the Hellcat's 20x9.5 forged wheels and P Zero 275/40/20 squared setup. So to answer your question yes hellcat wheels will fit but you can't get a 305 tire on those wheels safely so many people including hellcat owners opt for replica wheels that are wider and get a staggered setup. I have the factory dynamics/hellcat wheels with all seasons for Fall/Winter and for Spring/Summer I run factory reproductions FR73 demon reps with 275/40/20 front 315/35/20 rear Nitto 555g2 summer tires. The 315 Nitto's fit just fine in the rear and don't rub surprisingly (no spacer needed) car handles much better also compared to the stock wheels and tires. Pros and cons to both setups but in my experience the reps have more to like. Hope this info helps ya
 
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