[Nitemare]

Well fellas.. just when I thought all hope was lost, I located an SRT 400 miles away that is in-transit and due in within a week. As of tonight, I've already placed a $500 refundable deposit. But I'm looking for some insight. I did great with my 2013 Daytona deal, and I don't want to get ripped off on this.

It's a B5 Blue with:
Standard black nappa/alcantara
Red seatbelts
Nav package
Harman Kardon
Sunroof
Technology package (ACC, collision, etc)

MSRP is about $54,500. The best price I can get is through USAA & Truecar, $51,205 + tax & fees ($600 document fee - wow!). Truecar had other dealers priced about $2-3K cheaper, but they don't actually have any SRTs - practically nobody within 500 miles has stock of these, especially with every option I want.

At first the dealer didn't want to honor the price. They said a guy was wanting to pay sticker, but hadn't put a deposit down. I got angry and complained to USAA because they're supposed to honor that guarantee. After a second call to their manager/USAA dealer rep, they agreed to honor it and allow me to make a deposit since I'm out of state. Sounds like they were sort of off to a bad customer service start.

I'm awaiting trade details tomorrow morning. I'm $15,500 deep on my current loan and my car appraises anywhere from $23,000 to $27,000 depending on the website you use.

I want to get a $10,000 credit if possible, so I'm after $25.5K. Is this too low/high? It's a '13 fully loaded Daytona R&T with 27,250 miles. Unfortunately a few exterior cosmetic blemishes (small scratches) but that's it. Also has Mopar accessories as listed in my sig. I paid $28,200 + tax and fees for it when I got it a year ago with 13,000 miles.

Am I jumping the gun, or so far getting a decent deal? If they low-ball my trade, I'm backing out. I fear they may try this since I'm getting a USAA discount and the manager seemed displeased about it at first... but later allowed it. These cars are rare right now, and order banks are closed for a few months. I seriously can't find another like it anywhere. I expect to pay about $54,000 out the door, minus my trade after the loan is paid off (hopefully another $10,000 - so about $42-46K depending on trade).

Is the price decent? How should I approach the trade? I'd hate to lose a lot of money on it, especially since it's a fairly rare car too. Should I avoid buying this far due to post-purchase support? I feel like dealers don't care unless you bought it from them. I'm not driving 400 miles until I can walk in and out of the dealer in 20 minutes with my car. I don't haggle on their turf. Maybe the deposit has put me at a slight disadvantage, but at least I know the car is mine if I want it.

 

[drsvelte]

I think your biggest problem will be trying to get $25.5K on the trade. I looked at KBB and Edmunds and I get around $23K give or take a little (I may have overlooked some options you have). Plus you're trying to get them to commit sight unseen - that'll be tough.

Good Luck!

 

[Nitemare]

I plan on referencing some of the higher sites, such as NADA Guides, and mentioning stuff I've done such as adding the SRT spoiler, Mopar accessories, and having the map updated. Anything I can do to push it... but it has the leather performance alcantara seats, sunroof, Beats, navigation, and backup camera... think it's every option you can get on a Road and Track model.

 

[frank1966]

From my experience dealerships do not care about options, its the blue book value for the model + low balled. You are much better off selling it on ebay.

 

[Nitemare]

To my surprise, I just got it appraised at CarMax and they offered $25,000! Not too bad considering I paid $28,200 a year ago and added 15K miles. If I take this, I'll lose some tax trade credit, so I'll have to get the dealer to at least offer $23,000 to make it even. Obviously I'll try to get them to match, but at least I have a good offer to fall back on (provided I get the new car within a week) if they want to screw me by letting me drive 400 miles without a solid trade offer, then lowball me when I am there with my pants down...

 

[rob-2]

Seems pretty good for the time of year. You can probably take 1k off the price this fall but your trade in from Carmax is going to change.

 

[Ddaddy]

Do you have the financial resources to put up the $9500 you will on your current car net from CarMax? If so, then just do a cash deal with the Dealer and sell your current car to CarMax to get it back.

Don't give the dealer any leverage if you can avoid it.

 

[Nitemare]

Do you have the financial resources to put up the $9500 you will on your current car net from CarMax? If so, then just do a cash deal with the Dealer and sell your current car to CarMax to get it back.

Don't give the dealer any leverage if you can avoid it.

I was pre-approved by USAA for $50,000 when I asked for 45K, but with tax this deal is going to run me just over $55,000... so I could do a down payment with a credit card and then use the money from CarMax to pay that off. But, that's hoping the car comes in as expected and I can buy it before my CarMax appraisal expires in a week.

I could ask USAA to raise the loan slightly, but I also plan to check out what the dealer can offer finance-wise. USAA offered 3.75% for a 60 month and 4.50% for a 72 month. I really want to be around 2%-2.5% as my credit score is above 750, but I have a limited credit history as I'm only 21.

If the dealer can offer me $23,000 trade, I'll take it so I don't have to have two vehicles driven back, pay for both their gas, plus going to CarMax and then waiting for payment to process... same result so might as well take the easiest route, or even come out better if the dealer will go higher.

It's been like pulling teeth getting ahold of people at this dealership. Even my salesman was 6 hours late calling me today - said this is a very busy time and he won't have a day off for the rest of the month. He seems genuine, young, nervous/inexperienced over the phone, so I have hope this'll go smooth. But I even struggled for hours getting through to finance until a receptionist actually gave my info to them so I could get questions answered. They're either really busy and don't care since the car isn't there yet, or don't want me buying this car for the deal I'm getting.

Does anyone know if there is a way to track the car as it moves to the dealership? They're expecting more trucks tomorrow, and if not then, he said it should be there by Tuesday or Wednesday. The build date was April 9th, PSP (preferred ship) 3rd week of May, and estimated ship was May 12th... all the info I have so far from the build sheet as of May 21st. I thought he told me it was on its way but how can they know for certain?

 

[Ddaddy]

So, you are willing to lose $2k because it's an inconvenience to drive back to CarMax and wait for the check to clear?

Wow.

 

[Nitemare]

So, you are willing to lose $2k because it's an inconvenience to drive back to CarMax and wait for the check to clear?

Wow.

No no! Doing a trade allows me to gain a tax credit towards my new vehicle. If the dealer offers at least $23,325~, my savings from taxes will equal the $2,000 extra CarMax would offer. Anything more from the dealer would be even better!

 

[06Daytona]

Dealers make most of their money on used cars. There is no way in hell they are going to give you $23k on a car that bluebooks at $25k. My guess is you will get maybe a $20k offer. They know you will be driving a long way and don't want to leave without the SRT. If you drive there without a firm deal on the Daytona, you are so screwed. Is this your first car purchase? Don't be naive. Sell you car to Carmax it sounds like that is a great deal for it. Get a friend to drive you there for the SRT.

20 minutes? LOL! You'll be there at least 3-4 hours.

 

[rob-2]

Man I got 0%. Get the dealer to hook you up. Worth 6k in interest!

 

[Nitemare]

Man I got 0%. Get the dealer to hook you up. Worth 6k in interest!

Nice! What was the loan term, and how is your credit?

Dealers make most of their money on used cars. There is no way in hell they are going to give you $23k on a car that bluebooks at $25k. My guess is you will get maybe a $20k offer. They know you will be driving a long way and don't want to leave without the SRT. If you drive there without a firm deal on the Daytona, you are so screwed. Is this your first car purchase? Don't be naive. Sell you car to Carmax it sounds like that is a great deal for it. Get a friend to drive you there for the SRT.

20 minutes? LOL! You'll be there at least 3-4 hours.

Like I said a local dealer offered 23 when I wanted to order there, and said they'd do even a little better if needed. This dealer has promised at least 22 and said it will likely go up when they actually see the vehicle. I can't blame them for that, but it's a doorway to screw me. I'm not selling the car to CarMax until I know for certain the SRT is mine. If something happens, I no longer have a car! Plus I can drive the Daytona to get the new car and have my girlfriend drive it back. CarMax is fine with the extra miles.

And yes, 20-30 minutes is possible... When I bought the Daytona, I had everything prearranged before even going to the dealer (2 and a half hours away). I walked up to the door and was given the keys before even getting inside, test drove immediately, gave them my info including proof of insurance for the vehicle upon return along with the USAA dealer check, signed my name a few times and was gone just like that my friend. I don't play the 3-4 hour crap like most people do. Having a trade will make the process a little longer but that may not even be relevant if they can't match the deal.

They're already making next to nothing on the car. They need my trade to recoup it somewhat - but I'm not getting taken advantage of.

 

[rob-2]

72 months, 0 down. My credit is very good. But they would have done this for 680+

Get the deal done in writing before you travel. You can have a clause that protects both in the event either car is misrepresented.

My deal was rather special as that offer wasn't to apply to SRTs but my dealer asked for some help from Chrysler capital to make the sale.

 

[Nitemare]

72 months, 0 down. My credit is very good. But they would have done this for 680+

Get the deal done in writing before you travel. You can have a clause that protects both in the event either car is misrepresented.

My deal was rather special as that offer wasn't to apply to SRTs but my dealer asked for some help from Chrysler capital to make the sale.

That would be freakin' amazing. I see 60 months 0% APR on Dodge.com as an incentive - any info on this I can find to show it to them and try to get the same done?

I called finance today and sent in my information. He doesn't want to actually request a loan from anywhere yet due to not having concrete numbers, but said he can easily finance me (guessing he saw my score from something once I sent in my info).

What do you recommend I try to get in writing? Best I can probably get is an email from the salesman, but I already have the price locked in via USAA's car buying service. Only thing left to negotiate is trade price (hard to do over phone... I haven't mentioned the CarMax offer and I may not until I get there). Don't think rates are really negotiable, though the finance manager makes it sound like they are?

 

[rob-2]

Well it's on the dealership to make that happen.

The paperwork you want to sign is a contract to buy with the terms you'll complete the deal.

 

[06Daytona]

Everything you do after the sale is also negotiable. ESPECIALLY finance rates. Finance rates are BIG income for the dealership. If they put you into a 4% loan, they get a kick-back from the lender. In fact, if you already have your own loan pre-approved and waiting, you could probably negotiate another $400-$500 off by letting them put you in a less than favorable loan, agreeing to keep it for 30 days and then refinance. I did that once as well. 0% Chrysler financing usually is not valid on the SRT. Anything extra you buy is also big income for them. A former girlfriend of mine was a finance manager for a car dealership and she worked primarily on commission (made well over $100k/year). Extended warranties are the biggest income producer followed by financing. The big income for the dealership comes after the sale in the finance office.

This is why I asked if this was your first purchase, you are amazingly naive for the high dollar new car you are purchasing.

If you do not negotiate your trade price before you go, you will get screwed. There is no reason why they can't give you an accurate trade quote over the phone with pictures by you and a description. Pending in-person inspection of course. I have pre-negotiated trades over the phone before with great results.

Good luck!

PS White Males are the most hated customer by car dealerships. They do their research, know what to pay, know what their trade is worth, and rarely buy extras. The number one best customer for dealerships? Indians (dot)! They typically buy ALL the extras and let the dealership put them into whatever loan is best for the dealership.

 

[Nitemare]

Everything you do after the sale is also negotiable. ESPECIALLY finance rates. Finance rates are BIG income for the dealership. If they put you into a 4% loan, they get a kick-back from the lender. In fact, if you already have your own loan pre-approved and waiting, you could probably negotiate another $400-$500 off by letting them put you in a less than favorable loan, agreeing to keep it for 30 days and then refinance. I did that once as well. 0% Chrysler financing usually is not valid on the SRT. Anything extra you buy is also big income for them. A former girlfriend of mine was a finance manager for a car dealership and she worked primarily on commission (made well over $100k/year). Extended warranties are the biggest income producer followed by financing. The big income for the dealership comes after the sale in the finance office.

This is why I asked if this was your first purchase, you are amazingly naive for the high dollar new car you are purchasing.

If you do not negotiate your trade price before you go, you will get screwed. There is no reason why they can't give you an accurate trade quote over the phone with pictures by you and a description. Pending in-person inspection of course. I have pre-negotiated trades over the phone before with great results.

Good luck!

PS White Males are the most hated customer by car dealerships. They do their research, know what to pay, know what their trade is worth, and rarely buy extras. The number one best customer for dealerships? Indians (dot)! They typically buy ALL the extras and let the dealership put them into whatever loan is best for the dealership.

Thanks for the info. I didn't have to deal with finance or trading my vehicle when I purchased the Daytona, so I didn't look into it very much. At first I didn't see how/why the dealer would get kick-back from higher APR's since that usually is up to the lender, but it makes sense... they work together, and can both earn more money.

I plan on using my USAA approval to barter. If they can't beat USAA by at least 1% (putting me at <3%), I'll likely tell them to screw off, or maybe play the I can't afford it game... something to make them try to work with me, but again, coming 400 miles, they already know how much I want that car.

I'll try to get them to give me a better trade value before going there. It's just been hell trying to talk to anyone because of how busy this weekend is for dealerships. I'm fine with the $25,000 CarMax is willing to give me - I just want to have my new vehicle first, just in case.

I have no plans to buy a warranty from them. If I even buy one, it'll be from one of the websites that has much been talked about on here. They have pretty decent pricing. I also have a buddy I deployed with who works at a dealer out of state. Maybe he can hook me up.

 

[thatfingguy]

Well fellas.. just when I thought all hope was lost, I located an SRT 400 miles away that is in-transit and due in within a week. As of tonight, I've already placed a $500 refundable deposit. But I'm looking for some insight. I did great with my 2013 Daytona deal, and I don't want to get ripped off on this.

It's a B5 Blue with:
Standard black nappa/alcantara
Red seatbelts
Nav package
Harman Kardon
Sunroof
Technology package (ACC, collision, etc)

MSRP is about $54,500. The best price I can get is through USAA & Truecar, $51,205 + tax & fees ($600 document fee - wow!). Truecar had other dealers priced about $2-3K cheaper, but they don't actually have any SRTs - practically nobody within 500 miles has stock of these, especially with every option I want.

At first the dealer didn't want to honor the price. They said a guy was wanting to pay sticker, but hadn't put a deposit down. I got angry and complained to USAA because they're supposed to honor that guarantee. After a second call to their manager/USAA dealer rep, they agreed to honor it and allow me to make a deposit since I'm out of state. Sounds like they were sort of off to a bad customer service start.

I'm awaiting trade details tomorrow morning. I'm $15,500 deep on my current loan and my car appraises anywhere from $23,000 to $27,000 depending on the website you use.

I want to get a $10,000 credit if possible, so I'm after $25.5K. Is this too low/high? It's a '13 fully loaded Daytona R&T with 27,250 miles. Unfortunately a few exterior cosmetic blemishes (small scratches) but that's it. Also has Mopar accessories as listed in my sig. I paid $28,200 + tax and fees for it when I got it a year ago with 13,000 miles.

Am I jumping the gun, or so far getting a decent deal? If they low-ball my trade, I'm backing out. I fear they may try this since I'm getting a USAA discount and the manager seemed displeased about it at first... but later allowed it. These cars are rare right now, and order banks are closed for a few months. I seriously can't find another like it anywhere. I expect to pay about $54,000 out the door, minus my trade after the loan is paid off (hopefully another $10,000 - so about $42-46K depending on trade).

Is the price decent? How should I approach the trade? I'd hate to lose a lot of money on it, especially since it's a fairly rare car too. Should I avoid buying this far due to post-purchase support? I feel like dealers don't care unless you bought it from them. I'm not driving 400 miles until I can walk in and out of the dealer in 20 minutes with my car. I don't haggle on their turf. Maybe the deposit has put me at a slight disadvantage, but at least I know the car is mine if I want it.

I went through USAA for my SRT 392 for the same exact price. It's a great deal since a lot of dealerships are marking these cars up to $55-60k.

It sounds like both of our cars were built in the same batch because mine is currently in transit to Oregon, and supposed to arrive next week.

Just keep doing research to try and get the price you want for your trade in, and stay firm on an offer. It may be hard because the USAA price is pretty much friends and family pricing, where employee pricing is the only thing lower.

 

[rob-2]

They had 6.3k market adjustment on mine.

I never talk sticker, and work off that. You tell them something much lower then you want to settle on.

Fact is most dealers take market adjustment as hit and miss. They know a sucker when they see one.

With limited production now it will make this all harder of course

If you don't have to buy now, wait. Find a high volume dealer and buy between the 10-14. Walk into their sales room and look at their sales figure vs target. They are willing to take a massive hit to make their figures by the 16th to lock in profits for the rest of the month.