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2014 Dodge Charger Pursuit AWD 5.7 V8
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Had this code C1464 and the service awd light come on recently on my 2014 5.7 awd charger. Its cold here, 16f, etc, all the time, so awd is on alot. I cant find alot on this code in particular for my specific model, but it goes away after restarting the car, but will come back few min later. Clear it and it also comes back. I believe it said front axle disconnect control circuit low. It did not say open so it seems it might not be as simple as a cut wire. Also get the code C147B, front axle disconnect sensor circuit performance. Anyone have an idea of where to start diagnosing, e.g fuses and relays.
 

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Obsolete:
Possibly you have a failing front axle disconnect. Can you verify if the AWD is engaging? How many miles on the car?

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Obsolete:
Possibly you have a failing front axle disconnect. Can you verify if the AWD is engaging? How many miles on the car?

Don
Its around 85k mi, it will certainly engage awd when first started as i can floor it with traction off and get little to no wheel spin, vs after it turns it off and says service awd i floor it and spin the rears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I also should note, when the awd service light comes on seems random. Sometimes the first few minutes i start it, it comes on, and other times i can do 20 minutes of highway driving and it does not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Actually now I also get the code C147B with the other code C1464, C147B says front axle disconnect sensor circuit performance.
 

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I would inspect the disconnect along with it's associated harness. One fellow also found that the actuator fork was worn, and had to be replaced.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Update: Solved the issue. I decided to take a look at the front axle disconnector device, its the electronic part that has a metal bar that it pushes into some button thing in the front diff to engage awd. Turns out it had a dead diode in it, so I replaced it, more specifically I bypassed it with a new one, and it fixed the awd, it works now and no codes. It was diode d2, 1n4007, used an ohm meter to test. As to why it burned out, who knows, hopefully it was a faulty diode, otherwise it may come back and il have to replace the entire unit at least.
292583
292582
 

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Thanks for returning to advise how things worked out. 1N4007 diodes are very common in my hobby of ham radio. Crazy to think a $150 part can be hobbled by a .15 diode.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Update again: Welp, the problem returned. I had awd functioning normally for a few weeks after the initial repair, but now it again is no longer functioning and is giving me the Service AWD light along with the active codes U0114-00: Lost communication with final drive control module, and U0102-00 Lost communication with transfer case control module / AWD.

I checked the transfer case control module for any obvious issues, but alas there were no visible damaged components, along with the wiring and connector. Also re-checked the axle disconnect I fixed previously, but it still worked when given power and appropriate signal with a 12 volt power supply, and the wiring harness and connector to it was clean looking too. No idea why or where else to check thus far.
 

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That stinks! So, the actuator is still working. Since I have not done this, have you been able to verify that the mechanical parts inside the axle that the actuator moves are intact and doing their job?

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That stinks! So, the actuator is still working. Since I have not done this, have you been able to verify that the mechanical parts inside the axle that the actuator moves are intact and doing their job?

Don
I did not verify that, but i did check the actuator both connected to the car and on my bench with power supply. When i gave it power and signal, i got it to actuate its pin. But when i plugged it into the car, i left it hanging so i could see if it pushed the pin out, then i used my tazer to force rwd and awd, and nothing happened, also usually would push pin out when id start car, but it did nothing. I do not believe there is a mechanical issue since it worked up until the electric side stopped functioning. Its a loss of communication issue which is such a pain, there could be a tiny break in the harness somewhere where it goes through maybe the firewall, not sure, or the module for transfer case could be dead, but no clue how i should test besides manually testing each wire on the harness or getting a new module.
 

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OK:
Have you done a battery reset lately? I admit that its a long shot, but it does not cost anything. I don't know if that function is controlled buy its own module, or out of another like an FCM, PCM etc.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh yeah, sadly also already did tried that, removed negative terminal on batt, tried starting, moving seat, then reconnected. Still there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The context of the issue re-appearing was I was messing with the underhood lamp that was ripped off by the previous owner, and the wires shorted, blowing the 10amp underhood lamp fuse. Coincidentally right when I go to restart the car, the service awd message had popped back up, after a couple of weeks of not being an issue following the previous fix. I am wondering if a short like that could have messed something up upstream somehow.
 

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My preference is to remove the negative terminal, depress brake pedal for 30 seconds, and then reconnect and see what you have. It take a bit of time to drain off the stored energy that is there to fire the airbags in the case of a very damaging event.
I could see an event like you describe causing an electrical glitch.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My preference is to remove the negative terminal, depress brake pedal for 30 seconds, and then reconnect and see what you have. It take a bit of time to drain off the stored energy that is there to fire the airbags in the case of a very damaging event.
I could see an event like you describe causing an electrical glitch.

Don
I gave that a shot just now, still no change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Im getting to the point where im gonna just wire a switch to the locker and run it into the cabin so i can have a real awd control option like a truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Im getting to the point where im gonna just wire a switch to the locker and run it into the cabin so i can have a real awd control option like a truck.
Actually this would not work. I read more about it and found there is also a clutch pack in the transfer case that is controlled by a pwm electromagnet or similar, allowing for varried torque split front and rear. So engaging the from axle manually would not be enough in theory to manually run awd. I tried by wiring up the front axle locker and after engaging it, nothing seemed to change, i could hear a click, but i could still floor it and spin the rears only, so it is clear the clutch pack is fully disengaged when the dtcm is having issues. Also it might not be ideal for the awd system to manually bypass the dtcm since it also i believe monitors the transfer case temps and varies how engaged awd is, and does the same for when it is on dry pavement, where it would bind the awd up normally if locked. Best bet for awd override would be to use the tazer and bind a steering wheel button for it. I feel that it would be possible to also use the tazers mini USB port to send a command specifically for awd rwd toggle using a micro controller and a switch, allowing for a custom switch, but I have yet to receive email back about whether that is possible over the usb interface.
 

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Thanks for returning to advise how things worked out. 1N4007 diodes are very common in my hobby of ham radio. Crazy to think a $150 part can be hobbled by a .15 diode.

Don
Seems right on par for the times to me? $0.15 part the somebody will easily paid $300-$500 for it the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I took a quick look inside the transfer case control module/final drive control module and didnt see any blatent issues like corrosion or blown over currented components. I think I will just buy a new one, although I am not sure whether it needs programming or not. Pic is of witech saying the dtcm isnt responding, couldnt run any tests therefore. Might have to give in and take to the dealer since they have firmware to flash, additionally may just have them deal with the wiring harness check as i was getting odd results while check what the service manual said.
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