I thought about it, but I only paid $29,200 for the Daytona with Nav and sun roof option. I wanted cloth seats, no leather and I did not want all the extra weight that comes with the power stuff. I really was looking for a Daytona without the sun roof but could not find one.Lots of great information here. Thanks for posting it.
My question is: Considering the cost and effort you put in, would you consider buying an SRT8, SRT core, or SuperBee model instead of doing all of this on your R/T?
CNC Heads with big valves IMO are a waste of money. There are a few folks with 2009+ Eagle that got the P/P Heads and some with what they call the Big Valve along with the Cam install. To say the least they were disappointed in the results and agree that they were a waste of money. WRT TCM, I have a spare in the garage that I was planning to get Arrington to program. However, I rarely go over 4500 rpms and when I go WOT with sport mode I can hit 6000 rpms without going into limp mode. That is right at the limit for 2nd gear 60 mph with the 3.92. Just before I ordered the TCM a friend suggested that I get 275/45/20's for the rear instead of my 275/40's. The 45's are 29.7" tall and would let me hit 61 mph before 3rd gear hits.Did you think of a CNC heads with big valves?
If the TCM was reprogrammed, any chance that 3.92diff will let you shift to 60mph in 2nd?
Just asking because I'm planning to do the same on my car but with SRT392 parts..
Thanks about the head.. That is going to save me some money to use on something else...CNC Heads with big valves IMO are a waste of money. There are a few folks with 2009+ Eagle that got the P/P Heads and some with what they call the Big Valve along with the Cam install. To say the least they were disappointed in the results and agree that they were a waste of money. WRT TCM, I have a spare in the garage that I was planning to get Arrington to program. However, I rarely go over 4500 rpms and when I go WOT with sport mode I can hit 6000 rpms without going into limp mode. That is right at the limit for 2nd gear 60 mph with the 3.92. Just before I ordered the TCM a friend suggested that I get 275/45/20's for the rear instead of my 275/40's. The 45's are 29.7" tall and would let me hit 61 mph before 3rd gear hits.
Here is a post by someone on the Challenger side regarding Heads and the Eagle:
"Cylinder heads......... All this hoopla about CNC big valve heads are about the biggest waste of money you could spend. All said and done..... 3-4K? You need to turn more RPM to take advantage of those big valves, are you willing to spin that stock bottom end 7K? And how about all that bottom end torque you just lost......
The stock 5.7 Eagle heads (2009 and up) flow right at the 300 CFM mark @ .600-.625 lift. This is enough airflow to support 600 horsepower. 6.1 heads flow roughly the same number, even with the bigger valve. If you are looking for every ounce of power then sure, having all the ports flow identical numbers is awesome, but at what price? The stock ports flow plus or minus 3% due to modern casting techniques,(lost mold) more than acceptable to any serious racer. Hell, back before continuous five axis CNC mills, it was all done by hand, 3% between ports would have been awesome. My proof? Comp cams new MDS piece and Kooks long tube headers, no other mods except for the tune, made a gain of 108 hp on a 5.7.
As the valve, (intake for this example) comes off the seat, it opens to .100 then to .200 then .300 and so on, until it hits maximum lift, say .600. Now the valve starts to close, it sees .500 then .400 then .300 until it closes on the seat again. So the intake valve actually saw .300, .400, .500 twice, once while opening and once while closing. It only saw max lift once, .600. It is here (CFM @ max lift) where many judge a cylinder heads potential. They are correct, maximum CFM will dictate how much horsepower your gonna make, it takes a certain CFM to make a certain amount of horsepower.
However, if port flow is weak in the mid range, say .300 to .400 the motor would be an absolute dog until you get the RPM's up to where you can start using all that air. Any port (we're talking intake here) you can get in the low to mid 200's @ .300 to .400 lift is gonna have a nice fat powerband, just like the 5.7 has. I would assume the average maximum flow numbers for the Eagle (300 CFM @.600) were a fringe benefit of having the port work in the midrange area. To use the ports full potential, you would be talking in the 7,000+ rpm range. The camshaft profile would fall flat on it's face waaay before that kind of rpm. The motor, (stock anyways) could never reach that level
So the point I am trying to make is this, the heads (5.7 Eagle's) can flow enough air to make roughly 600 horsepower without touching them. Why on earth would you throw away hard earned money on a set of CNC heads with flow characteristics that you will never use.... those big valves and flow numbers kill low end power. Sure it flows 340 CFM, but what is the port velocity? Air speed... gotta have it."
With the website calculator it is confirming, the speed will drop to 45mph with 3.55, 43mph with 3.73 and 41mph with 3.92, and the best one to get 60mph in 2nd is the stock 2.62diffPorting the 392 intake from what I hear is not worth it. There is not much to take off with this manifold like a P/P 6.1L. There is a shop in NY that does it but I have not seen any results other than what they claim. One guy say's he can feel the diff but I question how much for the price. The 6.4 SRV intake works great on these 5.7L Hemi's right out of the box. Here is a gear/speed calculator that I use. It is accurate as heck based on my data logs.
I use 5900 rpms as the maximum rpms for the stock TCM in sport mode and the 2.19 second gear ratio. Tire diameter is 28.7 for the 275/40/20. IMO the best gear is the 3.55 and if you have the $$ the 3.73. BNFY in Ohio is the only place that I know of that sells the 3.55. Actually they can do just about any Getrag diff. POC is Eric and they work mainly on LX platforms. If I could do it again I would have got the 3.55. If I keep the ride and put on a SC I will definitely get them. It is just the diff change out once the axles and stuff is installed.
The extra size P/P TB unless you get a very aggressive Cam will only get you a few HP. The 5.7L and 6.4L have the same TB. If anything you could get Fastman to P/P the one you have.
TKS, If I did not have the 3.92 rear there would be a debate on straight line performance but overall after driving a new SRT, they are the best ride quality car in the Dodge lineup IMO.
I live in Knoxville TN. LOL If you pay the wheel tax and renew the tags they do not care what you drive! I did not get any CEL lights with either the JBA Shorties or the ARH LT's. Both companies make great high flow cats.Subscribed...
This is a great thread, however, I do have one question...
Do you have emission testing and inspection where you live, and if you do are there any issues or CEL lights coming on.
I started my modding with a goal of 400+rwhp. Made several errors along the way but it was fun.This post is great, it gives me more to think about for down the road. Once I get the intake, T-Stat, DiabloSport and exhaust done I am basically done with the "easy" stuff. From there, I'll have to do my homework to get the best bang for the buck. The pre-Eagle 5.7's could really get up there in power as well, it just takes some planning. I'm hoping to put down 400+ when it's all said and done.
I must of not found any cheap Superbees. I got mine in October for 48k. Obviously because it was fully loaded and all that, but even the base price 44k, were you referring to used ones?I thought about it, but I only paid $29,200 for the Daytona with Nav and sun roof option. I wanted cloth seats, no leather and I did not want all the extra weight that comes with the power stuff. I really was looking for a Daytona without the sun roof but could not find one.
If I had purchased a SuperBee I could have just changed out the Getrag Diff or less than $900 and had the same power. I just think I would have started modding that like I did the Daytona. I like to work on cars so having one in the driveway without doing anything to it is no fun. The SuperBee with a 3.55 differential swapped out would be sweet and for someone that does not want to mess around with installations IMO that is the best route to go. They are selling dirt cheap now with the 2015's just around the corner.