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I have a 2009 Dodge Charger SXT 3.5L V6. It has been sitting for almost 3 years in a family members yard while I went thru a difficult time. At some point during the last three years my family member lost the key fob and was unable to start it, resulting in the battery dying so I do not know exactly how long a period the vehicle was without power. I have been working on it now for the last two weeks and I really need some fresh input. I am going to be as detailed as I can, but I will answer any questions in case I do not provide enough information for a diagnosis.

I am also aware (and have been thru numerous times) of the How do I...... EVERYTHING thread. I have also exhausted every search string I can think of both on Google and These Forums. But like I say, I need a fresh brain that knows more than I do.

Begin:
  • Checked Engine Compartment for nests, etc.
  • Topped up the oil with fresh oil (did not overfill)
  • Added fresh gasoline, vastly diluting what stale gas was there (It's now at half a tank; was previously nearly empty)

*** Attached Jumper Cables & Tried to start with my spare key fob. Starter would engage but Engine did not fire.

  • Replaced Battery with a non AGM battery (Was told by Dodge Mechanics @ Dealership this was fine)
  • Switched electrical Relays in fuse box under the hood to see if one was burnt out (results still the same; starter engages but no ignition just farts)
  • Can Hear the Fuel pump Prime (Rear Seat currently removed in case access is needed)
  • Checked every fuse/relay related to the Fuel System and Ignition, Front & Back, all seem good. (Starter turns over, get the odd sputter like there is some spark but no ignition and can smell gas from tailpipe; Leads me to believe Fuel Pump and Fuel Relay are in working order).
  • Cleaned the IAP sensor and used an Om meter to verify current.
  • Hooked up OBDII WiFi Adapter, read codes from and received P0112 (Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 Circuit Low Bank 1; Doesn't seem to be a huge issue from what I've read)
    • All values when hooked up to DashCMD via WiFi OBDII Link appear to be within range, including Timing.
  • No cluster lights alerting to any problem (Including the Red Dot in the Fuel Gauge)
I think this about covers it to date. I will update as I try anything new, any insight you could share would be AMAZING!

Thank you for taking the time to read this!
 

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This sounds like stale gas to me. You can add as much fresh gas on top of it as you want, that isn't going to purge the three-year-old E10 that's gumming up the works.

OTOH, if it were stale gas, it should have run on starter fluid. As much prep as you've done, I'm assuming you've tried that.

At this point, maybe it's flooded. You could try cranking it with your foot to the floor for a few seconds, then take your foot off the gas and try starting it again. And I'd definitely throw in a bottle of Sta-Bil red, and/or a bottle of Sta-Bil 360.
 

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This sounds like stale gas to me. You can add as much fresh gas on top of it as you want, that isn't going to purge the three-year-old E10 that's gumming up the works.

OTOH, if it were stale gas, it should have run on starter fluid. As much prep as you've done, I'm assuming you've tried that.

At this point, maybe it's flooded. You could try cranking it with your foot to the floor for a few seconds, then take your foot off the gas and try starting it again. And I'd definitely throw in a bottle of Sta-Bil red, and/or a bottle of Sta-Bil 360.
^True^ And consider this... the tank was nearly empty for three years, so all the air in that tank has had the moisture in it condense out and turn into water which then sinks to the bottom of the tank, since fuel will float on water. All this water in the tank, if it is a steel tank, has begun to rust and the rusty water/fuel mixture is now being sucked thru a filter that may or may not be totally clogged by now. This is why it is imperative that if storing a vehicle for any length of time, it is better to have the tank full of treated fuel that it is to store it with the tank nearly empty. You ought to see what a nearly empty tank on a 1988 Kawasaki Concours looks like after a couple of years in storage. In some cases the water in there eats holes right thru the bottom of the tank!

If this was my car I'd begin by removing the fuel tank and drain it, rinse it out and maybe even treat the inside of the tank with something like POR15. At the very least inspect the inside of the tank with a borescope to evaluate the rust content. I really don't know what the tank is made out of, but if it is plastic or stainless or aluminium, just dump the fuel and flush the line up to the fuel rail, replace the filter and maybe pull the injectors. They are all probably clogged by now too. Because even if you do get it running OK now, the next time you fill the tank all the way up, all that surface rust on the upper part of the tank that wasn't submerged will dissolve into the fresh fuel and you'll be back in the same situation again with a clogged filter and/or injectors and contaminated fuel.

Good luck.
 
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