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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I swapped out my low beam lamps for 35 watt HID's.
They worked OK but their performance was intermittent with the drivers side lamp flickering and sometimes not coming on right away so I would have to turn the headlights on / off a couple of times to finally get the stupid thing to stay on.
So I ordered an HID relay kit and installation is pretty straight forward. I'm using the passenger side low beam headlight connector as my trigger and battery power comes from the red power lug next to the relay box under the hood.
The HID's work perfect now, both come on at the same time and there is no flicker what-so-ever, as long as the engine is OFF.

The issue I have is as soon as I start the engine, the relay starts chattering and won't stay closed. As you can imagine my HID's both flash, or turn on/off intermittently, or won't turn on at-all.

Is the new relay bad?
Is the trigger circuit from the headlight system that under powered or dirty that when the engine is running it can't hold the relay closed?
I pulled the fuse from the harness to take the battery out of the equation and started the car and the relay still does't stay closed, so I don't think the interference is coming from there.
I'm going to pick-up a new relay and try that, but if the replay were bad I would think it wouldn't work even when the engine is off.

Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,
 

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Bump this thread later, hopefully more people will be on to help you.
 

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I swapped out my low beam lamps for 35 watt HID's.
They worked OK but their performance was intermittent with the drivers side lamp flickering and sometimes not coming on right away so I would have to turn the headlights on / off a couple of times to finally get the stupid thing to stay on.
So I ordered an HID relay kit and installation is pretty straight forward. I'm using the passenger side low beam headlight connector as my trigger and battery power comes from the red power lug next to the relay box under the hood.
The HID's work perfect now, both come on at the same time and there is no flicker what-so-ever, as long as the engine is OFF.

The issue I have is as soon as I start the engine, the relay starts chattering and won't stay closed. As you can imagine my HID's both flash, or turn on/off intermittently, or won't turn on at-all.

Is the new relay bad?
Is the trigger circuit from the headlight system that under powered or dirty that when the engine is running it can't hold the relay closed?
I pulled the fuse from the harness to take the battery out of the equation and started the car and the relay still does't stay closed, so I don't think the interference is coming from there.
I'm going to pick-up a new relay and try that, but if the replay were bad I would think it wouldn't work even when the engine is off.

Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,
You need an anti-flicker relay with a capacitor added, you can either buy a harness that has it already (http://www.automotivelightstore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=173 has one) or add the capacitor yourself if you are a little bit handy with this stuff (it is 470uF rated above 25V). You can see it in the picture in the link above, small blue thing lower right of pic. Make sure you connect it the right polarity, else it will literally blow (the end will pop out and it is trashed). They are cheap, buy a few just in case.

There are many posts here on this subject, try a search with "flicker".
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It looks like in the picture of the other relay harness, that the cap is actually part of the relay itself.
Since I already bought a harness, I wonder if the cap/relay could be purchased seperatly and just swapped into my existing relay harness. If the capacitor is on the trigger side to stabolize the input and hold the relay shut, that would fix my problem. If the capacitor is on the output side just to fix HID flicker, which I don't have when the car is off, then I don't think it will change anything. As long as the relay stay's closed, the HIDs don't flicker. When the car is running, if I put my hand on the relay I can feel it chattering open/closed.
I also noticed when I pulled my relay so I could match it to a new one, the relay is a 4 post instead of the standard 5 post I have seen in most of the diagrams, which I'm sure will make finding a replacment that much more fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I called AAC yesterday and ordered their relay with the built-in capacitor.
So I should know in 3 days when it shows up if that fixes my problem.

I'll update this thread when I know.

Thanks for the assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I added the relay from AAC with the capacitor and it helps, but I can still hear the relay chatter under the hood when the car is running once in awhile and I still have an issue with one of the HIDs not coming on all the time. It's usually the drivers side HID, but sometimes it's the passanger side HID that shuts down after running for about 5 - 10 seconds. It's interesting that it's usually just one side at a time that has the problem. One would think that with the relay harness it would be an all-or-nothing type thing. Maybe it's a poor ground to the relay connections on both sides. I have the relay harness grounded to the two grounding bolts behind the front fenders, one on each side. Of course the battery is in the trunk so running a dedicated ground is a pain.
 

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I came across this old thread while searching hid types b/c I forgot what size bulb my lows take.

Anyway, If you havnt figured this problem out yet and you have a standard relay harness, all you need is the cheap little radio shack cap.

For those that find this thread and who have purchased the HIDs and relay harness, dont buy the expensive aac thing bc you dont need it and it sounds like it doesnt work. I took a simple cap, plucked the relay, and connected across the trigger leads (ones specified in the photo) then poped the cap back on. I have been runing mine for 2 years without a hickup. In fact, I am going to be replacing my first bulb before the cap. I even had some sort of water in the fuze holder which cause it to melt and I have replaced that. Not the cap. If you can install these hids you can install the caps. Save the $35 unless you dont need a relay harness (maybe you dont with a 35w but I wasnt going to chance it with a 55w.)
 
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