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Discussion Starter #1
OK guys… sorry for the long post. You can read over the bolded stuff if it is easier. I am about $2,400 in on repairing my sick Charger and it is still not cured. I need some other ideas to attack this problem. Any advice would be appreciated.

Here are the car’s stats:
Stock 2007 Dodge Charger R/T with 5.7 liter Hemi
Roughly 83,000 miles when problem surfaced in the late fall of 2013

Recent repairs before this problem started:
- ignition switch (associated check engine light code - repaired at dealer)
- front/rear brakes and rotors replaced
- regular oil changes


In the fall I started feeling some sluggishness and a bit of engine vibration with raspy exhaust note when getting back on the throttle after coasting (to regulate speed) or taking foot completely off gas pedal during braking.

Early winter, car stalled traveling 35MPH after light braking and returning pressure back to the gas pedal to speed up. Lost power steering and braking. Local mechanic replaced spark plugs and boots and did a tune up ($750).

The next day, the car stalled at 50 MPH after light braking and returning pressure back to the gas pedal to speed up. Lost power steering and braking (not fun). Started the car right after and it was shaking and knocking. The red lighting bolt light was flashing on the instrument cluster. Called for a tow. Codes for bad throttle body & throttle control module that is paired with it. These items were replaced at a cost of $1600.

Afterwards, no more stalling, but car ran very rough and especially rough at 1500RPM (any gear). Local mechanic found a bad ignition coil and replaced it. Cost was about $80.

The car has not stalled again, but still has a bit of engine vibration with raspy exhaust note when getting back on the throttle after coasting to regulate speed or when taking foot completely off gas pedal during braking. This also happens sometimes when cruising at a steady speed. I can reproduce the problem every time I drive the car, though the mechanic can't (of course).

When I am not switching between 2nd-3rd-4th gears much, as you do in light traffic, the car is fine. When you start regulating speed by letting up on throttle or braking often, it happens when getting back on accelerator.

Interestingly, this issue WILL NOT MANIFEST WHEN IN SPORT SHIFT MODE! Also, when proceeding through the gears, shifting is smooth getting up to highway speed and slowing down from highway speed down to 1st gear (as on a highway with lights and not much traffic, for example).

A trip to the dealer scares me now since I'm already about $2,400 in on this. Maybe I should have brought it there to begin with?

If you read this far... THANK YOU!!!
- Pete
 

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You need to replace the camshaft position sensor and then if it still persists, do the crankshaft position sensor.

The camshaft position sensor is very simple to do yourself and will literally take you 10 minutes.


On the 5.7, the camshaft position sensor is located next to the thermostat housing




Unlock and disconnect electrical connector (4)
Remove bolt (3)
Remove sensor (1)
 

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I'm in a similar spot right now with my 06' R/T R&T

Car ran great til Friday night, on my way to gas station. The car dropped out of gear under heavy acceleration,(chime sounded, no lights on dash), for about a second then came back. Proceeded to the station and filled her up. Ran great the rest of the night. Next morning, run out to get coffee and donuts and it did the same thing, then it started to stumble at idle as I drove a little longer, then it stalled at a light. Started rite back up and drove home, stalled in driveway at idle.

So, after doing some research, I decided to:

1. Replace original battery, no change
2. Clean throttle body, no change
3. Replaced Cam Position Sensor, ran smoother until hard acceleration.
4. Replaced MAP Sensor, smooth as butter the rest of the night, until hard acceleration. The car still cuts out at what now seems to about 75% pedal travel and over 4000 RPMs. If I accelerate normally it ran great, even if I got to 4000 RPM with moderate pedal travel. Beginning to think it's the pedal sensor at this point.

Next morning, car ran like crap. Looks like I'll be changing Crank Position sensor next.
 

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I'm in a similar spot right now with my 06' R/T R&T

Car ran great til Friday night, on my way to gas station. The car dropped out of gear under heavy acceleration,(chime sounded, no lights on dash), for about a second then came back. Proceeded to the station and filled her up. Ran great the rest of the night. Next morning, run out to get coffee and donuts and it did the same thing, then it started to stumble at idle as I drove a little longer, then it stalled at a light. Started rite back up and drove home, stalled in driveway at idle.

So, after doing some research, I decided to:

1. Replace original battery, no change
2. Clean throttle body, no change
3. Replaced Cam Position Sensor, ran smoother until hard acceleration.
4. Replaced MAP Sensor, smooth as butter the rest of the night, until hard acceleration. The car still cuts out at what now seems to about 75% pedal travel and over 4000 RPMs. If I accelerate normally it ran great, even if I got to 4000 RPM with moderate pedal travel. Beginning to think it's the pedal sensor at this point.

Next morning, car ran like crap. Looks like I'll be changing Crank Position sensor next.
Have ye had your Transmission fluid checked?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ddaddy... I think a big clue is that the problem doesn't exist in sport shift / autostick mode. Wouldn't a bad crankshaft or camshaft position sensor still affect me in sport shift mode?

Last night, cruising along at about 50MPH I sensed the grumble from the engine. I nudged the shifter to the right to enter sport shift mode (display showed me I was in 5th gear) and the engine feel smoothed out immediately.

I did not change gears or shift into 5th - I was already in 5th and just entered the "I'll tell the computer what gear I'd like to be in" mode.

What is different in sport mode? MDS not active?

The senor swap may still be worth a shot.

Thanks,
- Pete
 

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373 Posts
You need to replace the camshaft position sensor and then if it still persists, do the crankshaft position sensor.

The camshaft position sensor is very simple to do yourself and will literally take you 10 minutes.


On the 5.7, the camshaft position sensor is located next to the thermostat housing




Unlock and disconnect electrical connector (4)
Remove bolt (3)
Remove sensor (1)
I second that..You can buy one for like $28 bucks.. Takes five minutes to replace. If it doesn't work..bring it back :)
 

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Have ye had your Transmission fluid checked?
Checked it last night, was a little over a half a court low (500 ml). After topping it off, still had the issue. Took it for a ride last night and made a couple stops, still with issues, then parked it for 12 hours. Today, like nothing ever happened. No codes active or stored and running like a champ. :werd:
 
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