I read that you replaced your front suspension with greasable parts a couple years ago. Were you able to locate greasable inner/outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arms? What other parts are greasable on our front suspensions? What I am attempting to do is make everything servicable as they were on cars 25 years ago. The issue is coming up with all the part numbers. I appreciate any feedback. Thank you for your time.
Hey Andy, just saw ur message. If you can remove bolts u can do the tear down yourself. The seals are the only thing that are sensative. I used a set if picks and a small flat head screw driver. As long as you are careful removing the seals you should be fine. The picks i used were a hook and a 90 degree angled pick.
Im pretty much settled in now, so trying to enjoy the island as much as I can. Its amazing with the amount of Chargers that are on the island.. Cant believe we dont have alot of M&Gs. Thanks for the welcome!
hey Andy - yea got it 3 weeks ago. so far got: exhaust, window tint, de-badged, mats. Have but not installed: CAI, 180 thermostat, 20x9 chrome repro wheels (gonna clear coat them with a black tinted clear to give them a black chrome look). Gonna run 275/45R20's in the rear - a little wider plus 1" taller - I like the old school forward raked look. On order: seat covers, catch can.
Give me a call when u get a chance - need to talk to you about suspension stuff. My number is 779-3810
Looks great. I am kicking myself. I got a lockpic for my MyGig radio to add front and rear cameras. That way I wouldn't bang my new chin spoiler from Mopwr. Worked great, but ran into an electrical problem and replaced my battery, alternator and starter. Without power, the programing for the front camera stopped (used to come on anytime I slowed to 8mph or less). Was going back to get it reset and stopped for a soda. Banged it on a snow back (ice really) and broke it. Good thing you don't have snow out there.
Nice ride. Didn't realize you were five-O. Heard they are going to remake the show. Your pics don't have the chin spoiler on yet, but nice rims. How much did you pay for and how much did the dept. pay for??
ya i've done many many cam installs so i know about the rockers. Whats up?
Personally i like inertia's products and service. I dont deal with fri but i have friends that do and they are also highly recommended.
Personally i'm running a spartan which i love however i see more valvetrain noise from spartans then i do sidewinders however i believe the spartan to still be a better cam for a base r/t build. If your gonna do heads and have headers i'd highly recommend a srt max with converter> That would be a monster but if you just do basic a spartan or spartan max. http://inertiamotorsports.com/camshafts.html
Cam wise i dont deal with that company so i dont know much about their product.
stage 1 - cam only , no tune needed but will help
stage 2 cam only , tune needed
stage 3 - headers needed, tune must, torque converter almost a must, heads a must
Prior to a cam purchase you'll need to know what the overall goal of the car is gonna be. Your gonna need cam a for mds, cam b for turbo, cam c for nitrous and cam d for stroker so you have to know the finished product prior to the cam purchase
I'm not much on the gear ratios, i have to be honest. I just know that a r/t with 17's and tire x is y ratio thats about it. obviously the taller the gear the higher the "theoritacal" top speed and longer it takes to get through the gear. Whereas a smaller gear will get you through the gears quicker. The problem you have to be careful with is our r/t's want are very very close to shifting to 4th gear stock in the quater. However with a cam you can increase rev limit and keep that from happening with stock gears. Otherwise you either have to let off in third or if you shift to fourth your shifting right at the end of the track and its worthless.