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#1 Old 01-26-2009, 04:24 PM
littlecharger
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3.5 water pump replacement

has anyone replaced their water pump by yourself yet? Tonight mine sprung a leak and I'm gonna tackle this job myself. I've got 57k on my 06 charger.
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#2 Old 01-26-2009, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlecharger View Post
has anyone replaced their water pump by yourself yet? Tonight mine sprung a leak and I'm gonna tackle this job myself. I've got 57k on my 06 charger.
oh my man, these suck. i've been a tech for 11 years and its one of my most feared projects. . now its harder in the old intrepids then the chargers but they still suck. It is timing chain driven. You'll have to remove the tensioner, timing chain, both cylinder head covers and the pump plus the drivebelt and some accesories. ITs a pain to get timing correct with this chain setup too and you'll need a couple special tools. I believe it calls for nine hours, let me check. also he chain goes through the inside of the block (intrepid wise it did at least) not just easily accesible once pulling the lower cover.
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#3 Old 01-26-2009, 06:51 PM
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Isn't 57K early to have a water pump fail?
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#4 Old 01-26-2009, 06:54 PM
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welllllllll, it depends on lots of things.
has someone been in the car and filled up the coolant with tap water instead of distilled water?
is the coolant contaminated?
has stop leak or additives been put in the coolant?
lots of things could contribute to the problem but 60k is a bit early but not unheard of.
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#5 Old 01-26-2009, 07:31 PM
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Do you recommend 3 year coolant change intervals if you drive less?
For example, I average 6K miles/year and I am approaching the 3rd year and would this help extending water pump life?
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#6 Old 01-26-2009, 07:36 PM
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check out the coolant info thread glhs put up. We put lots of recommendations in there. coolant needs to be checked not just replaced on mileage year time ranges. those are guidelines and peoples cars may need it prior to that.

The biggest thing is replacing all water with distilled water as soon as anyone gets in the motor or you flush it the first time. Distilled water contains no fluoride and will extend the life of the coolant a bit. then you check it for current, and mixture levels. all is described in that thread. its a good read.

But yes most water pump failures that i've seen are due to a lack of maintence or incorrect coolant issues.
(not to include caravans though. they have a known bad plastic impeller water pump that melts and falls apart. 3.3 and 3.8 caravans, early 2k year vehicles)
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#7 Old 01-26-2009, 07:39 PM
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ok, I've been working on it for about 1.5 hrs and I've got the coolant drained, serpentine belt off, timing cover off (that was a big PITA) now I'm staring at my timing chain "belt" tring to figure out how to get that off. Any suggestions?
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#8 Old 01-26-2009, 07:41 PM
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well first you have to line up cyl 1 to tdc on compression stroke. Then there is a timing chain tensioner ( i believe on the passenger side head). You also have to pull the intake off, and both cylinder head covers because you'll have to take the chain off the cams.
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#9 Old 01-26-2009, 07:47 PM
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3.5L ENGINE
The water pump on all models can be replaced without
discharging the air conditioning system.
WARNING: Do not remove pressure cap with the
system hot and under pressure because serious
burns from coolant can occur.
1. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
2. Remove accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
NOTE: The water pump is driven by the timing
belt.
3. Remove engine timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
4. Remove water pump mounting bolts (1). Note position of longer bolts for proper re-installation.
5. Remove water pump body (2) from engine.





TENSIONER PULLEY ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The tensioner pulley (1), bracket (3), and
pivot bolt (2) is serviced as an assembly.
1. Inspect pulley (1) for free movement. Replace if
pulley is loose, seized, or rough turning.
2. Inspect pulley bearing and seal. Replace if damaged.
3. Inspect pivot bolt (2) for free movement in assembly
housing. Replace assembly if seized or excessive
looseness.



CAUTION: The 3.5L is NOT a freewheeling engine. Therefore, loosen the valve train rocker assemblies
before servicing the timing drive.
1. Perform fuel pressure release procedure. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Remove both cylinder head covers and loosen the rocker arm assemblies (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the front timing belt cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).
5. Mark belt running direction, if timing belt is to be reused.
CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. Failure to do so will
result in valve and/or piston damage.
6. Rotate engine clockwise until crankshaft (10) mark aligns with the TDC mark on oil pump housing (9) and the
camshaft sprocket (2, 7) timing marks (1, 8) are aligned with the marks on the rear cover.
7. Remove the timing belt tensioner (12) and remove timing belt.
TIMING GEAR ALIGNMENT
1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT GEAR ALIGNMENT MARK 7 - LEFT CAMSHAFT GEAR
2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT GEAR 8 - LEFT CAMSHAFT GEAR ALIGNMENT MARK
3 - CYLINDER HEAD TO INNER TIMING BELT COVER BOLTS -
RIGHT
9 - CRANKSHAFT GEAR ALIGNMENT MARK
4 - TIMING BELT 10 - CRANKSHAFT GEAR
5 - WATER PUMP PULLEY 11 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY
6 - CYLINDER HEAD TO INNER TIMING BELT COVER BOLTS -
LEFT
12 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER
9 - 2274 ENGINE - 3.5L - SERVICE INFORMATION LX
8. Inspect the tensioner for fluid leakage.
9. Inspect the pivot and bolt for free movement, bearing grease leakage, and smooth rotation. If not rotating freely,
replace the arm and pulley assembly.
10. When tensioner is removed from the engine it is
necessary to compress the plunger into the tensioner
body.
CAUTION: Index the tensioner in the vise the same
way it is installed on the engine. This ensures
proper pin orientation when tensioner is installed
on the engine.
a. Place the tensioner into a vise (1) and
SLOWLY compress the plunger. Total bleed
down of tensioner should take about 5 minutes.
b. When plunger is compressed into the tensioner
body install a pin (2) through the body and
plunger to retain plunger in place until tensioner
is installed.
CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS
CAUTION: The 3.5L engine is NOT a free-wheeling
design. Therefore, care should be taken not to
rotate the camshafts or crankshaft with the timing
belt removed.
NOTE: The camshaft timing gears are keyed to the
camshaft.
1. Perform fuel pressure release procedure. (Refer to
14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
2. Remove front timing belt cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
3. Position crankshaft sprocket to the TDC mark on
the oil pump housing by turning crankshaft in the
clockwise direction.
4. Install a dial indicator in number 1 cylinder to check TDC of the piston. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston is
at exactly TDC.
5. Remove camshaft retainer/thrust plate (1) from rear of right cylinder head.
6. Remove the right cylinder head cover.
7. Remove the right rocker arm assembly.
8. Remove the timing belt tensioner and timing belt.
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#10 Old 01-26-2009, 07:47 PM
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replace the belt and tensioner now. dont reuse at your current mileage
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