If you are like me, you hate to break the factory paint if at all possible. When you get a deep scratch, the only good way to repair it is a trip to the local body shop.
I haven't had my Daytona a month and a half and I have a hugh scratch in the front passenger's door. I figured since I would have to get it repaired at a body shop anyway, I'm willing to try an idea I've had for some time. The door is already messed up so if it doesn't work it still going the to body shop.
Try this at your own risk, if you screw up your paint, it's still your's.
The metal can not be dented or creased in the scratch. If so, the body shop will have to fix it.
Touch up paints may not match your paint perfectly.
Your mileage may vary depending on your color. ie dark or light, metallic or not, pearl top coat. The darker the color, the harder it will be to get invisible repair. Metallic colors will also be more difficult because you won't be able to ge the metallic flakes to lay the same as the factory paint. It may not be an invisible repair but it would still look better than an open scratch.
Now as I said, there is a hugh scratch in my door......
and its deep............
Now I will say here, if the scratch goes all the way through the paint and primer to metal, then you should have it repaired by a body shop. This will insure there is proper rust protection under the paint and it shouldn't blister up on you later.
First off, get a very fine grit sandpaper, I used 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Fold a piece in half and place the folded edge into the scratch and lightly dry sand the edges of the scratch.
My scratch was made by a piece of aluminum and it left a mark on the paint on the edge of the scratch. I did not do this step and since my paint is white, that mark shows a little after I finished.
Now get your touch up paint tube and remove the cap and brush. Clean the brush off on a paper towel. Next trim the brush so that it has a point on it. I needed to trim mine a little more for a finer point.
Replace the brush into the tube and shack up the paint. Start applying light coats of paint to the scratch. Light coats works better then heavy coats. As the paint drys, it will flatten down into the scratch. Allow the paint to dry until it's not tacky between coats.
Continue to apply paint until the scratch is filled to the level of the original finish. I didn't need the last few coats I applied, so it just made more sanding for me.
After you have the scratch filled, let the paint cure for 24 hours. If you don't, it will roll up as you try to sand it down. I know, it really looks ugly now.
Next I fixed my 2000 grit paper to a small flat piece of wood. You can use a sanding block if you like. I didn't want to sand that big of an area. Start wet sanding the painted area. Use plenty of water while sanding applying light pressure. Sand directly over the scratch as flat as possible. Try not to sand any more area then necessary. Check you sand paper often, if it fills with paint, put a fresh piece on your sanding block. Continue sanding until the finish is flush again.
If there are still imperfections in the scratch, you can apply more touch up paint, let cure, and wet sand flush again. Avoid sanding through the clear coat in the surrounding area. You would have to sand awhile to do that but it would be possible. If you do sand through the clear coat, take it to the body shop.
Next use you favorite polish and buffer to buff the sanded area until the gloss finish is restored. I used Turtle Wax Cleaner Wax liquid (because that's what I in my garage) and hand rubbed my door.
Can you see where I repaired the scratch???
If you can't see it, it's right here.....
This worked satisfactory for me. Your mileage may vary and if you screw it up, it's still your's.