I'm in the middle of a amp install and was wondering if anyone had clues as to what the +/- wires were for use with a line converter. Also if there was a good wire to use for the remote on the AMP since the stock amp has a 12v constant on it.
I ended up just tapping off the rear 6x9 speaker to the AMP. Used the fuse box Power Access 20AMP fuse on #18 for the remote to get things up and running.
Lights are diming a bit when the bass hits, but I had the doors open for a bout 3 hours while I was working + stereo tests. Hoping once the battery charges back up that it goes away.
Starting to think using the 6x9 signal off the rear deck isn't a good idea. I'd imagine its not getting a full range signal.
I see 3 speaker pairs coming from the AMP on the rear deck. I assume its L and R in with a Mono Out. Anyone aware as to what the -/+ colors are?
Ok, I went back and looked at what wires were going into the factory sub. There is actually 4, so that meant the 2 left were the input. From memory its a Green with black stripe and Grey with black stripe. Tapped into those and ran that to my AMP and wow what a difference.
Thinking I need to go to a Class D amplifier now. The Power Acoustik I'm running is dimming the lights when the bass hits.
The lights are dimming because when the bass hits the amp is drawing power from your electrical system. It's literally sucking the current out of the wiring in your car.... which can be a bad thing for the cars electrical components... You need to install an electrolytic capacitor... 1/2 farad should be okay... but one farad is better.... The Cap acts like a little power reserve... so when your bass hits the amp drains current from the capacitor rather than your cars electrical system....
Bright Silver Metallic 06 SRT8 - Groups I & II. Blinker mod, AirRaid CAI w/ scoop, Elite22 center consol cover, Nav bezel & Kenwood DVD/NAV/Sirius/Bluetooth/iPod center unit, Debadged and demolded....
Thanks, I was just reading about those. I did a compare with the Kicker Sub (stock) vs. the Punch P2 I had with the Power Acoustic AMP.
For the most part the punch deliverd a beefy sub hit and vibration, but its not worth carrying the weight of the amp, and extra sub/box to get it. I didn't have the light dimming issue in the SRT10, but unless I go the route you highlighted I don't think its worth it. Kicker just needs a Hz knob so you can adjust it to where you want as I think its more than capable of pushing what my Punch was.
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