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Old 01-01-2013, 07:55 PM
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Trunk Release

My wife's '08 SE is experiencing trunk release problems; she has to use the key. The button on the dash and the key fob are not working. The wires leading to the latch assembly are fine. I can hear a very faint click when the switch is activated, so I'm sure it's getting power. I removed the latch hoping I could take it apart, but it's a sealed unit. Any ideas? Do you think I'm going to have to replace the latch? Anybody got a part number or diagram of the latch assembly? Thanks for your help.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by PJRNM View Post
My wife's '08 SE is experiencing trunk release problems; she has to use the key. The button on the dash and the key fob are not working. The wires leading to the latch assembly are fine. I can hear a very faint click when the switch is activated, so I'm sure it's getting power. I removed the latch hoping I could take it apart, but it's a sealed unit. Any ideas? Do you think I'm going to have to replace the latch? Anybody got a part number or diagram of the latch assembly? Thanks for your help.
You may have the same problem many of us have had with the wires breaking in the rubber boot at the decklid/body. Mine slowly stopped working on the CHMSL, trunk release button and key fob. I had to remove the boot, cut all the wires and splice in about 6" of wire to make it work.

Apparently Chrysler made these too short and the wires break if the trunk is opened and closed enough. There are other threads on it. You might be able to find them by doing a search. That is how I found about it and fixed mine. Good luck.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:19 PM
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Thanks for the reply! Surprisingly, the wires are good.....that would have been an easy fix. I have to have the car thatís different from everybody elseís!!
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:27 PM
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Cool

If you can use a test light it's easy to diagnose. You'll need your wife to help you with the dash switch. Clip the test light to the Negative cable clamp. Disconnect the 3-way latch connector. Probe the terminal for the Tan/Yellow wire. Have your wife hit the switch. The test light should light up when she presses the switch. Now clip the test light to the Positive cable clamp. Probe the terminal of the Black/White wire. It should light up regardless of switch operation.

If both work as outlined then one more check is the spring loaded foot on the striker plate. The foot is plastic and can break over time. If it's broken, the trunk won't pop open correctly. Broken foot- replace the striker plate.

If either circuit does not work as outlined then there is a wiring issue, which most commonly is inside the boot. Look for discolored insulation, which would indicate a possible break.
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TBird100636 View Post
If you can use a test light it's easy to diagnose. You'll need your wife to help you with the dash switch. Clip the test light to the Negative cable clamp. Disconnect the 3-way latch connector. Probe the terminal for the Tan/Yellow wire. Have your wife hit the switch. The test light should light up when she presses the switch. Now clip the test light to the Positive cable clamp. Probe the terminal of the Black/White wire. It should light up regardless of switch operation.

If both work as outlined then one more check is the spring loaded foot on the striker plate. The foot is plastic and can break over time. If it's broken, the trunk won't pop open correctly. Broken foot- replace the striker plate.

If either circuit does not work as outlined then there is a wiring issue, which most commonly is inside the boot. Look for discolored insulation, which would indicate a possible break.

That will be my next method of troubleshooting it. Thanks for the suggestions. When the truck is open, what sound does your release make when activated? Is it a distinct click? Ours makes a barely audible, muffled sound....like itís not fully activated when power is applied. Love the avatar, go Pats!! I am a displaced Massachusetts native.
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