Is synthetic oil required for 2012 charger SE? - Dodge Charger Forums
Performance Discussion/Modifications (2011 +) Discuss any performance modification in this section of Dodge Charger Models 2011 and up.

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#1 Old 10-12-2012, 10:11 PM
dglenn9000
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Is synthetic oil required for 2012 charger SE?

Is synthetic oil required for the 2012 charger SE? I checked the manual and it says you may use synthetic oil only if quality requirements are met. But no where does it say it is recommended or required. I ask because my wife took my charger for an oil change while I was at work and the tech said he could only put in full synthetic.


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#2 Old 10-12-2012, 10:49 PM
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The answer is no. The SRT 8 is the only one that requires synthetic oil. That being said synthetic oil is better for the life of the engine but as long as you change out the conventional oil every 3,000 it will do just fine. Sounds like your local shop either looked up the wrong engine or ripped you off. Do you know what weight synthetic they put in it?

2012 Charger Super Bee powered by SRT/ Also doubles as the Bat mobile. 12.43@115.01. Diablo 93 Tune, Magna flow exhaust with reso delete and stock tips
2008 Charger R/T Titanium Grey/ lots of mods Gone But Not Forgotten!
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#3 Old 10-13-2012, 04:52 AM
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The answer is no. The SRT 8 is the only one that requires synthetic oil. That being said synthetic oil is better for the life of the engine but as long as you change out the conventional oil every 3,000 it will do just fine.
Actually, the service interval on the SE is listed at 8K on conventional. The cheap asses I just bought my car from didn't even change the oil before selling it so I'm up for a change as well. Since I'm not an aggressive driver I'll likely run with the recommended 5W-30 conventional and change out at something like 6K.

From what I can tell, it seems like Dodge recommends Pennzoil for the Pentastar but I'm sure any oil that meets the ISLAC and API specs should be fine. I'm just not sure I want to pony up for synthetic on a non high-performance engine.

Personally I think our friend above was ripped off since it's all too common these days.

TLDR: Hothouse is absolutely correct. It won't hurt as long as it's the right weight (5W-30) but it isn't required.

P.S. That's a beautiful ride hothouse.

2013 Charger R/T

Last edited by Hazmat11; 10-13-2012 at 05:02 AM.
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#4 Old 10-13-2012, 09:30 AM
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P.S. That's a beautiful ride hothouse.
Why thank you sir ! Thanks for the heads up on the 8,000k change on the conventional oil. I have been using synthetic for soooo long in all my vehicles I didn't know the change interval had went up.
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#5 Old 10-13-2012, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by dglenn9000 View Post
Is synthetic oil required for the 2012 charger SE? I checked the manual and it says you may use synthetic oil only if quality requirements are met. But no where does it say it is recommended or required. I ask because my wife took my charger for an oil change while I was at work and the tech said he could only put in full synthetic.


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The problem with our society today is that we regularly ruin words and their meaning! We use the word "Synthetic" as a type when it is really a characteristic! We use the word Kleenex for facial tissues, but not all tissues are really made by Kleenex.

We use Synthetic to describe Group IV Poly Alpha Olefin oils....and now they even use the words "Full Synthetic" instead of Para-synthetic.

What people don't know or realize is that what you put in your car based on what it is made of does really matter. Dodge has come up with the 8k mile numbers for the Pentastar for cost of ownership numbers and not for "doing the best" for the engine!

I have seen samples of even 5k mile oil in the Pentastar and there is a lot more wear in it than anyone here would want.....if they really care about their car lasting longer than the warranty! This is why Mopar puts a 5 year or 100k mile warranty. Most people will hit the 5 years before the 100k! Average driving is 12-15k miles per year. 12 x 5 = 60k 15x 5 = 75k. Warranty done......3-5 more year needed to use it!

To understand what your question really means, I have put the differences together for your review. Since I manufacture oils for industry as well as racing.....and regular street cars, understanding the differences are important!


Off the shelf solvent refined oil - also known as "Conventional Oil" is mineral based with various molecule sizes and extremely reactive to heat. Reactive up to 35% by volume. Smaller molecules burn up and produce varnish. Larger molecules make oil thicker.....20 turns to 30, 30 turns to 40 etc. Great on seals and maintains additive packages. Pumpability, wearability, and oxidation stability are marginal. Need to change quickly...2,500 to 3,000 miles. Produces more wear. In a 6 quart system like the Pentastar, over 2 quarts can end up in the catch can (if you have one) and mainly out the exhaust. They are like Valvoline, Castrol, Wolfs Head, Quaker State etc. This is the oil that is known to sludge up in engines.

Why does engine oil break down, combine with contaminants, and form sludge deposits? Chemistry teaches that engine oil is unstable and decomposes in the presence of oxygen at high temperature and the % of reactivity due to base stock componentry. The process, called oxidation, occurs after exposure to normal high operating conditions for extended periods of time and is accelerated by exposure to severe operating conditions or to excessively high temperatures. Remember that our engines run at 200 to 240 degrees for emission reasons. Conventional Solvent Refined oils do not do well in these conditions!

During oxidation (which is why oxidation stability is so important in the manufacture of your oil), the chemical bonds that define the oil molecules are broken, and some of the reactive products accumulate and interact to form a highly viscous complex mixture of solids, liquids, and gases that contain a variety of solid carbon-based dirt and metallic particles, as well as liquid coolant, fuel washdown, oil and water droplets.



Off the shelf PAO Synthetic oils are known as "Full Synthetic" and are uniform in molecule structure (hence the word synthetic) and less reactive to heat...about 15% by volume. Consistent small molecules carry heat more uniformly and produce less varnish. I didn't say none! Pumpabillity, wearability and oxidation stability is better than the solvent refined mineral oils I just discussed.

However, these Group IV PAO oils are much more aggressive on seals, and solubility is not very good. Solubility is the additive packages which drop out of them and end up in the oil pan. Change these oils at about 5000 miles for best results. In a 6 quart system like your Pentastar, just over 1 quart can end up in the catch can and out the exhaust. Neo, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline, Quaker Q, and NAPA Synthetic are examples. It is interesting that Mobil makes 86% of all the PAO base stock that is sold on the market today. Since a lot of these companies don't do their own refining it isn't hard to understand that they are buying stock from Mobil and private labeling it.

QuantumBlue Custom Blended is what we design, and are also uniform in molecule structure (synthetic) and much much less reactive to heat....about 3% max by volume. We hydrogen crack sweet crude oil to take virtually all the reactives out of the oil so that you don't encounter them in your engine while being VERY friendly on your seals. It is a more expensive process to do this, but it yields an oil that will withstand anything you can throw at it and not turn to sludge and will not evaporate into the catch can and out the exhaust! It contains consistent larger molecules for better carrying capacity than PAO and are clean running for a long period of time. Very good pumpability, wearability, and oxidation stability than solvent refined or PAO based oils. It is very friendly on seals and the solubility is significantly better than either of the other two. Change intervals of these oils are in the 10 to 15k miles on one drain. In a 6 quart system, just 5.76 oz of the oil ends up in the catch can or out the exhaust compared to 2 qts out the exhaust in a solvent refined oil or 1 quart out the exhaust for the PAO Synthetic.

So assuming a conventional oil is $15.57 for 5 quarts of oil + 1 quart at $3.12 to make the 6 quarts + 7.88 for a cartridge filter = $26.57 x 1.075 tax = 28.56 per change....if you do it yourself. So 10k miles at 3.33 x 28.56 = $95.11.

Typical Synthetic Group IV would be like Mobil 1 at 8.99 per quart. 8.99 x 6 = 53.94 + 7.88 for and oil filter = 61.82 x 1.075 tax = $66.46 for 5k miles.

66.46 x 2 = $132.91 for 10k miles....again if you did it yourself.

QuantumBlue is $12.76 per quart x 6 = 76.56 + free oil filter this month and no tax = $76.56 + shipping of $12.00 to your door = $88.56 for 10k miles again if you did it yourself. You can take it to a local shop to do the change but use our oils.

In the end, the mineral oils don't protect anywhere near as well as our QB yet people are obsessed in changing them and spending more.

The PAO oils were better in their time but have been far eclipsed by what we make and we are no more expensive than a typical synthetic off the shelf and still do better than them in so many aspects.

The oil analysis charts that we post constantly prove that.

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
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Last edited by 370 HEMI; 10-13-2012 at 10:18 AM.
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#6 Old 10-13-2012, 06:02 PM
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Why thank you sir ! Thanks for the heads up on the 8,000k change on the conventional oil. I have been using synthetic for soooo long in all my vehicles I didn't know the change interval had went up.
Why you're very welcome. I'd pay for a ride in that bad boy.

I actually did a bit more research and it seems that driving habits are monitored and the oil change light may come on before 8K. It's all in how you drive it I suppose.

I have no idea what's wrong with me but this car makes me go granny on my way to work and back. I don't think I've ever owned something that's as comfortable and easy to drive.
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#7 Old 10-14-2012, 10:29 AM
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The dealer does not use synthetic oil in anything unless it is a SRT8 and I beleive all Dodge dealerships dump penzoil in your vehicles I recommend going with a full synthetic oil of your choice when you do your first oil change mine was at about 3,500 mi when the light came on.

You will notice when you get the factory oil out and the synthetic in your engine will run smoother and quieter too, even though the book says 8K my oil change indicator comes on about every 3,500 mi or so and when it does I change the oil.



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#8 Old 10-14-2012, 10:59 AM
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Even if your car doesn't "require" synthetic, it's a good idea to use full synthetic or at least a blend since the engine will run much smoother and potentially last longer.
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#9 Old 10-14-2012, 11:47 AM
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Wow, there is a noticeable difference in how my car runs now with the new oil change. Can you Hemi is correct. Biggest difference me and my wife have noticed is we don't get the rough shift from 1st to 2nd anymore (so far). Wonder why the first oil change came so early. I only have 3800 miles on my charger.

But now my dilemma is if I want to continue paying $90 for full synthetic oil changes or switch to $35 for part synthetic. I've never put full syn in any of my cars before.


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#10 Old 10-14-2012, 11:52 AM
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Why you're very welcome. I'd pay for a ride in that bad boy.

I actually did a bit more research and it seems that driving habits are monitored and the oil change light may come on before 8K. It's all in how you drive it I suppose.

I have no idea what's wrong with me but this car makes me go granny on my way to work and back. I don't think I've ever owned something that's as comfortable and easy to drive.
Well you wouldnt have to pay for a ride Id give you one free. For some reason my car always seems to need a gas pedal fucntion check to and from work!
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