How To remove and install Upper Control Arms - Dodge Charger Forums
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#1 Old 03-10-2011, 11:59 PM
dellagratti
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How To remove and install Upper Control Arms

I couldnt find a thread so that inspired me to create one, I hope this helps out! It actually was a simple project to do.

TOOLS needed:
21mm,18mm,15mm,13mm wrenches; 10mm, 13mm, 18mm sockets, ratchet and extensions; a mallet, vise grips, PB blast and pickle fork.


After raising car and placing on jack stand and removing tire, use the 18mm and 21mm to remove the bolt holding the strut to lower control arm. The nut is 18mm and bolt is 21mm.


Next you will need the 18mm wrench to remove the nut from the upper control arm. I had to use the mallet to break the nut free (just be careful not to hit car).


Then i used the pickle fork to pry the 2 apart which will cause this and since I was replacing them i couldnt care less.


Then use the 13mm to remove the three nuts holding top strut in place and the remove whole strut to provide more space to work in.



Next locate the the bolt heads on inside of the engine bay. They are 18mm.

This one is under all the cables leading to computer.

For optimum space you may want to remove the strut brace.


After removing the bolts the old upper control arm will be ready to remove and the new one installed!



After all this just reinstall everything and insure all your bolts and nut are tight! I didnt have torque specs so I used my own PFT (Pretty F'n Tight)!

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Last edited by dellagratti; 03-11-2011 at 12:02 AM.
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#2 Old 03-11-2011, 12:11 AM
mnunes
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Nice write-up. Did you replace the upper control arm due to front-end clunk? Did it help?
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#3 Old 03-11-2011, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnunes View Post
Nice write-up. Did you replace the upper control arm due to front-end clunk? Did it help?
the clunk and that the boots were torn n no grease existed in boots which i discovered last weekend while installing the coilovers, i still need to do the rear end links cuz they are dry rotted bad. i havent driven it yet i made this, dinner, watced tv and spoke to the mom. i will drive in a lil while and give an update to the noise factor.
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#4 Old 03-11-2011, 02:22 AM
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so after a test drive the clunk noise from pass side is gone! what i saw after examing the oem boot to moog boot i noticed the oem one doesnt have anything on the bottom to prevent grease loss (if it does its long since gone) but the moog does.
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#5 Old 05-23-2011, 05:18 AM
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I will add you can do this without removing then strut. Less access, but not too bad.

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―C-3PO, to R2-D2
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#6 Old 05-23-2011, 06:40 AM
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Torque Specs are:
55 ft. lbs for the body mounting bolts.
35 ft. lbs. + 90* (Deg.) for the nut on the ball joint.
A-Arms are not interchangeable between RWD and AWD cars.

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#7 Old 05-23-2011, 07:05 AM
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Great write up, bro. Just had mine changed out...both ball joints were fried. I went w/ SPC adjustable arms. Had I known all this, woulda done it myself and saved 200 bones!! Anyways, SPC set up is nice as the alignment is done from the ball joint itself...and unlike the stock set up, the ball joint is serviceable. My Pedders set up really screwed up my alignment, now all is well......hey MNUNES....put this on your everything thread.

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#8 Old 05-23-2011, 07:18 AM
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Its already there
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#9 Old 05-24-2011, 05:08 AM
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......duh....hello McFly!!
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#10 Old 05-24-2011, 01:26 PM
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Nice write up . There's another way to release the spindle w/o damaging the boot if your just doing a spring /coilover swap. In the third picture you can see a round flat spot on the spindle,loosen the nut holding the ball joint,but don't completely remove it, then get a large ballpein hammer and hit the flat spot sharply several times and the ball joint stud will release from the spindle,D.

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