So has anyone with the radiator belly pan removed done this? I have been toying with this idea for a while now, but that has been my biggest concern.
Do you maen to do the instalation or keeping the belly pan off permanently?
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Honeycomb insert with heritage R/T emblem, BT Pistolgrip, Demolded, lots of parts painted TorRed and metalflake silver, a GSM CAI( off car now) , chilly air mods, and an AFe gone to research!
I just cut the PCV tube, and put a small breather filter on it.
I'll have to look into your solution for the PCV. . .
Having a filter on that one is probably fine (not quite legal) it is basically a relief vent for the engine.
__________________ I am the Stig
2010 R/T DWBlue, 2800 PI stall, Homemade CAI, JBA headers and mids, Flowmaster catback, Custom tune by Diablotoona, 180 T-stat, 3.06 rear gears.
I figured thsat since outside air is always cooler than air already inside the engine compartment, it just seemed like the easy 'just gotta do it' kind of mod. The biggest difference between our 2 home made versions is that I retained the factory filter and housing.
I used 4" flexible ducting (it looks like dryer vent stuff but is industrial) to route from that same hole under the airbox down & out through that front angled air diverter thing (that I removed), and the open end is right behind the front lower fascia opening.
I used a few layers of weatherstripping foam w/ adhesive backing on the underside of the airbox and another on the metal fender area to ensure a good seal, essentially forcing cooler air to come in through the 4" ducting.
I don't care about water issues because by retaining the factory airbox & filter, it can't get in now any easier than before the mod.
I made sure not to seal off the small drain hole on the airbox, just in case I decide to forage a small stream to make a wicked getaway.
Mine might work better than without the tube, who knows?
Yours probably does, and it looks good too -- you can't eve see mine.
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LOL, I could. . it'd basically be just getting you a parts list together for assembly. . . LOL
If we lived closer together I'd offer to meet you and help ya out, but 13 states exceeds the "helpin' out" range for me.
Seriously though, if I can do it, pretty much anyone can.
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Proud owner of 2006 Daytona R/T in GoManGo #1411
DDMTuning 6000K low beam and fog light HID's, 35% tint front windows/15% tint rear windows, DiabloSport Predator 93CAI tune, and of course, my own Homemade true CAI (directions here: http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/...d.php?t=127769)
I bought an aluminum tube from silicone intakes at the same time as the silicone, the hardest part was cutting that to length with a hacksaw, in a vise (wrapped in rubber).
__________________ I am the Stig
2010 R/T DWBlue, 2800 PI stall, Homemade CAI, JBA headers and mids, Flowmaster catback, Custom tune by Diablotoona, 180 T-stat, 3.06 rear gears.
After having the intake in place for a few months I upgraded my fog lights to HID's. While I had the front air dam off, I inspected the filter for water damage, or any outright signs of problems.
There were none. The filter looked as clean as the day it was installed. Still nice and K&N red oiled up. No dirt stuck in the filtering element, etc etc.
Just wanted to update the thread for anyone interested in this mod.
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Proud owner of 2006 Daytona R/T in GoManGo #1411
DDMTuning 6000K low beam and fog light HID's, 35% tint front windows/15% tint rear windows, DiabloSport Predator 93CAI tune, and of course, my own Homemade true CAI (directions here: http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/...d.php?t=127769)
I have a questions about the filter you're running. Is there much clearance around it? What I'm looking for is whether or not there is room for a larger 3.5" filter to flow more air, or if a bigger filter may not fit in the space available.
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