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Low Oil Pressure at idle, oil light comes on too

73K views 48 replies 15 participants last post by  fizzer 
#1 ·
Greetings,

My engine light and oil light have been coming on the last few days. (Have not pulled h codes yet) and my oil pressure is real low - 4 to 5 PSI at idle after the car is running for a few minutes.

I just had plugs changes for he 30 k service. I also switched form Royal Purple (K&N filter) to Amsoil (Amsoil filter) 5w20 Synthetic when I got the plugs changed out.

The stick actually reads more than full. Could this be the cause?

Thx!
D a n a
 
#2 ·
How much past the full mark is it? A quarts worth? Do you check it after you let it idle for 5 minutes? I'm no mechanic, but I'd venture to guess that if it's WAY overfilled, it can cause problems. I underfill mine if anything.
 
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#11 ·
How much past the full mark is it? A quarts worth? Do you check it after you let it idle for 5 minutes? I'm no mechanic, but I'd venture to guess that if it's WAY overfilled, it can cause problems. I underfill mine if anything.

and the understatement of the year award goes too.. . :D
I don't see how a too-full dipstick reading would result in low oil pressure.

Have you been driving the car in this condition? If so, you're asking for WAY bigger problems if there is in fact a real problem. Is your engine noisier than usual when this happens?

Seriously, I would have had the car flatbed'ed to a dealer in order to determine whether it was a simple case of failure of the oil pressure sender or if you really do have super low oil pressure for some other reason. And if you do have a real problem with oil pressure, chances are if you drove the car in this condition you've already messed something else up big time.
Over full causes aeriation in the oil from the crank dipping into the oil in the pan however this is too low of a reading for that issue. The aeriation forms bubbles from the detergents in the oils and sometimes causes hit and miss oil pressure from the air.

Could they have knocked off a vacuum or electrical connector when they did the work?
No vacuum lines are in the oil system, nor do they have anything to do with it.
The oil pump is mechanically linked and doesnt use any electrical signal for operation or input.

If you have ok oil level replace the filter right now and see if that helps.
 
#3 ·
Dana,

What made you switch from RP to Amsoil just out of curiousity?

Xian
 
#6 · (Edited)
The economy. I am an Amsoil distributor but instead of getting Amsoil synthetic for 4.25 a quart, I have been paying 6.99 or 7.99 for RP eginning wiht my first oil change 3 years ago. I figured I would eat my own dog food, and go wiht the Amsoil, that's all. She does seem to run a little cooler with Amsoil but I have not driven her very much or very far since the switch. You cannot go wrong with either oil. Both products are the best of the best along with M1

D a n a
 
#4 ·
My engine light and oil light have been coming on the last few days. (Have not pulled h codes yet) and my oil pressure is real low - 4 to 5 PSI at idle after the car is running for a few minutes.
I don't see how a too-full dipstick reading would result in low oil pressure.

Have you been driving the car in this condition? If so, you're asking for WAY bigger problems if there is in fact a real problem. Is your engine noisier than usual when this happens?

Seriously, I would have had the car flatbed'ed to a dealer in order to determine whether it was a simple case of failure of the oil pressure sender or if you really do have super low oil pressure for some other reason. And if you do have a real problem with oil pressure, chances are if you drove the car in this condition you've already messed something else up big time.
 
#5 ·
Oil light just came on yesterday. Idle is fine when I am driving the car. It is a very low Idle when stopping, goes down to like 2 to 3 psi and then the oil light comes on. I have not been driving it very much before the light came on or after.

I just picked it up from the dealership last Wednesday. It is in no way damaged, the engine sounds healthy and strong, no loss of power, just the light and the low idle when coming to a stop.

D a n a
 
#9 ·
Well, TSB's are not recalls .... you will most likely only have that done at no charge if your car is still under the original 3/36 warranty ...
 
#14 · (Edited)
Seeing as how it was fine prior to the oil change and now its not its, the only two things messed with are those two things. make sure you check oil level though. I cant tell you how many oil outs ive seen in my day, especially if caused by a leak unnoticed for too long. One such example is a double gasket at the oil filter, it'll leak but it leaks down on the ground so it goes unnoticed for a bit.

If your fluid is fine, next is replacing the filter since there's no way to check it perse. Then replace another .5 qt from the filter that got dumped out. Go into extended evic.
You should have(according to s.m.)
2. Run engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure:
² Curb Idle–25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
² 3000 rpm–170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck
open.

They say 4 psi min but i've never seen one run less than 30 psi at idle so i'd be scared with 4.'



the tsb i saw was for 3.5 not hemis :confused:
 
#16 ·
Another possibility is that the detergents in the Amsoil may be taking the Royal Purple slime out of the engine and pushing it into the pan. The slime could be getting in the pickup and restricting the flow.:rolleyes2: I have seen this on several cars.

Just another thought along with what Wicked said!

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040:bigthumb:
 
#17 ·
speak more on this royal purple slime please :jawdrop:

I work at a performance shop part time and i jump back and forth between mobile 1 (if its on sale ) and royal purple (which i get at a discounted rate). i run nothing but mobile 1 in my customers car but now i'm scared. Slime?
 
#18 ·
Was gonna say what Nick said about the crank aeration, but then he said it.
I also want more RP slime info.
 
#19 ·
Was gonna say what Nick said about the crank aeration, but then he said it.
I also want more RP slime info.[/quote]

Yes...Do tell...wondering minds want to know!!;)
 
#22 · (Edited)
Royal Purple uses oil chemistry that frankly I do not like or agree with. They are using Molybdenum Disulfide in their oil formulations in high amounts.

Molybdenum Disulfide is a converted mineral that has similar properties to graphite. Molybdenum Disulfide does have some good lubricating properties when used for a shorter period of time. However, particles of the Molybdenum Disulfide lose it's soluability and can come out of suspension and produce a polymer/moly slime.

Continual use can and does clog or can partially clog oil filters or oil lines and the remainder normally settles in the bottom of the oil pan which can be picked up and lodged in the oil pickup.

This tends to occur when using extended drain intervals. Molybdenum Disulfide also when it absorbs moisture and mixed with sulfur in the oil can cause acids that are not good for bearing materials.

Our tests have also found that in the lab RP has a very high volatility rate with a 12.51% boil off which as we have stated before ends up in your PCV valve and back into the intake.

The reason they use Molybdenum Disulfide is because it tends to take the place of Zinc and Phosphorous. Both of which are greatly superior to Moly.

I hope this helps explain the "sllime"

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040:bigthumb:
 
#23 · (Edited)
Royal Purple uses oil chemistry that frankly I do not like or agree with. They are using Molybdenum Disulfide in their oil formulations in high amounts.

Molybdenum Disulfide is a converted mineral that has similar properties to graphite. Molybdenum Disulfide does have some good lubricating properties when used for a shorter period of time. However, particles of the Molybdenum Disulfide lose it's soluability and can come out of suspension and produce a polymer/moly slime.

Continual use can and does clog or can partially clog oil filters or oil lines and the remainder normally settles in the bottom of the oil pan which can be picked up and lodged in the oil pickup.

This tends to occur when using extended drain intervals. Molybdenum Disulfide also when it absorbs moisture and mixed with sulfur in the oil can cause acids that are not good for bearing materials.

Our tests have also found that in the lab RP has a very high volatility rate with a 12.51%boil off which as we have stated before ends up in your PCV valve and back into the intake.

The reason they use Molybdenum Disulfide is because it tends to take the place of Zinc and Phosphorous. Both of which are greatly superior to Moly.

I hope this helps explain the "sllime"

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040:bigthumb:

Ya, those molybendinem stuff. i hate when they do that
:confused:


:grin:


hmmmmm i use royal purple, and i have a busted pcv valve . I have several friends with 5.7's that have busted pcv valves who also use royal purple. Oh boy. :sad:
i guess i'll stick with mobil til i come out and see ya in july.




Come on dana, what the beef is going on? did ya fix it? You got my number call if you need. or at least text me and let me know if the filter was poo or not
 
#27 ·
Glad I'm running Quantum :) :) :)
 
#28 ·
I will be when my car comes out of storage in 2 MORE DAYS!!! I have always used Mobil1...
 
#37 ·
I did forget to mention that I had the dealership fix a rattle in the dash. Well, it is not really fixed but it is not as annoying as it use to be.

No leaks and the level is fine.

I pulled the codes and this is what I have:

P 0520:
Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit.

B 1668
Reverse Lane Control Circuit High

Maybe it is the switch after all.

D a n a
 
#41 ·
Ya those are both circuit codes. I cant see how someone jacked up that sensor based on its location but maybe they did. Maybe they got happy putting the filter on. that code is pretty simple diagnostics. its either the three wires going to the sensor from the pcm, the pcm , or the sensor.

the 1668 is a circuit failure on your reverse light circuit. You got some wiring issues you need to get handled.

Damn it wicked, my oil pressure never hits 30 psi at idle (at normal operating temps).

Either my pump is jacked or... are you sure about that 30 psi at idle??

I'm sort of worried.
I've never seen less than 30, come to think of it i've never seen less than 40. I start the car and it ramps up to low 40's and runs as high as 60ish on the highway. (cant remember highway as much as thats a rarity for my car).

More opinions? Anyone else running lower than 30 at idle (cold/hot)?
 
#39 ·
Out of curiosity,

W h y d o y o u d o u b l e s p a c e y o u r n a m e ?
 
#40 ·
Who me? Damn, now we are off topic. Anyway, I do it because I like it double spaced. Actually, it came from the old glory days when I worked at AOL, Compuserve, and Netscape, every time I used a new cool mail signature, others would copy it or use something similar. So I got rid of all that sh!t and just started double spacing my name. No one copied it and now it's a habit.

D a n a
 
#43 ·
I'll check mine again in the morning but i dont think i've ever seen less than 40. ????
 
#44 ·
checked today
cold 29 degrees. 39 psi at start up
up to 58 during accel
42ish stop lights


lunch time 60 degrees
42 idle
45 stop lights
same on accel
 
#48 · (Edited)
I changed the oil yesterday (M1 and Fram ultra). Always used M1 but usually with Mobil filter. I admit I dont usually check oil pressures but new kind of filter made me wonder. So I was gettin 50-52 psi at 2000 rpm and 18 -20 psi at idle. This with an oil temp of up to 212F (checked at idle). I was a little worried by these figures but some of the posts on this thread have reassured me that my (beautiful, rev happy) motor isnt going to explode/seize.
I havent looked what it was at the oil temps quoted but at 60F the oil is still getting warmed up, still, doesn't seem to be enough of a change in psi, i.e. "42 at idle, 45 at stop lights, same on accel". Unless the motor idles at 1500 rpm?
 
#46 ·
The problem was the sensor. As far as b 1668, did not have one of the tinted tails plugged in all the way. Idle is great now.

thx!
D a n a
:bigthumb:
 
#47 ·
Hey guys, I have been using Royal Purple and am experiencing this same problem. Taking it to the dealership this weekend to see what they tell me.

My oil pressure once the car turns on is at 13-19 at idle. Then once it warms up it idles in the 10's and gradually drops to 0. on the highway it stays around 20. This started yesterday which I changed my oil to Mobil 1 5W20 and still getting the same problem.

I will also check the codes it's throwing tonight to see what it says.

STAY AWAY FROM ROYAL PURPLE!!

Dana or anyone that has had this problem or experience with this before, is the sender senser cheap or can it be found at discount or anything so i can rule that out before going to the dealer?

My car is a 2007 Dodge Charger R/T 5.7 with 55,900 miles.

Thanks in advance.
 
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