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Mixed oils now have p0520 code

10K views 31 replies 8 participants last post by  370 HEMI 
#1 ·
So I used QB oils for my car but for some reason it burned more than RP.
Explanation:
When I used RP 5W20, I buy 8 quarts because I use 7.5 quarts to change my oil. The rest I save for top off because of my catch can. When I do the oil change at 7500 miles, sometimes I still have about ¼ quart left from the 8th quart of RP.

My Quantum Blue experience:
I tried out QB but I wasn't impressed. Didn't notice any difference in mpg's or hp. Used it along with Aces IV additive which I was impressed with it but found having to pour 3 ounces EVERY gas tank a little tedious. You get a quart bottle and have to remember to pour it in the tank every fill up. It did make the car peppier but I HAD to use the additive.

As for my code, I checked my oil at 5500 miles yesterday and was marking low. I had already used up my last ½ quart I had left of the QB oil. So I went and bought RP to top it off. Now my oil pressure sensor is acting up. I get the code but no oil light. So it leads me to believe that mixing of both oils caused it.

QB: 7w23
RP: 5W20

Question:
Am I wrong to assume that mixing both oils with different viscosity is the issue? I had the oil sensor replaced 2 years ago.

And just so we're clear. I'm not bashing QB or Aces IV but it wasn't for me. I'm sticking to RP. It's available off the shelf any time I need it. And it comes in quarts so I can recycle my old oil in the empty quart bottles. Also it sucks cause unless I'm mistaken, now I have to do an oil change prematurely.

Can anyone please give me some insight? Thanks in advance. Thanks Bryan for your exceptional customer service. But I'm sticking with what I've been using.
 
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#3 ·
As for mixing the oil, seems unlikely that it would cause your oil pressure sensor to act up. I think it's just a coincidence. From what I have seen, you have to completely use the wrong viscosity for the CEL to come on with an incorrect oil message or high oil pressure.

Personally, I have feelings about mixing different oils but that's my personal belief so I won't get into that. As far as RP goes, I'm personally not a fan due to the excessive consintration of molybdenum in their oil.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Sorry that you didn't see a difference with QB like you thought. I was hoping we could have gotten to the next change as the first is used to clean out what is in the engine....especially the Molybdenum Disulfide from the many changes of RP. Remember that you don't get fat overnight and you don't get skinny overnight. With all the mileage on your car with RP and 1 of QB maybe a little on the light side of comparing here. What about the noises in the engine? Did the combination quiet down the noises we discussed? I called you to follow up during the first change but I could never get you or have you call back. Sorry I didn't get a hold of you!

Glad to hear you liked the ACES IV though. Yea, you have to put it in because the fuels are crappy. Continual use does get you more power and torque. Unfortunately we all like that and enjoy using more of it and that will cause fuel economy to suffer.

However, adding the QB and the RP together would not cause any issues with the oil pressure sensor. What might have happened is while cleaning it out and then adding the RP back you could have gotten a larger piece of Moly in the sensor port and caused a faulty reading and the code. ;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#7 ·
No, I understand what you were saying. I was just saying I would have liked to get to 10k miles and replace it. That was all.

Don't need to replace it at this point. Continue on to 10k.;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#10 ·
Large piece of moly?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Large piece of molly...ecstasy! Duh, come on PD keep up! Haha. It's a charger rave.

Interesting thread here, I've been following since the beginning.

I agree that topping off with RP shouldn't have caused the CEL. It's a possibility the sensor could have went bad a second time; a small possibility anyway.

As long as the car is running fine You can "ignore it" and change the oil at a regular interval, maybe slightly early. But if you're like me having that stupid light on makes me crazy. If you clear it with your tuner does the code pop up again right away?

This shows some other possibilities for the code:

http://engine-codes.com/p0520_dodge.html
 
#23 ·
One major issue with this...it doesn't say how many miles are on this sample. Unless I overlooked it, which is very possible.
 
#27 ·
The problem is you're running RP, which is junk oil. If you want a quality product get Amsoil or Redline. Penzoil is also better, be it cheaper.

I'd pull the pan and take a look around. I'd then run a bunch of this through it if you want to clean up the build up. http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-platinum-full-synthetic-motor-oil/

The problem with RP is it doesn't handle heat well. Its true ultra high moly oils can clump, it's not recommended for driving with lots of stop and go. RP=M1 in my books, never to be used on a car you care about.
 
#28 ·
You are very right that moly and boron oils do clump and are bad for insides of engines.

The other problem though is that what you are recommending instead have the same base stock that is more volatile, aggressive on seals and is still not good on solubility or dropping what little amount of additives it does contain right into the pan....where it stays.

QuantumBlue is significantly superior to it because it is designed to be. It is not price conscious but performance driven and longevity driven....with many oil analysis posted here to prove it can and does do what we claim!;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
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