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Battery Saver Mode

19K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  cihlenfeld 
#1 ·
Sometimes when I run my car for a long time, I get this message in the EVAC screen says "Battery Saver Mode".
I checked the battery and the alternator by a battery/Alternator checker device, and everything was okay.
I also double checked by multimeter, and noting wrong.

has anyone had this message before?
BTW, my car is 2011 Chrysler 300.

Thanks
 
#2 ·
I sometimes get the message, but only if the temp is above 95*. Nothing else fails or acts up, just the message. New battery and the alternator checks out. Until she starts throwing codes I can't really do anything. There was a recall on the 3.5L for an alternator issue but not the 5.7L. Not sure why not since it's the same alternator.
 
#3 ·
Your alternator is dying.

You need a new one, but Chrysler may replace it for no charge under the Safety Recall P60 / NHTSA 14V-634.

Contact your dealer and see if it applies to your car.
 
#4 ·
Hi Majid,

I was able to locate in a 2016 Chrysler 300 owner's manual o page 308 in the section understanding your instrument panel:
Battery Saver On/Battery Saver Mode Message — Electrical Load Reduction Actions — If Equipped
This vehicle is equipped with an Intelligent Battery
Sensor (IBS) to perform additional monitoring of the
electrical system and status of the vehicle battery.
In cases when the IBS detects charging system failure, or
the vehicle battery conditions are deteriorating, electrical
load reduction actions will take place to extend the
driving time and distance of the vehicle. This is done by
reducing power to or turning off non-essential electrical
loads.
Load reduction is only active when the engine is running.
It will display a message if there is a risk of battery
depletion to the point where the vehicle may stall due to
lack of electrical supply, or will not restart after the
current drive cycle.
When load reduction is activated, the message “Battery
Saver On” or “Battery Saver Mode” will appear in the
Instrument Cluster.
These messages indicate the vehicle battery has a low
state of charge and continues to lose electrical charge at a
rate that the charging system cannot sustain.
The electrical loads that may be switched off (if
equipped), and vehicle functions which can be effected
by load reduction:
• Heated Seat/Vented Seats/Heated Wheel
• Heated/Cooled Cup Holders — If Equipped
• Rear Defroster And Heated Mirrors
• HVAC System
• 115V AC Power Inverter System
• Audio and Telematics System
What to do when an electrical load reduction action
message is present (“Battery Saver On” or “Battery
Saver Mode”)
During a trip:
• Reduce power to unnecessary loads if possible:
– Turn off redundant lights (interior or exterior)
– Check what may be plugged in to power outlets
+12V, 115V AC, USB ports
– Check HVAC settings (blower, temperature)
– Check the audio settings (volume)

I hope this helps.

Thanks.

Lyne
 
#7 ·
Thanks Lyne, That was helpful.

I actually got the recall message P60 through Mycarfax app and I took the vehicle to the dealer. They replaced the alternator along with the battery with no charge, but I still sometimes get this message which led me to ask you guys here.

Moreover, the only mod I did to my car is adding the HID conversion kit. Could that be affecting the electrical system? :confused:

BTW, my 300 is just a base 3.5 model which has no heated seats, power mirrors, or backup system.

The awkward part is when I run the OBD scan at the time the message appears, I don't get any codes, so I guess that nothing wrong with the Alternator since it's new.
 
#5 ·
Last week, I was driving home from work and the battery saver mode message appeared. When I got home, I turned the car off and started it again and the message was gone. I was charging my phone on the way, so I figured it might be that. The radio and ac were on as well.

The next day, I was coming home from work and it appeared again. I wasn't charging my phone this time. Again, I turned the car off when I got home and I started it again and it was gone.

The next day I got it tested at Advance Auto Parts and the man said everything was good. I also tested it on my own and I was getting 12+ volts when it was off and 13+ volts when the car was running.

I researched the recall, but mine is a 180 amp alternator and from what I understand the recall only covered the 160 amp units.

It's been about a week and I haven't seen it since. I'm not too worried about it at this point, but I will post if something changes.
 
#6 ·
If I'm not mistaken, shouldn't the volts be at 14 to 14.2 with the car started? How old is the battery? If it's the original battery, it is almost certainly on its way out, despite what your readings indicate. And if your reading is 13 with the car running, there is your indicator.
 
#10 ·
Well, if this started happening after you did the HID mod, I would focus attention there. If you can undo the mod (probably not easy), and see if it fixes your issue, then there you go. I don't know if anything with the mod can cause your issues, but if that's all you changed prior to the issues, then that kinda narrows things down.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I would call the Chrysler Customer Service # at 800-992-1997 before contacting the dealer. The dealer likely won't do much to help you out. Even though there may not be a recall for your specific model, Chrysler Customer Service may cover it. I had an issue with my 2008 Jeep Liberty a couple of years ago and even though it was by far out of warranty, Chrysler covered everything for me... diagnostics, parts, labor, and even covered a rental car for me for several days. I was really impressed. I picked the dealer I wanted to do the work and Chrysler paid them to do all of the work. Call the phone # and explain your situation/issue. If they say they can't help, asked to have it escalated. That's what I did and it worked out great for me! Good luck!!
 
#12 ·
I had the same issue and was driving me nuts, after lot of electrical and parasitic testing with few new alternators and a battery, found the problem, was the IBS ( intelligence battery Sensor ) which is connected at the negative post on the negative cable, sensor was bad giving wrong input to the car PCM and not allowing to charge. Hope this helps.(y)(y):giggle:
 
#13 ·
You replied to a 6 year old thread, but hopefully it will help someone else in the future. Thanks for the info
 
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