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Type of oil

66K views 188 replies 28 participants last post by  Part Deux 
#1 ·
Hey guys, finally got my new car. I just got a 2014 Dodge Charger RT AWD and I am curious as to what brand of oil everyone uses. I know the manual says a Penzoil or Mopar 5 20. But what fully synthetic oil brand do you guys use and feel is best for your car?

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#2 · (Edited)
If you want the best materials for your Charger R/T you want to get a QuantumBlue 7.5w23 HP Competition Formula 5.7L VVT MDS Hemi V8 Custom Blend. This comes with a QuantumBlue Ultra High Performance High Flow Oil Filter.

This is good for 10,000 miles....which will keep your warranty in place. You want to take great care of it and this is the best way to do it.

You want to know what other think.....this will help:

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158448

We have over 18,000 customers that have Hemi V8 engines and we have a 99% reorder rate with this oil. You have $103.60 for 2 gallons of oil and the QB High Flow Filter.:beerchug:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#3 ·
LOL...

There's a thread or two on "best" oil.

Any commercially available oil is good for 99.999% of Charger owners.
 
#9 · (Edited)
You stated it correctly.....claim.

If you look at the back of that label you will find it states not to exceed your manufacturer's recommendation for change! That throws the 15k out the window as there is no manufacturer that will recommend that long of a change. This is why you need oil analysis to prove what is really happening internally! We just did that with 13,290 miles!

Theirs is marketing.....you were just presented facts!:serious:

Regards,
Brian
BND automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#10 ·
Yes it is a claim which I would have to guess would be legal protection and so dealers can't use it as an excuse to deny a warranty claim. it has great reviews and i feel confident going 10,000 miles with it. I realize you have to protect your product but there are some good oils out there.
 
#14 ·
Many of us have our oil tested. I run for 1 calendar year, which depending on the vehicle is 3-10k. Vehicles that run the higher mileage, do just fine on Mobile 1 extended.
 
#15 · (Edited)
As you well know, not only does our oil contain more anti-wear and anti-scuff compounds, we also have a much larger molecule which cushions the engine better and keeps it quiet.

By the way, we also have a customer that went 18,230 miles on his 5.7L Hemi V8 and was still well within limits.....which is 3,230 miles more than the marketing of Mobil 1 Extended.

For the few dollars more that people spend on our QuantumBlue Custom Blends, they get much more and science to back it up! Our customers do more than just fine, they don't wear instead!




Oh, and one other thing, Exxon Mobil is not on the vendor list and we are. Financially supporting vendors for the site is always a good idea too! We pay for the right of others to have a free forum!


As Deming said......In God we trust, all other must bring facts!;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#16 · (Edited)
I've been using Mobil 1 in the SRT, used it in my R/T as well. Really have no issues with it, but thinking about trying the Quantum Blue stuff.
 
#19 ·
We would welcome you when you are ready. We do a 7.5w40 Hellcat Blend for the 6.4L Hemi V8s and they run great on it. We have 268 Hellcats running it now and over 4,500 392 Hemi V8s running on it. :beerchug:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#17 · (Edited)
BND Oil vs Mobil 1

I found this on the internet, a forum dedicated to Oil and analysis. A comparison of BND oil to Mobil 1 EP. Two year long experiment...
on 2007 Charger Daytona 5.7L with nearly identical usage. Oil changed in the late fall, driven intermittently for a month and then sat for three months then driven on and off through spring, summer, and fall.

Year 2013, Analysis ALS, Oil BND QB 7.5w22, Miles in Use 10,281, Oil added 1 qt, Filter BND, Iron 29, Chromium <1, Lead <1, Copper 70, Tin <1, Aluminum 4, Silicon (Si) 19, Sodium (Na) 12, Potassium (K) <5, Magnesium (Mg) 51, Calcium (Ca) 2082 , Barium (Ba) < 1, Phosphorus (P) 758, Zinc (Zn) 918, Molybdenum (Mo) 79, Boron (B) 45


2014, Blackstone Analysis, Mobile 1 EP, 5W20, Miles in use 9,432, Oil added 1 qt, Filter: Napa Gold, Iron 28, Chromium 1, Lead 1, Copper 57, Tin 0, Aluminum 3, Silicon (Si) 7, Sodium (Na) 9, Potassium (K) 1, Magnesium (Mg) 660, Calcium (Ca) 1242, Barium (Ba) Not Reported, Phosphorus (P) 656, Zinc (Zn) 772, Molybdenum (Mo) 77, Boron (B) 49


Two different labs but ASL and Blackstone are presented in this thread. LOL
I use Mobil 1 now after using BND oil. Just too much $$ and the numbers are the same. You gonna argue about 1 part per million? Just my 2 cents.

Does anyone have a picture of the BND manufacturing facility and have the address for it other than a post office box? Going to Cleveland this year and would like to see what this place looks like.:beerchug:
 
#18 · (Edited)
I found this on the internet, a forum dedicated to Oil and analysis. A comparison of BND oil to Mobil 1 EP. Two year long experiment...
on 2007 Charger Daytona 5.7L with nearly identical usage. Oil changed in the late fall, driven intermittently for a month and then sat for three months then driven on and off through spring, summer, and fall.

Year 2013, Analysis ALS, Oil BND QB 7.5w22, Miles in Use 10,281, Oil added 1 qt, Filter BND, Iron 29, Chromium <1, Lead <1, Copper 70, Tin <1, Aluminum 4, Silicon (Si) 19, Sodium (Na) 12, Potassium (K) <5, Magnesium (Mg) 51, Calcium (Ca) 2082 , Barium (Ba) < 1, Phosphorus (P) 758, Zinc (Zn) 918, Molybdenum (Mo) 79, Boron (B) 45


2014, Blackstone Analysis, Mobile 1 EP, 5W20, Miles in use 9,432, Oil added 1 qt, Filter: Napa Gold, Iron 28, Chromium 1, Lead 1, Copper 57, Tin 0, Aluminum 3, Silicon (Si) 7, Sodium (Na) 9, Potassium (K) 1, Magnesium (Mg) 660, Calcium (Ca) 1242, Barium (Ba) Not Reported, Phosphorus (P) 656, Zinc (Zn) 772, Molybdenum (Mo) 77, Boron (B) 49


Two different labs but ASL and Blackstone are presented in this thread. LOL
I use Mobil 1 now after using BND oil. Just too much $$ and the numbers are the same. You gonna argue about 1 part per million? Just my 2 cents.

Does anyone have a picture of the BND manufacturing facility and have the address for it other than a post office box? Going to Cleveland this year and would like to see what this place looks like.:beerchug:
Here is the thing, If you do a Mobil 1 sample first and get the numbers those are what Mobil 1 does inside an engine.

If you do a QuantumBlue Oil change, and then a Mobil 1 change it is going to be skewed because of the anti-wear effects of Quantum-A and Quantum-B compounds that have residual effects which help the Mobil 1 sample where it would not normally have that low a number.

Also it is curious that your numbers for magnesium and phosphorous are way off of our QuantumBlue materials for a 5.7L engine. We make 195 to 250 magnesium as you can see in many of our oil analysis. Yours claims to have our QB at magnesium at 51. Too low. Also you have our phosphorous at 758 and we never make an engine oil with less than 1300 phosphorous and more like 3,000 to 5,000 ppm. So again way to low. Also, yes, you had both bearing wear and ring wear with the Mobil 1 that we didn't have...but still question the sample!

2nd or third oil change would show like what iamstubb found and that is the wear started to go back up in his chart and then he went back to QB and his numbers dropped.

Also the over 18,000 customers we have with Hemi engines all respond to the differences the engines sound like an perform with our oils in it. They use words like smooth, effortless and quiet to describe the experience compared to Mobil 1, RP, Pennzoil or any other oil. I just talked to a new customer that has a 2500 Ram 5.7L Hemi. He had been to the dealership 3 times for the noise coming from his truck. We did a combination of ACES IV and a QB Custom Blend and his noises are gone. He was raving about it. Happens all the time!

As far as the oil is concerned, it would be the same as using ACES IV in an engine and then stopping as opposed to running an engine without ACES IV and then adding it.

You can't go backwards and not take advantage of our unique materials. Any scientist will tell you that.....and it is true!


On our facility, we don't manufacture in Sagamore Hills as that is my Home office. I don't always go to our manufacturing facility.

But since you asked, here are some pictures of our facility - remember it is industrial in nature and not really glamorous or pretty:

Our bottling machine that bottles ACES IV in quarts, gallons, 2.5 gallon and other sizes for customers:




Storing of some raw materials and boxes for shipment:


Cases of materials either shipping out or coming in as raw materials:




Drums of finished product and storage:



One of our warehouse guys moving diesel materials around for shipment:



Our high speed line for gallons of ACES IV:





About 260 gallons of ACES IV:



375 gallon tote of ACES Diesel Formula



7 totes going to the oil and gas industry - That is enough to treat 5,250,000 gallons of diesel fuel!:



Yes, we do have manufacturing. Don't let a P.O. Box worry any of you!;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#20 ·
While chatting with my dealer's SA today about other things, I inquired as to their rates for oil changes when the time comes for my Charger.
My inquiry was regarding the 5.7L Hemi only.

#1 . Semi-synthetic Pennzoil w/OEM filter was $36.00

#2 . Full synthetic Pennzoil w/OEM filter was $73.00

#3 . Bringing my own oil, and them supplying the OEM filter was $23.00.

In all cases, they deal with the mess, and dispose of the old oil and filter which appeals to me.
If I can find the Pennzoil Ultra at a good price, I will supply that and take option #3 .

Don
 
#21 ·
Yes, $23.00 + $7.60 x 7 per quart of Pennzoil ultra 5w20 = $80.46 or use the $73.00 price. Question is for how long? 5,000 miles is about all you want to run that.

So even so, 13,290, 11,027, 16,600 and 14,000 miles on QuantumBlue. Why would you not at least try our materials. It has proven performance and you can still go to your oil change facility with our materials and they clean up the mess. For $90.65 and be able to go 3 times longer!

Just wondering.:serious:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#23 · (Edited)
Very confused - ACES

Ok Brian, Now that you have posted pictures of your manufacturing facility can you tell me why those pictures are of the American Clean Energy Systems facility? Before you delete the pictures in your photobucket I captured one. The link below is from your website that at the very bottom states. "BND Automotive LLC is NOT affiliated in any way with American Clean Energy Systems Inc. Volant PA."

http://bndautomotive.com/about/

http://s705.photobucket.com/user/370Hemi/media/AcesChinesePictures32406001.jpg.html
 

Attachments

#26 ·
Ok Brian, Now that you have posted pictures of your manufacturing facility can you tell me why those pictures are of the American Clean Energy Systems facility? Before you delete the pictures in your photobucket I captured one. The link below is from your website that at the very bottom states. "BND Automotive LLC is NOT affiliated in any way with American Clean Energy Systems Inc. Volant PA."

http://bndautomotive.com/about/

http://s705.photobucket.com/user/370Hemi/media/AcesChinesePictures32406001.jpg.html
Yes, we do say that. What is your point? We made materials for them years ago when we were the same company. There was some confusion about ACES and BND with industrial users. It split off into two different companies. We are now Advanced Combustion Engineered Solutions LLC today in Ohio. What is the big deal? The pictures are from Ohio except from the PA facility from a few years ago. Those machines were moved to Ohio in 2015.

No big deal here.:smile2:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#29 ·
Brian:
Your invite to try BND products is noted and appreciated. I think we all have our own opinions about what is good for (or maybe not) for our cars, and that is what makes "the world go around." I myself am more of an oem style fellow in many respects, although oil is one area where I don't necessarily hold to that.
I have no reason to think that your products are anything other than what you claim. It seems that many use and enjoy them, so you must be doing something right.

In my scenario, as mentioned before I know that as long as I am using FCA equivalent products for my Charger, they will have no basis to deny coverage under my Lifetime Maximum Care policy. I intend on holding onto it for a long time, otherwise the CPO 7yr/100K powertrain warranty would have been sufficient.
As a 51 year old guy who could not afford it until now, I want it to look good, last, and be dependable.

If one were to ask my .02 cents on this topic, my reply would be this:
If you like BND products, use them. If you already have another product that you are comfortable with, then use that.
This great country that we live in has enough drama and hostility going on that we sure don't (IMO) need it here.
In any case, certainly not over what oil/filter one does or does not run in their Charger.

Don
 
#30 · (Edited)
Don,

Thank you for saying what you believe. I have no issue with what you are saying. We never recommend anyone to use our oil longer than the manufacturer requires while under warranty.

What protects you with your warranty is actually not Chrysler but the Magnuson Moss Act. This act...which is Federal in nature...states that a manufacturer of a parts, materials and workmanship warranty can not void that warranty just because a customer uses an aftermarket part or product......unless....burden of proof from the manufacturer NOT the user.....that it caused any damage or failure.

This is why your warranty booklet "recommends" that you use an API Spec'd oil and the MS-6395. The other is not to exceed 10,000 miles or 1 year on the oil.



If you exceed API quality standards like using QB, they can't void your warranty because you use it. I am only making this statement because people have used the words "requires" and that is not true.

The page 540 is from the 2014 Charger book on oil changes. You will notice that they say for best performance and maximum protection use these. What is not understood here is that it is because people are cheap and would rather put bling or other things in their cars as opposed to oil or differential fluid or coolants that are appropriate. However if using QB is greater than appropriate then you can protect your engine better than the standards and spend less money doing it. They don't care if you use something that is better than the spec, just not worse than the spec.

Many people will be "scared" by the warranty statement but they don't have to be.

One thing about me that many do not know is that I used to work for a 5 Billion Dollar Company directly with GM, Ford, Chrysler and Honda. My job was to address problems in combustion and lubricity for them. It is amazing how much the external companies that bring in lubricants are depended on to advise the internal engineers. I always had a differing opinion than the internal bean counters because they were looking for the cheapest way out and I always thought it best to do what was right for the customer even if it cost more to do so that the customer would have good will towards the manufacturer because the vehicle was more trouble free. What I found was the 4.6 to 5.8 years of life and then they depended on people to buy a new one to keep things going. They didn't....... "want 20 year old cars out there" So 17 years ago I started this company so that we could be free to do what was right for the customer and make some money in the process. It is with this passion that I continue to "entreat" people here because they are my Mopar/Chrysler-Dodge brothers and sisters. We always want to help others take care of their materials because we know what is best in Tribology as this is my 37th year of experience. I too am over 50....actually 54.

Sector 2...who is a peace officer in Hawaii...was using QB in his patrol car (2013 Charger R/T) and his camshaft cracked in half causing it to run really rough. He took it to the dealership who ascertained that the cam broke in half due to a defect in the cam and nothing to do with the oils. He had it repaired under the parts, materials and workmanship warranty no questions asked.

QuantumBlue will not void your warranty and does not cause failures. Best of all, the difference in how it runs in the engines is significant.

Thank you for your post. Maybe at some point you may consider using our materials and we will welcome you if and when you do. I know your car will for sure!;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
 
#31 ·
For folks who may be seeking a source for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W20, I have located it at my local NAPA store in nearby Ross, Ohio. They do not stock the Ultra, but will order it. The price appears to be $36+ tax for a 5 quart container.

FYI/YMMV

Don
 
#33 ·
Crysalis owns a 2012 Dodge Charger R/T and runs the QuantumBlue 7.5w23 HP Competition formula.

He went 12,000 miles on one oil change with our QB Ultra HP Oil Filter.



17 ppm Iron from the bore - 17 div by 12 (in thousand miles) = 1.41 part per million of wear per 1,000 miles. Would take 500,000 miles to wear this bore out at this rate.

0 ppm Chromium from the ring - No ring wear at all in 12 thousand miles. Can't get better than zero wear!

0 Lead from the cam, crank or main bearings. No bearing wear at all in 12 thousand miles. Can't get better than zero wear!

15 ppm copper - since there is no lead this is again cooler and perfectly fine.

4 aluminum - 4 div by 12 = 33/100ths of 1 part per million of piston wear. Virtually nothing!

Zero Nickel - no valve wear at all. Again, can't get better than zero!

Magnesium is detergent, dispersant and anti-foaming agent - 127 ppm. Typical Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil etc have between 19 and 25 ppm. We have much more detergent to keep the engine clean at the end of the drain interval than they have at the beginning.

Calcium Carbonate to mitigate acids - 1,803 ppm. Anything above 1,000 is great for acids.

Phosphorus is your extreme anti-wear compound. 2,948 ppm. This is neutral and not acidic like Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil and every other oil on the market. Typical phosphorous is 605 ppm and are all acidic....ours is neutral.

Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate (ZnDDP). 891 ppm. We end up with more high quality zinc than the others start out with. Remember that ZDP is different than ZnDDP. You have to multiply the ZDP number x 3 to = ZnDDP. 891 x 3 = 2,673 ZDP value. Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil and every other uses ZDP not ZnDDP. We do.

Moly and Boron are small anti-wear compounds and are fine at 44 and 32.

PQ index is micro-gram wear. 10 and and under is saying zero. No micro-gram wear at all in this sample.

The cost is $ 90.65 for Crysalis.

$90.65 div by 12 = $7.55 per 1000 miles of driving to get zero wear.

Using N8ECH and his Pennzoil $36.00 + tax = $38.88 for 5 quarts or $7.776 per quart. $7.776 x 7 = $54.432 + 9.68 Wix filter = $64.112 div by 5,000 = $12.8224 per 1000 miles of driving.

So $7.55 per 1000 miles or $12.8224 per 1000 miles of driving. Since there isn't any wear in major components using our materials. Economics tells the story also.;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#34 ·
---
Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
Brian, I've ordered your products in the past. I did 2 runs of QB oil in my 5.7 HEMI, along with a gallon of ACES IV.

Personally, I did not notice any miracle benefits as some people have. No difference in my HEMI tick. No difference in power. No difference in fuel mileage. Noticeable differences I might add - I did not scientifically measure. I have not re-ordered since, so I must be in your <1% of people who haven't re-ordered. If your product is vastly superior as you say, of course I'd love to use it. But I just feel like there isn't enough information out there to warrant it, and considering I'm within my warranty period, I don't want to touch the stuff. "Recommendations" on engine oil from the manual aside, my manuals clearly state no more than 6mo./6,000 mile intervals on my SRT 392 engine. My 5.7 HEMI states no more than 8 mo./8,000 miles. Even if I wanted to run your stuff, it would extremely cost prohibitive given the strict mileage/time requirements set forth by the maintenance interval.

Magnusson Moss act be damned, no car manufacturer gives 2 shits about it. Sure, it's designed to protect the consumer, but it is not easily enforced. Enjoy the drawn out and expensive lawsuit that would follow if you felt the need to use it.

I'm curious how big this business operation is. You claim around 18,000 yearly customers, correct? So that would pin you at about at least 50 orders per day. But you also have weekends, and holidays so you have to catch up from there. Plus high mileage per year customers would likely need to re-order more often than once per year. Each time I've contacted your company, it appears to be a direct line to your cellphone, and it sounds like you're the one packaging and shipping all the product.


-How is it possible that you can handle this much volume in what appears to be a very small or solo business operation?

-Why is your product only visible on a select few forums where you market it? If this is truly a miracle set of products you have (all kinds of fluids and cleaners/protectants), the high performance enthusiast market would be all over this, yet there is hardly any mention of you anywhere outside the FCA forum world.

-Why is there no publicity? Sure, the industry you're competing against wouldn't care about some small, custom-blend business venture, but plenty of automotive journalism outlets would. I've seen you link to the old magazine article about ACES IV and its positive effects in wear reduction/elimination in a controlled engine test experiment, but that is it.

Surely you want to profit as much as possible from this business venture, so it would make sense for you to be pushing for publicity and increasing sales volume. It would make sense for you to have updated pictures of your manufacturing and business process. I really want to believe everything you're saying, but something just doesn't seem right about all this.

I'd also like to know if you're using group V base stock in your oil now. I know Red Line oils are. Speaking of which, they seem to be the kind of company you are, except they've addressed all the concerns I have about your company. They are a high performance/enthusiast based oil company, with plenty of publicity, tours of their manufacturing, and are clearly an established business at this point. Why can't we definitively say the same about BND?
 
#35 · (Edited)
I swore I would never post anything else on this forum but you nailed it IMO. I am not bashing anyone that uses his products, like I said in the other thread it is up to you to decide. I somehow got folks upset who use this stuff, thinking I was frowning on their usage. Not the case. I have always said it is your car and do what makes you happy, performance or cosmetic.

Like a lot of the research I did before posting, the same concerns you mentioned, are also mentioned on these forums. Large volume, single POC, no way to check anything and only the word of mouth to go on. Posting PICs of the previous manufacturing facility, which Brian did on his own explaining each and every picture, just did not set well and confirmed a lot of what the other forums were stating.

I seems like every time someone asks a performance question we get Brians two page handout on how much horsepower you will get, how better the MPG will be and how you are protecting your engine. I tested Brian's stuff, ran oil, coolant and ACES IV before and after dyno's showed no difference in power and I did not measure any increase in MPG.

I had to get a crank sensor solenoid replaced when using Quantum Blue and found out that they are very sensitive to oil viscosity. It was most likely a bad sensor. Who knows. I do know all the info that is constantly posted on this forum with regards to the benefits are so outdated it makes me laugh. The magazine clips on the power gains/benefits ect were written a long time ago when I am assuming there was just one company and before what he states he formed his own group. So who did that work and what is being sold?

I posted a comparison of MOBIL 1 and also of BND on the same car (post #17 ) and it showed no difference. But Brian, as always, has an answer and it was because the first oil was BND and the second change was the MOBIL 1.

How many comparisons have there been on BND vs a premium brand (API certified) oil? All I ever saw was the constant posting of lab results of customers results using BND. How much different would the results have been if MOBIL 1 were use first and then BND in the results I provided?


I still find it strange that Brian would post old pictures of production facility that he has no current connection with today. IMO that is just deceiving. Posting above and below each picture an explanation of what it is. So, currently, there are no UPDATED pictures of the product being made and sold this or last or the year before that.

I WOULD HOPE THAT OTHERS ON THIS FORUM,, IF THEY HAD CONCERNS ABOUT A PRODUCT WOULD ALSO SHARE THEIR VIEWS AND ASK QUESTIONS, WHETHER FOLKS LIKE THE VIEWS OR NOT.

So for all I know (JUST ME) the products I purchased that did no good could have been a mixture of quality oils, and gasoline treatment mixtures poured into containers with labels created on an ink jet printer. Like it has been stated on this forum and others, thousands of repeat customers and one cell phone number for the company. One post office box. ONLY ONE FORUM (CHARGERFORUMS.COM) THAT HE IS AN ACTIVE MEMBER SELLING HIS PRODUCT
 
#39 · (Edited)
I swore I would never post anything else on this forum but you nailed it IMO. I am not bashing anyone that uses his products, like I said in the other thread it is up to you to decide. I somehow got folks upset who use this stuff, thinking I was frowning on their usage. Not the case. I have always said it is your car and do what makes you happy, performance or cosmetic.

Like a lot of the research I did before posting, the same concerns you mentioned, are also mentioned on these forums. Large volume, single POC, no way to check anything and only the word of mouth to go on. Posting PICs of the previous manufacturing facility, which Brian did on his own explaining each and every picture, just did not set well and confirmed a lot of what the other forums were stating.

I seems like every time someone asks a performance question we get Brians two page handout on how much horsepower you will get, how better the MPG will be and how you are protecting your engine. I tested Brian's stuff, ran oil, coolant and ACES IV before and after dyno's showed no difference in power and I did not measure any increase in MPG.

I had to get a crank sensor solenoid replaced when using Quantum Blue and found out that they are very sensitive to oil viscosity. It was most likely a bad sensor. Who knows. I do know all the info that is constantly posted on this forum with regards to the benefits are so outdated it makes me laugh. The magazine clips on the power gains/benefits ect were written a long time ago when I am assuming there was just one company and before what he states he formed his own group. So who did that work and what is being sold?

I posted a comparison of MOBIL 1 and also of BND on the same car (post #17 ) and it showed no difference. But Brian, as always, has an answer and it was because the first oil was BND and the second change was the MOBIL 1.

How many comparisons have there been on BND vs a premium brand (API certified) oil? All I ever saw was the constant posting of lab results of customers results using BND. How much different would the results have been if MOBIL 1 were use first and then BND in the results I provided?

VERY LAST POST ON THIS FORUM!, last bit of questions that will never be answered IMO. Use the fluids that you are comfortable with. If it is BND, heck it is not my car so why should I care? I WAS ONLY PROVIDING MY OPINION AND ASKING QUESTIONS BECAUSE OF THE OLD PICTURES BRIAN POSTED CLAIMING TO BE HIS FACILITY IN USE TODAY. I WAS ALSO ASKING QUESTIONS I SAW ON OTHER FORUMS ABOUT HIS PRODUCT THAT "THEY" NEVER GOT ANSWERS TO. I WAS ASKING QUESTIONS BECAUSE I DID NOT GAIN ANY BENEFITS FROM USING HIS PRODUCT. I COULD SEE IF FOLKS GOT MAD AT ME FOR POSTING THIS IF I HAD NEVER USED AND COMPARED AND TESTED. MY TESTS, MY QUESTIONS, MY CONCERNS AND I OFFER NO APOLOGY.

I still find it strange that Brian would post old pictures of production facility that he has no current connection with today. IMO that is just deceiving. Posting above and below each picture an explanation of what it is. So, currently, there are no UPDATED pictures of the product being made and sold this or last or the year before that.

I WOULD HOPE THAT OTHERS ON THIS FORUM,, IF THEY HAD CONCERNS ABOUT A PRODUCT WOULD ALSO SHARE THEIR VIEWS AND ASK QUESTIONS, WHETHER FOLKS LIKE THE VIEWS OR NOT.

So for all I know (JUST ME) the products I purchased that did no good could have been a mixture of quality oils, and gasoline treatment mixtures poured into containers with labels created on an ink jet printer. Like it has been stated on this forum and others, thousands of repeat customers and one cell phone number for the company. One post office box. ONLY ONE FORUM (CHARGERFORUMS.COM) THAT HE IS AN ACTIVE MEMBER SELLING HIS PRODUCT
I have addressed all these and am not going to keep getting into this over and over. What we make is of issue not where and how. There are thousands of oil analysis to prove what we are claiming. What good is putting out a 6,000 mile oil change compared to 12,000, 14,000, 16,600, 17,349, 18,230 miles. This is 2 to 3 times longer and better protection.

Did you ever call me back and say hey, I am not getting what you claimed? What can we do about this? Is there another of the 400 formulas you have that might work better? NO.

Just silence and then evaporation. Then you didn't buy anything and that was the end. I don't have time to chase every customer. We could have changed the formulate on the ACES IV with the modifications you did. Did you ever consider that the way your were tuning the car was too fat? If there is too much fuel then the power goes down with ACES IV because it is a wet fuel and not a dry fuel like most all tuners want to work with. Rich strangles combustion.

The pictures are from the present facility except for the larger bottle line which we moved to Ohio in 2015. It is still our equipment.

I am sorry you didn't take the time to communicate with me. I am always here and always answer the phone......did you call us? NO.


Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#36 ·
If you google Blackstone Lab for oil testing you will find a lot of results that are as good as the Universal Average. Doing a little better than the average does what for you engine? How much longer will it last? MOBIL 1 report from an Audi 3.0
 

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#38 ·
Is this your lastest last post or last lastest post or last post prior to posing your last post or a post prior to the last post of the last post you were going to post?

Just kidding :) We all love our cars, that's why were all so passionate and have our opinions, which is great! Use what makes you happy and gives you piece of mind.

Most importantly, enjoy many miles of driving a Charger/Challenger/300!!!!
 
#46 ·


I find it absolutely amazing how every thread about oil on this forum turns into an absolute shit show.

Never seen anything like it on any other forum.

Its

Just

Oil
 
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#47 ·
Well tacamo01 has his panties in a bunch.
 
#48 ·
OP, I've used Valvoline full synthetic since I bought the car. I first changed the oil at 6k miles. Change two was at 12,000. Now I'm sitting at 20,500 mi and about to do another. If my engine breaks down due to oil I'll be the first to post and admit it.

All I do is check the oil level once a month and follow the oil life meter or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first.

We're not driving spaceships.
 
#49 ·
I agree, just oil. For me, I'm paying the dealer to change the oil with the Pennzoil full synth that they keep on hand until the warranty runs out. After that, I'm switching to Quaker State like my other cars use. Been using Quaker State since I started driving over 30 years ago, and it's always done me well. My dad has been using it since sometime in the 1950s, never had an oil related problem. The only oil-related failure I've ever had was related to a damaged oil filter. When I pull down engines with Quaker State, all I ever find is that brown sheen that hot oil gives metal, with perhaps a marginal amount of varnish in the top corners of the valve covers. The rest of the engine is always spotless.
 
#50 · (Edited)
Once again, these are nice anecdotal statements but are opinion based without any factual data at all. My engine is still running so everything must be good. That is nice as most people don't understand what is happening inside and don't really realize that differences in oil has significant determination on life expectancy of the engine and how it will function during that life. Eat cheap food and get sick quicker. Eat healthy food and live a better quality of life and much longer. The statement that "Oil is oil" is like saying tires are just tires, brakes are just brakes shift solenoids are just shift solenoids, radiators are just radiators and fuel is just fuel! What does that even mean?

There are significant differences in tires, brakes, shift solenoids, radiators, fuel......and oil. Since we don't make the other things, we focus our energies on fuel and oil and that we do extremely well! Without actual data to prove what is happening....statements like my Dad used this and it is fine when oil is so significantly different from even 3 years ago let alone in the 1950s. This is like saying my Father used an IBM 3600 with punch cards as a computer in his company and that was good enough for him. He would not use that machine today and wouldn't have used it then if a better product was available which was better and cost effective!

We have gone since the 1950s from:

SB oil- Obsolete -CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SC oil- Obsolete -CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1967. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SD oil -Obsolete -CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1971. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SE oil -Obsolete -CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1979.

SF oil -Obsolete -CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1988. May not provide adequate protection against build-up of engine sludge.

SG oil -CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1993. May not provide adequate protection against build-up of engine sludge, oxidation, or wear.

SH oil - CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1996. May not provide adequate protection against build-up of engine sludge, oxidation, or wear.

SJ oil - For 2001 and older automotive engines.

SL oil - For 2004 and older automotive engines.

SM oil- For 2010 and older automotive engines.

SN oil-Introduced in October 2010, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.

People today get SN oils even if the engine is older. The trend in oil today is to become multi-vehicle capable which means the spec for the most recent superceeds the need for previous specs because they no longer want to make a bunch of oil specs so some guy on a computer says backwords compatible when it really is insufficient. People don't know enough and so feelings.....not fact....dictate along with opinions like what we are getting here!

In a 7 quart system that is 1.75 gallons of oil. This must be pumped through the engine to take away heat. 30% of your heat is taken away by your oil! Oil is blood for your engine.

If your engine is moving up to 20 quarts per minute that means that at pressure between 50 and 80 psi you are moving your entire oil volume through the system...and filter....2.86 times per minute.

The size of the molecule that can absorb heat matters. How that molecule reacts to the heat, what additives it moves with it and when does it drop the additives never to pick them up again etc.

Small molecule oils pump faster but can't carry a lot of heat. Larger molecules pump a little slower but can carry much more heat at one time along with consistent additive suspension (solubility). The term thermal and viscosity shear is a real factor in an engine! Shear is tearing the molecule apart based on pressure and heat without the ability to come back together again. The additives fall to the bottom, are used up and the oil starts causing wear and sometimes very quickly. Without oil analysis you really don't know what is going on.

The lack of magnesium causes the engines to have build up problems. Typical off the shelf oils have between 5 an 19 ppm magnesium

Zinc in ZDP is anti-rust and anti-scuff but in minimum amounts so more scuff and rust occur especially where moisture is prevalent

Acidic phosphorous is your anti-wear and it is acidic to start with and the SN spec is 600 to 800 ppm with most oils. This is low for continual wear protection. I have seen some more recent samples of this in the 485 range. This is the new trend.

We don't think this is a good trend and work to produce materials that are significantly better for a little more money up front but a longer drain interval instead.

People don't care because they don't know and just depend on their oil supplier to do an adequate job. The problem is that most people don't know is that the distribution chain is also to blame for the problems.

$6.95 quart of oil has 40% profit for the retailer - cost them $4.17. Sub-wholesaler needs 30% profit so he paid $2.92. Wholesaler paid $2.04 and the manufacturer who tells the Tribologist (like me) to make the very best oil he can but including the packaging, bottling, labeling, and contents is $1.53 cost with a 25% profit built in. From the $1.53 to the $6.95 is $5.42 of transportation, warehousing and profit. This is the wrong way to make a lubricant and the reason that we are seeing camshaft failures and oil burning issues with these cheap thin low quality high profit margin oils.

We think we have a better way of doing it more like going to Home Depot or Lowes to get a specific paint color and type for the exact application you are painting. Not everyones paint but specifically your paint for your specific application. We make lubricants with the same idea with real good magnesium...diesel quality, and real Zinc (ZnDDP) and neutral not acidic phosphorous for extreme anti-wear and a great calcium carbonate in a molecule that is like a beach ball and not a ping-pong ball.

This really doesn't have to be hard but with the attitude of oil is oil the opinions and feelings will get us nowhere but repairs and early wearing out!;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#52 ·
....statements like my Dad used this and it is fine when oil is so significantly different from even 3 years ago let alone in the 1950s. This is like saying my Father used an IBM 3600 with punch cards as a computer in his company and that was good enough for him. He would not use that machine today and wouldn't have used it then if a better product was available which was better and cost effective!
I am reasonably sure that Telco is not using some cache of Quaker State oil that has been in storage since the 50s. They still make the stuff, no? And I'm sure it's just as advanced as other leading oils.

And just because I said "It's just oil" doesn't mean I would put any old crap in my car; I use Mobile 1 and have for all 3 of my SRTs.

I just mean that arguing incessantly about the minutia of different oil products is futile. I am sure that the top products from the leading manufacturers are very compatible.

So these threads are kinda like the "Tastes great" vs "Less Filling" debate. Pointless.

















in before your 2,000 word dissertation and response
 
#54 ·
u r 1 cheeky k*nt, m8

:slap:
 
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#56 · (Edited)
I don't understand all the hate for this Brian guy.

Personally, I believe what he says about his product. I believe it is superior to Mobil 1, Royal Purple, or whatever else top notch oil we all think we use. He has shown too many proven facts to consider otherwise. That being said, I'm not sure if using what we all like or have grown accustomed to is necessarily ruining our cars. I've only been on this site for a few years and it seems that this oil discussion is endless.

What I take from this whole discussion is that Brian's oil is superior. How many different ways does he have to show us? Similar to what he said, our Mobil 1 or whatever we are using is like eating pizza every day, it won't kill us, it'll get the job done, but there is something much better. It's like comparing Budweiser to a craft beer. One is mass produced, the other is made carefully in small batches. If you think Budweiser is a fine beer then you're full of crap.

I've never used his products, I use Mobil 1. Have in my SRT and R/T. Before that I'd take whatever turd I was driving to Walmart for some Super Tech. I've never had any oil issues with any vehicle I've owned. I've driven cars with 150+ miles on junk oil. Some will see the benefits, others may not. I just don't get all the hate for this guy. He's simply answering questions with facts. One guy here is all butthurt about a picture and everyone piles on. Maybe I'm wrong, but I think all of the negativety towards him is unwarranted.
 
#57 ·
The thread has been beaten to death. Is there a way to close it or something. Everyone has their own opinion. We don't need a vendors oil shoved down out throat every couple of posts.
 
#58 ·
Who TF are you? Just joined and 15% of your posts are bashing Brians stuff. Unsubscribe if it annoys you.

I used his products from 500 miles on my SRT 392, did only 3 oil changes traded it in at 44,000 Miles. I drove my car like I stole it and the engine shows 0 wear despite being moderately modified. ASk Brian to show you those reports.

I'll be doing the exact same with my 2016 Hellcat, In fact he's getting me a quote for it now. If you wanna change your oil every 6000 miles with some Mcdonalds brand Oil, knock yourself out Chief.

I'll keep changing out every 15k, saving money and knowing my engine will be protected long term.
 
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