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Help with Mopar suspension upgrade

8K views 10 replies 2 participants last post by  shortfuse 
#1 ·
I have an 06 Dodge Charger R/T with R&T. I know it's time for an upgrade, but I love this car and have done all the upkeep on it myself so it's got sentimental value. The OEM suspension looks to be in good condition, but the ride was rough so I bought a set of Bilstein shocks (Mopar suspension upgrade P5155435). I got the fronts off easily enough, and assembled the new fronts. At wasn't until this point that I noticed the notch on the new struts is larger where it connects to the lower control arm, than the EOM struts. Thinking I bought the wrong part, I checked compatibility but the website clearly states that 09-10 models need to shim the lower control arm. Apparently 06 models do as well. I'd rather not use 10 washers to shim these things. Anyone have a better idea to shim, or know if I can get a thicker lower control arm?
 

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#2 ·
What they sold you is a strut for a 2011 model and telling you how to "make it work".
What you need is a spacer. Not sure how they want you to do this, I would guess you would put a spacer on front and also one on back to keep the strut centered over the control arm.
First get the correct bolt, a grade 8 bolt would be the best. Take the old strut and new strut and bolt to a machine shop, explain what your doing and what you need. They'll take measurements of both struts and bolt and cut you some spacers.

Hope this helps.
Shortfuse
 
#3 ·
Well that sucks. I would prefer a strut that's made for my car. I would have bought some coilovers or something if I thought these weren't the correct struts. I'm not rigging them. I'll remove the springs and send them back if this is the case. Thanks.
 
#4 ·
Seems as though everyone with a 2010 or older charger who ordered the upgrade kit recently has had the same issue.
Call Mopar, this is happening to a lot of people, they may have a fix other than longer bolts and spacers.
Call bilstein, see if they're willing to switch out the front struts with the correct model for your car, you might have to pay shipping.

Shortfuse
 
#5 ·
I'm getting nowhere fast. I've emailed and left messages with moparonlineparts and have yet to receive a response or a call back in the last 5 days. It sucks because I've bought a ton of parts from them, and now I'm getting no love. I've researched enough though, and you are correct that this kit (part P5155435AD) is meant for 2011 and up models.

Returning these is no longer an option since moparonlineparts isn't responding and I've already dinged up the springs getting them mounted on the struts. So I'm looking at two options.

1. Will a 2011+ lower control arm fit a 2006 R/T? It will have to be pretty much the same connection at the joint where the control arm connects to the sub frame, and be otherwise similar except for the width of the control arm. Not looking forward to changing out the control arms, but if I have to...

2. Call Bilstein for the correct struts and sell the front 2011 front struts.
 
#6 ·
I believe the front control arms are slightly different starting in the 2011 year in regards to mounting points on the frame and knuckle.
From your picture it looks to be about a half inch difference between the two. If that's the case then you're looking at (2) 1/4" spacers, one for each side. In my opinion, not a huge difference.

It's your choice, but if you're stuck with them, you might as well try. If you go this route, get the oem bolts from Chrysler,
part #6507620AA
Get some spacers and torque everything down to spec.

Another option, replace the bushings on the control arms. It's basically just a canned rubber bushing that gets pushed out with a press and you press in the new one. Any auto shop will have a press and would be able to replace them. If you can measure the outer diameter of the bushing on a 2011 model, you'll be able to compare it to your car to see if they're the same diameter.

I personally think the spacer is your best bet. Other bolts on your car have oversized washers/spacers on them.

Shortfuse
 
#7 ·
I might just try and make them work, as it is just about 3/4" difference in width. I'm more worried about the height of the strut. It's identical the height of the OEM strut, except for that bracket. So not only is the bracket larger in width, it's also about a 3/4" difference in height. I'm worried that there will be a gap between the strut and the top of the control arm, placing all the weight solely on that bolt.

I contacted Bilstein who, despite being pretty rude, confirmed the front struts are not meant for 2006-2010 models. He gave me the model numbers for the correct struts, and I may just buy them and sell the front 2011 struts. It might be easier to buy a whole new set, and sell the entire 2011 kit.

Thanks for all the help and advice. This forum has saved me thousands of dollars.
 
#8 ·
For anyone else who may need this info, I contacted Bulstein to see if any of the parts in Mopar's suspension upgrade kit would fit an 06-10 model. After learning the front struts didn't fit, I started second guessing the rears and springs. Since the springs are Eibach, Bilstein couldn't help with that. They did say that the rear strut part numbers are different for 06-10 models than 11+.

So I contacted Mopar actual, in hopes they could shed some light on the springs. Here is there response:

"Thank you for your recent inquiry to Mopar.com.
Fitment of suspension kit P5155435AD has been changed to fit only 2011
and newer vehicles. The only difference is the width of the lower front strut opening. This kit can be used on 2010 and prior vehicle by changing the lower control arms to 5168389AB. This has the matching larger bushing for the strut and is a very good upgrade for a 2010 and
older vehicle.

Hopefully the control arm is an easy swap.
 
#9 ·
The control arm is a fairly easy swap, I would suggest getting a ball joint separator if you don't already have one. You can get one from harbor freight for under $25.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
The frame bolts for the control arm are located behind a plate under the sway bar mounting bolts. You'll need a 12mm hex key.

This is the technique I use to remove ball joints, very effective, very fast.


Since you're going to be in there doing all this work, you might as well do some preventive maintenance, I would be tempted to replace the ball joint on the knuckle, you should be able to rent a ball joint removal tool from your local auto parts store, and also replace the lower, front, forward control arm and also the upper control arm. Both control arms will have ball joints already installed. Inspect your brakes, if they're more than half way gone, replace those as well. Finally, when everything is back together, get your car down to a shop for a front end alignment.

Shortfuse
 
#10 ·
So it's been an uphill battle. I replaced the front suspension and swapped the lower control arm with a 2011 control arm. Everything went back together smoothly and torqued to specs. However, something is wrong. I'm hoping the alignment is just way off, but the front tires are not keeping the proper camber or, well, alignment. I double checked with Mopar that I didn't need to replace any other components, but they believe everything else is the same. It appears to me that the tires are really off center with the bottom sticking out way farther than the top when the tires are straight forward. When I move the vehicle, the tires seem to rotate in opposite directions. Both sides make a popping noise like the tires are trying to force themselves back in alignment. I removed and retoqued everything again to no avail. Nothing is rubbing and the tires move smoothly when lifted off the ground. For the first time in ten years, my car is in a shop. Hopefully they can shed some light, and just maybe it's simply the alignment.

On another note, the springs of the new suspension has one less coil than OEM. That lowers the vehicle about an inch. It also brings the knuckle from the upper control arm to about 3/8" from the top of the tire. Not a huge deal, but more close than I typically would like. If I have to disassemble the suspension again, I'd likely swap out the springs with OEM, though I don't know what the ride height would be.
 
#11 ·
Two things are going on here.
1. You replaced a control arm with one it wasn't meant for, it works but this will require you to get a front end alignment.
2. With lowering your car an inch or so, you now have a little bit of negative camber I believe. You can change the upper control arm or the upper control arm ball joint to compensate. I believe eibach and moog both sell the correct upper control arm for lowered kits.

If you put the oe springs back on, you're ride height would be the same as it was before you installed eibach springs.
I had eibach springs, had to reinstall the old springs, kept bottoming out with 4 adults in the car.
The best suspension set up that I enjoy are police springs with the Bilstein shocks that you have.

Shortfuse
 
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