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Too many codes

9K views 50 replies 6 participants last post by  dan208 
#1 ·
So I have a 2006 dodge charger rt that I bought last June. It is now throwing codes like crazy and yesterday it wouldn't start. First codes thrown were P0520 and P0522. I went out and bought a new oil pressure sensor and installed it. One code went away but the other stayed. This was about 2-3 weeks ago. Saturday I drove around town with no issues then Sunday morning before work the car would crank but wouldn't turn over. Did the key dance and the codes thrown this time were P0335, P0642, and P2122. I went out and bought a new crank sensor and installed it and cleaned some of my connections. Went to start same thing cranked the first time then the second it started but had a lit up cluster and no throttle. I've read some other post from multiple forums and trying to think of what to do next. I think my next step is to trace down the wiring to see if I have any bad areas but wondering where I should start and wondering if anyone knows where all the ground points are. Any help would be very appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
#7 ·
Problem #1 ...always get MOPAR. Aftermarket isn't 100% compatible even though it claims to be. Talk about horror stories of sinking some money into something that could've been easier... Buy MOPAR. I just bought one for my car, which is the same as yours. Part #5149062-AA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151618650596?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I would fix this first, before ANYTHING else. This was the original code and wasn't fixed properly, so order or go buy your dealership and buy this part, replace it, clear the codes, and go from there...
 
#15 ·
Do you get this light on the dash )Z(? It looks like a lightning bolt in the middle.

I'm suspicious that you have a bad throttle body and it needs to be replaced.
 
#20 ·
Remove the intake tube and see if the TB is stuck open. Check for free movement across the full range of closed to wide open. If the TB is dirty or sticking is noted, remove and clean. then retry start up once full movement is restored.

If the TB is free and not sticking, then turn the key to the on position and see if the TB butterfly moves. Try pedal operation and see if movement occurs. If not, the TB probably needs to be replaced.

If TB replacement does not correct the issue, replace and reprogram the PCM.

BTW, a new TB should cost around $180
 
#22 ·
I found them online.

Here is a link for an OEM one from Amazon $167.77.

Ignore the Amazon compatibility check, the P/N is correct 4591847AC





Also, according to the service manual, you may also want to check and clean the connections to the PCM (be sure to disconnect the battery first, bad thing can happen if you don't).

All other service diagnostics point to it either being a bad TB, shorted wires/PCM connection or a bad PCM.
 
#23 ·
Awesome thanks for the info. I had the battery disconnected the whole time and did clean all 3 connectors but that didn't work either. So it's either a short, bad TB, or bad PCM. And again thanks for the help I'll post more when I get some more info and parts.
 
#25 ·
So I had 2 day shipping on my new PCM but took longer. I got it today and just installed it with the battery unplugged and go to start it and nothing. Cranks and cranks but no start still. Should I rip apart my whole car or what? I'm getting more and more pissed off with this flippin thing. Same codes are being thrown. Flashing lighting bolt and check engine light of course still on. Please help. Thank you guys.
 
#26 ·
Update... I went and bought a TB and no luck again. What else could it be? Should I rip the whole harness out? I checked wiring to the sensors I replaced and to the PCM. The throttle body wires look gross but I think it's from the tape they used.
 
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