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Confusion about the Alpine 276 watt amp

30K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  iamstubb 
#1 ·
I can't find consistent information by searching threads here, and some information is conflicting. :confused: The Alpine 276 watt amp is listed as 8-channel, yet it is powering 6 speakers, and I have also read that the front is actually two channels with a crossover between dash and front door.

Does anyone know if the amp is 4, 6, or 8 channel? If it is six or eight, what are the unused channels doing and are they available for tapping in to? does anyone have spec's for the amp? Is it 276/8=34.5 or something else?

Any help or pointing in the right direction for info is appreciated. :bowdown:
 
#2 ·
I know the stereo sends unamplified, unequalized, unvolume-controlled signals to the amp, and then tells the amp via canbus what volume to output to which speakers, with what equalization settings.

The stereo actually sends two signals to the amp - one for music, one for nav and backup sonar, blidspot, Bluetooth.

The advert may say eight because of the six speaker output channels plus the two input channels. This is just speculation though.
 
#3 · (Edited)
It is a bit confusing. I have tried to decode it a bit by looking at the connector pin assignments. From what I can tell, the dash speakers are sent a high-pass amplified signal from the amp and the doors are sent an amplified low-pass. Can't tell if they are the same channel with a crossover over or independent filtered channels. The rears get a full amplified signal, interestingly, even though the stock system rears have a mid/bass speaker installed. The out connector (C2) has pin assignments for 2 amplified sub out signals, and there is also an assignment for a center channel with the other dash outs and a sub-input on the C1 connector, but I don't know if they are live in the 276 amp, just no connections in the harness. That would add up to eight channels: sub (1 or 2 if duplicate), center, LF-door, RF-door, LF-Dash, RF-Dash, LR, RR. I wish I could get in there to see if those other pins are hot or not. It would be nice to just tap in to the low-level sub input on C1 for a signal to run a sub.

How did you tap your signal for the Kappa amps? Did you use the PAC harness adapter?
 
#4 ·
If it is like the OEM Chrysler amp then there are 8 channels rated at 46W into 4 ohms. When using all 8 channels, you would have up to 368W output. With only 6 connected, you get 276W. The channel frequency ranges are programmed based on the "cabin EQ" of your car that is stored in the Front control module. Therefore, the same amp can be used in different cars with different spkr counts and styles. The car is programmed based on the way it leaves the factory and the amp configures itself for the proper active channels and crossover points to the different channels. I don't know if the unused channels actually have a signal available or not.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Thanks rodneyiii,
Now that makes a lot of sense. I would guess then that you would have to tell the head unit that it had the different speaker count for the other channels to be active.

That makes more sense power-wise. That's a decent amount. The first pair of infinity replacements I put in there seemed like they were working pretty hard and that is right in their top RMS range. Changed them out for the 6x9's with a higher RMS rating and they have no problem, although both sounded great at lower volumes. Seems like it is a decent amp, based on how good it sounds with the speaker upgrade. That is what is holding it back.

To run a sub I will probably use the PAC harness accessory. I wonder if using an aftermarket amp would make sense for driving the speakers. You would lose that third channel pair. I was toying with the idea of getting a 5-channel amp.
 
#6 ·
I did some quick and dirty rta measurements on the dash and front door speakers a while back (sorry, no screen shots of the results). IIRC, the dash speakers are highpassed somewhere between 250 and 500 hz. The front door speakers are bandpassed from 50 or 60 hz to 1000 hz. This is with the 9 speaker system btw, so if you have the 6 speaker, ymmv, particularly with regard to the highpass on the door speakers. :)
 
#7 ·
Hugely helpful! That would mean replacing with only a tweeter is probably not a good idea. I would miss the whole middle range. I wondered how the door 6x9 replacements sound so good. That band-passing lets the 6x9 work only frequencies they can handle. mine are 46 and up so 50 is perfect. Another good bit of info. An intersting alternative if keeping the stock amp is independently wiring a component set, but I wonder how they would match up with the amp cutoffs.
 
#8 ·
Hi. newbe here and having a good time. I have a 2013 charger with a 276 watt amp and a alpine 6 speaker system. From reading your post iam a bit lost. Is there a simple way to install a factory sub to this system, iam looking to keep it as stock as i can. I would like to get some better sound out of this system but am not looking to blow away the block. thanks for your help
 
#9 ·
One of the most simple ways would be to take your rear speaker signal, which is full range, and run that into an amp and sub in the trunk. You would do this by tapping the speaker lines under the rear deck, running them into an aftermarket amp that would power a sub and the two rear speakers. Run new speaker wire to tap back into the rear deck and to the sub. If you want simple, use a sealed sub. That would require a three channel amp like the JBL GTO3EZ that I used. It takes speaker level signal directly, so no converter needed, will automatically turn on when it detects a signal, and has a crossover to keep the speakers and sub from overlapping, giving you muddy sound. Because the battery is in the back, it is very easy to wire in any equipment.

People will argue that you need much bigger gauge wire, but a good solution that would let you return to stock if needed would be to splice your rear deck wires with bullet connectors. Then you can plug into new speaker wire going to the amp, and plug back in to the harness with the return wire to reconnect the speakers.

I did this at the speaker out connector on the OEM amp to splice in to the harness so I wouldn't have to run new wire to the doors. Worked great and if I ever pull out my gear I just reconnect the bullets directly and voila! -back to stock. According to the math, a couple feet of smaller gauge wire does not impact resistance or signal.
 
#11 · (Edited)
You will be ale to adjust the gains on the amplifier separately for the rear speakers and the sub so you can control volume that way, plus have some control with the fader control on the 8.4 Uconnect. So I don't think it would be an issue. I put amps for both the back and front so I can't say I actually tried that.
 
#13 ·
I used the GTO 504 for the fronts, and the 3EZ for the rear and sub, but I pulled my signal from the head unit using a low level signal converter (PAC Audio CH2-CHY5). This avoids the bas cutout issue. The bass cutout starts around volume 27 or so. I found that on this or another forum, can't remember now. There are devices that correct for that, namely the Audio Control LC2i, which is pretty popular and seems to work well. You would run your speaker signal into that and it would change to a low level signal and correct the bass fade-out, then provide an outward connection to the amp. It's hard to stop once you get going on this stuff!

Infinity makes a powered sub called Basslink. It is a 10" sub with a passive in a small package that I have read about a bit. Looks like if you install it right, it is a good all-in-one solution if you just want a little upgrade. It seems that if you abuse it you will break it. It is not for pounding bass, but for filling out the sound it seems it is pretty good. and amp integrated.

I went with a 10" sealed and I can push it way beyond what I need it for so I bet most would be satisfied for that. 300W RMS is pretty loud. I don't think I have ever even come close to that.
 
#15 ·
Yes, that bypasses the factory amp. I definitely need to write this up and post it, but I am not quite done tweaking the setup. The device needs to plug in at the head unit. I tried to get away with swapping it at the amp connector and that didn't work. But from that device I ran RCA interconnects back to the trunk where the amps are, and speaker wire back up front and to the rear deck.
 
#16 ·
Yes you should post it there is alot of "i thinks" and "not sure try this" out there and so far if what you said works and i guess it does its the best info out there. Iam going to start working on getting all the parts and putting it together. It may take me a little bit of time but i will keep you posted. Again thankyou.
 
#18 ·
I have been slacking!

I started a write up and it started to get so long that I stopped. But, I took a couple pictures and maybe I will get to it. I have been tweaking the audio tuning to get it sounding good. But I think I have enough documentation to make some useful info for everyone. I needed some pictures of where I ran the power and grounds and how I ran the wires. I have that now. Maybe I can start posting it up. I installed only a 10" in a sealed enclosure, but it should apply to what a lot of people will want to do.

Thanks for the kick to get me going!
 
#19 ·
Thanks for info. Very interesting.
 
#21 ·
Very informative thread. I want to upgrade the 276 Alpine speakers in my '12 Bee and add a small sub.

Here are the speakers I plan to use:

Dash - JBL GTO328 (3.5" 2ohm)
Front Door - CDT Audio CL6-D2 (6.5" 2ohm midbass only)
Rear Deck - JBL GTO928 (6x9 2ohm)

Sub - Image Dynamics ID8
Amp - ???

From reading this thread, it looks to be confirmed that the front door speakers are strictly midbass only? Any suggestions on a monoblock amp for the 8" ID? Is the best way to obtain a signal for the sub amp a PAC harness?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
#22 · (Edited)
Are you going to put the ID 8 in the cutout on the rear deck? Make sure it fits because I think there is a bracket underneath that may limit what you can put in there. The rear speakers are getting a full signal, so I would consider either getting a mono block that can take a speaker-level input and tap into the rear speaker wires for signal, or getting a 2.1 amp like the GTO3EZ that I used to run both the sub and the rear deck. This lets you run the full signal through the amp and split the signal so that the rear deck and sub are not playing the same frequencies and competing with each other, and also getting balanced power. Most amps have this capability. Otherwise just look for a CEA 2006-compliant amp. That will have reliable power ratings. Match the RMS of the amp to the sub as closely as possible. The ID8 is 150W RMS, so if you get a good deal on a bridgeable 4 channel amp, go with that as you won't need tons of power. I just looked up the new JBL GX A602 ($99.00) and GX A604 ($149.00) and they are bridgeable at 170W RMS, so those would be just about perfect and can be had for a good price. The GTO3EZ that I used is overkill for what you are planning so save some money. Just be sure you have the 4 Ohm ID8. That is required for bridging.

I would use the Pac adapter only if you wanted to bypass the OEM completely. That will give you a low level output to run to amps or to a digital processor, then out to sup and speaker amps. It is theoretically the cleanest way to go, but you will lose the EQ function of the head unit. I still haven't decided if I like that or not. I ran speaker-level input into my amps for a while before adding a sound processor and it worked pretty well with the JBL amps. I also like their design because they were easy to work with by having the controls on the top, rather than hidden in the side

By the way, 6x9's would fit nicely in the front doors. Even if they are not getting a signal over 400 Hz and acting as a mid-bass only there is some benefit. A 6x9 will fit without having to use an adapter, which will allow you to take advantage of the fact that the speaker mount is essentially a small enclosure and will give you more bass. Using a 6.5 with an adapter will create open spaces that will reduce the low end of that speaker. The doors are low-passed around 400Hz and getting a full low-level signal, so a 6x9 can handle those easily. I get a LOT of bass out of my door 6x9's. 6.5's will cut off around 80 Hz at their lowest, but 6x9' are often well below 50Hz.
 
#23 · (Edited)
I will definitely consider just running another set of GTO928's in the front door. Ease of installation (no need for an adapter) and price are certainly in their favor. I'm sure they would sound just as good as a 6.5.

I plan on putting the ID8 in a small custom enclosure, mounted on one side of the trunk. I never considered running a 4 channel amp since it's just rear deck speakers. It's definitely a great idea. Did you run this type of setup in your Charger? Is it overkill to amp the rear deck? Will the factory alpine system act goofy if it doesn't see a proper load from the rear speakers since I will be running the wire into the input of the amp?
 
#28 ·
Yes, I just tapped in the Sub with this http://www.scosche.com/loc90-line-output-converter

A question I was wondering was, since I only tapped in to one rear speaker but it has 2 channel output and so is my amp, do I need a Y adapter to split the mono channel from the line-out converter to the amp to get a better voltage? It's working, just not sure if it's at the best signal. Never worked with a line-out converter.
 
#29 ·
That would divide the voltage to each input. If it is a mono amp, the signal gets summed anyway. To get the most you could tap both rears. That would give you twice the signal which would potentially provide a cleaner one by virtue of higher signal/noise.
 
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