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Brake Pads and rotors

4K views 30 replies 8 participants last post by  RAINMANyeh 
#1 ·
Its time to replace my front and rear pads. I also want to do the job right and replace the rotors as well. What brand of ceramic pads and rotors are the best for my 3.5L?

Carpe Diem
 
#3 ·
I'm looking through Amazon and there are many different types of hawk brake pads. According to the fitment it said it would fit the SRT 8. Does the 3.5Ls have the same brake pad fit as the Srts?

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#5 ·
I would say no. The SRT's brakes are much larger than the V6's.

Personally, I'm a fan of the OEM. No premature wear, brakes great, no complaints :D
 
#7 ·
What is the exact type HPS pads for my 3.5L

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#6 · (Edited)
I have the R1 concepts drilled and slotted with posi quiet pads and I like this set up allot
 
#8 ·
Thanks bro!

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#9 ·
I know I'm about to get chased into the windmill with pitchforks and torches...but in all honesty, I replaced my stock pads 4 years ago with off-the-shelf Auto-Zone brand....and haven't had a days issue out of them, she still stops great, no noise, no shimmy, low dust. I'm also still running the stock rotors.
 
#14 ·
Nah, I wont bash you, but I didn't have a good experience with them. My first pad change I went with a pair form Autozone, apparently the metallic mixture was wrong and basically crumbled against my rotors. Had to replace them within two months and went back to OEM pads. :beerchug:
 
#10 ·
I just replaced mine with another set of EBCs.:bigthumb:
 
#11 ·
so after reading the posts, i wanted.to add my driving conditions. i commute to work, 60 miles round trip, 5 days a week. which specific pads and rotors would allow my car to be able to handle these conditions? i don't plan on racing at the track often, just as a daily driver.

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#13 ·
x2. OEM pads are pretty good overall really. I've gotten the best mileage/wear from stock pads. If your looking to improve performance there are other options, but for normal driving, OEM work just fine.
 
#15 ·
How about brake hoses? When do those need to be replaced?

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#16 ·
I don't think there is a set mileage for that, sort of like replace it when it's broke type of deal. You could upgrade to braided though.
 
#19 ·
thanks guys! so since IM still a noob, when will i know when it's time to change out my rotors? i have 50000 miles in so far

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#20 ·
Go with the service manual. OR if you ever notice pulsing when you brake. Then just change out with OEM mopar rotor and pads you will be all good to go. Change brake fluid at the same time as well!
 
#24 ·
Thanks guys for all your help! I went with the R1 concept E LINE CROSS DRILLED AND SLOTTED ROTORS and POSI QUIET CERAMIC BRAKE PADS. spoke with Melvin from r1, mentioned I was an active member of the forum, and he then proceeded to give me a discount of $75! Yeahyuh!

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#25 ·
Ask the guys at R1 to Zinc coat your rotor's hub and holes. Or they are going to rust like hell in no time. Seen too many rusted out eline rotors, which is why i went with the premium ones. Not something terribly wrong, it just looks bad on a new set of rotors.
 
#26 ·
Just made a call to R1 and yes they assured me the Elines are zinc coated. Thanks for the heads up!

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#27 ·
FYI, Melvin from R1 concepts informed me that he recommends the premium drilled/slotted for those driving in salty and snow conditions. Other than that, if one is driving in so cal weather, like me, then he recommends the E LINE drilled/slotted rotors. just a heads up for those in the market and want to save $$$$ based on their specific road conditions where they live!

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#28 ·
Just to let you know, drilled/slotted doesn't do much for braking in terms of day to day driving. In sports yes, because you do a lot of extreme braking and heat needs displacing with the quickness. For day to day driving they're just cool lookin' rotors. That's why the cars that normally come stock with them like the Viper is because it's a high performance car, so you'll need high performance rotors.
 
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