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Guy I'm ready to give up on this car need help!!

4K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  djalbin 
#1 ·
Ok I been having issues with my charger like starting so slow until it starts then after its hot it won't start . Sounds like it will but it won't sounds more like if the battery drained but after 6 hours car start like nothing..I replaced starter, new battery, upgraded battery ground cable to thicker and replace the starter relay...anything yall can help me with will be appreciated I'm to the point that I'm gonna trade in the car. Plz help
 
#2 ·
You know that they made lots of different years and trim models of the Charger SRT.

Why are you expecting us to guess which one you have?

Your description of the issue leaves a lot of guessing too. You're the only one that has lived it, we just got here.
 
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#4 ·
Hard to understand the "slow start" issue. What, if any changes, did the purchased parts make? What are the sequence of events? How long has this been happening? A timeline would help, a video (of the starting issue) if possible would be even better.
 
#5 ·
What I mean about a slow start. Is when you turn the key to start your car and hold it for about 3 to 4 seconds until it finally starts. It's been going on for about 3 months it's has gotten worst to the point when I drive the car to the store it would do the same thing but the but now since the car is hot it won't start back on
 
#6 ·
You say you replaced the battery and starter to no avail, however your symptoms indicate a lack of sufficient power getting to the starter. As a check, try disconnecting your maf and coolant Sensor when the car is hot and try starting. The car should be easier to start when hot in general. That said, there still isnt enough information surrounding the situation to provide a remote diagnosis. Everything will be a shot in the dark. This doesnt come from my exp. With srt chargers, just cars in general.
 
#8 ·
If you mean it cranks for 3 or 4 seconds before it starts or cranks and won't start, it could be the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors need to be replaced. (I had to replace mine for a similar issue)

If you mean it won't crank for 3 or 4 seconds but then it does, it's likely a bad ignition switch.
 
#12 ·
Crank position sensor on my 11 RT was behind the starter. Not sure if its in the same location on a 2006 6.1l. If so, you have to remove the starter. Mine was underneath the car on the passenger side of the engine by the tranny.
 
#13 ·
Guessing here but maybe the fuel pump? Taking a bit to build pressure? Do you hear a prolonged whine under the drivers side seat in the rear?
 
#18 ·
I don't mind. First thing i did is drove my car till it was hot bc it wouldn't start when it was hot. So after it got hot I changed the cam sensor and cranked the car and still wouldn't start and sounded like battery was drained. So I went ahead and change that same day the crank sensor and still wouldn't start and would crank slow as if battery was drainning. Keep in mind I already have replace other parts and upgraded my ground cables as I mention before, from my first post. So I went ahead and eliminated everything from ignition to starter relay and crank the car straight from the starter to see if it would start straight from it. And still same symptom so even tho I have replaced my starter new it ended it up being a brand new defective starter. And so warranties gave me a new one and the moment I installed it car started like nothing even after I drove it for like and hour and it was hot car started with no hesitation.
 
#19 ·
It is great to hear a resolution for this issue! Thanks for posting!

I have a 2009 Charger SXT (same generation as yours), 70K miles with sluggish starting - it goes a few extra cranks longer, and sounds weaker than it should.

Yesterday I had the auto parts store hook up their tester to check the Battery, Alternator, and Starter. All passed the test...

So I'm curious if you used a tester to check your starter at some point? I'd like to know if the problem your starter had was detectable by the tester (so I can avoid replacing good parts)

Thanks!
Steve
 
#20 ·
Batteries often test fine but really aren't and can cause the slow start issue you describe. The exact thing happened to me earlier this year. Slow starting, couldn't find the issue and everything checked out fine. 3 months later my battery died in the parking lot at work. Once I replaced it, no more slow start issues.

How old is your battery?
 
#21 ·
I recently bought the car, so I'm having to read it off of the battery. The date isn't obvious, but I searched around on the internet...

Assuming I'm looking at the right code: stamped into the plastic top of the battery it says: 8K09D54

I guess the 8K means November 2008? Which would make it the stock battery... Yikes, almost 7 years old?? Am I reading that right?
 
#23 ·
Steve my battery and starter tested good too but it wasnt. I was in the same boat as you. I change my battery and same problem, also bought a new starter and same problem, upgrade my ground cables seem to help it a little but still same symptom, replace cam and crank sensor. Same issue so decided to test my starter again by eliminating the ignition and the starter relay and starting it straight from the starter and that's when I realize car still didn't start by eliminating all that so decided to go buy another one and bam problem solved no issue starting at all and I'm happy so even if it's a new starter it can be defective and when they first tested it it showed it was ok but it wasn't. Hope this help steve
 
#27 ·
As I was looking up which battery fit my Charger, I became confused because all of the batteries listed had hundreds more CCA than the battery in my car. Then when I went to replace the battery, I noticed the old battery was about 4 inches shorter than the new battery I was installing. Maybe I had and old battery and a lesser battery than what I needed? Hard to know since I just bought the car - at least now I know what I have.

Anyway, new battery is installed and starting the car sounds a lot more lively now. I'm satisfied! :)

I saw mentioned in the battery thread that you need to "reset and recalibrate" after a dead battery, but it didn't give specifics. I'm going to search around for what that means, but if anyone has pointers, please let me know.
 
#28 ·
Having more CCAs is not an issue. A larger size battery not an issue as long as the battery fits in the hold-down clamps. Just make sure the battery vent tube is attached and not kinked.
On newer models of the Dodge Charger there is an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) mounted directly on the battery’s negative post. When the IBS is powered up for the first time, or is powered after a power disconnection, it goes into a “recalibration” phase, where the IBS must recognize the type of battery and its characteristics and state.
On older models of Dodge Charger (without an IBS), the auto-up front window feature needs to be calibrated and the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) needs to be calibrated.
If your car didn't have the IBS attached to the battery’s negative post, you can calibrate the door module and SAS as follows:

Door Module -
Using the window switch, raise the window to the full UP position. Hold the switch in position for 1 second, then drive the window all the way down to the bottom.

ESP/SAS -
Start the engine.
Center the steering wheel.
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left until the internal stop in the steering gear is met, then turn the wheel all the way to the right until the opposite internal stop in the steering gear is met.
Center the steering wheel.
Stop the engine.
.
 
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