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Cleaned Throttle Body

12K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  djalbin 
#1 · (Edited)
So i cleaned the Throttle body sprayed a little in the front of opening and a little around the ring and wiped the rest with some on a towel. Now the car wont start... :frown2:
2nd problem it seems that some of liquid was coming out the back of throttle body like dripping then it dried quick.
EDIT: Held throttle down and cranked a few times and it started no problem. Still not about it dripping from back though
 
#2 ·
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and Idle Air Control (IAC) motor are in the throttle body. Depending on how much cleaner got past the throttle valve - it may have affected these circuits. The cleaner evaporates quickly ... so once it evaporated/dried it looks like you were able to start the car.
It's best to spray the throttle body cleaner onto a lint free cloth and then gently wipe the throttle valve area with the cloth. Be careful not to move the throttle valve or spray cleaner directly into the throttle body past the throttle valve.
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#4 ·
The throttle plate (I called it the throttle valve in the previous post) does not close 100% ... so it will be slightly open even when it's in the closed position.


I can only guess that the leaking between the throttle body and the intake manifold is due to a leaking gasket. I don't know which engine you have in your car. The 3.5L engine has a gasket between the throttle body and the intake manifold. The 5.7.5L engine has a o-ring between the throttle body and the intake manifold. Tighten the throttle body mounting bolts to 105 in. lbs. of torque and see if they were loose. If everything is tight, it's possible the gasket or o-ring has deteriorated some and allowed the cleaner to leak out. There's really no way of knowing without removing the throttle body and examining the gasket or o-ring.


If you do remove the throttle body to examine the gasket ... do not disconnect any of the electrical connections from the throttle body. If you disconnect the electrical connection you will need the dealership to perform a "ETC Relearn" (electronic throttle control relearn). A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be set if the relearn is not preformed.
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#5 ·
Well it's the 5.7L would this o-ring being bad cause any problems? Because i've been trying to pinpoint the reason on why my idle is going up and down. More the HEMI is supposed and it drops and shakes a little when going lower. From the dash it goes to 590 or 570 for a sec then back up to normal when idling. I tried replacing the back of the intake sensor (MAP) and tried cleaning the front intake one with sensor cleaner
 
#6 · (Edited)
My 5.7L will sometimes rise/fall a few RPMs at idle but it does not shake. I think that humidity/temperature has an affect on it sometimes. But mine sounds more like a lope to the idle rather than a surge, shake or stumble.
The front intake sensor is the IAT sensor (Inlet Manifold Air Temperature). You're correct that the rear sensor is the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure).

There's several things that can cause the idle RPMs to surge (rise/fall) or rough idle.
Check the air filter and make sure it's not dirty.
Check the PCV valve to ensure it's not plugged/sticking (on top of intake manifold, passenger side, towards the rear ... near the MAP sensor).
You could have an air leak around the intake manifold. Check the intake manifold bolts to see if any are loose (tighten to 9 ft. lbs). You can also check for air leaks with a spray water bottle. Start the engine and let it idle. Spray a small stream of water at the suspected leak area. The RPM will change if there is an air leak at that spot.
There are other components and sensors as well. Plug a OBD2/CAN scanner into the car OBD2 port and see if any active/pending DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) have been logged.
Dirty/plugged fuel injectors can also cause rough idle. Add a can of fuel system injector cleaner (I use Techron) to a tank of fuel (nothing less than 89 octane and from a Top Tier retailer). See if this helps with the idle after the first tank.

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers/
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#7 · (Edited)
I use only 93 OCT top tier gas. So i can kinda hear maybe a little hissing but not entirely sure as my engine and exhaust is kinda loud lol but i'll try tightening everything basically. I've had it for a bit now it falls enough to like partially stumble but it's not every time i idle it's most of the time. Also seems to do it when in drive say at a light i can feel the car like surge up and try to move for a sec. But this is only sometimes. There's no code being thrown which kinda sucks cause that'd be easier to find. Also tried fuel system cleaner and didn't seem like it did anything.
Thanks for all the help so far btw!:beerchug:
 
#9 ·
Sorry for the late delay. Anyway my throttle body gasket seemed to have a few marks on it so i replaced that and still have the idle drop. Tried off the shelf stuff honestly didn't notice a difference. Don't have the money for ACE right now :serious:
But anyways i also replaced the MAP or whatever sensor on the back of the intake. I just did my spark plugs. Its not my CAI or Catch can i already checked that. Uh well it seems the idle/drop shake happens much much more often with the AC on. It seems also when the Compressor kicks on the Car rpms drop bad to about 535 or so for a sec so it shakes. It's a pretty bad stumble. It's often with the AC on but with AC off it happens much less often but it's definitely still there. I tried my car in multiple temps of the day so it doesn't seem related to that either.:crying:
 
#10 ·
The A/C compressor clutch engages and disengages the A/C compressor. The A/C compressor clutch engagement is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM then adjusts the idle speed, based on inputs it receives from the A/C clutch, by controlling the idle air control (IAC) motor in the throttle body.
It sounds like the A/C clutch is engaging/disengaging but either the A/C clutch signal to the PCM or the PCM signal to the IAC is not working ... so the idle speed is not getting increased when the A/C clutch is engaged.
If you're not getting any active/pending DTCs, I would check the wiring/connectors between the A/C clutch and PCM, and between the PCM and throttle body.
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#12 ·
The scenario I described only happens if the A/C clutch is being engaged to run the A/C compressor. If you're using the HVAC system, with the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) set 'On', the HVAC system may engage the A/C compressor even though you don't have the A/C On. ATC will control the heat, cold and humidity by blending the heater and A/C as needed to maintain the ATC setting.
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#15 ·
The PCM activates the EVAP canister purge solenoid to pull the EVAP system into a vacuum in order to close the NVLD switch (NVLD = Natural Vacuum Leak Detection). Once the NVLD switch is closed, the PCM turns the EVAP purge solenoid off to seal the EVAP system.


So there should not be any vacuum leaks in the EVAP system. If the EVAP canister purge solenoid is not holding a vacuum it can cause a fuel rich condition or several EVAP system errors. I'm surprised you're not getting any DTCs logged if the EVAP system has a leak.
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#17 ·
Hello guys, I have a 2015 Charger RT and have been having very similar issues. I had a couple stored codes which are P0123 - TPS volt above spec, P0222- TPS volt below spec, and P0108- map sensor volt too high, replaced the map sensor so not an issue. I guess I’m wondering is the tps sensor or it’s wiring the issue or something else.
 
#18 ·
Hi Cpjoel,
Sorry to hear of the trouble you’re experiencing. If you decide to address this concern with your certified Dodge dealer, please feel free to send us a private message. We would be happy to provide you with an additional layer of assistance for that process.

Rob
Dodge Cares
 
#19 ·
P0123 - TPS volt above spec, P0222- TPS volt below spec,
Getting both high voltage and low voltage codes logged at the same time could be the throttle body, a wiring harness/connector problem or the throttle plate is sticking.
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