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Oil - Synthetic VS High Mileage Synthetic

14K views 36 replies 14 participants last post by  Part Deux 
#1 ·
I'm at 95,000 and was wondering if I should switch to the high mileage oil from now on, or just stay with what I've been using.
 
#2 ·
High mileage oils are designed to swell the seals of older engines that may have some leaking or seeping going on. They swell and harden the seals which then become brittle....causing cracking and splitting.

What you want is an oil that is friendly to seals and better on solubility (suspension of additive package). PAO oils are already more aggressive on seals and high mileage oils are even worse. They change a couple additives around and put a different label on them and make a new market and all mfrs follow!

Obviously changing to a QuantumBlue Custom Blend that we produce would be the best for taking care of it as we have written many times and proven with oil analysis. Older engines have different requirements to keep them going long term.;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#5 ·
I'd have to agree with Brian, But if your charger isn't leaking or using any oil stay with what your using. Also I believe that those oils have more additive package in them so they can go long oil intervals.
 
#7 ·
The change intervals extend a little with QB products to a 10K oil change interval. . . so the cost (what I've been told) is basically negligible.

I don't use it because I don't feel comfortable leaving oil and filters in place for 10,000 miles. I feel a lot better going with standard intervals. . call me old school, but it just seems un-natural.

I say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. . what you are currently using works.
 
#8 ·
The change intervals extend a little with QB products to a 10K oil change interval. . . so the cost (what I've been told) is basically negligible.

I don't use it because I don't feel comfortable leaving oil and filters in place for 10,000 miles. I feel a lot better going with standard intervals. . call me old school, but it just seems un-natural.

I say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. . what you are currently using works.
My thoughts exactly.
 
#11 ·
Brian,

I apologize if my post came across as offensive to you. That was not my intention.


To answer your post, we're not talking about tires that you can see, inspect, etc. we're talking about a component that runs inside the motor that you can't exactly take out and look at. Tires are easy to see when they need to be replaced, oil not so much, you gotta send it off to a lab for testing.

Some people feel comfortable leaving oil in the car for 10K or more miles. . that's cool. Like I said, call me old school but I'd rather change it more frequently (oil and filter).

Different strokes for different folks is all. It's not a matter of facts for me, it's what's comfortable for me. :dunno:
 
#12 ·
Brian,

I apologize if my post came across as offensive to you. That was not my intention.

Thank you for your clarification, I appreciate that. I wasn't offended really, just trying to give an example of a component that people are passionate about. The analogy was trying to show how people felt years ago and what they were comfortable or used to dealing with.


To answer your post, we're not talking about tires that you can see, inspect, etc. we're talking about a component that runs inside the motor that you can't exactly take out and look at. Tires are easy to see when they need to be replaced, oil not so much, you gotta send it off to a lab for testing.

Some people feel comfortable leaving oil in the car for 10K or more miles. . that's cool. Like I said, call me old school but I'd rather change it more frequently (oil and filter).

Different strokes for different folks is all. It's not a matter of facts for me, it's what's comfortable for me. :dunno:
I understand where you are coming from and appreciate your forthrightness here.

I will not exceed 10k miles or 2 years on my own oil even though it has been proven to go farther. This is what I design it for and feel that 10k is sufficient. Emotions play a big role in what we do with our cars! I have to change the oil in the SRT8 by 9/23 as it has been in the car for 2 years. It has only gone 1719 miles since I changed it last.

At some point, I hope you consider all of the data that continues to come out about what our materials do and hopefully we can talk sometime and discuss other lubricants like the trans fluid you were talking about a few weeks ago anyway.:bigthumb:

Thanks again!

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#13 ·
I'm just on the fence about it.

I like the idea of the better protection, but 10K miles is just a looonnngggg change interval.


I'm trying to talk myself into it. LOL.

I am still thinking about the Trans fluid, just a matter of funds.
 
#16 ·
I think part of the 3k oil change is promoted by big oil companies and quick oil change places. Most car manufacturers don't recommend 3 k oil changes anymore, unless you are driving in adverse conditions (dirt roads/off road or taxi/police service). If everyone who went to say double their oil change intervals that would put quite a dent in the profits of oil companies... But then they would probably ask for a bailout lol
 
#17 ·
Sorry dude, but you are wrong here. They are not making oil like they used to. All of the antiwear additives have been reduced to comply with those rediculous "green" standards. If you knew the truth, you would want to change your oil every 1000 miles. Today's synthetic blend oils are not as good as conventional was 10 years ago!

Go Quantum Blue or go home.
 
#19 ·
Wow

I know you are plugging your product here
But it seems like all other oils are crap and yours is the best thing since sliced bread
Are there other oils available that compare to yours
I bought into the 'Slick 50" oil for $50 qt about 20 yrs ago
Ive run cars to their death with conventional oils, without special voodoo additives. I still believe change your oil at a regular basis, use a quality product. Its all good:clap:
 
#24 · (Edited)
I know you are plugging your product here
But it seems like all other oils are crap and yours is the best thing since sliced bread

As I have tried to point out over and over again, oil standards continue to change and formulations in the marketplace change rapidly. The focus is to stay with the standards...right now ILSAC GF-4 which was instituted on January 14, 2004 with maximum limits for Phosphorous of 0.08% and minimum standards for fuel economy in a 0w weight and a 5w weight, and a 10w weight. It has minimum standards for scuffing, cam wear, sludge, varnish etc. An FEI of 2.3 within 16 hrs and an FEI of 2.0 after 96 hours. Yea, you heard it....hours. The 0.08% is the total standard maximum. That means a 0w and a 5w have a maximum value of 500 ppm and a 10w has a maximum of 0.07% or 700 ppm by mass.

Phosphorous is your anti-wear compound! Phosphorous also needs to be neutral in nature or compound NOT Acidic like what is in the new GF-4 oils. I don't make this stuff up, and as a Tribologist, Physicist, and Chemist, I am telling you it is not enough for long term wear resistance let alone what compounds are put in there for maximum mass of Zinc.

Read it for yourself.

http://www.ilma.org/resources/ilsac_finalstd011404.pdf

Are there other oils available that compare to yours

No other oil out on the market has 3000 to 5000 ppm Phosphorous, 1500 to 1800 ppm ZnDDP, and 400-500 Magnesium content like QuantumBlue. No other oil out there is custom blended to the exact application incorporating your mods, your RPM maximum, your barometric pressure and temperature ranges that you personally will encounter. These things matter, so NO, there isn't another oil that compares.


I bought into the 'Slick 50" oil for $50 qt about 20 yrs ago

That was Poly Tetra Fluoro Ethylene or PTFE. That was a scam. So was Duralube, Prolong, Motor up, Renew....etc. Miracle cures that did more harm than good. I get that.

Ive run cars to their death with conventional oils, without special voodoo additives. I still believe change your oil at a regular basis, use a quality product. Its all good:clap:
If your conventional oils had stayed like they were for years on end, then yes, you would be in much better shape. If the engines had stayed the same with cast iron blocks and heads, and run at 175 deg water temperature, yes, you would be in better shape there too.

However, that is not where oils are today and neither is your V8 or V6 like what was made years ago.

You don't know enough about the changes to make informed decisions because every time they change the spec, their statements say less ash, less varnish, more mileage, cleaner running. Those statements mask the wear issues from these oils. The thinner the oil molecule with less anti-scuff, anti-rust, anti-foam, and less TBN, the worse it is for the life of the unit. Manufacturers have a desire of 4.6 to 5.8 years of useable life and that is about it. The SECOND you mod your car with different items that produce different stresses on it, all the ILSAC-GF-4 specs can be thrown in the trash.

With the volatility of the oils today in conventional and synthetic oils, you can spend less money initially than QuantumBlue Custom Blends, but you will not get the protection that you need over the long term and you will have bought into the agenda of the manufacturers and the oil companies alike. ;)

Here are 3 oil samples contiguously from the same customer with the same engine, a 2008 Dodge Charger R/T 5.7L MDS engine running QuantumBlue 7.5w23 HP Competition Formula custom blend. A total of 35,593 miles worth of changes and just 3 changes in over 35k miles. This is a long term evaluation of efficacy. 1st oil sample was at 12,307 miles, the second at 11,286 miles, and the third at 12,000 miles. Iron went from 43 ppm, to 28 ppm, to 20 ppm. no lead content virtually no wear on this engine in 33% of 100k miles. That is performance!

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com




 

Attachments

#23 ·
It would be really cool if we could have a thread discussing oil, without someone chiming in that if you don't use a certain product, your car will not last, and that all other oils are inferior. :rolleyes2:


But, we can't.

lxforums looks better every time I see this same issue, again and again.



Sure, brand "X" is good stuff. So is brand "Y"......along with brand "Z" and brand "lmnop".
 
#25 ·
Brian,

Question for you. I'm Just curious here. If the industry is being regulated to the point on how the oils are being made, how can you add the stuff their taking out? At least that's the way it sounds to me.

look for an email about my Thunderbird in a day or two.
 
#26 · (Edited)
The industry is moved to the newest specifications in ILSAC GF-4 that we disagreed with on wear performance. Now they plan on moving again to ILSAC GF-5 specifications and API SN. That is really not good for long term. Thinner, more fuel economy, more sacrifice to longevity.

We have chosen to stay with SL, SM, and ILSAC GF-3.

We can make what we want to make, we just can't claim the higher specs unless we make it to them.

We feel the birds are all flying in the wrong direction etc.

Feel free to call me on Monday and we can discuss on the T-Bird.:beerchug:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
 
#27 ·
Wasn't the reason the oil manufacturers removed some of those compounds from motor oil, at the request of the automobile manufacturers, due to their adverse effect on expensive environmental controls, such as the catalytic converters?

Are you saying they removed those elements with total disregard for the longevity of the automobile engine? Sounds like another class action lawsuit. If you are able to put in these compounds with no ill effects, so can the manufacturers. Pure negligence on their part.....
 
#28 ·
There has never been any conclusive studies to prove Zinc and Phosphorous cause any damage to emission control components. We have run engines 200k + miles with high zinc and phosphorous without any degradation of any kind... whether emission or integrity of the units.

This gets to a political discussion with the EPA that I feel could get really heated so I am not going on that route here.

CAFE Standards are the reason for the new oils and their specs. Emissions, emissions, emissions. Get one or 2 tenths of a mile more per vehicle.....make more trucks. Trucks make more money per unit.

Never about the customer....always about the company and bottom line. Don't believe me, look at our 06-10 door panels. Cavalierish!:rolleyes2:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#30 ·
WOW Again

I am sorry for doubting you
I do not like to be preached at
But I looked at your site and for the price of your stuff
I could change my oil every 1000 miles and still have money for gas

I guess all the people who use AMSOIL are idiots too:locked:
 
#31 ·
I am sorry for doubting you
I do not like to be preached at

Please take my sincere apology if I came across preaching to you, as that was not my intent at all.

But I looked at your site and for the price of your stuff
I could change my oil every 1000 miles and still have money for gas

I guess all the people who use AMSOIL are idiots too:locked:
My customers (all 2100 of them) and my products speak for themselves when their used. By the way, I never call anyone an idiot.:)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
 
#34 ·
I am sorry for my idiot comment
I agree with Jonny's post
I still will cruise these forums to see what people do the their Chargers
Some I will agree with, some I will not
That is just my opinion
No religion discussions allowed
no political discussions allowed
no global warming discussions allowed
and apparently peoples passion about oil :)

no, we're not going to ban oil discussions, just be aware people have a passion about the topic and respect their knowledge and beliefs :)

I'm glad that we have so many knowledgeable people on this forum :)
 
#37 ·
no need to worry your little heart about elections in guam, it's going to tip over and fall into the ocean anyway.
 
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