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Tutorial : How to Replace All Four Main Speakers by DynoXG

122K views 96 replies 56 participants last post by  GunSmoke Charger RT 
#1 · (Edited)
I didn't have much luck on finding information on how to do this, so I decided to make this tutorial for those of you who are nervous about doing it. I've never installed audio equipment, so it's a first for me. Hope this helps someone with their installation.

Difficulty Level: 2 of 10.

Time required: 1 to 2 hours without being rushed.

Parts:
Needle Nose Pliers
10mm Nut & Wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
7mm hex socket with small ratchet (for rear speakers). Thanks to member CPA for this tip. Careful with the tint!
Wire strippers.
Black tape.
Torx T15 for front speakers. (thanks for member CPA for correct size).
Dremel to cut plastic (if speakers don't fit)


Step 1
Open the trunk.



Step 2
Remove the speaker covering (6 push pins). You can remove them with needle nose pliers.





Step 3
Lower the back seats.



Step 4
Remove push in pin and 10mm Screw from both sides.



Step 5
Unclip the side cushions with a flat head screwdriver. The second picture shows the clip so you can get a good idea of what's back there.





Step 6
Remove two screws with phillips screwdriver. Then pull the top part towards the right, and pull the bottom part up.



Step 7
Pull the speaker covering towards you to remove. The second picture shows the clip from the trunk that needs to be released when you pull.









Step 8
Remove the speaker connectors.



When I installed the rear speakers, the metal speaker frame against the metal deck caused a slight buzz. I bought a 3mm thick foam sheet at a craft store, cut it to fit, and used it to cushion the speakers. (It’s not a problem in the front, since the speakers sit in a plastic housing.)
Thanks for the tip CPA. :)



Step 9
Install your new speakers by matching the factory wires to your speakers by using the following:
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Tan
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Gray
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Brown
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow/Gray



Step 10
Open your door and remove the screws on the very bottom of the door.



Step 11
Remove one screw from the door pull, notice that the flap opens down. Then remove one more screw from the door handle, notice the flap opens up.





Step 12
You will now remove the plastic push holders around the bottom half of the door (the tan part in my case). Use your key to push in the center of the pin. This will prevent you from pushing to far and having the pin go all the way through and falling into the door. Then use a small flat head to remove the pin out.





Step 13
Pull the door panel like shown, from one side to the other. and rest it on your foot to keep from scratching it.



Step 14
Unclip the door handle rod and the window controls. Then you can completely remove the door panel.









Step 15
Remove the speaker.







Step 16
Install the wires for the new speakers by matching the factory wires to your speakers by using the following:
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Violet
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Yellow



Step 17
Test fit your speaker. If it doesn't fit you will need to remove the plastic surround and cut out the black plastic like shown in the second picture.





Step 18
Install the speaker.



Step 19
If any white pins remained on the door (first pic), carefully remove them (second pic), and put them back onto the door panel (third pic).







Remember to connect the window controls and re-clip the door handle rod. Snap the door back into place and replace all the screws and push pins.

Here is a pic of the speakers I installed with my aftermarket stereo. They sound great to my ears and I only paid $117 shipped for all four from Nextag.com



Hope this may have helped your installation. Enjoy!
 
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36
#2 ·
Nice writeup

I am however, happy with the factory speakers... pretty nice
 
#4 ·
Great write-up ..... definitely makes me re-consider some projects :D
 
#5 ·
While I won't be replacing the speakers, this is the best door panel removal thread I've seen by far. I do need to do that soon, but had several questions that your writeup answered without even trying. :D I'd give you beans if we had any, for sure.
 
#6 ·
Very helpful. great job
 
#12 ·
Great write-up. I wanted to see what was behind the panels before I removed them. I have a rattle on both doors at different frequencies. When I push on the speaker grill it goes away. It seems that the panel is padded pretty well so I don't know what else I can do to make it stop. Anyone else run into this??
 
#13 ·
Thank you very much for your help!!! I really appreciate all the time you put in on the write-up!! Thanks again!
 
#14 ·
Very nice write up. Thanks for sharing.
 
#18 ·
Thanks. I have another coming on installing a sub in the stock 8" hole in the back.

They're easy to take out in that case. Pull up on the bottom bench, then out. After that, you'll see the nuts you need to remove (4 of them, if I recall). Sounds like a big deal, removing the seats and all, but it's not.
Thanks Toxico!
 
#19 ·
Just wanted to say thanks to DynoXG for this great write up !! I installed 4 6x9 JBL's this past weekend using your TUT and it was bang on.

I would just like to add that the rear speaker screws that point to each corner of the car are a ***** be careful if you have a tint..

Other then that it was really easy.

I would recommend replacing the factory base speakers the difference was amazing..
 
#21 ·
wow thx man...
 
#22 ·
Awesome write-up!!!!!!

Could anyone tell me, when you hooked up your aftermarket stereo did you have to tap into the cigarette lighter to get a 12v on/off sigal? (hope that's clear)

Also, when you installed the door speakers did you have to bypass the factory amp or is there a special wire harness you used that just bypassed the factory amp?

Sorry if these questions have been asked but I'm very motivated to do this and just want to be clear on any obsticles.

Thank you
 
#23 ·
Question 1: Yes and No.
If you are going to add an aftermarket stereo and bypass your amp, then yes you can tap into the lighter to get the 12v. Also, the bypass wire harness can be purchased at crutchfield.com for about 30.00 bucks.

If you are going to add an aftermarket stereo and keep your amp, then no. If you plan to keep your amp you will need to get a "turn on interface" harness. Crutchfield also has this one also. The harness number is CHTO-01. This will run you about 80.00 bucks.

Hope this helps..
 
#24 ·
Thanks very much that helps alot.

One last question, If I go the route of aftermarket stereo bypassing the factory amp, does the factory speakers get the full wattage of the aftermarket radio? If so are they capable of the extra wattage at mid volume levels of listening?
Triyng to figure out if its best to wait to get replacement speakers with aftermarket radio or if it's cool to do one project at a time without having a car sounding crappy.

Thanks again
 
#27 ·



Uhh, What?
 
#26 ·
good write up! how would I be able to add some subs to my factory set up? Is their a harness I can use to connect an aftermarket amp to my REC nav?
 
#29 ·
Your write up was a time saver!!!:bowdown:
Thanks,
John :beer_yum:
Thanks JohnHoo. :bigthumb: :icon_biggrin:




Uhh, What?
I'm not sure if everyone's speakers are 4ohm. I have the base system that only has the four speakers with no amp. So perhaps the rating on mine is different from the higher up system with the amp.
 
#32 ·
Since this is my first post, I want to send a very big "Thank You" out to DynoXG for this tremendous tutorial. This was the thread that brought me to Charger Forums in the first place, and I’ve learned a great deal from all of you since then. Dyno, your photos and instructions are so professional, you should do this for a living! Many, many thanks.

Thanks also to Ryval for his input on many audio topics, especially the advice that “more speakers don’t equal better sound, better speakers equal better sound.” Armed with that advice and this tutorial, I replaced the four stock speakers in my 2008 SE Plus with Pioneers. I used TS-A6972R’s in the front (the same ones DynoXG used) and Pioneer TS-6982R’s in the back. The upper frequencies are much clearer now (since the stock speakers don’t include real tweeters), and the overall sound is much better.

Although DynoXG’s tutorial was excellent, let me add a few tips for anyone (like me) who isn’t mechanically inclined:
  • I found that using a 7mm hex socket on the rear speaker screws was easier than using a stubby Phillips screwdriver, since the window leaves very little room and the ratchet is shorter.
  • A Torx T15 fits the front speakers.
  • When I installed the rear speakers, the metal speaker frame against the metal deck caused a slight buzz. I bought a 3mm thick foam sheet at a craft store, cut it to fit, and used it to cushion the speakers. (It’s not a problem in the front, since the speakers sit in a plastic housing.)
Thanks again to all.
 
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