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#11 Old 01-18-2013, 11:31 AM
IBDAGRIZ
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All excellent questions that I am unable to answer with a lot of accuracy.. The runners are there to help with air velocity in the manifold, so no clue on running it without it hooked up or what it would do. Nothing is my guess until you pressed the pedal for more fuel. Then it may start to open.

If you can't find the thread on here, check the LX forum or the other one like this with a different last letter. It is there somewhere cause I had no clue on how/what they were till I read the story on repairing it..

Griz
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#12 Old 01-18-2013, 11:34 AM
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I found this on the TSB for this issue

"By hand, rotate the SRV shaft (in manifold).
The shaft should rotate freely within 60 degrees as follows: (CS 11 O'clock to 9
O'clock — JS 1 O'clock to 3 O'clock — LX/LE 8 O'clock to 10 O'clock). If the shaft
binds within these ranges, replace the intake manifold. If the shaft rotates freely,
replace the SRV actuator.
"

So the SRV should turn from 8 o'clock to 10 o'clock position freely. Mine is doing that with no binding. The actuator binds when I try to twist the shaft with my fingers counterclockwise.

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#13 Old 01-18-2013, 11:44 AM
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The way I read that is you only have the one actuator ( Correct? ) so yours should be the last one of LX/LE 8 o'clock to 10 o'clock which is clockwise.. At least that is how I see it..

I also think the "replace the intake manifold" is their way of removing money from your wallet when it may be possible to clean the inside of where the runners are inside the intake with some effort.. Shop mechanics are essentially part pushers these days with very few knowing how to troubleshoot simple stuff. No shop sweats on new hose fittings on A/C systems. They replace the hose. Why? Quicker and more money than removing it and simly replacing the fittings.. I've had A/C hoses they wanted over $200 to replace when I got it fixed with a new fitting for $40..

It's lazy to me, but a money maker to the shop, out of yoiur pocket..

Griz
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#14 Old 01-18-2013, 11:55 AM
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I guess I should go get some carburetor spray and try working the actuator with it. How would I spray it though? There is almost no space around the metal shaft on the actuator. Do I just spray the base of the shaft and wait for the fluid to seep? Any recommendations on some good spray?
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#15 Old 01-18-2013, 07:12 PM
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Used some Berryman B-12 spray and it did not help. I guess I need a new SRV actuator.

I also noticed the smell of gasoline when turning my car ON for just about a minute. Does it have anything to do with the SRV issue?

Last edited by fluffykush; 01-18-2013 at 07:19 PM.
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#16 Old 01-18-2013, 07:48 PM
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What the heck...I found a post on diablopredator forum about the P1004 code, and this is what the description of the code is according to diablo predator guys

P1004 ECU Battery Feed & Power Grounds.
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#17 Old 01-19-2013, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluffykush View Post
What the heck...I found a post on diablopredator forum about the P1004 code, and this is what the description of the code is according to diablo predator guys

P1004 ECU Battery Feed & Power Grounds.
Wonder how they screwed that up.

P1004- Short Runner Valve Solenoid Performance.

If the valve in the Intake is working then the Actuator is at fault. The TSB also has you flash the PCM if it needs an update.

2011 Dodge Charger R/T Plus AWD- Redline-5.7L Hemi Registry #1650 Tbird100636

2006 Dodge Charger R/T- Inferno Red- Gone-5.7L Hemi Registry # 00696 Tbird100636
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#18 Old 01-20-2013, 01:52 PM
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Yea I'm going to order the actuator. The whole PCM flash confuses me though. Why would it decide to light up after 5+ years without the flash?
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#19 Old 02-04-2013, 03:55 PM
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So I replaced the actuator with the new part # that ends with AB. This thing works differently. The metal rod is on a spring and turns a lot easier. I installed it and cleared the code with my tuner. Went to fill her up and started her up again, and so far no check engine light. Fingers crossed
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#20 Old 02-07-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluffykush View Post
So I replaced the actuator with the new part # that ends with AB. This thing works differently. The metal rod is on a spring and turns a lot easier. I installed it and cleared the code with my tuner. Went to fill her up and started her up again, and so far no check engine light. Fingers crossed
Your story sound exactly like mine, Tried the same thing cleaning the SRV didn't work light kept coming back, got the same part you're talking about and never had a problem since. I think you'll be good now.

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