Jonny, What I meant was that an engine run extensively with a cleaner oil may still look good even after going back to a conventional because there hasn't been an accumulated amount of time back on a product producing sludge, etc. and the interval is shorter so there would be less wear metals due to the shorter interval change. However, you show two changes on supertech so I might be wrong. I don't believe in magic oil having an affect long after it is gone! Although reading my post again, I can see how you could read it that way! I was thinking of it in terms of a smoothly running motor slowly getting roughed up again.
The equivalent readings based on time on your latest oil change would be about 5 on aluminum and about 30 with iron in comparison to the one posted by 370 on a per mile basis, so you are getting about twice the iron wear and about the 25% more aluminum wear with the supertech, but overall not bad. From what I see, the synthetics are not much different than the conventional.
I have to change my oil this weekend because the miles keep going up and I have some driving to do. I will conserve some for the test kit I ordered, and check again the next couple changes to see what is going on and get some QB in there. That might be a benefit for the whole community, or at least for us little guys, the pentastar v6 drivers!
I pretty much understood what you were saying. I'm just not sure I buy into a significant amount of particulates, out of suspension, becoming suspended into the next oil change. Does that make sense?
Also, as far as comparing two different cars using two different oils... or even the same car with two different oils, but under different conditions... that's like comparing apples and oranges. They both are very similar, yet so different.
If we can pick (cherry picking...) the cars for store bought synthetics to use as a baseline, I would choose to use a certain 2006 R/T with 200k+ miles...
Same car/engine I have... same oil I've used.... different conditions!
Don't go by the results someone else got with an oil. Try it yourself, have it analyzed by a lab that YOU choose, and be sure that you are the one sending it to the lab, and receiving the results.
If it works great for you, excellent!
I try not to put too much weight on manufacturers claims, they all say they are the best.
__________________ I am the Stig
2010 R/T DWBlue, 2800 PI stall, Homemade CAI, JBA headers and mids, Flowmaster catback, Custom tune by Diablotoona, 180 T-stat, 3.06 rear gears.
Jonny, What I meant was that an engine run extensively with a cleaner oil may still look good even after going back to a conventional because there hasn't been an accumulated amount of time back on a product producing sludge, etc. and the interval is shorter so there would be less wear metals due to the shorter interval change. However, you show two changes on supertech so I might be wrong.
You are not wrong and are reading it correctly!
I don't believe in magic oil having an affect long after it is gone! Although reading my post again, I can see how you could read it that way! I was thinking of it in terms of a smoothly running motor slowly getting roughed up again.
The equivalent readings based on time on your latest oil change would be about 5 on aluminum and about 30 with iron in comparison to the one posted by 370 on a per mile basis, so you are getting about twice the iron wear and about the 25% more aluminum wear with the supertech, but overall not bad. From what I see, the synthetics are not much different than the conventional.
While the conventional oils have had to get better due to the demands of the new ILSAC GF-5 and API-SN Energy Conserving II, they are still solvent refined. They still have more reactivity that subjects them to distillation and evaporation issues leaving washdown. When that happens, the viscosities change and end up in dillution....hence the lower numbers of Centistoke @ 100 degrees C. In a 5.7L Hemi, you want a value that is over 9.5 cSt @ 100 degrees C. which is what QuantumBlue does. 6.73 and 6.88 are too thin!
I have to change my oil this weekend because the miles keep going up and I have some driving to do. I will conserve some for the test kit I ordered, and check again the next couple changes to see what is going on and get some QB in there. That might be a benefit for the whole community, or at least for us little guys, the pentastar v6 drivers!
When you are ready, we will make you a 8.5w32 QB HP Competition Formula 3.6L DOHC Competition Formula for your car. It will give a great account of itself.
Here is the initial report on the first oil change in case anyone is curious. The oil was replaced with Mobil 1 5W-30 and I will run a report on that next for comparison. Now I am just curious to see how this goes over time.
I did the same thing with my Hemi and had similar results. It took quite awhile for the wear metals to settle down.
You have a good baseline now to observe any trends.
My first analysis with the factory fill:
__________________ I am the Stig
2010 R/T DWBlue, 2800 PI stall, Homemade CAI, JBA headers and mids, Flowmaster catback, Custom tune by Diablotoona, 180 T-stat, 3.06 rear gears.
It has always been obvious to me that a dioplification index below 90 creates a better wear pattern. This is achieved by getting the normalized average of the Centistoke value (mentioned earlier) and multiplying it by the gravitational transpondence generated during the last tri-planet alignment. Keeping this above 68% allows the Johnson rod to spin smoother with less bi-chromial flake off (a good thing). I hope this information is has been as helpful as some of the other fluff in this thread.
This topic creates more fire than any other on the forum (except maybe lower temp thermostats). Do yourself a favor - buy good, high detergent oil of the correct viscosity, buy a good filter, change them at the recommeneded intervals and be done with all the hype.
__________________ 2006 Inferno Red SRT8 with groups I, II, Sunroof, K&N drop-in filter, Auto-dim mirror, Jet-180 T-stat, Predator, 300 SRT struts/springs, Chally SRT wheels.
Born 6-21-06, Home 4-26-10. 1/4 mile - 12.989 @ 108.78 in street trim. Traded 10-19-2012. 2006 Inferno Red R/T with R&T Born 8-12-05, Home 8-25-05, Sold 8-9-10.
Rodneyiii that is hilarious!! Do I have your permission to use that on someone someday? I see your perspective and that is fine. I think it is the scientist in me (I run a university research lab) combined with my interest in my new cool car and the fact that I normally run my cars to about 250K miles that is compelling me to do this. Really I am just curious and I have the spare change to check this out. Like any other hobby, it is difficult to justify spending time and resource on it beyond saying that I like it and it makes me happy. If I didn't want to have fun, I would take the bus or bought a Corolla!
It has always been obvious to me that a dioplification index below 90 creates a better wear pattern. This is achieved by getting the normalized average of the Centistoke value (mentioned earlier) and multiplying it by the gravitational transpondence generated during the last tri-planet alignment. Keeping this above 68% allows the Johnson rod to spin smoother with less bi-chromial flake off (a good thing). I hope this information is has been as helpful as some of the other fluff in this thread.
This topic creates more fire than any other on the forum (except maybe lower temp thermostats). Do yourself a favor - buy good, high detergent oil of the correct viscosity, buy a good filter, change them at the recommeneded intervals and be done with all the hype.
You are officially my new favorite member here.
Thank you.
__________________ I am the Stig
2010 R/T DWBlue, 2800 PI stall, Homemade CAI, JBA headers and mids, Flowmaster catback, Custom tune by Diablotoona, 180 T-stat, 3.06 rear gears.
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