SRT Engineers Chat Session - February 3, 2010, 6pm - 8pm EST

[AF_Don]

SRT Engineers Chat Session - February 3, 2010, 6pm - 8pm EST

This thread will be opened prior to the chat to allow questions to be asked in advance.

Participant Guidelines:

• Keep all questions on topic and related to the SRT lineup of vehicles (off-topic posts will be removed)
• Direct ALL questions to the SRT Team AND allow the SRT Team to answer ALL questions (no member-to-member replies)
• Before you post a question, review existing posts to avoid repeats
• Limit each post to 1 or 2 questions and be as brief and clear as possible, including the SRT model your question references
• Allow time for a response - questions are not answered in order of post. If it appears you were missed, AND the same question was not previously answered for someone else, you may re-post before the session ends
• The SRT Team cannot answer questions about future product, PLEASE do NOT ask

[HEMEEE]

The thread is now open for your questions...

PLEASE follow the participant guidelines!!

[sniper226]

While I love my Challenger, I think Dodge missed the mark when it came to programming the SRT automatic transmission for the following reasons:

1) Shifts are way to early in the RPM range in Drive
(This may be for fuel mileage and EPA standards and therefore, understandable)
2) Throttle response is sluggish unless the car has been 'schooled' into sport mode.
After ‘schooling’ it performs like a SRT branded car should in which it then effectively demonstrates the ability of the engine.
3) Up-shifts are programmed to up-shift to early in the RPM range on WOT.

I propose a 'Drivability update' that manually puts the car into 'sport mode' when autostick is engaged.
This update would allow instant throttle response.
Eliminate most (or all) of computer torque management.
Extend the RPM range before an up-shift is performed beyond up-shifts in Drive mode under WOT conditions.

I KNOW this would make a lot of people happy. Now who do I talk to in order to make this happen?!

[Cuda340]

Synthetic oil is installed at the factory for SRTs. Some have stated that because synthetic oil is so slippery, the rings and cylinders will glaze and not seal properly. This could result in excessive oil consumption. Any truth to this?

[Cuda340]

What causes the Hemi “ticking” sound that is heard in idle and just off idle? I have read that it is caused by a lack of cushioning of the intake/exhaust valves and fuel injectors, and wearing off of the moly piston skirt coatings.

[rick s]

Hello Guys,

Thanks again for allowing us to pick your brains.

09 Challenger SRT:

Air Filter Elements: My car is a daily driver. On the way to work I drive past a rock quarry. At least twice a week the road I drive on is pretty "dusty" for about 1,000 feet. My question is: Will a high performance air filter, such as a K&N drop in filter, provide me with enough filtration?

When I look at a stock paper filter, I cannot see through it. When I look at a K&N, the "holes" look pretty big to me. Will a K&N provide enough filtering to protect my engine in the long term?

Thanks,
Rick

[Cuda340]

There is a lot of welding bead inside the port of the SRT’s clam shell headers. Would grinding them smooth produce a better air flow and any more horsepower?

[BobT]

Would SRT exhaust manifold /headers increase HP enough to warrant buying a used set for a 5.7 ? Or would the $ best be spent on a regular header? Thank You, You people make GREAT stuff.

[rick s]

09 Challenger SRT:

Engine Oil Capacity: I know this has been brought up before; but, I don't remember seeing a final answer.

I have changed my oil twice. 7 quarts overfills my car. The second time I changed the oil I drove the car for 30 minutes, jacked up the back end so the car was level, and let it drain for 10 minutes. Then I jacked up the back end even more for another 10 minutes. Then I set it level again for another 10 minutes.

I loaded up and installed a new Mopar 899 filter, and then put a grand total of 6 quarts in. I drove the car for 10 minutes and parked it in my level garage. I checked the oil level after 10 minutes, 30 minutes, the next morning; and then drove the car the next day and did the same.

(Full)
<><>
--E--
--F--
--A--
--S--
<><>
----------
D
D
A

With 6 quarts in the car my level reads at the "S" mark. Which is a little above the ADD mark.

I then added 246ml more (about one-fourth of a quart) and checked the oil every way mentioned above.
It now reads between the "E" and the double diamonds. Which is real close to Full.
Note: I found that to get the easiest-to-read reading, I turned the dip stick around so the word "Oil" faces the rear of the car.

6 and one-fourth quarts fills my car. 7 quarts over fills it.
Many others have experienced the same, while many others say 7 quarts puts their SRT Challenger at full.

There is no mistake that there is a problem. I have not had the opportunity to try someone else's dip stick.
Either the dip sticks are different, the dip stick tubes are installed differently, or there are different capacity oil pans.

It is not a figment of our imagination! (I've been changing oil for 35 years)
We are allowing time for the oil to drain.
We are draining the car with it level.
And we do know how to change the oil.

Please address this problem and provide us with an answer.

Should we install 7 quarts, re-mark our dip sticks, and run the car "overfull?"

Thanks,
Rick

[widde2]

Hello SRT crew

Thank you for letting us ask you questions. Keep up the good work. Really appreciate this.

Car: Dodge Caliber SRT4 2009
Question type: Supension
Question background:
I was forced to "curb" the car due to a moron forced me to turn up on the sidewalk to save me and the car, luckily there were no persons on the sidewalk.
But, the car took damage, had to replace both front and back rims, and the suspension got a "whip". The shop did an alignment check and "repaired" the suspension, so they said...
I now got the following measurements:
Caster FL: +2.85
Caster FR: +1.40 <-----Wrong, not in range (+1.50 to +3.50)
Camber FL: -0.50
Camber FR: -0.55
Total F toe: +0.15

Camber RL: -0.90
Camber RR: -1.35 <-----Wrong, not in range (-0.9 to -0.1)
Total Toe: +0.20
Thrust: +0.00

The shop says they can't "fix" the suspension anymore and I even asked them to fix it again as the specs arent withing the ranges. They took the car and then said they did some adjustments but the results are still not according to factory specs (according to me). But the shop showed me "their" specs (which werent from the servicemanual) and according to them the alignment is in range.
Now the car is drivable, first time i got it is was soo nervous it was really ridiculus. But after the latest fix, i havent been able to get it to the track, as its winter in Sweden and no track is really open So i havent really tried it out on Auto-X yet. But during "road" driving it feels ok, but i havent really pushed it.

I need a second opinion.
I still got this case open from the insurance company, and i got the latest status that i can drive the car for a while to see what wear and tear i got on the tires and then do some more discussions to the shop, if there are any complaints. I still got 2 more years of warranty on the car. So thats no issue, but I feel like the shop is trying to pull a fast one. Especially as the manual says...

No adjustment can be made to the caster setting on this vehicle. If the vehicle’s caster is not within alignment specifications, check for damaged suspension components or body parts.

and

Rear camber settings on this vehicle are determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by the location of the vehicle’s suspension components. This is referred to as Net Build. The result is no required adjustment of camber toe after the vehicle is built or when servicing the suspension components. Thus, when performing a wheel align-
ment, rear camber is not considered an adjustable angle.

I guess the shop just wants to get some easy cash.... as its a insurance job. And they havent changed any suspension parts what so ever and dont want to even discuss that...so they just tries to fix it the fast and easy way (loosening the nuts and bolts and takes a hammer to the car) *shudders*. This is a large and of Dodge Sweden and Chrysler insurance company of Sweden approved shop! When i asked how they fixed the suspension they just said, we adjusted it...How the heck do you adjust an unadjustable angle? they didn't even want to answer that question. The shop manager just looked at me as i was an idiot for asking how they performed a task on my dear Dodge.

Question 1: What are the correct alignmentspecs for a CSRT4?
Question 2:What do you think and what can/shall be done to my suspension?

Thanks in advance
Richard