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Fixed! O2 Sensor

119K views 33 replies 16 participants last post by  djalbin 
#1 ·
:beerchug:

Recently I replaced an O2 sensor, easier than I thought and cel hasn't come on again.

Here's what i have:

2007 Dodge Charger R/T (w/out track pkg)
Check engine light came on and the diagnostic code read 013a. After some research that code means "O2 Sensor 1/2 - Rich or Lean"
-Dodge dealership wasn't completely useless for this, but not that much help, after the reasearch I had already done I was far more knowlegeable on this one small issue than the guy I bought the part from.

Between the Haynes Guide and dealership "Sensor 1/2" means "Sensor 1 Bank 2" = post cat passenger side

Cost for O2 sensor from Dodge dealership = $55.00
Time to replace = 20min (with no prior experience doing this)
Research time spent = approx 2-3 hrs (Reading Haynes, forums, talking to other members, friends, mechanics, dealer etc)

Steps:
1. Buy Haynes guide - invaluable, but really costs less than $50 and VERY worth it
2. Buy correct O2 sensor from dealer
3. MAKE SURE EXHAUST IS COOL BEFORE WORKING ON!!!!!!
4. Follow Haynes guide for replacement (uninstall = unplug, unscrew and reverse steps to install)
DONE!

Sidebar: I have a jack and jackstands, but I saw yesterday that Autozone sells these ramps that you can drive your ride onto, seems a lot better, costs about $50/ramp I think. (plus you can buy the sled to lay on, def on my xmas list this year :bigthumb: )

The Haynes guide says that after you've replaced the sensor you are to reset the PCM, and calibrate some things (more on that below). To reset the PCM I opened the trunk, and opened the cover to the spare tire compartment where the battery is on the right. Used a 1/2" wrench to disconnect the NEGATIVE (that's very important) and left it for a min or so, then reconnected it. This clears the settings and allows the PCM to lean the O2 levels from the new sensor. It will otherwise base it's readings off the old sensor and you will definately get the CEL coming on again. (I was able to test and verify this as I had an oil change and asked the guy to clear the codes, afterwards I replaced the sensor, then the CEL came on, reset the PCM the following day and no CEL since)

After that's done (and you've reset your radio/XM stations) the Haynes guide instructs you to recalibrate things such as the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) and any Power Up windows. There are instructions how to do these both HOWEVER on 2007 models it said that SAS must be recalibrated by the dealership - this affects the ESP. Dodge dealer also said that this is not necessary b/c it's just like changing a battery and you wouldn't recalibrate the SAS if you change a battery. I haven't recalibrated the SAS and haven't noticed any change in ESP, and I have def tested it :D

Well that's a long post for an easy fix. Hope it helps someone.

Derek :beer_yum:


RIP DIO :rocker:
 
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#3 ·
I don't have the part number, but the haynes guide has it all. Or you can remove the sensor and find the same one.

Follow up - unfortunately it turns out that there's some pinholes in the flex tube that's attached to the cat converter which is causing the O2 readings not to match pre/post cat. This is what's causing the cel to come on. I've heard a talented welder could prob fix that, otherwise replacements cost about $300 i'm told. Have someone perform a thurough inspection, or jack it up and check things yourself. I didn't realize what other things could cause that code 013a to come up, but start with a THUROUGH visual inspection, have a pro check it out, and if it's just the sensors replace yourself. Later
 
#6 · (Edited)
I have the same problem unfortunately. Found out after replacing both the o2 sensors and getting the computer flashed unfortunately. I spent around $350 before they isolated the real problem. They wanted $1200 to fix it saying the cats were bad and leaking.

Got up under there myself and noticed little pinholes leaking hot air.

I opted to get a predator and just shut them off instead of replacing the midpipes for that minor issue until I get a good deal on some mid pipes.

I dont have the exact part number but I got mine from here just fill in car details and type in oxygen sensor
 
#4 ·
Bank 1 sensor 2 is divers side rear sensor (post catalytic converter) This sensor is mainly used to be sure the catalytic converter is operating properly. If this sensor fails, no harm is done, and nothing is compromised as far as performance. However, you will not be able to pass emission.
 
#5 ·
I have a V6 model and wound up getting the correct O2 sensor at NAPA auto parts for $36. They were the only ones that had it though. It's also a Bosch platinum, so you know it's a aquality part. Just my 2 cents.
 
#12 ·
Always a good idea to double check. :)

I just noticed that you have a V6 (sorry about that). On your engine Bank 1 is the passenger side and Bank 2 is the driver's side. It's the reverse on the V8 engines.

Sensor 1 is before the cats and sensor 2 is after the cats. It's the same on either engine.
 
#13 ·
Oh lol... I replaced the pre-cat sensor on the Passenger side and then drove it for a while to eventually get a CEL Light again. Luckily, I saved the old sensor. I'll put it back in and swap out the one on the drivers side. Where are you getting this info from? Thx again sir!
 
#16 ·
You are going to have to communicate more clearly. I'm not really sure what you are talking about. The O2 sensors are for catalytic converter efficiency and won't cause popping or pinging.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Car has no proformce in other words but runs fine.
If you are getting a backfire through the intake you either have a burned valve/valve seat or your cylinders are misfiring. Is there a "Check Engine" light on? Have you tried pulling codes?

You can get the codes yourself with the key...

Get in the car, close the door. Perform the following steps fairly quickly (less than 3 seconds) :

Turn key to ON
then back to ACC
then to ON
then back to ACC
then to ON

If there are any stored codes, they will appear immediately, in place of the odometer. For instance an "INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH" error will set a code of P0113.

Once the codes have been displayed, you'll see "-----". If there are no trouble codes, the dashes will be the first item displayed.

After a few seconds, the display changes to "-dOnE-".
 
#23 ·
Was po131 o2 bank 1 catyalist not a vavle i know for sure on that its something not letting the car riching up under heavy trottle.new plugs new coils and compressen test all good fuel .like i said at it want take wot but if u keep the pedal in its sweet spot its ok
 
#24 ·
I'm sorry, but unless you start using complete sentences with proper spelling and punctuation, I won't be responding to any of your posts anymore.

This isn't some sort of text game, it's a Forum based on thoughtful discussion.

Proper communication is a skill that needs to be used if you expect to get meaningful dialogue.
 
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#25 ·
OK the car runs fine.till i give it a heavy amount of pedal.then it bogs out and falls on its face.never picks up speed or kick down.it like the proformce part is cutting out.something is making the car go into limp mode.has power to a point almost like its hitting a rev limter shuting down fuel or fire.sorry for the way i have explained it.
 
#27 · (Edited)
I have a 13 R/T with 77K and the cel came on yesterday. My mechanic said its the O2 senor and all 4 should be replaced @ $120 ea. I about feel over.

But after reading the above. Shouldn't his code reader be able to tell me which senor it is ?

And do you use some sort of anti seize stuff for the new one/s ?
 
#29 ·
my check engine light came on. had it scanned, said it was an o2 sensor. replaced them. engine light came on again, was an oil pressure problem. replaced both units, and changed oil, light came on again. from what i have read, dodge can be very picky. if you use the wrong type of oil, oil filter, or after market parts, it will let you know, it isn't happy. i thought the guy at the garage, was pulling my leg, but after some research, i found out he was right. he told me go buy real dodge parts, and the lights will go off, lol. everything works fine, but the darn light is always on. never knew, a type of oil, or oil filter would cause an issue, but people have had those problems. guess i have to spend the extra dollars n buy the real stuff. i don't remember, but i think the o2 sensors i used were bosch.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Still a relevant thread as it helped me tremendously so I am passing it on. 2008 Dodge Charger ALL 4 O2 SENSORS ARE THE SAME. 56029049AA at https://parts.moparonlineparts.com for 50 bucks or get some NTK on Amazon for like 30 bucks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NY0QQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

GBHF

Edit: BTW If 2 or more O2 codes come back it is 99.99999% NOT the o2 sensors, Dodge logic go figure. http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/keeping-3-5-alive-service-notes-chryslers-v6-engine/

Edit 2: I hear BOSCH are terrible for our cars and I tend to believe it. Just get them from my link, may as well do all 4.
 
#31 ·
:beerchug:

Recently I replaced an O2 sensor, easier than I thought and cel hasn't come on again.

Here's what i have:

2007 Dodge Charger R/T (w/out track pkg)
Check engine light came on and the diagnostic code read 013a. After some research that code means "O2 Sensor 1/2 - Rich or Lean"
-Dodge dealership wasn't completely useless for this, but not that much help, after the reasearch I had already done I was far more knowlegeable on this one small issue than the guy I bought the part from.

Between the Haynes Guide and dealership "Sensor 1/2" means "Sensor 1 Bank 2" = post cat passenger side

Cost for O2 sensor from Dodge dealership = $55.00
Time to replace = 20min (with no prior experience doing this)
Research time spent = approx 2-3 hrs (Reading Haynes, forums, talking to other members, friends, mechanics, dealer etc)

Steps:
1. Buy Haynes guide - invaluable, but really costs less than $50 and VERY worth it
2. Buy correct O2 sensor from dealer
3. MAKE SURE EXHAUST IS COOL BEFORE WORKING ON!!!!!!
4. Follow Haynes guide for replacement (uninstall = unplug, unscrew and reverse steps to install)
DONE!

Sidebar: I have a jack and jackstands, but I saw yesterday that Autozone sells these ramps that you can drive your ride onto, seems a lot better, costs about $50/ramp I think. (plus you can buy the sled to lay on, def on my xmas list this year :bigthumb: )

The Haynes guide says that after you've replaced the sensor you are to reset the PCM, and calibrate some things (more on that below). To reset the PCM I opened the trunk, and opened the cover to the spare tire compartment where the battery is on the right. Used a 1/2" wrench to disconnect the NEGATIVE (that's very important) and left it for a min or so, then reconnected it. This clears the settings and allows the PCM to lean the O2 levels from the new sensor. It will otherwise base it's readings off the old sensor and you will definately get the CEL coming on again. (I was able to test and verify this as I had an oil change and asked the guy to clear the codes, afterwards I replaced the sensor, then the CEL came on, reset the PCM the following day and no CEL since)

After that's done (and you've reset your radio/XM stations) the Haynes guide instructs you to recalibrate things such as the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) and any Power Up windows. There are instructions how to do these both HOWEVER on 2007 models it said that SAS must be recalibrated by the dealership - this affects the ESP. Dodge dealer also said that this is not necessary b/c it's just like changing a battery and you wouldn't recalibrate the SAS if you change a battery. I haven't recalibrated the SAS and haven't noticed any change in ESP, and I have def tested it :D

Well that's a long post for an easy fix. Hope it helps someone.

Derek :beer_yum:


RIP DIO :rocker:
I replaced my o2 sensor today he reset the engine light but it later came back on
 
#32 ·
Did you replace with a Mopar OEM sensor or an aftermarket brand? What diagnostic codes are being logged now? Which engine is in the car?
.
 
#34 ·
I have had a O2 sensor that was intermittent. It would operate correctly or fail depending on how the car was driven (good around town, fail on longer highway trips). You can wait for it to fail permanetly or replace it now. I just replaced it and no problems since.
.
 
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