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Grinding noise coming from engine/passenger wheel area?

21K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  Ddaddy 
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

I've been browsing the threads and have yet to see my specific problem.

I just purchased a 2009 sxt 3.5 HO. I was told they replaced the wheel bearings (not sure which ones) and was also provided with new tires. The grind (sounds like metal on metal. When riding with my gf (she was in the passenger seat) she said that the noise came from her front left. My grandfather told me that it sounded more to his right. When i am in park and rev the engine, it sounds great (no grind). However when i am in drive the grind is there. Could this be from poor brakes? They are squealing when applied.

Tks,

Brandon
 
#2 ·
Try jackin up that side and spin the wheel see if you hear anything
 
#3 ·
I took the wheel off and could hear the pads rubbing against the rotor. I changed the front pads and rotors. In the process when i had the rotor and pads back on, i spun the rotor and was able to eliminate the grinding with enough pressure on the studs. after putting the wheel back on and taking it for a drive, the grinding is not nearly as bad, but is definitely noticeable when applying the brakes.
 
#4 ·
Did you burnish the rotors BEFORE you put them on? One of the things that seems to have been lost from prior generations is the knocking down of the cutting groves that are left from surfacing the rotors. No matter how fine the grooves are, they are still there and act like a phonograph record and needle making the squeeling sound and also grinding.

Taking an 80 grit sandpaper wheel and using a cordless drill, crosshatch the rotors....knocking down the grooves completely to help seat the pads on the rotors so that there is no squeeling for the life of the brakes.

I was taught this by an old guy many years ago and have used this proceedure in all my brake jobs. People always ask how my brakes work as they never make any noise.

Now, the semi-metallic pads that we have will rust overnight and make a grinding sound. It takes a few good stops to get rid of the corrosion that happens even in 8-10 hours.

Here are a few pictures on the burnishing of rotors:









Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 
#6 ·
"just purchased" it should have a used car warranty, or was it private sale? Less than 36k miles on it?

If you bought it from a dealer, I'd have them fix it under warranty.

Does it do it all the time while driving, or only when you hit the brakes?

Replacing the hubs on a 2009 would raise my suspicions of crash damage.

Mileage on car?
 
#7 ·
"just purchased" it should have a used car warranty, or was it private sale? Less than 36k miles on it?

If you bought it from a dealer, I'd have them fix it under warranty.

Does it do it all the time while driving, or only when you hit the brakes?
It was purchased from a ford dealer with 73,000 miles on it. The policy for them is that "If it has over 50% wear at sale, they replace it. They put new tires on it and new wheel bearings. I work at a parts store so i can get reasonable discounts on the parts.

It did do it while driving on the old pads. It does still do it slightly with new pads but mostly with braking now.
 
#8 ·
Is it constant? e.g. you put it in drive and you hear grinding? Occasional? Only turning? Only braking?

Aftermarket exhaust? Jack up the car and inspect the exhaust from the cats to the tailpipe and look for signs of grounding out e.g. fresh scratches.

Anything bumping up against the exhaust can sound like its coming from everywhere.
 
#10 ·
It's when the car is in motion. I'm pretty sure its coming from the rotor rubbing the caliper bracket.
Something would have to be terribly bent or misaligned/installed improperly for that.

You aren't referring to the knuckle, are you? (big arrow)

 
#11 ·
I had this same problem but in the driver side rear... I totally forgot what it was but got it fixed at the dealer and costed me $300.
 
#14 ·
I believe it was the caliper bracket. i didnt have dash lights going off. I changed my rotors and pads before i went to the delear so i know it wasnt the pad or rotor
 
#16 ·
If it was the Caliper Bracket, like i think it was. Then yea it fixed it completely. I need to go home and look at my papers again. Im at work currently.
 
#20 ·
What!!! Wow!!.. Try this. Pull wheel off and put the wheel nuts back on the hub with washer if nessesary to hold the wheel rotor in its proper place. Take digital pictures if you have a camera and send us pics.
Rotate the hub and brake rotor unit watching where it would contact the brake bracket.
Pay carefull attention to the aluminum dust shield in the back. grab it and see if it is loose. They rust out and come loose and find a resting spot when the wind is pushing them and then positon themselves away from the rotor when the wind force is removed. Happened to me. Send pics if you can.
 
#23 ·
Ok so i just took the hub assembly off and greased it up a bit more and torqued it to spec. I then greased the entire brake system up. The rotor isn't scraping the caliper bracket like i had thought.

I took the car for a spin and at 25mph and below you can really hear it scrape. Metal on metal sound. Any ideas?

P.S. That hub assembly is new.
 
#24 ·
Have you checked the brake pad warning tabs? Often they are set too close to the rotor and rub making the grinding sound. They are made of aluminum alloy and designed to be set so that they make a grinding noise before the pads are worn out and do actual damage to the rotor...but often they are never checked when the pads are installed and aren't set to the correct distance (usually 1/8" from the bottom of the pad).

I've had to re-adjust more than a few of them over the years that were set incorrectly and were making noise long before they should.

The image below shows where they are...

 

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