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Anyone Install SRT 8 Brembo Brakes on a Daytona?

4K views 5 replies 6 participants last post by  Feros 
#1 ·
Has anyone installed the Brembos from a SRT 8 on a Daytona? If so, any issues to deal with? I noticed the Brembo kits list a non SRT kit and a SRT kit..whats the difference in them?
Will the Daytona 18" wheels fit with the Brembos installed ?? or is it time to spend some more bucks??

TC
Dtona 0420, the mod bug has bitten hard since I got this thing....
 
#4 ·
Yeah, my Dad (Meister) did this on his 300C - Brembos off an SRT - I can check with him for specifics, but it was much more than just the brakes. You'll need a fair bit of front-end parts; spindles, etc, IIRC. Also need new wheels. His are 18s - Borbet wheels - but they're the only 18's I've ever heard of that will clear the big Brembos.

You can PM him here or on LXforums, or post here (he's right next door... :grin:) I'll try to relay for you, if it helps.

Another option is the big brake kits from Wilwood, or aftermarket Brembos - they'll bolt on without replacing any other front end components, but I think you still need to do wheels...

HTH
 
#5 ·
I'm in the middle of this exact brake swap (I have a Charger RT with R+T) . Doing the Hotchkiss sways and KW V1's at the same time. Finished the front left today, should have the front right and rears done by Friday. The SRT8 brake swap requires the front spindles and rear "knuckles" off of an SRT8 to replace your standard components. The Brembo calipers from the SRT8 mount differently than the stock RT and Daytona items, so that's why you have to change the suspension components too. The SRT8 Brembos will not fit under a 18" Daytona wheel (at least on the fronts, the rears are somewhat smaller, so they might fit, don't know for sure). If Brembo lists a kit for the Charger RT and Daytona, my guess is the calipers are smaller and the rotor is kept to the stock RT sizing to allow this to fit. The SRT8 rotors are only appx .5" larger, but the calipers are much larger than the stock calipers on the RT or Daytona. The biggest thing so far in this swap that F'd with me was getting the ball joints loose. There is a rubber grease boot in between the control arm and spindle, as well as between the tie rod and spindle. You can't just drive a pickle fork in there to pop the ball joints, you'll tear up the rubber boot. I finally figured out that a small two-finger pulley puller would grab the spindle, while tightening the puller you can then tap on the joint with a hammer and they will pop loose.
 
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