View Full Version : HOW not to burn up your FCM when installing LED's
sound&security
01-12-2009, 05:03 PM
GLADIATOR-LISTEN UP!! these are your's. FIRST you get a set of 30amp double pull-double throw relays. WE HAVE 3 in this case cause GLAD HE ATE HER wants to run 3 groups of lights [hood scoop/upper grill/lower grill].
NEXT i jumped pins#86 and #87 on all relays to provide power to the relay's from the battery with 12 gauge wire. ARENT they pretty???:bigthumb:
sound&security
01-12-2009, 05:06 PM
NEXT-HE WILL BE MOUNTING HIS RELAYS ON THE INNER FENDER WELL NEXT TO THE FRONT FUSE BOX WHICH HOUSE'S THE [FCM] THAT WE DONT WANT TO BURN UP LIKE A FEW OF YOU HAVE ALREADY!:slap:
sound&security
01-12-2009, 05:13 PM
NEXT-he will be taping the jump point at the front fuse panel for his 12 volt power in to run the relays and provide the power for the LED's to run off of instead of tapping the light circuit and over loading the FCM and causing damage to it. REMEMBER to use a in line fuse between the relays and point of power. YOU can remove the bolt and lift up the power cable and attach your power for your relay's there with a #10 eyelet on to the threaded stud and then replace the cable down on to it and the red protection cover then replace the bolt BUT dont over tighten the bolt or you could break the side of the fuse box! [its only abs plastic].
sound&security
01-12-2009, 05:20 PM
NEXT step he will be installing his lights and grounding them as close to the point were he mounts them AS POSSIBLE. THE power wire for each group of lights will go to a single relay on pin#30 which will proved the power out to the lights he is mounting. SO hood scoop power wire goes to 1 relay pin#30/next set of lights goes to pin#30 on the next relay and so on. marked it with a red stripe for you buddy!!!
sound&security
01-12-2009, 05:37 PM
LAST STEP-since he will be runing 3 groups of LIGHTS hence the 3 relays because he wants to control them each on 3 switches-SO inside the car he will find a spot to mount 3 throw switchs. LAST PART-THE input side of the switchs will be grounded to a good bare metal spot [ the crash bar behind the service panel is a great spot] THEN the out put side of said switchs will have [EACH] A Length of wire RUNING threw the fire wall and out along the cowl in flex tubing and tie straped ALONG the way behind the motor and over to the relays were he will attach them [ 1 wire per relay] to pin #85 of each relay and hes done other then putting some flex tubing on the wires in and out of the relays to clean it up if he want's. WHAT this does is gives him the option of which lights he wants on or all on at once. IT also will pull the power to run them from straight battery power and theres no way to damage the cars electronics in any way. BECAUSE his interior switchs are throwing a ground to trigger the relays on there is no 12 volt power runing into the cabin of the car and threw the fire wall were trouble can start with a do it your selfer and ITS safer to keep all 12 volt power conections out of the inside of the car. i marked this one with a silver stripe for you buddy! And i want to see pic's when you done with it!!!!!!
Gladiator
01-12-2009, 06:20 PM
This seems pretty idiot proof the way you explained it and pretty much in line with how I thought it should work all though I didn't actually know how to make it work if you know what I mean? Thanks a lot Steve.
wickedchargerrt
01-12-2009, 07:04 PM
Idiot proof? hahahaha. lets wait and see
Another tip: if your just needing one relay for an accessory you can run your own wires into the front junction box and use a spare cavity in there for a super clean look. I've done this on a few nitrous installs.
And quit burning up modules people, crap aint cheap.
sound&security
01-13-2009, 07:00 AM
Idiot proof? hahahaha. lets wait and see
Another tip: if your just needing one relay for an accessory you can run your own wires into the front junction box and use a spare cavity in there for a super clean look. I've done this on a few nitrous installs.
And quit burning up modules people, crap aint cheap.
true on the open spots in the front junction box-but only some one like you and I know how to pull up that box and flip it to run our own wires into it. OTHERS could handle it but its not for the shade tree do it your selfer. i think you'd agree on that.
Gladiator
01-13-2009, 07:16 AM
:wave: Shade tree do it yourselfer over here! I have read about that but using in line fuses and tucking wires under stuff with ties is also clean and MUCH safer for me. I'm the guy that zapped his shop partner when we were hot wiring a shop engine in auto tech. Oops.:D
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