porting trunk

[like 2 b seen]

I have been looking at a lot of posts and I see people porting there sub boxes through the rear deck. I don't have a ported box but I still need to get some of the sound into the cab. My box is a wall with the subs facing the rear of the car, looks great but doesn't sound very good. Would it work if I made a large port from the trunk in to the cab through the rear deck? Or if anyone has any other suggestions I am all ears....

[Sublimeon22s]

I made a 4" port through the rear deck of mine right where the factory 8" sub would go, through the hole into the trunk. Made my mopar 10" Kicker sound better

[bighitter]

I ported through the rear deck in my 300 and the results were night and day! My sound went from muffled, cancelled out bass to loud, clean and ground-shaking (which is what I was looking for :) ) I highly recommend it.

Check out my cardomain page to get some details on my install.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2500759

[modesto83]

that is a nice set up. I think I will have to try cut the port this weekend and see what it sounds like. Because it is night and day when I drop the back seats and when they are up.

[bighitter]

I actually used WinISD software to calculate the port length based on my speaker specs and the size of my box. A box with a port that isn't designed properly can actually sound worse, so keep that in mind.

[modesto83]

well I'm planning on doing 2 13.5" w'7's in my trunk. Once I get the box built I will be hitting you up to tell me how wide and deep to make the port. I have one 13.5 w7 and a jl1000 amp puching it. It sounds good with the seats down but sounds like i have an 8" sub when the seats are up.

[bighitter]

That's exactly how mine sounded at first. I would find myself driving with the seats down a lot. I'll do what I can with the port size. The max size you can get through that hole in the rear deck is 6" x 4" (outside dimensions). WinISD told me my tuning frequency was 25Hz for my box, which is pretty low, but that's the best I could get with that port size. I'll see what I can figure out once you give me the box volume.

[modesto83]

well let me know what size port to use, even if I have to cut more into my back deck and use speaker cloth to hide the cut.

[str33tdreams]

I have been looking at a lot of posts and I see people porting there sub boxes through the rear deck. I don't have a ported box but I still need to get some of the sound into the cab. My box is a wall with the subs facing the rear of the car, looks great but doesn't sound very good. Would it work if I made a large port from the trunk in to the cab through the rear deck? Or if anyone has any other suggestions I am all ears....

usually my setups are completely sealed in the trunk(6 wall enclosure) with the subs facing each other in the box.

the only place for the air to go is through the mdf made port that connects from the top of the box into the cab, so there's really no nead for dynomat or anything similar, and ill put a plexiglass on the wall facing the trunk usually so u can see the subs when u open the trunk. imo, thats the best kind of closed trunk setup to have

[modesto83]

usually my setups are completely sealed in the trunk(6 wall enclosure) with the subs facing each other in the box.

the only place for the air to go is through the mdf made port that connects from the top of the box into the cab, so there's really no nead for dynomat or anything similar, and ill put a plexiglass on the wall facing the trunk usually so u can see the subs when u open the trunk. imo, thats the best kind of closed trunk setup to have

Wish you lived here so you could build my box for me. I def want a plexiglass in the back to show of the W7's with the JL logo etched in the glass and blue neon tube to glow.

[str33tdreams]

oh yea, and i have no problem cutting the metal to for the port to move the air for my subs. theres more a limit if u care about cutting

[str33tdreams]

Wish you lived here so you could build my box for me. I def want a plexiglass in the back to show of the W7's with the JL logo etched in the glass and blue neon tube to glow.


sounds hot, god willing i should be starting on my charger by the middle of june with my boy, he builds the boxes, when he does ill get some pictures of the install process up, and see if he can get specifications for the jl 13's. them mofos hit hard, i got 2 12" solo x's planned for mine

[modesto83]

sounds hot, god willing i should be starting on my charger by the middle of june with my boy, he builds the boxes, when he does ill get some pictures of the install process up, and see if he can get specifications for the jl 13's. them mofos hit hard, i got 2 12" solo x's planned for mine

That would be awesome if you can get the specs for me. Give me the dimenstions and I'll try to build it by self if I have to. Yeah I love the jlw7's but damn solo x's hit hard as hell too. My friend has 2 18" solo x's and it takes up the entire back of his 2005 tahoe.

[sLOWDOHC]

I ported through the rear deck in my 300 and the results were night and day! My sound went from muffled, cancelled out bass to loud, clean and ground-shaking (which is what I was looking for :) ) I highly recommend it.

Check out my cardomain page to get some details on my install.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2500759

that looks awesome. I would like to see mroe pics when its all back together.

[1Badass R/T]

i'm going to have to post some pics of my install.. I have been busy lately but haven't posted any pics.... I just finished carpeting everything last friday evening. My camera is dead here at the office.. i'll see what i can do.

I have 1 15" LVS Memphis in a plexi glass and mirrored box. I orginally designed it to have the sub facing the rear and when you drop down the back seats it would show off the plexi and the back side of the woofer with all the mirrored plexiglass inside the box. The box itself is frickin sweet, especially now i carpeted it with black carpet. It sets off the plexi and mirror 2X as much. Oh ya I also ported it through the back deck. I didn't have my port going up as high as big hitter as i wanted the box kinda removable. it was though firing directly into the hole to the cabin. It didn't hit as hard as it should have. I turned the box around and fired it into the cab and the bass was twice as much. the hole is still there in the back deck...

with my seats up it does kill it a bit.. but it's still not bad.

I'll be sure to post some pics soon. The local shop somehow lost there Termlab software, so i haven't been able to meter it. But the guys at the shop said i'm around 140db give or take.

[modesto83]

post up some pics when you can.

[bighitter]

I turned the box around and fired it into the cab and the bass was twice as much. the hole is still there in the back deck...

So with the sub facing the back seats, you're no longer porting into the cab, or is that port still there?

[IndianaChris]

I ported through the rear deck in my 300 and the results were night and day! My sound went from muffled, cancelled out bass to loud, clean and ground-shaking (which is what I was looking for :) ) I highly recommend it.

Check out my cardomain page to get some details on my install.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2500759


I just installed the same sub you have in my Charger with this box. Any suggestions on porting it through the factory hole like you did?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/images/normal/06vcvx122.jpg

[1Badass R/T]

So with the sub facing the back seats, you're no longer porting into the cab, or is that port still there?



well technically your right. the sub is firing into the cab so i'm kinda not. however as everyone knows there is still alot of bass comming out of the port... the problem now is that since i turned the box around the port that was designed on the side of the box to match up with the hole.... is now no longer firing into the hole... it fires direct into metal into the back deck.

I have thought about selling my sub and starting over... I almost got 2 MTX 9500 12" dual 4ohm subs. i was going to throw the pair in my charger... but when i met the guy and we threw his box with the pair of 9500 12"'s in my trunk.. it really didn't hit any harder than my 1 15"... and the guy was kind of a ****** anyways... there were used and he was being an ass on the price. he wouldn't budge 1 dollar. so i left.

[bighitter]

I just installed the same sub you have in my Charger with this box. Any suggestions on porting it through the factory hole like you did?
That box is already tuned to that speaker in it's pre-made design. They only way I would think would be to somehow take that port and extend it out of the box up into the back deck, without modifying the length of the port. You probably won't get the results you want with that box, because you'd probably mess up the port taking it apart from the box. That's just how I feel about it. But anything can be done.

[IndianaChris]

I'm a noob to systems but would you keep it facing the trunk or the cab? Does it matter?

[1Badass R/T]

What you could do is....

take the hole in your back deck from your stock woofer put a piece of wood up there to the bottom side.. cut a hole in the wood to be the exact match to the diameter of your hole. add some dynamatt if you have it. then you can take a few different directions.. you can either purchase some 4" or so PVC pipe and adhere it to the piece of wood to make a port like object or you could build it out of wood. a square port if you will. it wouldn't be a bad idea if you have a square port to use some wood glue or silicone to put into the corners to round them out.. (on the inside) when your done you can screw it onto the back deck. this will act like a channel or extension for your port.

this kinda of like what big hitter said but not screwing with your port in your box.. which i highly do not recommend. it is already tuned and glued, screwed, and sealed. if you screw with it... you will ruin it. bass will tear boxes apart anyways.. let alone going off and screwing with it.

i hope my brian and my fingers transmitted what i was thinking. if not just ask.

[modesto83]

I think if you got a direct port into you rear deck it wouldnt matter which way you face them but I could be wrong.

[1Badass R/T]

I'm a noob to systems but would you keep it facing the trunk or the cab? Does it matter?


The nice thing with a box that you have is you can move it around very very easily...

test it out. this is the best thing. place it facing the rear.. listen to a few songs...

take it out turn it around. listen to the same songs again.... make your decision based on your ear.

you will know which is best... trust me.

[BlkOnBlkSXT]

I have been thinking about this topic for a while but still not sure what I should do. I have a factory Kicker ported box with a 12" Kicker L7 Solobaric.

The port is on the side so how would I port through the rear deck? Just cut the whole and put a "tube" heading into the trunk but not connecting to my box? I usually keep the small section of the rear seat down but want to have a solution where I can keep my seats up.

[727ChargerKid]

For most basic setups if you havent already removed the factory sub go ahead and do that...that should help somewhat because it will allow airflow into the cabin through that 8 inch hole

[superbee#890]

i got tired of putting the seat down to get bass into the cabin, so i removed the factory kicker amp and bracket from the rear deck. on the factory kicker system with trunk sub it mounts into the 8" hole in the rear deck where the boston sub would be. i had to pull the rear deck carpet to unbolt the amp bracket so i went ahead and dynamatted the top and bottom of the rear deck. with the 8" hole now open i cut a 6.5" hole in the rear deck carpet, covered an old momo grill and mounted to the top side of the deck. i then cut a 8" hole in the underside trunk carpet and added some acoustical cloth to conceal it a bit. now with the seats up the bass makes it into the cabin much much better. the nice thing is that it relieves some pressure in the trunk, thus cutting down on rattles. later on i may have a box made that is ported right threw the deck, but for now it's ok. my subs are 2 12" JL w3's sealed rear firing, running off a jl 500/1 amp. just thought i'd share my setup.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/superbee890/001-1.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/superbee890/002.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/superbee890/003-1.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/superbee890/065.jpg

[1Badass R/T]

I have been thinking about this topic for a while but still not sure what I should do. I have a factory Kicker ported box with a 12" Kicker L7 Solobaric.

The port is on the side so how would I port through the rear deck? Just cut the whole and put a "tube" heading into the trunk but not connecting to my box? I usually keep the small section of the rear seat down but want to have a solution where I can keep my seats up.


You can always turn your box onto it's side so the port is on top... then if you want to make it look better unscrew your sub.. rotate it untill it is right side up and now you have a box that is ported threw the top. You haven't really changed anything besides a cosmetic change.. the dimensions are the same, the port is the same. the sub is the same.. just rotated. then just line up the port to the "port extension" you have built and it will help the flow. I honestly from your pic could not tell how big your box was.. so i don't know how close it is to the top of the rear deck.. maybe if you throw a pic on here with the box in the trunk and the port firing upward. it will show us exactly what your dealing with.

[sLOWDOHC]

I think if you got a direct port into you rear deck it wouldnt matter which way you face them but I could be wrong.

I would still have the subface the rear. It takes a long time for the bass' wave lengths to develop, and facing them foreward really shortens that time.

That box is already tuned to that speaker in it's pre-made design. They only way I would think would be to somehow take that port and extend it out of the box up into the back deck, without modifying the length of the port. You probably won't get the results you want with that box, because you'd probably mess up the port taking it apart from the box. That's just how I feel about it. But anything can be done.

I agree 100%

[1Badass R/T]

I would still have the subface the rear. It takes a long time for the bass' wave lengths to develop, and facing them foreward really shortens that time.



I agree 100%



Slow,

I have a question for you... I had my box which i am uploading into my photobucket right now.. so i will show you pics in a bit.. but when i had orginally designed my box to fire to the rear and port threw the back deck..

Well the bass wasn't ****.. I turned it around and the bass doubled.

I know of base wavelengths and cancelations and such... but why did sound so much better firing it into the cabin.

Do you think the dynamat has killed some of the bass.. what i mean is that the trunk may be a little "TO" sealed as in excessive. ?

[sLOWDOHC]

did you remove the factory sub and stuff?

http://www.indi-x.com/gallery2/d/1747-1/P1010076_001.JPG

this is a box I did in a 300 almost 2 years ago. it was rediculously loud. im almost positive that if I would have flipped it; the results would not have been the same.


its very rare to have a system sound better facing the front than the rear. Id like to see the pics.

[sLOWDOHC]

Ok I saw the pics, and to keep my response here (and maybe to help someone else)...how far is the port from the rear deck, and whats the inside diameter of your port?

[1Badass R/T]

Ok I saw the pics, and to keep my response here (and maybe to help someone else)...how far is the port from the rear deck, and whats the inside diameter of your port?

The port is about 5 inches or so from the rear deck... I was going to put a channel but after i turned it around.. it solved it right then.

the port is 7" x 7" square and it's about 10" long.

It moves a crap load of air.


Obviously now the problem is that the port is on the opposite side as the hole in the rear deck, and with out totaly redesigning the box i'm kinda screwed.

[sLOWDOHC]

I was always told (and have followed) this rule of thumb, that the port should be 7" away from any object; as its 7"x7".
(I hope I made sense)...

But, that doesnt really explain why it sounds better one way vs the other.

[1Badass R/T]

you did... kinda.

i am going to get it metered and i would like to turn the box around and fire it the otherway and meter it too. and see what the difference is on a TL.

Oh ya.. when the box was designed it was going to be about 7" down actually, not really on purpose for that number.. as i was going to remove the bottom factory board like piece and have the subs sitting down further... cause the plexi was going to be facing into the cab and it needed to be down a bit so it would line up with the opening.

[sLOWDOHC]

you did... kinda.

i am going to get it metered and i would like to turn the box around and fire it the otherway and meter it too. and see what the difference is on a TL.

Oh ya.. when the box was designed it was going to be about 7" down actually, not really on purpose for that number.. as i was going to remove the bottom factory board like piece and have the subs sitting down further... cause the plexi was going to be facing into the cab and it needed to be down a bit so it would line up with the opening.

you can maybe try removing that piece and see what happens. but Im not convinced that the sound will change. as it will be 7" from the deck, but still go through the port (as intended).

[727ChargerKid]

Ive been reading through this whole forum and i still have no idea how i want to set up my sub stage haha

[like 2 b seen]

Okay I am starting the install of my box on sat. Is there anyway that people with there box already ported through the rear deck can give some specs or pics or anything. I have a pair of W3v3 12's if that makes any real difference. I have an idea but it is better to ask the pros....

[cdimic25]

did you remove the factory sub and stuff?

http://www.indi-x.com/gallery2/d/1747-1/P1010076_001.JPG

this is a box I did in a 300 almost 2 years ago. it was rediculously loud. im almost positive that if I would have flipped it; the results would not have been the same.


its very rare to have a system sound better facing the front than the rear. Id like to see the pics.


ABSOLUTELY TRUE. Tired of people always saying o you know youd get more if the speaker is firing toward cab? No, subwoofers need air and your simply turning your car into a box if you do it like that in theory. And there is almost no pressure inside the acual box, well the port has quite a bit of pressure but still face your woofers to the rear.

[1Badass R/T]

ABSOLUTELY TRUE. Tired of people always saying o you know youd get more if the speaker is firing toward cab? No, subwoofers need air and your simply turning your car into a box if you do it like that in theory. And there is almost no pressure inside the acual box, well the port has quite a bit of pressure but still face your woofers to the rear.


normally you would be right.. but i have found the opposite to be true in my given situation. In the past i have had subs facing to the rear and even upwards with awesome bass... but with this current set up... to the front has yielded the greatest amount of bass. From the people that have heard it both ways... it has doubled if not more. I am at a stand still in figuring out why... I built my box to be firing to the rear, however now i have it faced to the front to get the amount of bass i desire.

I have thought that since i excessively dynamatted my vehicle that has effected the bass.... don't know... but it is a theory.. and when it is firing forward the dynamatt can kill the bass. I was thinking that since i have multiple layers that it is "doing it's job" and not allow the sound waves to pass through and it is deadening it. maybe i am barking up the wrong tree here, not sure... I am certainly open for discussion...

So far no one has given me a answer...

[sLOWDOHC]

the dynamat was 3-5 layers in most places. the rattling wasnt bad, but the roof, and even the doors still flexed. the trunk latch actually broke. its different in the 300's than the chargers; its only held only two tiny spot welds. adding the dynamat made the thing heavy and slam very hard.

in this car, the bass also disconnected the connector for the trunk release. and the 300 dont have a key cylinder on the trunk. getting it open was fun.

this was probably the second loudest car I have ever done.

[1Badass R/T]

the dynamat was 3-5 layers in most places. the rattling wasnt bad, but the roof, and even the doors still flexed. the trunk latch actually broke. its different in the 300's than the chargers; its only held only two tiny spot welds. adding the dynamat made the thing heavy and slam very hard.

in this car, the bass also disconnected the connector for the trunk release. and the 300 dont have a key cylinder on the trunk. getting it open was fun.

this was probably the second loudest car I have ever done.


Details my friend.

What kind of subs are they.. what size of amp ...

[sLOWDOHC]

rockford t2 12" (70lbs each) and a rockford bd 2000.1. all my bd's have been reading well over 22-2300wrms on the birth sheet (the 2000's obviously).

in that pic, its hard to see, but the port was 6" wide. :D serious air movment.


the one car I did that was louder, was the 95 SS with the 2 15" t2's with two orion 2500d's.