MoPower Shaker Hood Conversion Step By Step

[MoPower]

Here is a great source for all those considering this Mod. I took the liberty of taking pics while performing this conversion for SRT-BILL. Soon I will install it on his SRT8 Magnum and have it painted black. Enjoy!
This is the stock donor hood from a Magnum, but for the Charger it is the same exact process.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/1.jpg

Flip the hood upside down and remove the squirter with pliers.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/2.jpg

Next, 2" masking tape is put on the areas to mark on the hood. Mark the center line of the hood by measuring, then replace the squirters. Do NOT trust your eyes on this part. If the light source in not directly centered above, it will throw you completely off and look NOT centered when it is or vice versa. Align the template by followinig the location of the squirter nozzels and rear of the hood, which are in the exact same location on the Charger and Magnum. The width and the front of the hoods are different.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/4.jpg

Using scissors, cut on template on the lines, including squirter holes.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/5.jpg

Stretch out pattern and tape on in a wagon wheel pattern. Make sure you stretch it tight, the center line is centered, and the squirter align in the holes.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/6.jpg

[MoPower]

Using a pen, mark the hood where the center hole will be cut out.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/7.jpg

Remove the template, and this is what it should look like.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/8.jpg

Cover the area to be cut with 2" masking tape and redraw the lines. You will able to see through the tape. This will protect the paint from the jigsaw action to come.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/9.jpg

Using a 1/2" or larger hole saw, take a deep breath and saw the first hole in this general area. Be careful to stay in the line!
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/10.jpg

Next, go get yourself a good jigsaw and these blades. They are both sold at Home Depot. The blades are Bosch T345XF3 and they MUST be 6" long.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/11.jpg

Set your jigsaw so it will cut at about a 5 degree angle like this, so the bottom hole will be slightly larger than the top.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/12.jpg

Make sure the hood is propped up on the sides and start cutting. I cut this entire hole in about 2 minutes. A good jigsaw with these blades will melt through these hoods like butter, through all the braces in one shot!
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/13.jpg

Here it is! save the center piece for the paint shop to match the paint on.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/14.jpg

You can remove rough edges and fine tune th fit with one of these 90 degree grinders with a 3" 36 or 50 grit roloc pad.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/15.jpg

The bottom brace should fit right in nice and tight. If it doesn't, grind the areas that need it until it fits snugly.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/16.jpg

This is what it looks like from the top. The flange you see is the bottom brace area that bonds to the upper trim ring with the epoxy adhesive. This ties everything together for a super strong and stiff hood.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/17.jpg

If you are planing on bonding the brace, then take your grinder or 40 sandpaper, and scuff the paint so the adhesive will make a good bond.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/18.jpg

The 16 screws are enough, but if you prefer to also glue it down, or want to remove the screws for a nicer finish, it can be done using some urethane one part adhesive. I am now recommending 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive for this (found at Home Depot) - It is better than the PL Premium we use to use. To do this, just thoroughly cover the areas that will be in contact with the bottom brace
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/19.jpg

[MoPower]

Screw down the bottom brace with the 16 provided self drilling #8 screws. 6 go in the front, 6 in the back, and 2 in the middle on each side. The holes are pre-marked in the fiberglass. Later, you can remove the screws and install smoothe 1/8" pop rivits and paint them, you won't even notice them. Clean up the adhesive if needed with Naptha or Mineral Spirits. Next, cut the factory insulation down to fit with scissors or snips, and re-install with the push pins. Be careful, the insulation has sharp foil inside, and can give a nasty cut. (no pic on that one - ouch)
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/20.jpg

Next, use some more urethane adhesive to fill the gap between the hood and brace. This will not only make the hood stronger, but will keep the epoxy trim ring adhesive from squashing out on the inside. You MUST let this adhesive dry overnight, or your hood skin will get pushed in out of place in when trying to clamp the trim ring down in the next step.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/21.jpg

Test fit the trim ring. You may need to do a little sanding, but generally they are almost perfectly grinded and pre-scuffed on the bottom side. Once happy with the centered fit, draw a dark pen mark around the trim ring. With an sharp blade, lightly cut on the line and remove the inside portion of masking tape, then scuff or grind off the paint with a 3" grinder to make a good bond. The easiest way to mount the trim ring is to bond it to the lower brace with 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive (Home Depot) and use 1/4" double sided 3M tape between the trim ring and the hood. That way you can have the ring painted in advance and avoid the mess of bonding it on. If you prefer to bond on the trim ring, it can be done with a semi rigid epoxy adhesive called Dyna-Weld by Dynatron, found at most autobody stored.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/22.jpg

When working with the epoxy, to give the most time, you can chill the 2 tubes of flexible epoxy adhesive in the fridge. Next, after installing them in both caulking guns, use a black marker and put marks every 1/2 inch on the rods. This will allow you to measure and dispense exactly the same amount of each side. Dispense about 1/2 each tube, mix thoroughly, and apply generously with provided squeegy. Work quickly, as you only have about 10 minutes before it begins to slowly stiffen. (A helper in handy in this step) You should then clamp it down as pictured and make sure it is within the lines and down all the way. after an hour, it should be hard enough to remove the clamps.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/23.jpg

Next, if you choose, you can finish the bottom seam with bondo or duraglass putty. This is not necessary but does give it a more finished look on the bottom.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/24.jpg

Last step is to carfully cut around the trim ring with a razor blade, and peel off the masking tape. Once finished, you can apply a small bead of paintable ureathane seam sealer on the seam. If you install the ring with tape, the seam sealer is not needed.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Installation/25.jpg

If you do a clean job, it can turn out like this, The trim ring can be painted body color without the need to paint the entire hood again. This will save lots of money and you will not have the problem of the hood paint not matching the fenders and nose.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Shaker%20Hood/shakeryellow.jpg