How to Drag Race the RIGHT Way

[CHERRY]

First thing I would like to do is say HI to my Fellow Charger Enthusiast. There are some things that you need to do even before you head to the track. Are you ready ??? Print this list it will help. I have been Drag Racing for 33 years.


Items to take with you: Small ICE CHEST, 2 BAGS OF ICE, RAG,
OLD BATH TOWEL, TIRE PRESSURE GAUGE, SHOE POLISH (I use a brand called Dial In).

1.---Remove your spare tire and jack assembly--leave at home

2.---Remove the spare tire wheel well cover--leave at home

3.---Take a cooler with you that is big enough to hold 2 x 7 pound bags of ice

4.---Put the cooler in the car between the passenger front seat and the back seat {if you trust people just leave the cooler in your pit area}

5.---Buy Shoe Polish that wipes off with a rag. it is called Dial-In and it is made by Geddex: part #916

6.---Remove the engine cover (to let heat dissipate better from the
intake)--leave it at home

7.---Take one rag to wipe off the numbers when you are done at the track. Don't drive home with your numbers on your window as it is a FLAG waiving to the local Police. Also take an old bath towel with you and lay it on top of the intake manifold while the car is sitting in the staging lanes and put your ice on top of the towel. You are trying to keep the intake as cold as possible. Remove the ice and towel and put them back into the cooler before you make a pass down the 1/4 mile.

8.---Get to the track early. (try to get there at least 15 minutes before it
officially opens)

9.---Take a tire pressure gauge with you to the track. Adjust the rear tire pressure to 22 to 23 psi. The front tires move up to 42 psi. DO THIS AT THE TRACK ONLY AND THEN RESET BACK TO 32 PSI ON ALL 4 WHEN YOU LEAVE THE TRACK !!!!

10.--Try to let your car's engine cool of about 30 minutes between passes.You are trying to make passes when the water temp is around 150.

11.--Find out if the track broadcast in simulcast over your Charger's radio.
If they do set your radio to that station to listen to announcements and
lane assignments. ASK THIS WHEN YOU PAY TO GET IN....

12.--When you go into the staging lanes to finally make your first pass be
sure to TURN OFF the ESC and your A/C

13.--Have only 1/2 tank of gas (don't go any less as it will slosh to the back
of the tank--any more is just extra weight)

14.--Take all the stuff out of the glove box--center console--door
pockets--again less weight)

15.--Stay out of the water box !!!! (all that does is get water into your
tread) drive around it if you can

16.--Do one GOOD BURN OUT (just to clean off any debris on your rear tires)

17.--Now slowly pull up to the TREE and turn on the top yellow light (STOP)

18.--You now have 6 inches before the next yellow light comes on (try to go in slow and easy---once that light comes on and your opponent has both lights on the tree will come down.

19.--Start to power brake the engine to 1,500 rpm (but not much more)

20.--There will be THREE AMBER LIGHTS that will flash every .500 second
(try to leave after the 2nd one goes out but before the 3rd one comes
on)--some tracks have .500 as perfect others are .000 ASK an Official

21.--You are trying to cut a GOOD light (some tracks have a .500 as perfect others have a .000---you want to be as close to .500 as possible)

22.--Try NOT to RED LIGHT as you loose then.

23.--FLOOR IT until you get to the last set of cones---once you pass that--then lift off the gas and slowly apply the brakes--stay in your lane

24.--When coming back down the return road--turn on your DEFROSTER to
HIGH HEAT & HIGH SPEED FAN--also pop the hood and drive no more
than 20 mph (you are helping cool off your engine)

25.--Get your time slip and LOOK at your Reaction Time--your 60 foot time
and then see what you ran and if you WON !!!!) If you have a good memory write as much as you can remember on the back of your time slip; such as how much gas, grade/brand of gas, oil temp, tire pressures, Density Altitude,
launch rpm, in auto stick or drive.

26.--REPEAT---better known as practice !!!!!!

Have fun and be safe

Regards
Chuck Green

PS---If I can be of any help just ask in here and I will post up

*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-

This was added on 2-24-08:

Make sure to have your tires/rims ROAD FORCED BALANCED only.
Tires that are 18 inches do not like static balances.

Make sure you change spark plugs around 30,000 if you are racing a 5.7

If you are going to run a Drag Radial Tire then the following information will help you:

I bought an aluminum floor jack at Sears as it has handle on both sides. I also went out to a local bicycle shop and purchased a cable that they use to lock up their bike. The cable comes with a plastic coating so it will not scratch your rims.

I also purchased a Snap On cordless impact gun to r/r the rims and tires at the track, I take a 6 inch extension (1/2 inch drive), 21mm deep well socket, and a Snap On Torque Wrench. I tighten the lugnuts to 75 ft lbs first, then go to 95 ft lbs. Make sure you know where the jack points are on the car and take a small rug or towel to lay on to see where you are putting the jack.

[metgo]

Hey cherry, what do you think about using autostick instead of D. To me it seems like I get betters times if I put the car in autostick and just let it shift for me.

[06HEMI-R/T]

Great info cherry for the strip.:yes: As for (D) vs. +/- (Autostick) at the 1/4 I would go with Autostick.

[PimpLay2]

wow thanks i never drag raced

i am on august 25th at an old airport its LEGAL and i turn 18 on the 10th so i will be allowed


i aimt goin to try some of them tips thanks for the info n wish me luck!

[Hemiready]

wow thanks i never drag raced

i am on august 25th at an old airport its LEGAL and i turn 18 on the 10th so i will be allowed


i aimt goin to try some of them tips thanks for the info n wish me luck!
Good luck. It's probably hot by you today. Try and be patient and let the car cool off between runs. It's tough to wait though. Very addicting.

[CHERRY]

I do ALL My times done the track in DRIVE.
Yes, I know Auto Stick works, but I have never seen any advantage to it.


Make sure that you buy a GOOD Tire Pressure Gauge
One with a large dial face and pressure relief valve.
Check the pressures between each and every round.
Record all your tire pressures on the back of your time slip.

I also keep my water temp degrees recorded on the back of each slip.
I make it a point to leave the burn out box area around 140-150 degrees.
If you get to 180 you need to cool it longer before your next pass.

Let me know if you have any other questions

Stay Safe and have FUN
Chuck Green
The 1/4 Mile Master

[mcshocks]

Chuck care to share your shoulder roll technique for launching, I have been practicing pretty much daily on launching and it seems fairly easy in these cars to keep the power to the ground with no tire spin, granted I don't go WOT until a good 40 ft or so.

[metgo]

I am going to the track tomorrow for the second time, I think I am a little more prepared this time around. I'll let you all know how I did.

[CHERRY]

SHOULDER ROLL: this technique is one of the harder ones to learn, but once you grasp it, your 60 foot times will drop as well as your 1/4 mile ET times.

This is how you do it.

First go into your BATHROOM, or any place in the house that has a
BIG MIRROR.

You need to concentrate on your right shoulder area. So if you need to take off your shirt to see the movement of your shoulder, DO SO !!!!!!!

Put your hands on the on the front of your thighs

Now flex your right shoulder forward

Keep doing it for about 20 times to get the feeling memorized

Watch the movement in the mirror on each flex

NOW that is how fast I want you to apply the gas pedal to the floor.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

This will also work on Manual Trans equipped Vehicles.


Good Luck and stay Safe
Keep me posted on how you are doing
Regards
Chuck Green

[need4speed2]

Cherry absolutely fantastic info! My questions are as follows. How fast are you moving the shoulder (quick or slow). Would you agree that with the acclerator controlled by wire this makes this difficult? When i step on the accelerator (hard,quick,fast)most of the time the tires start spinnin. Too much fun. Love SRT Power. Would you recommend traveling maybe 10 to 20 feet then stomping the throttle. Too many nannies TCM and others on our vehicles! What a difference temp of our coolant makes on acceleration. Any concern of oil temp when you drag race car? Just curious what is the best 1/4 mile time ( any vehicle) that you have done (Mine was 9.9 at drag racing school). Again thanks for all your excellent advice.

[Charger4Life]

19.--Start to power brake the engine to 1,500 rpm (but not much more)


Chuck,

Since I installed a new cam and heads I was trying to launch at over 2000 rpms with the stock converter. My 60 ft. times got worse than stock. Is that the reason possibly?

Thanks

[CHERRY]

Chuck,

Since I installed a new cam and heads I was trying to launch at over 2000 rpms with the stock converter. My 60 ft. times got worse than stock. Is that the reason possibly?

Thanks

Once you changed the Torqque Converter you changed the way the engine and transmission hook. Unless you get a set of Drag Radials you will have to lower your launch rpm's to almost idle and then do the shoulder roll.

I would suggest strongly that you by by a set of Drag Radials and let the newly installed loose converter do it's job. Then brake torque it up and let the *fun* begin. :grin:

Regards
Chuck

[CHERRY]

Cherry absolutely fantastic info! My questions are as follows. How fast are you moving the shoulder (quick or slow). Would you agree that with the acclerator controlled by wire this makes this difficult? When i step on the accelerator (hard,quick,fast)most of the time the tires start spinnin. Too much fun. Love SRT Power. Would you recommend traveling maybe 10 to 20 feet then stomping the throttle. Too many nannies TCM and others on our vehicles! What a difference temp of our coolant makes on acceleration. Any concern of oil temp when you drag race car? Just curious what is the best 1/4 mile time ( any vehicle) that you have done (Mine was 9.9 at drag racing school). Again thanks for all your excellent advice.

I use to have a 1971 Duster with a mild 440 which was bored .030 and it had some nice pieces on it. It was a street car that I drove to and from the track and it went a best of 11.23 @ 122.76 on DOT Drag Radials and through the exhaust. This was back in 1986. Back then that was a FAST Street Car.

I will agree that the SRT is harder to launch but it still can be done. I have seen some high 1.90 sixty foot times on dead stock ones. I honestly believe that if you practice the launch and put in some ballast into the trunk of your SRT you can lower the sixty foot times into the low 1.90's.
I would start with 25 pounds on the driver's rear and go from there. Make 3 runs and record your slips. Then i would go to 50 pounds of ballast. Make sure to cool off between rounds.

Chuck

[need4speed2]

Thanks again Cherry. I would have to say you Dusted alot of cars with that Duster. Horsepower ,Gears and good tires! Gettin back to that shoulder rolling of the throttle by wire. I intend to take my Charger SRT to Atco during colder weather. Just fooling around with 0-60 I turned a 4.88 with tire spin ,80F, full tank,210F coolant temp. Do you concern yourself with oil temp or no big deal? I think there might be a low 13 or high 12 if I can hook a keep car cool. Everytime I try to take off there is wheel spin. Do you think I should walk the car for first 10-20ft then stomp on it or just go with some spin and hope for best? Doesn't the extra weight slow me down?

[SanDiegoChargerRT]

Great info

[Charger4Life]

Once you changed the Torqque Converter you changed the way the engine and transmission hook. Unless you get a set of Drag Radials you will have to lower your launch rpm's to almost idle and then do the shoulder roll.

I would suggest strongly that you by by a set of Drag Radials and let the newly installed loose converter do it's job. Then brake torque it up and let the *fun* begin. :grin:

Regards
Chuck

i haven't changed the converter. I was trying to launch at higher rpms with the stock converter. Would this affect my worstened times?

Thanks

[CHERRY]

Thanks again Cherry. I would have to say you Dusted alot of cars with that Duster. Horsepower ,Gears and good tires! Gettin back to that shoulder rolling of the throttle by wire. I intend to take my Charger SRT to Atco during colder weather. Just fooling around with 0-60 I turned a 4.88 with tire spin ,80F, full tank,210F coolant temp. Do you concern yourself with oil temp or no big deal? I think there might be a low 13 or high 12 if I can hook a keep car cool. Everytime I try to take off there is wheel spin. Do you think I should walk the car for first 10-20ft then stomp on it or just go with some spin and hope for best? Doesn't the extra weight slow me down?

At 210 your coolant temp was way to high, flip over to the oil temp mode and try as best you can to launch between 140 and 150. That means you may have to get you motor real cold (depending where your car is in the stageing lanes)--(front of it--middle--NEVER the end/unless you push the car up to towards the front).

One would think that the extra weight will slow you down. This is NOT always the case. It depends where the weight is placed and how much. That is something you will have to play with. I for one would NOT WAIT for 10-20 feet before getting into the gas as that will make it hard to be consistant and most of the racing we do now is on the Bracket Format.

Chuck

[CHERRY]

i haven't changed the converter. I was trying to launch at higher rpms with the stock converter. Would this affect my worstened times?

Thanks

If you still have the stock convertor do not go above 1,500 as wheel spin will become a problem with the stock tires as they will not hold the power. Granted you can stal it higher but it just brings on HAL and he is grouch.

Chuck

[SRT8_in_CT]

Chuck,

Thanks for all the tips .. I wish I read this before heading to the track this morning !! I did ice down the intake between runs but never thought of removing the covers and some of your other tips to dissipate the heat ....

What do you think ?? Last year I ran a best of 13.18 @ 105.6 completely stock off the showroom floor ... I dropped a K&N filter in the stock box and installed a Corsa catback system and the best I could do the past 2 times at the same track was 13.40's @ 104 ... Is there some way I should be getting more fuel into her since she's breathing more air ?? I'm a bit miffed, and the 13.18 wasn't a fluke as there were a few 13.20's last year as well ...

[CHERRY]

Chuck,

Thanks for all the tips .. I wish I read this before heading to the track this morning !! I did ice down the intake between runs but never thought of removing the covers and some of your other tips to dissipate the heat ....

What do you think ?? Last year I ran a best of 13.18 @ 105.6 completely stock off the showroom floor ... I dropped a K&N filter in the stock box and installed a Corsa catback system and the best I could do the past 2 times at the same track was 13.40's @ 104 ... Is there some way I should be getting more fuel into her since she's breathing more air ?? I'm a bit miffed, and the 13.18 wasn't a fluke as there were a few 13.20's last year as well ...

Do you have your slips from last year?
If so take your best slip from then and you best slip from today and compare them.
What you are looking for is the spread in the ET and MPH
It could be that the weather was allot of it as well.
If you could can you add them to the drag racing thread your numbers or pm them to me to see.

Regards
Chuck

[SRT8_in_CT]

Haven't found last years best yet, but posted yesterdays on the other thread. It was a cool morning yesterday, but still pretty humid, so I don't think that helped much. Gonna try again utilizing some of your tips... Thanks again Chuck..

[FlagHarbour]

my friends are talking me into taking my charger to MIR next weekend. i'm thinking seriously about it, but to be honest, i am a little nervous. ive never raced before, but i have had it up to 100+ on the highway.

i dont want to blow up my engine or tranny. nor do i want to look stupid or post a bad time/run. your tips are going to help (if i get up my nerve!).

i think i already know the answer, but windows should be up?

[phenwick]

I went for the first time this year and it is a blast. Here are some things I did to ease the anxiety:
Spend some time watching the cars line up and stage;
Go along with someone else thru tech and check in to learn where to go;
Ask anybody if you have questions, no one blinked at any of mine. The tech inspector was a big help, he even loaned me some long pants(required) for the night;
Take your time going up to the line, don't feel you have rush right up. Watch the linesmen hand signals, and they will help if your unsure about something.

You may want to inquire about helmet requirements; I technically needed one but no one said anything. I will be picking one up by the way. (any tips picking out a helmet from you guys would be appreciated).

Hope my very limited experience helps.

[masert]

my friends are talking me into taking my charger to MIR next weekend. i'm thinking seriously about it, but to be honest, i am a little nervous. ive never raced before, but i have had it up to 100+ on the highway.

i dont want to blow up my engine or tranny. nor do i want to look stupid or post a bad time/run. your tips are going to help (if i get up my nerve!).

i think i already know the answer, but windows should be up?

Anyone out there been to the track that's running 265/35R22's with Eibach lowering springs? I went to the track last night and came back very disappointed. I thought it might be due to the 22's with low profile tires. I was very consistent, all 15.5.. with my best time being 15.54 @ 89mph. Any suggestions from anyone???

[wickedchargerrt]

Anyone out there been to the track that's running 265/35R22's with Eibach lowering springs? I went to the track last night and came back very disappointed. I thought it might be due to the 22's with low profile tires. I was very consistent, all 15.5.. with my best time being 15.54 @ 89mph. Any suggestions from anyone???

please say your talking v6??? Best suggestion either way is put the stock wheels back on

[CHERRY]

i think i already know the answer, but windows should be up?

YES, you are required to have your windows up. Sometimes the starter might not catch the infraction but if they do they will tell you.

Have your friends Drag Raced ? If so, have one of them take you down the track in their car. You will be riding shotgun so to say. That way you will see what to do at your track.

Next, is to relax your emotions but increase your concentration.

Have Fun and Stay Safe
Chuck
:smoke:

[FloorPizza]

Wow.. fantastic information here, Cherry. Thank you very much! I'm going to be taking the Chawjah out to the track for the first time this fall when the temps cool off a bit. I'm going to print out the first page and tape it to the dash. :)

[CHERRY]

Wow.. fantastic information here, Cherry. Thank you very much! I'm going to be taking the Chawjah out to the track for the first time this fall when the temps cool off a bit. I'm going to print out the first page and tape it to the dash. :)

I would just try to read and memorize the list as best as possible.
It is kind of like making a Great Pizza.
One has to have all the right ingredients and they have to be applied at the right time and temperature.

Have Fun
Chuck

[desertcharger]

I hope to be going to a track in the coming months- also talking about renting a track for a day for the practice-
Thank you Thank you Thank you!:clap:

[wickedchargerrt]

Cold nights get you better times too am i correct? Thats makes sence and has been proven to me.

[wickedchargerrt]

my slip wont download readable so let me write it all
r/t .296 pro light cause they were mixing everybody up
60' 2.097
330' 5.97
1/8 9.124
1000 11.858
1/4 14.161
mph 98.04
in auto stick esp on

critique please cherry.

my goal is to get 100 mph in quater by the end of this year.

Mods at time of run = afe stage 2
mods now =blycream, 180 tstat, afe stage 2

i followed your guidelines last time, except the ice bag that i forgot. it was 95 degrees and we are going again here in a few weeks at night so there should be a drop in temp too.

[need4speed2]

If your still out their Cherry my question about that shoulder roll?

When I start accelerating I know that first 60 feet makes all the difference in a drag strip run. I guess first thing is make sure track sprays that VHT or sticky traction stuff before the runs. Make sure it's cooler ambient temp for best run but that shoulder roll is hit or miss for me. If engine is at cool temps I have lots of problems with traction on regular street roads. Practice Practice Practice. I know that but if I keep practicing the wrong way I lose.
Please help if you can because soon I hope to get to track @ Atco or Englishtown Thanks again for all of your excellent advice!

[CHERRY]

If your still out their Cherry my question about that shoulder roll?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

When I start accelerating I know that first 60 feet makes all the difference in a drag strip run. I guess first thing is make sure track sprays that VHT or sticky traction stuff before the runs. Make sure it's cooler ambient temp for best run but that shoulder roll is hit or miss for me. If engine is at cool temps I have lots of problems with traction on regular street roads. Practice Practice Practice. I know that but if I keep practicing the wrong way I lose.
Please help if you can because soon I hope to get to track @ Atco or Englishtown Thanks again for all of your excellent advice!

SHOULDER ROLL: this technique is one of the harder ones to learn, but once you grasp it, your 60 foot times will drop as well as your 1/4 mile ET times.

This is how you do it.

First go into your BATHROOM, or any place in the house that has a
BIG MIRROR.

You need to concentrate on your right shoulder area. So if you need to take off your shirt to see the movement of your shoulder, DO SO !!!!!!!

Put your hands on the on the front of your thighs

Now flex your right shoulder forward

Keep doing it for about 20 times to get the feeling memorized

Watch the movement in the mirror on each flex

NOW that is how fast I want you to apply the gas pedal to the floor.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

This will also work on Manual Trans equipped Vehicles.

Let me know if you need any more help.

Regards
Chuck

[DanielsPSD]

Hello, I've been trying to build my 3.5 to pull decent strip times. The dry curb weight on the car is: Base Curb Weight (lbs): 3648..and I've found up to 3725. I believe this is a significant amount in regards to the 1/4 mile. Right now, I have 18x8 inch centerline wheels that weight 20 pounds apiece. My stock steelies with hubcaps weigh over 40. So I'll be dropping even more weight with these new wheels. Right now, I have the 5psi Supercharger by Thomas Knight, with gains of 33%. I figure if my engine put 250 HP to the crank, and with the gains from my stock single exhaust, now dual x pipe with no cats/mid muffler/resonator, JBA shorty's ceramic coated headers, ESP delete (including accelerometer!), and the supercharger to all of that. What kind of numbers do you think I could expect? My family has raced MOPARS for years, and I've read your great write up on removing all the weight from your vehicle, I believe I can pull a decent launch, the bag of ice on to cool the oil, the amount of gas in the tank upon arrival, etc. Do you believe R/T numbers could be in my horizon???. I know there is more to do, I'm awaiting a tuner, and possibly 7-8 psi for the S/C, along with an intercooler possibly. Thank you very much for the great write up!

[need4speed2]

Thanks Cherry,

I will take your advice and practice. When you initially leave are you trying not to spin tires at all or just slightly haze them? I'll bet that if you drove my vehicle you would likely have a much better time than I would at the same track. Not Fair! The SRT has a lot of power off the line and I haven't even tried power braking vehicle to 1,200 rpm to start. I'll just keep practicing and again Thanks!

[Crazy8]

For the question about the helmet...some may say as long as it has a current SNELL rating, you are fine. But, there are two different ratings...M (Motorcycle) and SA (Special Applications...aka not motorcycles). SA rated helmets are designed to take impact on more than one side at the same time. M rated are designed to take impact on one side. Also, M rated are not lined with fire proof material (Nomex), where SA is. SA rated normally run $100 more than M rated. The real question comes down to how much is your melon worth to you? (That was the comment made to me, when I was asking about helmets as well.)

[phenwick]

Thanks for the helmet insight crazy8.

[Carlos Garza]

I still don't get the sholder roll... it would be a good thing for some one to film it and post the video... anyway, the tips were great!!!

Thanks!!!

[lank13]

First thing I would like to do is say HI to my Fellow Charger Enthusiast. There are some things that you need to do even before you head to the track. Are you ready ??? Print this list it will help. I have been Drag Racing for 33 years.


Items to take with you: Small ICE CHEST, 2 BAGS OF ICE, RAG,
OLD BATH TOWEL, TIRE PRESSURE GAUGE, SHOE POLISH.

1.---Remove your spare tire and jack assembly--leave at home

2.---Remove the spare tire wheel well cover--leave at home

3.---Take a cooler with you that is big enough to hold 2 x 7 pound bags of ice

4.---Put the cooler in the car between the passenger front seat and the back
seat {if you trust people just leave the cooler in your pit area}

5.---Buy Shoe Polish that wipes off with a rag. it is called Dial-In and it is
made by Geddex: part #916

6.---Remove the engine cover (to let heat dissapate better from the
intake)--leave it at home

7.---Take one rag to wipe off the numbers when you are done at the track.
Don't drive home with your numbers on your window as it is a FLAG
waiving to the local Police. Also take an old bath towel with you and lay
it on top of the intake manifold while the car is sitting in the staging
lanes and put your ice on top of the towel. You are trying to keep the
intake as cold as possible. Remove the ice and towel and put them back
into the cooler before you make a pass down the 1/4 mile.

8.---Get to the track early. (try to get there at least 15 minutes before it
officially opens)

9.---Take a tire pressure gauge with you to the track. Adjust the rear tire pressure to 22 to 23 psi. The front tires move up to 42 psi. DO THIS AT THE TRACK ONLY AND THEN RESET BACK TO 32 PSI ON ALL 4 WHEN YOU LEAVE THE TRACK !!!!

10.--Try to let your car's engine cool of about 30 minutes between passes.You are trying to make passes when the water temp is around 150.

11.--Find out if the track broadcast in simulcast over your Charger's radio.
If they do set your radio to that station to listen to announcements and
lane assignments. ASK THIS WHEN YOU PAY TO GET IN....

12.--When you go into the staging lanes to finally make your first pass be
sure to TURN OFF the ESC and your A/C

13.--Have only 1/2 tank of gas (don't go any less as it will slosh to the back
of the tank--any more is just extra weight)

14.--Take all the stuff out of the glove box--center console--door
pockets--again less weight)

15.--Stay out of the water box !!!! (all that does is get water into your
tread) drive around it if you can

16.--Do one GOOD BURN OUT (just to clean off any debris on your rear tires)

17.--Now slowly pull up to the TREE and turn on the top yellow light (STOP)

18.--You now have 6 inches before the next yellow light comes on (try to go in slow and easy---once that light comes on and your opponent has both lights on the tree will come down.

19.--Start to power brake the engine to 1,500 rpm (but not much more)

20.--There will be THREE AMBER LIGHTS that will flash every .500 second
(try to leave after the 2nd one goes out but before the 3rd one comes
on)--some tracks have .500 as perfect others are .000 ASK an Official

21.--You are trying to cut a GOOD light (some tracks have a .500 as perfect others have a .000---you want to be as close to .500 as possible)

22.--Try NOT to RED LIGHT as you loose then.

23.--FLOOR IT until you get to the last set of cones---once you pass that--then left off the gas and slowly apply the brakes--stay in your lane

24.--When coming back down the return road--turn on your DEFROSTER to
HIGH HEAT & HIGH SPEED FAN--also pop the hood and drive no more
than 20 mph (you are helping cool off your engine)

25.--Get your time slip and LOOK at your Reaction Time--your 60 foot time
and then see what you ran and if you WON !!!!)

26.--REPEAT---better known as practice !!!!!!

Have fun and be safe

Regards
Chuck Green

PS---If I can be of nay help just ask in here and I will post up
ive head that putting ice really works but where do I put it do I put int on top of the cai filter, can it be put on a plastic bag, is it really forth it cause im racing on friday a friend for 200dlrs his drivnig a volvo s40 t5 eh thinks he can beat me but I dont really know he doenst know how to race I have cai but I dont think I will win him cause im driving on 22s.

[pdubois64]

ive head that putting ice really works but where do I put it do I put int on top of the cai filter, can it be put on a plastic bag, is it really forth it cause im racing on friday a friend for 200dlrs his drivnig a volvo s40 t5 eh thinks he can beat me but I dont really know he doenst know how to race I have cai but I dont think I will win him cause im driving on 22s.

You put the bag of ice on top of the CAI Tube (plastic or metal) that is in between the filter and the throttle body. Not on the filter.

[CHERRY]

ive head that putting ice really works but where do I put it do I put int on top of the cai filter, can it be put on a plastic bag, is it really forth it cause im racing on friday a friend for 200dlrs his drivnig a volvo s40 t5 eh thinks he can beat me but I dont really know he doenst know how to race I have cai but I dont think I will win him cause im driving on 22s.


--------------------------------------------------------------


I would cover the top of the intake from the throttle body to the back of the intake. Make sure you allow 30 to 45 minutes of COOL DOWN TIME between runs. Also make sure you have the .50 cent fan mod in use.

Chuck

[cantonracer]

Keep in mind that even with a towel if any water is dripping and any track staff see it...you will probably have to sit out that run while you explain it is just ice.

I would also keep every timeslip you have and keep a log off what you did on each run...treat them like gold until you record the runs in a spread sheet.

Once in a spreadsheet, put all your data there...date, time, reaction time, 60', etc. and you will then start learning what your car likes by putting it all together. You might notice paterns that work that you might have never put together.

Then the most important thing IMO...correct your times especially if you have modded the car and want to see if it picked up (minus going to the dyno). Imagine putting a CAI on your car and you run identical as before...but the weather is considerably hotter and humid...well, figure out what your car should have ran to see if it did improve.

Use the following site to correct the timeslip:

http://www.modulardepot.com/density.php

Use a site like http://www.wunderground.com to find you weather conditions.

Please do not speed in the pits...10 mph is more than enough to get around and some tracks will throw you out if you speed around the pits.

Do not get worked up if someone has a similar car and it runs better than yours and "they have less mods"...people love to forget details...it makes them look better I guess.

Also, I did not see this posted, but a great mod to any car at the track is an electric fan switch...it makes for quicker, cooler runs. Water Wetter is a great mod that really works to.

[PlumCrazy1281]

Cherry, this is outstanding info, thanks for sharing!!!

[Deuuuce]

Some other tips.

Push your car in the staging lanes by the A-pillar and the window open. You have to sit and wait in line at Sears Point - the car heats up fast.

Get your car OVER 20mph and into 3rd gear BEFORE approaching the timing lights. The diagnostic 2-3 shift after start-up kills trap speeds by about 3mph.

Play with tire inflation pressures. This is tricky depending upon the surface. Some factors to consider: a rough, sticky surface like warm concrete/asphalt seems to produce some great 0-60 times on the '07s and up. Therefore, stock inflation pressure seems to work. The 0-60 is really launch dependent and therefore traction dependent.

Another theory is the SOFTER sidewall RSAs allow for a better launch than the stiffer F1s. More deformity, more tread on the pavement, more traction.

The trend SEEMS to be the more slippery the launch pad, the lower your tire psi should be. I've read as low as 22psi.

Do NOT sit and spin the tires to warm them up. Street tires get slippery when excessively hot. Best best is a quick spin to clean them off.

Tonight I'm going to experiment with VHT on the F1s to see if it works.

[dennyt4]

Cherry...

When do you start to power brake to 1500? The couple of times I've gone to the track, I do a really quick burnout and try to get to stage before the other guy so I can make sure I get set and as soon as I'm staged I power brake, but I have seen a few threads mention that if you start power braking too early that HAL may interfere.

Should I wait until the other guy stages before I start my braking? Will it make a difference?

Just trying to think things through before the next time I go!

Thanks!

[CHERRY]

Cherry...

When do you start to power brake to 1500? The couple of times I've gone to the track, I do a really quick burnout and try to get to stage before the other guy so I can make sure I get set and as soon as I'm staged I power brake, but I have seen a few threads mention that if you start power braking too early that HAL may interfere.

Should I wait until the other guy stages before I start my braking? Will it make a difference?

Just trying to think things through before the next time I go!

Thanks!

Hay DENNY,

The BEST way to get set is honestly get to the line first. That way you can get the pre-stage and staged light on and then get the rpm's to 1,500. If you can not get it first then you can power brake at the pre-stage light and slowly brake torque the can into the stage beam. You always want to stage as shallow as possible that way you get a better MPH. If you turn off the top bulb or the pre-stage light and you just have the stage light on then the car will get a quicker ET.

Hope that helps.

Chuck

[dennyt4]

Hay DENNY,

The BEST way to get set is honestly get to the line first. That way you can get the pre-stage and staged light on and then get the rpm's to 1,500. If you can not get it first then you can power brake at the pre-stage light and slowly brake torque the can into the stage beam. You always want to stage as shallow as possible that way you get a better MPH. If you turn off the top bulb or the pre-stage light and you just have the stage light on then the car will get a quicker ET.

Hope that helps.

Chuck

Thanks Chuck...so basically I am doing OK with getting there first and power braking, and I'm not losing anything by power braking too long waiting for the other guy? Nothing to be gained by power braking at the latest possible time?

THANKS!!


Also...in reference to DEUUCE's post above mine...

"Get your car OVER 20mph and into 3rd gear BEFORE approaching the timing lights. The diagnostic 2-3 shift after start-up kills trap speeds by about 3mph."

I have never heard of this. Any other info on this?

[X E Ryder]

Nice posting and great info too.

[Bee8]

Thanks guys for all that info. You should have done this long ago, that's what makes this a great site !!!!

[Deuuuce]

I'm going to start another thread regarding my recent experience but I'll say this:

Launch techniques for the R/T are probably different for the SRT.

I believe the 20" F1s respond differently than the RSAs and 18"s to tire pressure differences:" After my last 5 runs, and seeing all the low 0-60 times from the '07s, I believe the F1s are better off at inflation pressures above 28psi.

[dennyt4]

I'm going to start another thread regarding my recent experience but I'll say this:

Launch techniques for the R/T are probably different for the SRT.

The 20" F1s respond differently than the RSAs and 18"s to tire pressure differences:" After my last 5 runs, and seeing all the low 0-60 times from the '07s, I believe the F1s are better off at inflation pressures above 28psi.


Deuuuce,

I've run twice at the track with this car and both times I ran different tire pressures...

1st time out I was afraid of breaking something so I left the pressure at 28psi. All 3 runs that night were 2.00x for my 60' - consistant, but couldn't do any better.

2nd time out I lowered to 23psi and was consistant again, but at 1.94 for the 60'.

Not sure if that helps, but I know when I go again, I will be lowering to 23psi again.


**Could you explain a little more about your post above about the diagnostic 2-3 shift? Maybe that is why I am consistantly lower in my MPH than what I see here, even though my ET's are good?

[Deuuuce]

Deuuuce,

I've run twice at the track with this car and both times I ran different tire pressures...

1st time out I was afraid of breaking something so I left the pressure at 28psi. All 3 runs that night were 2.00x for my 60' - consistant, but couldn't do any better.

2nd time out I lowered to 23psi and was consistant again, but at 1.94 for the 60'.

Not sure if that helps, but I know when I go again, I will be lowering to 23psi again.


**Could you explain a little more about your post above about the diagnostic 2-3 shift? Maybe that is why I am consistantly lower in my MPH than what I see here, even though my ET's are good?

That is a good example of low psi. What were your launch rpms?

The SRT Chat session talked about that shift. Try this - make sure the car is sufficiently warm. Start it, do NOT exceed 20mph, then go WOT. Check out the 2-3 shift at around 80mph. It's horrible.

[dennyt4]

That is a good example of low psi. What were your launch rpms?

The SRT Chat session talked about that shift. Try this - make sure the car is sufficiently warm. Start it, do NOT exceed 20mph, then go WOT. Check out the 2-3 shift at around 80mph. It's horrible.

Launching at 1500-1600 rpm. I am dying to try various RPM's and tire pressures, but the local track is so busy that I have never gotten more than 3 runs in a night - really sucks.

I'll give it a shot and see what happens. So how do you get into 3rd at more than 20mph at the track?

Thanks!

[Deuuuce]

Launching at 1500-1600 rpm. I am dying to try various RPM's and tire pressures, but the local track is so busy that I have never gotten more than 3 runs in a night - really sucks.

I'll give it a shot and see what happens. So how do you get into 3rd at more than 20mph at the track?

Thanks!

At that rpm my car overpowers the traction at Sears Point.

Also getting up to 3rd at more than 20mph from the staging lanes to the light is next to impossible due to distance. At Union Grove in IL, it's a non-issue on a slower night.

[Carlos Garza]

10.--Try to let your car's engine cool of about 30 minutes between passes.You are trying to make passes when the water temp is around 150.

Cherry,

Are you trying to stand at the lights after your burnout with the water temp at 150? I usually make sure that my car is around 135 degrees before I start my car engine and get to the burnout box... that will ensure me I get to the lights after I do my burnout between 150 and 160...

[CHERRY]

Cherry,

Are you trying to stand at the lights after your burnout with the water temp at 150? I usually make sure that my car is around 135 degrees before I start my car engine and get to the burnout box... that will ensure me I get to the lights after I do my burnout between 150 and 160...

No Carlos, what you need to do is have the .25 cent mod in, hood open, ice on the intake and keep checking every 10 minutes the engine oil temp. You do this by turning the key to on and checking the instrument gauges.

I try to get the engine down to 120 then I pull the ice off the intake, close the hood and pull into the staging lanes. I try to keep the engine temp to 130-135 as I pull out of the front of the staging lanes. That way once I do my burnout and get staged the engine is at 145-150.

If you need a better explanation, just ask.

Regards
Chuck

[brady]

Damn, how much better would your time get if you cool it down? I generally do my runs back to back to back. Fired off 22 runs last time at the track (2 hours) all in the 13.7's - 13.8's. Heat didn't seem to bother it that much.?.?

[Deuuuce]

Damn, how much better would your time get if you cool it down? I generally do my runs back to back to back. Fired off 22 runs last time at the track (2 hours) all in the 13.7's - 13.8's. Heat didn't seem to bother it that much.?.?

Excellent times for an R/T. Heat probably doesn't affect them as much like an SRT.

[CHERRY]

Damn, how much better would your time get if you cool it down? I generally do my runs back to back to back. Fired off 22 runs last time at the track (2 hours) all in the 13.7's - 13.8's. Heat didn't seem to bother it that much.?.?

BRADY;

I can attest that if you get your Charger cooled off to 125 to 135 in the pits and then bring it to the staging lanes, you will see a drop in the ETs. I have made many passes down the 1/4 mile in CHERRY and when I am running in a Bracket Race and she does NOT get the necessary cool down time her ETs will slow down even with the night air getting better in DA.

My Charger will slow down anywhere from .18 to .30 in the 1/4 as the water temp goes up. I try very hard to have the water temp around 145-150 at the starting line. Make sure that you check the tire pressures on the rear tires between each round as they will change as much as 2 pounds. Yes, 2 pounds of air can make a difference in ET.

Let me give you a prime example, the last time I raced Cherry in a Bracket Race, {I won} my times went exactly like this:

137 oil temp at launch
rear tires---23 psi
front tires--32 psi
1/2 tank of gas
in drive
nothing in the trunk
2:35 pm
82 degrees outside

-.096
2.056
5.982
9.187
76.51
11.903
99.36

----------------------------------
rear tire press---32 psi
front tire press--32 psi
197 oil temp
in drive
1/3 tank of fuel
(drove 30 mile round trip from the track)
4:23 pm
84 degrees outside

.2330
2.150
6.169
9.412
75.60
12.163
14.534
97.23

----------------------------

rear tire press----23 psi
front tire press---32 psi
150 degrees oil temp
5:06 pm

-.023
2.075
5.970
9.162
76.52
76.52
11.867
14.192
99.27

-----------------------

159 oil temp start
167 oil temp crossing the finish line
5:36 pm

.048
2.040
5.922
9.113
76.12
11.819
14.154
98.26

-------------------------

71 degrees outside
142 oil temp
10:19 pm

-.0167........(the other car red lighted first)
2.089
5.994
9.190
76.51
11.901
14.235
98.48
----14.25 dial in---- (I won due to their red light)

-----------------------

I then moved the dial in to 14.15 so NOT to break out
The air is getting better with DA
I lifted at 1250 foot
10:41 pm

.0149
2.0621
5.938
9.117
76.42
11.809
14.318
87.85

----------------------

still running on the 14.15 dial in
10:56 pm---(only 15 minutes of cool down time)

-.0026----(other person red lighted)
2.068
5.955
9.143
76.65
11.846
14.173
98.70

---------------------

14.15 dial in still
11:12 pm------(16 minutes of cool down time)

.0392
2.073
5.979
9.172
76.51
11.878
14.208-----Cherry could not run her dial in as the motor was warm
98.86

I still won the event as my opponent broke out
and he cut a .0520 light

I hope this helps
Chuck

[brady]

Interesting...

Chuck, do you run a lighter oil? I know about the ice on the intake but are there any other quick cool down tricks? It's a 2 hour drive to the track for me so I want to get as much out of it as I can.

I greatly appreciate your input.

[X E Ryder]

Hey folks,

Wondering if anyone has had trouble with the tire spinning on the rim, or if you screwed them down. Lowering pressures down to the low 20's is cause for concern if your car launches hard.

Granted my 10 second car was way faster, but in the interest of safety and good 60 foots, what ET do you consider low enough to screw down the beads of a street driven tubeless rear?

[CHERRY]

Hey folks,

Wondering if anyone has had trouble with the tire spinning on the rim, or if you screwed them down. Lowering pressures down to the low 20's is cause for concern if your car launches hard.

Granted my 10 second car was way faster, but in the interest of safety and good 60 foots, what ET do you consider low enough to screw down the beads of a street driven tubeless rear?

I would not worry at 23 psi in the rear, but if you are running DOT Drag Radials and getting to the mid teens or lower I would. Most of the quick 5.7 Chargers IE InferAl is running MT Drag Radials and has tire press around 18 psi.

Chuck

[brady]

Thanks for the call and the info Chuck!

[Riddlefox]

Chuck, do you run a lighter oil? I know about the ice on the intake but are there any other quick cool down tricks? It's a 2 hour drive to the track for me so I want to get as much out of it as I can.

One trick I've seen is to turn the car off, but leave the key in and the A/C on. This makes the radiator fans turn on and cool the coolant/engine. Once you get cool air from there, run the engine for 30 seconds to a minute to cycle the coolant, and repeat as necessary. I don't know if this works on Chargers, but it definitely helps cool down my Subie.

Be careful with ice; you don't want to drip water and make it dangerous for motorcycles.

[PaCharger]

I would not worry at 23 psi in the rear, but if you are running DOT Drag Radials and getting to the med teens or lower I would. Most of the quick 5.7 Chargers IE InferAl is running MT Drag Radials and has tire press around 18 psi.

Chuck

MY D/R's have had at least 150 launches with PSI at 20 and 22. I usually start at 22, then after the first wheel spin, determine which tire DIDN'T spin, either by the starter telling me (some guys I've gotten to know), or by rubber on the fender. Then I drop 2psi in the spinning tire to try to get both to break free. More often than not it is my passenger side I drop...seems to work. Haven't had or seen any issues with the group of guys running the same tire or similar D/R's running this same PSI.

One trick I've seen is to turn the car off, but leave the key in and the A/C on. This makes the radiator fans turn on and cool the coolant/engine. Once you get cool air from there, run the engine for 30 seconds to a minute to cycle the coolant, and repeat as necessary. I don't know if this works on Chargers, but it definitely helps cool down my Subie.

Be careful with ice; you don't want to drip water and make it dangerous for motorcycles.

We can use little wire jumper with spade connectors on our "under the hood" fuse box. This puts all the fans on. You are absolutely correct, run these for 5-10 mins and occasionally starting the car to circulate coolant is a sure fire way to get water temps where you want them for the next run. I leave the fans running from the time I get to the track till I take the Drag Radials off when I'm ready to leave.

[ttruckinon]

[QUOTE=PaCharger;989243]MY D/R's have had at least 150 launches with PSI at 20 and 22. I usually start at 22, then after the first wheel spin, determine which tire DIDN'T spin, either by the starter telling me (some guys I've gotten to know), or by rubber on the fender. Then I drop 2psi in the spinning tire to try to get both to break free. More often than not it is my passenger side I drop...seems to work. Haven't had or seen any issues with the group of guys running the same tire or similar D/R's running this same PSI.

A note on tire gauges. A number of us were doing a track day on bikes and tire pressure is very important. We started checking our gauges by comparing them on the same tire and found one or two of them were way off. All of them were dial type gauges. I use a digital gauge and have found it to be more consistant than the dial type. In any case check your gauge for accuracy.

[Deuuuce]

Fold in your mirrors too....

[JRSRT8]

Hey cherry, have you posted the video of the shoulder roll yet? Im really curious about it, thanks

[CHERRY]

Hey cherry, have you posted the video of the shoulder roll yet? Im really curious about it, thanks

I have not, as my video camera is broken. I am hoping to get a new one for X-Mas. :cool: Then I will post up....

Chuck

[Ladybreeanna]

Cherry thanks for all the good info :) I am wanting to learn how to do this as well! maybe my mid life crisis! I am going to ask around to see where in my area & go watch first!

[CHERRY]

Cherry thanks for all the good info :) I am wanting to learn how to do this as well! maybe my mid life crisis! I am going to ask around to see where in my area & go watch first!

Go to this web page: Click on USA and then your State.

www.chasinracin.com

Have fun and stay safe

Chuck

[Ladybreeanna]

Thank you :) I am going to go check out Orlando speedway after the holidays!

[CHERRY]

Just wanted to let you folks know that I added some more information to the first thread in this post.

Chuck

[desertcharger]

Thanks again for all your hard work and helpfullness-
I'm hoping to make a debut at the track soon! I feel better about going after mulling over this thread for months!:smile:

[CHERRY]

Thanks again for all your hard work and helpfullness-
I'm hoping to make a debut at the track soon! I feel better about going after mulling over this thread for months!:smile:

All I ask in return is that you start a thread on how you did at the track. Post up all your time trials and please put them in order so I can read them and make sure to include the time of day and what track you raced at.

You are welcome
Chuck

[desertcharger]

All I ask in return is that you start a thread on how you did at the track. Post up all your time trials and please put them in order so I can read them and make sure to include the time of day and what track you raced at.

You are welcome
Chuck

I'm supposed to go tomorrow night!!!!!!!!!! Finally!:grin:

[CHERRY]

I'm supposed to go tomorrow night!!!!!!!!!! Finally!:grin:

I will be waiting to see your results......

Good Luck and Stay Safe

Chuck

[Darrin1966]

Hi Guys. I am new to this forum. Just bought the new 2008 Super Bee. Wanted to take it to the track and run a couple 1/4s with it.. I have been able to beat the 0-60 time that the magazine has said it would do. 0-60 5.3 sec. Car is totally stock, but I am working on that. Well maybe we could meet up someday and you guys can really show me how to race

[CRF450RR]

Hi Guys. I am new to this forum. Just bought the new 2008 Super Bee. Wanted to take it to the track and run a couple 1/4s with it.. I have been able to beat the 0-60 time that the magazine has said it would do. 0-60 5.3 sec. Car is totally stock, but I am working on that. Well maybe we could meet up someday and you guys can really show me how to race

What city?

[PaCharger]

little tip here guys....when you get both stage lights lit...don't load the toque converter up until the other lane gets theirs lit too. Loading the T/c too early will pull timing quickly and you'll fall off on the launch.

Rather, breakfoot the lights to be prepared, then, as both parties get fully staged, apply throttle to 1500-2200 depending on your tires and track conditions.

Good luck.

[felytle]

I have a question. i have an awd and cant burn the tires to get them sticky or free of debrie (how ever u want to look at it). and tips for the awd's.

from what i have done at red lights. even with esp off with the dash button i still get a bog even at 1.5k. is there a diffrence in rt awd's and rt's in that aspect.

[Deuuuce]

I have a question. i have an awd and cant burn the tires to get them sticky or free of debrie (how ever u want to look at it). and tips for the awd's.

from what i have done at red lights. even with esp off with the dash button i still get a bog even at 1.5k. is there a diffrence in rt awd's and rt's in that aspect.

Actually, if your torque converter doesn't allow for a higher brake-torque and you're bogging, you DON'T want to clean your tires - you want to get some slippage so you can bring your rpms up, make more power and not bog. You could still cut a sub-2.0 60ft.

A 1.8 60ft isn't in your cards with stock power levels and gearing and torque converter, unfortunately. That is Jeep SRT-8 territory.

[Deuuuce]

I found the "shoulder roll" technique to be bogus for me - I can jerk them forward like I can plant my foot to the floor.

The real technique, besides managing air pressure, is to feather the throttle for the initial weight transfer, then apply as much throttle as possible before breaking loose.

It's going to differ at every track and even each lane.

I also found on my worn 255 F1s, 38psi got me 2.0 60fts were sub-30psi was always too slippery. Probably has to do with tire construction (sidewall stiffness, etc).

[Intrepidman]

I've skimmed through this post and haven't noticed this trick mentioned. For just the tiny bit of extra help you can also remove your windshield wipers (arms and all) and leave them trackside with a friend...don't leave them home, you'll want them for the drive back if it starts to rain.
I do it on my Intrepid, takes literally 30 seconds saves 3 lbs and usually at the end of the track they are flopping off the windshield so you know they are bad for aerodynamics.

[Part Deux]

I've skimmed through this post and haven't noticed this trick mentioned. For just the tiny bit of extra help you can also remove your windshield wipers (arms and all) and leave them trackside with a friend...don't leave them home, you'll want them for the drive back if it starts to rain.
I do it on my Intrepid, takes literally 30 seconds saves 3 lbs and usually at the end of the track they are flopping off the windshield so you know they are bad for aerodynamics.

Them some heavy a$$ wipers. Have you ever actually weighed them? I'd be surprised if exceeded a few ounces! 100lbs = .1s. THREE POUNDS = .003s

[Daytona606]

Cherry / or anyone else out there - first of all, please forgive this total noob question -
Everything in your "how to drag race..." post makes complete sense, my only question is why do you turn off the ESC? Doesn't ESC prevent the tires from breaking loose? I thought that you would loose time off the line if the tires spin.

[desertcharger]

Cherry / or anyone else out there - first of all, please forgive this total noob question -
Everything in your "how to drag race..." post makes complete sense, my only question is why do you turn off the ESC? Doesn't ESC prevent the tires from breaking loose? I thought that you would loose time off the line if the tires spin.

Its ESP-
and you're right except that ESP stops wheel spin by applying the brakes, upshifting, etc - things you really don't want when trying to launch fast!:cool:

[Daytona606]

Right on thanks - that makes sense. I knew what esP :) did i just didn't know how it did it.

[desertcharger]

Right on thanks - that makes sense. I knew what esP :) did i just didn't know how it did it.

No sweat! That's why we're all here! :grin:

[Deuuuce]

Cherry / or anyone else out there - first of all, please forgive this total noob question -
Everything in your "how to drag race..." post makes complete sense, my only question is why do you turn off the ESC? Doesn't ESC prevent the tires from breaking loose? I thought that you would loose time off the line if the tires spin.

You DO want some spin so the engine comes up into it's powerband faster than off idle. The crux of the issue is managing the spin while managing available traction.

ESC could work great, but we don't have "launch control". It also activates the rear brakes, which is undesirable for a fast launch.

[Intrepidman]

Them some heavy a$$ wipers. Have you ever actually weighed them? I'd be surprised if exceeded a few ounces! 100lbs = .1s. THREE POUNDS = .003s


Ok 2lbs then....but don't just take off the wipers themselves!!! That will put some nasty scratchs in your windshield from the bouncing around. (worse if you accidentally bump the on switch) Take the whole arm off, if the charger is anything like the intrepid its easy, and they are big clumbsy parts that you can do without in a race if you are looking for "every little bit"

[15chargersrt8]

thanks for the tips

[metgo]

Just thought some of you might find this helpful

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=114979

[Deuuuce]

Some tips:
1. Hold your gear - do not wait for the tranny to make a sluggish downshift.

2. Know your gearing - related to #1. 70mph in 3rd is a dead spot. 2nd has one at about 35-40mph.

3. ESP partially off is fine, especially if something goes wrong (traction). Fully off isn't really needed. Fully On will slow you down.

4. Do NOT shift yourself. Let the tranny do it.

At the track I've picked up a few things about our cars:

1. Weight transfer to the rear is essential - I race with 1/3 to 1/2 tank of gas.

2. Do an initial throttle tip-in, feel the rear squat a bit (see #3), and go WOT as you roll forward. I cut some consistent 1.9 60fts this way.

3. For the stiffer suspension Charger, I found 35-36psi OR MORE is better for the F1s. Makes for a larger contact patch rather than sitting on the sidewalls due to under-inflation.

4. Keep your engine temps BELOW 190 degrees. Push your car, blow the heat on high fan speed, whatever it takes.

5. I have a suspicion the 2-3 diagnostic shift after start-up still
exists. IF you can, go OVER 20mph and let the car shift from 2-3
BEFORE staging at the lights. This can kill your trap speed by 3mph.

6. Try pulling fuse #11 and then put it back in. This supposedly makes for crisper response, more power.

7. Clean off your tires - smoke'em, but don't sit there. Too hot and they will be slippery. You just want to see some smoke in your rear view mirror.

8. Per #2 & #3, weight reduction isn't that significant and can be detrimental. However, icing the manifold and folding your sideview mirrors can make the difference between a 13.000 and a 12.999......

Finally - get the Diablo tuner!

Good luck, have fun, win some!

[metgo]

^^^ quick question about #5, how do you get the car to shift from 2nd to 3rd before you get to the staging lanes and how does that give you 3 MPH?

Also, I disagree with #8. Weight reduction is huge if you can hook. My race weight is close to 200 lbs less than my daily driver weight. 200 lbs equals at least 2 tenths, that is better than the 1 hundredth you'll gain by folding in the mirrors. Reducing weight also has an added bonus, it reduces the stress on your drivetrain when you launch.

[Deuuuce]

^^^ quick question about #5, how do you get the car to shift from 2nd to 3rd before you get to the staging lanes and how does that give you 3 MPH?

Also, I disagree with #8. Weight reduction is huge if you can hook. My race weight is close to 200 lbs less than my daily driver weight. 200 lbs equals at least 2 tenths, that is better than the 1 hundredth you'll gain by folding in the mirrors. Reducing weight also has an added bonus, it reduces the stress on your drivetrain when you launch.

You have to go over 20mph so that the 2-3 shift occurs above that speed. Very difficult to achieve at a short pits-to-staging-lanes area like Sears Point. At Union Grove, WI, no problem. Ever wonder why you see 103-106mph trap speeds from SRT-8s? That's why.

Regarding #8 "if you can hook" is the key. On stiff sidewall street tires, its more difficult. The realistic (keeping full interior) weight reduction on an LX is absolutely minimal. If you don't get the weight transfer on the street tires (not DRs), it's not going to hook. Also, the minimal weight reduction we can do will also have a minimal reduction in driveline stress.

[metgo]

On street tires I can agree with you to a certain extent about the weight thing, but if you are on DRs weight reduction is a big plus.

[Deuuuce]

On street tires I can agree with you to a certain extent about the weight thing, but if you are on DRs weight reduction is a big plus.

Totally agree. Is the half-shaft issue only with one year or is it hit-or-miss?

[metgo]

Totally agree. Is the half-shaft issue only with one year or is it hit-or-miss?

I think all of the half shafts that have been broken, were broken in slip-grip situation. As long as you learn to left off when the tires are spinning, you will be fine. And a lot of the LXs that have broken them are the 450+ cars. This is another good reason to take weight out of the car when you race. Heavy cars and a lot of hp don't go well together. The more weight you have in the car, the more likely you are to brake something.

[CHERRY]

I have been asked a couple of times how important Density Altitude plays in your times.
Here are a couple of web pages that should help you out.

http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-altitude-calculator.php

&

http://www.greatlakesdragaway.com/correctionfactors.html

& if you want to know what the DA is at your track look at this:

http://cart.victory1performance.com/product.sc?categoryId=7&productId=22


Stay Safe
Chuck