Synthetic Oil [Archive] - Dodge Charger Forums

Paradog

11-24-2005, 01:16 PM

I've come to the first oil change and have been wondering what the views are on using synthetic oils. I live in NJ, not sure if that might effect the use of these oils? ANy insight would be great! Recommendations od brands also!

mnunes

11-24-2005, 01:24 PM

Definitely synthetic. My vote is for Mobil1. Make sure whatever you get it's 5W-20. Anything else could cause MDS to not function.

Officer120

11-24-2005, 01:32 PM

I have used Mobil 1 oil in all my car since my IROC. I was hooked when me and the mechanic opened up the oil pan with over 100,000 hard miles on the car to see no build up and no debris in the pan, just a light beige haze. Ever since then that's all I have used.

I did ask the dealer and was advised by the Salesman not to use synthetic oil in the multi-displacement engine until there is at least 10,000 miles on the vehicle. I was shocked but I haven't had it in for service as of yet and will confer with the Service department at that time. If there is anyone who knows differently speak now!!

Dan

2006 GoManGo Daytona # 0675
West Paterson, NJ
Current Mods: Auto headlamps and K&N Air Charger CAI

Paradog

11-24-2005, 02:07 PM

Mobil 1...ok
I have the V6 so the MDS isn't an issue

Hey Officer120... I'm down in Metuchen (GSP exit130)...nice to see other Jerseyians on the forum!

boots

11-24-2005, 03:18 PM

Paradog,
Hey their are a few of us on this forum from NJ.

I use Castrol Syntec in my 2004 Ram Hemi and also in my 39 Chevy streetrod. When my first oil change comes due I will change the Charger over to Syntec also.

If you have some tech. questions try looking up mobil's or Castrol's web-sites. You may find the information your looking for.

charger Bill

11-24-2005, 10:04 PM

Paradog: I just switched my SXT over to Royal Purple synthetic oil at my last oil change, that was at 7000 miles. Have used synthetics in my last few cars and have very good luck. Royal Purple is a bit pricey but is listed as one of the best on the market. It can also be hard to locate in certain areas, though any of the name brands would be better than stright petroleum oil. :happy:

DAYTONA_R/T

11-24-2005, 10:10 PM

I got Castrol Syntec at my last oil change because they did not have mobil one in 5w-20 at the time... I will either go to mobil one or royal purple at my next oil change, however I will probably do it myself due to the fact I am not going to pay $70 for an oil change....

I can buy the oil needed for about $30 plus the cost of the filter...

most shops charge $7-8 a quart for Synthetic oil... plus the filter and labor... I can rent a lift at a DIY shop for $15 hour and still be cheaper then paying someone to do it...

If I go back to running Dino oil though... I can get it done cheaper then I can do it myself by a local repair shop owned by an aquantance from the truck club I was part of.

GLHS837

11-24-2005, 10:11 PM

I did ask the dealer and was advised by the Salesman not to use synthetic oil in the multi-displacement engine until there is at least 10,000 miles on the vehicle. I was shocked but I haven't had it in for service as of yet and will confer with the Service department at that time. If there is anyone who knows differently speak now!!

Salesguy + technical info = good idea to get second opinion. You can go for it at the first change.

GLHS837

11-24-2005, 10:12 PM

BTW, all synthetic here, Mobil 1, but any full syn works. Wal-Mart = 4.88 a qt, or 19ish for a 5 qt jug.

epoch

11-24-2005, 10:14 PM

I can rent a lift at a DIY shop for $15 hour and still be cheaper then paying someone to do it...

You can't just use a creeper? Why do you need a lift? Is it just your preference?

DAYTONA_R/T

11-24-2005, 10:20 PM

ok... since this is the first time I have ever run synthetic oil... and it fits this thread....

I dont give a crap about the fact they recommend changing oil every 3000 miles, because of the fact that is foolish thing to do, and they recommend it only as a money maker for the dealers... every 5-6K miles and you are fine with DINO oil...

However since alot of people on here have said that for warrenty reasons that dodge is VERY finky with the oil change schedule if you have an issue that is engine related... will dodge allow extended oil changes and not gripe when a warrenty issues arises?

If not... then why pay the extra for full SYN oil? the only reason I went SYN at the last change is because I was offered a good one time deal by the guy from the truck club... but if Dodge requires it for warrenty issues to be changed every 300 no matter what oil you use... then I will go back to DINO

As long as you are not doing oil changes every 10,000+ miles on Dino oil... then engine will not last any longer doing oil changes at 3000 miles on Synthetic then it would doing them on DINO oil... so the cost of SYN over DINO is a waste IMHO.

DAYTONA_R/T

11-24-2005, 10:24 PM

You can't just use a creeper? Why do you need a lift? Is it just your preference?

Just for ease... I go to the DIY shop for alot of the mods I did on my last truck... it is easier and faster to do things standing under the vehicle then crawling under it...

I stopped going to the shop with my truck for certain things when I did the lift kit, because then I had lots of room to move under it... :D (still easier if you have access to a lift... but depended on what it is...)

I own a 3 1/2 ton floor jack, 4 6-ton jack stands and a creeper... and have enough tools to do almost anything I need to in the garage... but sometimes it is nice to work under the vehicle standing up...

RobAGD

11-25-2005, 12:50 AM

Dealing with that damn belly pan is reason enough to use a lift :)

As to Synth of Dino oils there are a great many reason to use Synth over Dino. The temp and sear strengths are a big one.

Oil changes are cheap, I dont get why every one want to make them go 6k-10k miles ? Oil is one of the cheapest things you can do for your car to keep it happy. Why cheap out on it ?

As to needing 10k on an MDS engin thats bunk. You can go Synth at your first change. I switched at 1500 to get production crap out of the system.

You bought a 30k+ car dont cheap out on something as cheap as oil.

-Robert

BurntOrange

11-25-2005, 10:03 AM

As to Synth of Dino oils there are a great many reason to use Synth over Dino. The temp and sear strengths are a big one.

Oil changes are cheap, I dont get why every one want to make them go 6k-10k miles ? Oil is one of the cheapest things you can do for your car to keep it happy. Why cheap out on it ?

As to needing 10k on an MDS engin thats bunk. You can go Synth at your first change. I switched at 1500 to get production crap out of the system.

You bought a 30k+ car dont cheap out on something as cheap as oil.

-Robert

I agree I changed to Mobil1 at 1200 miles I figure its a $37,000 car, High performance, Runs on the hot side, has a lot of advanced mech. parts, and its a collector. Crap Gonna try to make mine live forever.

HIGH_HEMI

11-25-2005, 10:06 AM

I agree I changed to Mobil1 at 1200 miles I figure its a $37,000 car, High performance, Runs on the hot side, has a lot of advanced mech. parts, and its a collector. Crap Gonna try to make mine live forever.

And we will expect to see you standing proudly beside her for a Dodge commercial boasting proudly: "Dodge and Mobil1...350,000 miles and still kicking butt at the track!"

Paradog

11-25-2005, 07:58 PM

Just wanted to say Thank You to all those who replied. Got the Mobil 1 put in today.

lg68jcu

11-28-2005, 12:34 PM

Curious.. How many quarts is the oil pan? I havnt gotten my charger yet?

kc2kth

12-01-2005, 10:46 AM

Curious.. How many quarts is the oil pan? I havnt gotten my charger yet?

Looks like seven based on the paperwork from my change this am.

maneval69

12-01-2005, 11:00 AM

Curious.. How many quarts is the oil pan? I havnt gotten my charger yet?

The manual says 7 quarts, but 6.5 puts it on the full mark.

LH35HO

12-05-2005, 07:39 PM

Glad to hear you went with the Mobile1.Although your car will run on dyno oil synthetic oil is not breaking the bank and is far superior. The 3.5 is generaly a solid running motor but it never hurts to treat her nice.

RobertKing1

12-05-2005, 09:02 PM

I am going to change over to synthetic oil on the next change. I run my other vehicle with it and they seem to like it. :santa:

robvia

12-08-2005, 10:55 AM

I only have 900 miles on my SXT. Friend is an Amsoil dealer, so I'll go with that.

The reason you need to lift the car, is because the oil filter is in front of the oil pan, and it's very hard to reach. Try it, look up under your Charger for the filter and you won't see it. There is a plastic splash guard held on by 4 bolts you have to remove first. Then you'll see the oil filter, which doesn't have much room to grab. There's maybe a 1 inch gap between the filter and the oil pan. I tried gettng my filter off but couldn't do it. Even tried using an oil wrench and it wouldn't budge. If you look at most oil filters, you'll see dimples at the bottom of them. I think the dealer uses a cup tool that fits them perfectly, so they can just twist it off. At the bottom of the filter, it says "Factory Installed" in tiny white letters.

Anyone have a link to the oil filter removal tool?

Puff Chippy

12-08-2005, 11:13 AM

You can get the cup style wrench at any auto parts store - paid about $4 for mine at Autozone but I forget which size it is. The strap kind won't work. If you have ramps you can use a 10mm socket on an electric screwdriver to remove the splash guard, then the cup wrench on a 3/8's ratchet to remove the oil filter. Start to finish for me (once it was on ramps) was about 5 minutes.

robvia

12-08-2005, 11:16 AM

Right, I just went to the Snap On Tools web site and saw there are many different sizes.
What I think I'll do, is buy the new filter from the dealer (part is in the manual), then go to the auto parts store and find the cup tool.

2Charge

12-08-2005, 04:59 PM

Is there any reason to use other than the recommended 10w-30 or 5w-30 for the V6 when switching to synthetic? I was going to stick with 10w-30 in my car, since it never gets below 0 degrees in Richmond, but the dealer put 5w-30 in at my free oil change. I'll be putting synthetic in next, and am tossing around which weight to go with.

robvia

12-11-2005, 01:38 PM

I went to Advanced Auto parts and found the wrench.
It's 93mm with 15 flutes. I've made a page with pictures. Check it out here.

http://www.nogodforme.com/DodgeChargerFilter.htm

To answer the question up above, I asked my Amsoil friend which oil should be used. He recommended 0W-30. It's the most expensive because it's the hardest to produce, but the best.

Stercrazy

12-11-2005, 01:55 PM

I have a question...if you switch to synthetic is it true you should not go back to regular oil?

andylant

12-12-2005, 12:57 PM

I have a question...if you switch to synthetic is it true you should not go back to regular oil?

I wouldn't recommend going back to dino oil...

808Chargerfan

12-12-2005, 03:36 PM

I know that you have to use Synthetic on the 2.7 Magnums, or else sludge biulds up, then Poof! Bye Bye engine!

John

Dutch

12-12-2005, 06:13 PM

I know that you have to use Synthetic on the 2.7 Magnums, or else sludge biulds up, then Poof! Bye Bye engine!

John
This is 100% wrong. The build-up of sludge is related more to driving habits than any other factor.

808Chargerfan

12-12-2005, 06:44 PM

This is 100% wrong. The build-up of sludge is related more to driving habits than any other factor.

Really? I thought that IN the 2.7 magnums, if you do not use a free-flowing viscosity oil, like 0w-30 or 5w-30, the oil will build up sludge in the engine. Maybe I am wrong, maybe that is also the reason why they dont offer the Charger to the public with the 2.7.

John

arfur

12-12-2005, 09:11 PM

This is 100% wrong. The build-up of sludge is related more to driving habits than any other factor.

I would tend to agree. I couldn't think of a single thing in an engine today that would cause sludge purely on the basis of a mineral oil.

Stop/start driving is prolly gonna do that whatever the oil! :asleep:

arfur

12-12-2005, 09:13 PM

Salesguy + technical info = good idea to get second opinion. You can go for it at the first change.

Agreed :happy:

hopster

12-13-2005, 12:47 AM

Can anyone shed any light on the statement "you can't use synthetic oil because the oil pressure sensor light will come on because of the viscosity difference between synthetic and real oil". Fact or urban legend ??? (This is what my service writer told me, I swear !!!)..... :confused:

RobAGD

12-13-2005, 12:58 AM

Thats a steaming pile of crap ! The SR is a complete and utter idiot. Never go back or make sure he looses his job. Thats just flat out retarded.

5w20 is 5w20 as far as viscosity goes. Synth has better heat and shear strengths and wear better.

I woudl find that guys boss and have a littletalk.

-Robert

Can anyone shed any light on the statement "you can't use synthetic oil because the oil pressure sensor light will come on because of the viscosity difference between synthetic and real oil". Fact or urban legend ??? (This is what my service writer told me, I swear !!!)..... :confused: